ABSTRACT
Abstract Damage resulting from the incidence of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin is common nowadays, with UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-400 nm) radiation responsible for photoaging, sunburn and carcinogenesis. For this reason, sunscreens represent products of growing interest to prevent such damage. However, there are few organic filters marketed worldwide with photostability and effectiveness at wavelengths greater than 340 nm (long UVA), which justifies the exploration for new compounds. In this work, we determined the photostability and sun protection factor (SPF) of three 2-(2'-hydroxyphenyl)benzoxazole derivative dyes in order to develop new organic UV filters. UV-vis spectrophotometry has high level of reproducibility when compared with in vivo human clinical methods. Solubility determinations were performed in different solvents. The compounds absorbed UVA and UVB radiation, with maximum absorption wavelengths ranging from 336 to 374 nm. Photostability was evaluated using a solar simulator (3 J.m2.s-1 UVA radiation) for a maximum of 3 h. The 2-(amino-2'-hydroxyphenyl) benzoxazoles showed higher photostability than the acetylated derivative under the evaluated conditions. The three benzoxazoles presented SPF values of around 40 and preliminary results indicate that they show suitable properties to act as good chemical filters in photoprotective formulations.
ABSTRACT
ABSTRACT The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere(r) UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components.