Cecropia pachystachya Trécul: a promising ingredient for skin-whitening cosmetics

Abstract Because it promotes the lightening of pigment spots, tyrosinase inhibition is one of the mechanisms of depigmenting cosmetic products. Considering the adverse effects produced by synthetic depigmenting actives, the search for new therapeutic options is desirable, and plant extracts are possible candidates for hyperpigmentation treatment. Glycolic extracts of Cecropia pachystachya Trécul are, therefore, the focus of this study. Its chemical characterization, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and cell viability were evaluated. Glycolic extracts were obtained by macerating the leaves of C. pachystachya in grain alcohol and glycerin or propylene glycol. Both had a similar chemical constitution, the glycerin being more efficient in concentrating phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Analyses by UHPLC-MS detected quinic acid, chlorogenic acid isomers, proanthocyanidin dimers type B and C, catechin/epicatechin, orientin/isoorientin, isoorientin 2"-O-xyloside, vitexin/isovitexin, and rutin. 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid was then quantified was then quantified, with predominance in the extract produced with propylene glycol. These extracts showed a high antioxidant capacity by the method of DPPH, ß-carotene, and nitric oxide. As for depigmenting activity, both extracts were able to inhibit tyrosinase. Cell viability assay also revealed that the extracts could safely be used in concentrations of ≤ 125 µg/mL. Thus, this study demonstrated for the first time that the glycolic extracts of C. pachystachya have promising chemical and biological characteristics for the development of a multifunctional cosmetic with antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibition activities

A indústria do branqueamento em Lisboa: uma etnografia das práticas e produtos para o branqueamento da pele e seus riscos para a saúde dermatológica / The industry of whitening in Lisbon: an ethnography of practices and products for skin bleaching and its risks to dermatological health

Resumo Por meio de um exercício de walking ethnography, pretendemos apresentar uma etnografia da oferta cosmética destinada à despigmentação da pele no coração de Lisboa, focando num fragmento da cidade que junta diferentes propostas e produtos estéticos: spas chineses, salões de beleza e cabeleireiros africanos, lojas do comércio dito "étnico" ligado a imigrantes e portugueses descendentes de populações asiáticas ou africanas. Definimos esse passeio como "caminho do branqueamento" - parafraseando ironicamente o título de um dos mais famosos livros de Michael Jackson, Paths towards a clearing (1989). Considerando o corpo como um projeto em construção, pretendemos mostrar que os imaginários e os desejos ligados ao consumo desses tratamentos, assim como os padrões de beleza veiculados pelo marketing dos produtos de clareamento da pele, refletem e reproduzem variáveis sociais de género, classe e raça. Queremos também evidenciar como a maior parte dos produtos branqueadores, vendidos no centro da cidade, são proibidos pela legislação europeia de regulamentação de cosméticos, devido às altas concentrações de substâncias tóxicas. Essas substâncias, que circulam livremente nas redes do comercio informal, podem ser muito prejudiciais para a saúde dos consumidores, comportando severos riscos dermatológicos.

Abstract Through a walking ethnography exercise, we intend to present an ethnography of the cosmetic offer aimed at depigmenting the skin in the heart of Lisbon, focusing on a fragment of the city that brings together different proposals and aesthetic products: Chinese spas, beauty salons and African hairdressers, shops of the so-called "ethnic" trade linked to immigrants and Portuguese descendants of Asian or African populations. We defined this tour as a "whitening path" - ironically paraphrasing the title of one of Michael Jackson's most famous books, Paths towards a clearing (1989). Considering the body as a project under construction, we intend to show that the imaginary and desires related to the consumption of these treatments, as well as the beauty standards conveyed by the marketing of skin whitening products, reflect and reproduce social variables of gender, class and race. We also want to highlight how most whitening products, sold in the city center, are prohibited by European cosmetics regulation legislation due to the high concentrations of toxic substances. These substances - which circulate freely in the networks of informal commerce - can be very harmful to the consumers' health, carrying severe dermatological risks.

Insights of phytoconstituents and pharmacology activities of Salacca plants

In the last 20 years, plant-based therapy had become the world's attention. Our country Indonesia is popular in itsmegabiodiversity, among which is Salacca zalacca Gaert. (Voss.), or salak. The fruit of this plant is generally utilizedas pickles, chips, etc. However, its benefits for health remain unexplored. Library searches using PubMed, GoogleScholar, Science Direct, and Google resulted that S. zalacca, which contains flavonoids, alkaloids, terpenoids, andsitosterols exerts various pharmacology activities, e.g., antioxidant, cholesterol reducer, antidiabetic, skin whitening,antihyperuricemia, antibacterial, immune system enhancer, cancer cell growth inhibitor, and adsorbent.

Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversies.

Glutathione is a low molecular weight thiol-tripeptide that plays a prominent role in maintaining intracellular redox balance. In addition to its remarkable antioxidant properties, the discovery of its antimelanogenic properties has led to its promotion as a skin-lightening agent. It is widely used for this indication in some ethnic populations. However, there is a dichotomy between evidence to support its effi cacy and safety. The hype around its depigmentary properties may be a marketing gimmick of pharma-cosmeceutical companies. This review focuses on the various aspects of glutathione: its metabolism, mechanism of action and the scientifi c evidence to evaluate its effi cacy as a systemic skin-lightening agent. Glutathione is present intracellularly in its reduced form and plays an important role in various physiological functions. Its skin-lightening effects result from direct as well as indirect inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme and switching from eumelanin to phaeomelanin production. It is available in oral, parenteral and topical forms. Although the use of intravenous glutathione injections is popular, there is no evidence to prove its effi cacy. In fact, the adverse effects caused by intravenous glutathione have led the Food and Drug Administration of Philippines to issue a public warning condemning its use for off-label indications such as skin lightening. Currently, there are three randomized controlled trials that support the skin-lightening effect and good safety profi le of topical and oral glutathione. However, key questions such as the duration of treatment, longevity of skin-lightening effect and maintenance protocols remain unanswered. More randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trials with larger sample size, long-term follow-up and well-defi ned effi cacy outcomes are warranted to establish the relevance of this molecule in disorders of hyperpigmentation and skin lightening.

Phenolic Compounds from the Leaves of Stewartia pseudocamellia Maxim. and their Whitening Activities

The half-dried leaves of Stewartia. pseudocamellia were extracted with hot water (SPE) and partitioned with n-hexane (SPEH), dichloromethane (SPED), and ethyl acetate (SPEE) successively. SPE and SPEE showed significant inhibitory effects against melanogenesis and tyrosinase activities. By bioassay-guided isolation, ten phenolic compounds were isolated by column chromatography from SPEE. The whitening effect of the isolated compounds from SPEE were tested for the inhibitory activities against melanogenesis using B16 melanoma cells, in vitro inhibition of tyrosinase, and L-3,4-dihydorxy-indole-2-carboxylic acid (L-DOPA) auto-oxidation assay. A cytotoxic activity assay was done to examine the cellular toxicity in Raw 264.7 macrophage cells. Of the compounds isolated, gallic acid and quercetin revealed significant inhibitory activities against melanogenesis compared to arbutin. In particular, quercetin exhibited similar inhibitory activities against tyrosinase and L-DOPA oxidation without cytotoxicity. These results suggested that SPE could be used as a potential source of natural skin-whitening material in cosmetics as well as in food products.

Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-Angiogenic and Skin Whitening Activities of Phryma leptostachya var. asiatica Hara Extract

This work aimed to assess some pharmacological activities of P. leptostachya var. asiatica Hara. The dried roots of P. leptostachya var. asiatica Hara were extracted with 70% ethanol to generate the powdered extract, named PLE. Anti-angiogenic activity was detected using chick chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) assay. In vitro anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated via analyzing nitric oxide (NO) content, inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW264.7 macrophage cells. Antioxidant activity was determined by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay and reactive oxygen species (ROS) level in the stimulated macrophage cells. Matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and -2 (MMP-2) activities in the culture media were detected using zymography. PLE exhibits an anti-angiogenic activity in the CAM assay, and displays an inhibitory action on the generation of NO in the LPS-stimulated macrophage cells. In the stimulated macrophage cells, it is able to diminish the enhanced ROS level. It can potently scavenge the stable DPPH free radical. It suppresses the induction of iNOS and COX-2 and the enhanced MMP-9 activity in the stimulated macrophage cells. Both monooxygenase and oxidase activities of tyrosinase were strongly inhibited by PLE. Taken together, the dried roots of P. leptostachya var. asiatica Hara possess anti-angiogenic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and skin whitening activities, which might partly provide its therapeutic efficacy in traditional medicine.

Skin Whitening Effects of Sanguisorba officinalis and Stichopus japonicus / 한국실험동물학회지

This study is aimed to evaluate skin whitening effects of Sanguisorba officinalis and Stichopus japonicus for cosmeceutical ingredients. The extract of Stichopus japonicus showed 61.78% inhibition of tyrosinase activity, and the mixture of Sanguisorba officinalis extract and Stichopus japonicus extract showed 59.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. On the clone M-3 cell meloanocyte, the mixture of Sanguisorba officinalis extract and Stichopus japonicus extract showed remarkable inhibition of melanogenesis. Also, those extracts were not irritable in ocular irritation test. It is concluded from these results that Sanguisorba officinalis and Stichopus japonicus have skin whitening effect. It could be used as natural depigmental material in cosmeceutical ingredients.

Skin Whitening Effects of Sanguisorba officinalis and Stichopus japonicus / 한국실험동물학회지

This study is aimed to evaluate skin whitening effects of Sanguisorba officinalis and Stichopus japonicus for cosmeceutical ingredients. The extract of Stichopus japonicus showed 61.78% inhibition of tyrosinase activity, and the mixture of Sanguisorba officinalis extract and Stichopus japonicus extract showed 59.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. On the clone M-3 cell meloanocyte, the mixture of Sanguisorba officinalis extract and Stichopus japonicus extract showed remarkable inhibition of melanogenesis. Also, those extracts were not irritable in ocular irritation test. It is concluded from these results that Sanguisorba officinalis and Stichopus japonicus have skin whitening effect. It could be used as natural depigmental material in cosmeceutical ingredients.

Glutathione supplements and the skin: An exploratory study and review of the best current evidence

BACKGROUND: Glutathione is an important intracellular anti-oxidant involved in different cellular and body functions. In recent years, glutathione-containing products have become extremely popular as evidenced by the proliferation of these products especially for 'skin whitening'. The investigators conducted this exploratory study in preparation for further investigations to validate the efficacy and safety of glutathione-containing products. OBJECTIVES: 1) To describe the different glutathione products, their claims on efficacy and safety, as advertised on the Internet; 2) To report the best current evidence on the claims of efficacy and safety of glutathione supplements and glutathione-containing products for the skin. METHOD: An online search for glutathione distributors was conducted from February to March 2008 to find out their claims on the efficacy and safety of glutathione-containing supplements or IV glutathione. For the search of the best current evidence on glutathione products, various electronic databases were searched up to September 2008 for any human clinical trials or reports of adverse events. Key informants were also interviewed. RESULTS: From the Internet search, there were 20 brands oftopical glutathione products, 21 oral preparations, and 2 injectable glutathione products. There were also a variety of glutathione formulations available, mainly capsules containg glutathione plus other antioxidants. All products claimed a skin 'whitening' effect. There were no published human clinical trials, whether quasi-experimental or controlled trials (ex. RCTs) supporting the claims of skin whitening or skin rejuvenating effects of glutathione. There was one unpublished randomized controlled trial and one local clinical trial ongoing in the Philippines. No adverse events associated with glutathione products were reported in published literature. Anecdotal reports of adverse effects were gathered during key informant interviews. CONCLUSIONS: The evidence on whitening and skin rejuvenation effects and safety is insufficient because these are based on testimonials and anecdotal reports, all of which are at high risk of bias. The magnitude of glutathione's skin whitening effect nor its side-effects have not yet been established. RECOMMENDATIONS: Good quality, randomized, controlled trials are needed to validate claims of skin 'whitening' from the use of glutathione supplementation or glutathione skin products. Health professionals and consumers should document and report adverse events related to glutathione-containing products for the sake of public safety.

Progress on New Type of Skin Whitening Agents / 环境与健康杂志

This paper reviewed some new types of skin whitening agents and their mechanisms of action from aspects of suppressing melanogenesis, reducing melanosome transference and enhancing desquamation of melanin pigment from the epidermis etc.