Plants with antioxidant activity and their potential use as sun protector agents in Costa Rica

SUMMARY Aims: To carry out a bibliographic review related to plants available in Costa Rica that have demonstrated antioxidant power and a sun protection factor (SPF) suitable to be used in sunscreen products. Methods: The bibliographic review was carried out using different descriptors and by consulting different databases. Results: Information about antioxidant power about acerola, avocado, carrots, passion fruit, moringa, banana, pumpkin and amaranth, guava, matico, ginkgo, blackberry, mango, coffee was obtained. The information obtained suggests that the mentioned plants could be used for the formulation of sunscreens. Conclusion: Sun protection products should be used every day to prevent skin damage; some sunscreens produce allergic reactions, so it is necessary to investigate natural options to be used in sun protection products. Some natural products exhibit SPF values that allow their incorporation as sun protection agents, adjuvants, or enhancers in sunscreens.

Objetivo: llevar a cabo una investigación bibliográfica sobre plantas disponibles en Costa Rica que han demostrado su poder antioxidante y un factor de protector solar (SPF) apto para ser utilizados en protectores solares. Métodos: la revisión bibliográfica se realizó utilizando diferentes descriptores y mediante la consulta en diferentes bases de datos. Resultados: se obtuvo información sobre el poder antioxidante de las plantas: acerola, aguacate, zanahoria, maracuyá, moringa, banano, calabaza y amaranto, guayaba, matico, ginkgo, mora, mango, café. La información obtenida sugiere que las plantas mencionadas podrían ser utilizadas para la formulación de protectores solares. Conclusiones: los protectores solares deben ser utilizados diariamente para prevenir el daño sobre la piel. Algunos de estos productos generan reacciones alérgicas y por esta razón es necesario investigar posibles opciones naturales para ser incorporadas en bloqueadores solares. Algunos productos naturales exhiben valores de SPF que permiten su uso como agentes protectores solares, adyuvantes o potenciadores en los bloqueadores solares.

Objetivo: realizar uma pesquisa bibliográfica sobre plantas disponíveis na Costa Rica que demonstraram poder antioxidante e um fator de proteção solar (FPS) adequado para uso em protetores solares. Métodos: a revisão bibliográfica foi realizada usando diferentes descritores e consultando diferentes bases de dados. Resultados: foram obtidas informações sobre o poder antioxidante das plantas: acerola, abacate, cenoura, maracujá, moringa, banana, abóbora e amaranto, goiaba, matico, ginkgo, amora, manga, café. As informações sugerem que as referidas plantas poderiam ser utilizadas para a formulação de protetores solares. Conclusões: protetores solares devem ser usados diariamente para prevenir danos à pele. Alguns desses produtos geram reações alérgicas e por isso é necessário investigar possíveis opções naturais para serem incorporadas aos protetores solares. Alguns produtos naturais apresentam valores de FPS que permitem seu uso como protetores solares, adjuvantes ou potencializadores em protetores solares.

Sunscreen lotions in the dermatological prescription: review of concepts and controversies

Abstract The skin is regularly exposed to several environmental aggressions, including solar radiation, whose biological effects can induce sunburn, dyschromia, skin aging and cancer. Among the photoprotection measures, sunscreens comprise a relevant part of the strategy aimed to prevent solar radiation damage and, for effective action, the patient must adhere to the product use and the latter, in turn, must follow technical parameters to promote adequate protection. This review article brings together the most current and relevant concepts about photoprotection for dermatological use, including the challenges for their formulation, the risks of certain photoprotective active substances for individual and environmental safety and the importance of stringency in determining the product efficacy, considering the regulatory aspects, highlighting relevant differences between Brazil and other countries. Thus, when assessing a sunscreen, not only the visual aspects and sensory perception will be immediately evaluated, but also the quality and suitability of the vehicle, the chemical composition of the formulation, the environmental risks, the photostability of the screening system, and the measurement of its protection spectrum. Technical knowledge of sunscreens can help dermatologists in this important role of educating patients about the best photoprotective strategies in each situation.

Actividad fotoprotectora de una crema con extracto acuoso liofilizado de Lepidium meyenii (MACA) frente a la irradiación ultravioleta en piel de ratones / Photoprotective activity of a cream containing lyophilized aqueous extract of Lepidium meyenii (MACA) against ultraviolet irradiation on mouse skin

RESUMEN Objetivos: Evaluar la actividad fotoprotectora de una crema con extracto acuoso liofilizado de maca (ELM) frente a la irradiación ultravioleta (UV) en la piel de ratones. Materiales y métodos: Se realizó un estudio experimental en 35ratones BALB/c. Los tratamientos fueron aplicados por vía tópica en el dorso de los animales y posteriormente irradiados con rayos ultravioleta B, para luego medir el grosor en micras (µm) de muestras histológicas de la piel de los ratones. Se asignaron siete grupos divididos en no irradiado: blanco (G1) e irradiados con luz UV: sin tratamiento (G2); con protector solar comercial con factor de protección solar (FPS) 30 (G3); crema (placebo) (G4); ELM al 15% en agua (G5); ELM al 5% en crema (G6); y ELM al 15% en crema (G7). Se determinó el FPS in vitro, mediante el método de Mansur. Se realizaron las lecturas de las absorbancias en un espectrofotómetro ultravioleta-visible (UV-VIS) y se determinaron los FPS para las siguientes formulaciones: ELM al 5% en crema, benzofenona-4 (BZF-4) y bloqueador solar comercial FPS 30. Resultados: El grosor de piel de ratón en micras (µm) fue de 27,28 en G2; 18,31 en G3; 27,33 en G4; 19,51 en G5 y 18,04 en G6; no hubo diferencia significativa entre el grupo no expuesto a la radiación (G1) y el grupo ELM al 15% en crema (G7), ambos presentaron los menores grosores (12,76 y 14,20 µm, respectivamente). El FPS de ELM al 15% en crema fue 5,480 ± 0,020. Conclusiones: La formulación con ELM en crema presentó actividad fotoprotectora frente a la irradiación UV, los alcaloides fueron los componentes fitoquímicos mayormente encontrados y la formulación fue compatible con el activo (ELM).

ABSTRACT Objectives: To evaluate the photoprotective activity of a cream with lyophilized aqueous extract of maca (LEM) against ultraviolet (UV) irradiation in the skin of mice. Materials and methods: An experimental study was carried out on 35 BALB/c mice. Treatment was applied topically on the dorsum of the animals, which were subsequently irradiated with ultraviolet B rays, and then we measured the thickness in microns (μm) of histological samples of the skin of the mice. Seven groups were assigned, divided into non-irradiated: Blank (G1) and irradiated with UV light: no treatment (G2); with commercial sunscreen with sun protection factor (SPF) 30 (G3); cream (placebo) (G4); LEM at 15% in water (G5); LEM cream at 5% (G6); and LEM cream at 15% (G7). In vitro SPF was determined using the Mansur method. Absorbance readings were taken in an ultraviolet- visible spectrophotometer (UV-VIS) and SPFs were determined for the following formulations: LEM cream at 5%, benzophenone-4 (BZF-4) and commercial sunscreen SPF 30. Results: Mouse skin thickness in microns (μm) was 27.28 in G2; 18.31 in G3; 27.33 in G4; 19.51 in G5 and 18.04 in G6. There was no significant difference between the group not exposed to radiation (G1) and the 15% LEM cream group (G7), both had the lowest thicknesses (12.76 and 14.20 μm, respectively). The SPF of LEM cream at 15% was 5.480 ± 0.020. Conclusions: The formulation with LEM cream showed photoprotective activity against UV irradiation, alkaloids were the phytochemical components mostly found and the formulation was compatible with the active principle (LEM).

Quantifying the inovation of cosmetic formulations that contains phenolic rich fruit extracts as fotoprotective bioactives / Quantificando a inovação de formulações cosméticas que contêm extratos de frutas ricas em substâncias fenólicas como bioativos fotoprotetivos

Introduction: sunscreen is a cosmetic used to protect human skin from the deleterious effects of UV radiation and thus minimize the risks of developing skin cancer. Extracts produced from fruits, such as Abiu, Guava, Rambutan and Grape, have significant concentrations of chromophores and phenolic substances that have the ability to absorb UV light and neutralize free radicals. The production of cosmetics from naturally occurring substances with such activities will be of great importance for Brazilian industry and could reduce the cost of production, given the large existing biodiversity in the country. Objectives: carry out a patent search for formulations and cosmetic products that contains phenolic rich fruit extracts as photoprotective and antioxidant bioactives. Methodology: a survey of patents was carried out in the database of the National Institute of Intellectual Property (INPI) and the European Patent Office (EPO), covering a time period between 2008 and 2018, using a combination of keywords related to herbal cosmetics and sunscreens. Results: this research identifies a significant number of patents related to plant extract in association with sunscreen product, however, no patent filings were identified for cosmetic products containing extracts of the evaluated fruits, either alone or in combination, for photoprotective and antioxidant purposes. Conclusion: the Brazilian and international market for sun care products moves millions to billions of dollars annually and have a significant annual growth prospect. Considering the great biodiversity existing in the country, the production of cosmetics from naturally occurring substances with such activities will be of great importance for the Brazilian industrial sector.

Introdução: os filtros solares são cosméticos usados para proteger a pele humana dos efeitos deletérios da radiação UV e assim, minimizar os riscos de desenvolvimento de câncer de pele. Extratos produzidos a partir de frutos, como Abiu, Goiaba, Rambutan e Uva, têm concentrações significativas de cromóforos e substâncias fenólicas que têm a capacidade de absorver a radiação UV e neutralizar os radicais livres. A produção de cosméticos a partir de substâncias naturais com essas atividades será de grande importância para a indústria brasileira e poderá reduzir o custo de produção, dada a grande biodiversidade existente no país. Objetivos: realizar uma busca de registros de patentes de formulações e produtos cosméticos que contêm extratos de frutos ricos em fenólicos como bioativos fotoprotetores e antioxidantes. Metodologia: foi realizado um levantamento de patentes no banco de dados do Instituto Nacional de Propriedade Intelectual (INPI) e do Escritório Europeu de Patentes (EPO), abrangendo um período de tempo entre 2008 e 2018, utilizando uma combinação de palavras-chave relacionadas a cosméticos à base de plantas e protetores solares. Resultados: esta pesquisa identificou um número significativo de patentes relacionadas ao extrato de plantas em associação ao produto protetor solar, no entanto, não foram identificados pedidos de patente para produtos cosméticos que contenham extratos das frutas avaliadas, isoladamente ou em combinação, para fins fotoprotetores e antioxidantes. Conclusão: o mercado brasileiro e internacional de produtos de proteção solar movimenta milhões a bilhões de dólares anualmente e tem a perspectiva de crescimento anual significativa. Considerando a grande biodiversidade existente no país, a produção de cosméticos a partir de substâncias naturais com essas atividades será de grande importância para o setor industrial brasileiro.

Dermatosis provocadas por la luz solar en pacientes menores de 18 años / Dermatosis caused by sunlight in patients under 18 years / Dermatose causada pela luz solar em pacientes com menos de 18 anos

RESUMEN Introducción: en la población pediátrica se han incrementado las dermatosis provocadas por la luz solar a una velocidad sin precedentes, que son más comunes en otro grupo de pacientes. Objetivo: caracterizar las afecciones cutáneas provocadas por la luz solar en pacientes menores de 18 años. Método: se realizó un estudio de tipo descriptivo, prospectivo longitudinal, para determinar las afecciones cutáneas provocadas por la luz solar en pacientes menores de 18 años, atendidos en las consultas de dermatología de las diferentes áreas de salud del municipio Bayamo, en el período de Enero del 2012 a Diciembre del 2013. El universo estuvo integrado por todos los pacientes atendidos en las consultas de Dermatología de la Atención Primaria de Salud de Bayamo, quedando constituida la muestra por 159 pacientes que cumplieron con los criterios de inclusión. Resultados: se puedo observar que el sexo masculino representó un 64,8%, con 103 pacientes. El lugar de procedencia con mayor número fue el rural con 91 pacientes para 57,2%. El fototipo II representó el grupo de pacientes más afectados con 128 pacientes para un 80.5%. El fototipo I y III se presentan de forma análoga, con un 10.7% y un 8.8% respectivamente. El grupo de edad con mayor número de casos fue el de 15 a 18 años con 101 casos para 63,5 %, las afecciones cutáneas provocadas por la luz solarque aparecieron en áreas expuesta de la piel predominando las pecas, los antecedentes personales de cáncer cutáneo se presentó en un caso, representando el 0.6 % del total de los pacientes estudiados. No se presentaron antecedentes familiares de cáncer cutáneo en ninguno de los pacientes. Conclusiones: las afecciones cutáneas provocadas por la luz solar que predominaron en pacientes de procedencia rural, en la adolescencia tardía, fototipo de piel II, sexo masculino y en zonas de piel foto expuesta. Las lesiones de mayor prevalencia fueron las efélides y la mayoría de los pacientes con foto dermatosis no presentaron antecedentes personales ni familiares de cáncer cutáneo.

ABSTRACT Introduction: in the pediatric population, dermatoses caused by sunlight have increased at an unprecedented rate, which are more common in another group of patients. Objective: to characterize skin conditions caused by sunlight in patients under 18 years of age. Method: a descriptive, prospective, longitudinal study was carried out to determine the cutaneous affections caused by sunlight in patients under 18 years of age, attended in the dermatology consultations of the different health areas of the municipality of Bayamo, during the period of January 2017 to December 2018. The universe consisted of all the patients seen in the Dermatology offices of the Primary Health Care of Bayamo, and the sample was constituted by 159 patients who met the inclusion criteria. Results: we can observe that the male sex represented 64.8%, with 103 patients. The place of origin with the greatest number was rural with 91 patients for 57.2%. Phototype II represented the group of patients most affected with 128 patients for 80.5%. Phototype I and III are presented analogously, with 10.7% and 8.8% respectively. The age group with the highest number of cases was 15 to 18 years with 101 cases for 63.5%, skin conditions caused by sunlight that appeared in exposed areas of the skin, freckles predominating, personal history of skin cancer it was presented in one case, representing 0.6% of the total of the patients studied. No family history of skin cancer was present in any of the patients. Conclusions: skin conditions caused by sunlight that prevailed in patients of rural origin, late adolescence, skin phototype II, male sex and skin photo exposed areas. The most prevalent lesions were freckles and the majority of patients with photodermatitis had no personal or family history of skin cancer.

RESUMO Introdução: na população pediátrica, as dermatoses causadas pela luz solar aumentaram a uma taxa sem precedentes, que são mais comuns em outro grupo de pacientes. Objetivo: caracterizar as condições de pele causadas pela luz solar em pacientes com menos de 18 anos de idade. Método: estudo descritivo, prospectivo, longitudinal, realizado para determinar as alterações cutâneas causadas pela luz solar em pacientes com idade inferior a 18 anos, atendidas nas consultas de dermatologia das diferentes áreas da saúde do município de Bayamo, durante o período de Janeiro de 2012 a dezembro de 2013. O universo constou de todos os pacientes atendidos nos consultórios de Dermatologia da Atenção Primária à Saúde de Bayamo, sendo a amostra constituída por 159 pacientes que atenderam aos critérios de inclusão. Resultados: podemos observar que o sexo masculino representou 64,8%, com 103 pacientes. O local de origem com maior número foi rural com 91 pacientes para 57,2%. O fototipo II representou o grupo de pacientes mais acometidos, com 128 pacientes, por 80,5%. Os fototipos I e III são apresentados de forma análoga, com 10,7% e 8,8%, respectivamente. A faixa etária com maior número de casos foi de 15 a 18 anos, sendo 101 casos com 63,5%, condições de pele causadas por luz solar que apareceu em áreas expostas da pele, predominando sardas, histórico pessoal de câncer de pele foi apresentado em um caso, representando 0,6% do total de pacientes estudados. Nenhuma história familiar de câncer de pele estava presente em nenhum dos pacientes. Conclusões: condições de pele causadas pela luz solar que predominaram em pacientes de origem rural, adolescência tardia, fototipo II, sexo masculino e áreas expostas à foto da pele. As lesões mais prevalentes foram as sardas e a maioria dos pacientes com fotodermatite não apresentava história pessoal ou familiar de câncer de pele.

Photoprotective activity and increase of SPF in sunscreen formulation using lyophilized red propolis extracts from Alagoas

ABSTRACT The excessive sun exposure, coupled with lack of sun protection represents one of the biggest risks to the occurrence of skin cancer and photoaging. Recent strategies for photoprotection have included the incorporation of natural antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds, into sunscreens, and the oral administration of natural antioxidant extracts. In this work, we use Brazilian red propolis extract because its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. The aim of this work was to evaluate the sun protection factor and antioxidant activity of different hydroalcoholic extracts of red propolis (70% and 75%) prepared from lyophilized red propolis at room and high temperatures. The sun protection factor in vitro was determined by a spectrophotometric method developed by Mansur. The hydroalcoholic extracts of red propolis incorporated with Filter UVA-UVB 5% Gel Permulem TR-1 presented absorption in the UVB region. Also, the in vitro capacity of the hydroalcoholic extracts of red propolis to increase photoprotective activity of Filter UVA-UVB 5% Gel was evaluated. The hydroalcoholic extracts of red propolis incorporated presented higher values of sun protection factor and showed synergism in the photoprotective activity of Filter UVA-UVB 5% Gel Permulem TR-1. The antioxidant activity and sun protection factor are correlated with total phenolics content of the extracts and the hydroalcoholic extract of red propolis 75% at room temperature was choosen. The formulation developed with Filter UVA-UVB 5% Gel Permulem TR-1 with this hydroalcoholic extract of red propolis showed safe to be applied on the skin according HET-CAM test. Suggests indication of hydroalcoholic extract of red propolis (75% - room temperature) associated to photoprotective formulations for use in photoprotective products.

Does using a high sun protection factor sunscreen on face, along with physical photoprotection advice, in patients with melasma, change serum vitamin D concentration in Indian conditions? A pragmatic pretest-posttest study

Background: Use of sunscreens on the face is becoming popular, and patients with melasma are prescribed sunscreen for use on the face. Results of a few Western studies on the effect of sunscreen use on serum vitamin D concentration are not applicable to Indian conditions. Aims: To examine the effect of use of a high sun protection factor (SPF 50+, PA++++) sunscreen on face in patients with melasma on serum concentration of 25-hydroxyvitamin D. Methods: Forty-five Indian patients (Fitzpatrick skin types III and IV) with melasma were advised to use a sunscreen with SPF 50 + for 3 months, 43 (33 female, 10 male; age 32.9 ± 8 years) completed the study. Patients staying outdoor for <4 hours applied sunscreen once daily after bath. Patients staying outdoors for >4 hours reapplied sunscreen 4 hours after first application. Patients were provided a container to measure the amount of sunscreen for use, which was approximately equal to recommended thickness. Compliance was tested by weighing the used tubes and tubes in use during monthly visits. Serum concentration of 25-hydroxyvitamin D was tested before and after the study period. Results: Amount of sunscreen advised (100.5 ± 29.2 ml) and the actual amount used (96.6 ± 27.9 ml) were similar (P = 0.53, t-test). The difference between serum concentrations of 25-hydroxyvitamin D at the baseline (19.20 ± 9.06 ng/ml) and at 3 months (18.91 ± 8.39 ng/ml) was not significant (P = 0.87, paired t-test, 95% confidence interval of difference −3.33 to 3.92). No correlation was found between the amount of sunscreen used and the percentage change in serum 25-hydroxyvitamin D concentration at 3 months (rho = 0.099, P = 0.528, Spearman's rank correlation). Limitations: Longer duration of application and a larger sample size may detect minor differences in vitamin D concentration. Conclusion: Using a high SPF sunscreen on the face, along with physical photoprotection advice, in patients with melasma for 3 months does not influence serum 25-hydroxyvitamin D concentration in Indian conditions.

A randomized study to evaluate the efficacy and effectiveness of two sunscreen formulations on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities

Background: Regular exposure to ultraviolet rays is high in India, where most Indians present Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV and V. Aims: To evaluate the efficacy and compare the effectiveness of two sunscreen products on Indian skin types IV and V with pigmentation irregularities. Methods: A randomized, uncontrolled and investigator-blinded, single-center study enrolled adult men and women (18–45 years) with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV (28° < individual typological angle <10°) and V (10° < individual typological angle < −30°) with pigmentary abnormalities seen on the face in adults (actinic lentigines and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation), who did not use sunscreens. Participants were randomized (1:1) to either of the two marketed sunscreen products, Product A (sun protection factor 50 PA+++) or Product B (sun protection factor 19 PA+++), applied twice daily before sun exposure for ≥2 h. Primary objectives aimed at assessing possible improvement in hyperpigmented spots and overall skin appearance after 12 weeks of use. Evaluation of skin radiance and skin color was done by means of L'Oréal color chart and colorimetric measurements (Chromameter®). Results: Among the 230 enrolled participants, 216 (93.91%) completed the study. The clinical assessment of the density of pigmented spots and skin radiance showed significant (P < 0.001) improvement in both groups during all visits. The qualitative (participant perception) and quantitative (Chromameter®) data indicated improvement in pigmentation from Week 0 to Week 12. Both products were well-tolerated. Limitations: The study was conducted over a rather short period of time (12 weeks) at a single location. Conclusions: This is the first study conducted on Indian skin phototypes IV and V under real-life conditions. It demonstrated the effect of regular sunscreen usage in the prevention of certain signs of skin photoaging such as increased pigmentation or pigmentary abnormalities, thus providing support and assistance to clinicians in suggesting the use of efficient sun-screening products to patients.

Extract from byproduct Psidium guajava standardized in ellagic acid: additivation of the in vitro photoprotective efficacy of a cosmetic formulation

ABSTRACT The fruits of guava, Psidium guajava L., Myrtaceae, are cultivated as food and used in agroindustries, generating byproducts or waste that represent environmental problems and require adequate destination. However, these byproducts present high levels of secondary metabolites and have been awakened interest regarding to its reusing. The extract was standardized in ellagic acid concentration by high performance liquid chromatography. The additivation capacity in the in vitro photoprotective efficacy of guava byproduct extract standardized in ellagic acid was verified as a result of its incorporation in cosmetic formulations, comparing it with a standard product. The extract presented synergy with the chemical UV filter (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), enhancing the solar protection factor of the phytocosmetic in 17.99%. Besides that, it was possible to show its antioxidant activity and the presence of secondary metabolites such as phenols and flavonoids. According to the results, it is possible to claim that the extract from the guava's agroindustrial byproducts present potential to be studied and reused, applying on the development of innovative products intended to the photoprotection care.

Photoprotection in adolescents: what they know and how they behave

Abstract: Background: The greatest sun exposure occurs until adolescence and this is the only factor involved in photocarcinogenesis subject to modification with photoprotection. Objective: The objective of this study was to evaluate the habits and knowledge of adolescents regarding photoprotection. Method: Cross-sectional study that included 512 students from primary and high school. Data were collected by questionnaires with questions about habits and knowledge on sun protection. For data analysis, Pearson's Chi-square test and Yates test were applied, with 5% level of significance. Results: We evaluated 512 students, with a mean age of 14 years old. The teenagers agreed that ultraviolet rays cause skin cancer and aging (96% and 70%, respectively). Knowledge about the occurrence of burns even on cloudy days was recorded in 68% of cases, as well as the need for photoprotection for sports in 72%. The source of information about sun protection were by parents in 55%. In 70% was observed previous occurrence of sunburn, the daily use of sunscreens was found in 15% and 67% used only at the beach. of sunscreens with SPF higher than 30 was reported by 70% of students and 57% reported going to the beach between 10h and 16h. In 68% of cases it was registered insufficient sun protection, attributed, in 57% of the time to forgetfulness. Study limitations: The sample refers to two schools of Curitiba (PR), Brazil. Conclusion: Teenagers know the risks of sun exposure, but they do not adopt the practices for adequate protection.

Reações adversas ocasionadas por uso de protetores solares / Adverse reactions caused by the use of sunscreens

Introdução: O excesso de exposição da pele ao sol pode ocasionar o fotoenvelhecimento e favorecer o surgimento de neoplasias malignas na pele. Assim, os protetores solares tornaram- se amplamente utilizados para a prevenção de danos solares, a curto e longo prazo. Podem ocasionalmente provocar reações adversas em crianças e adultos. Objetivo: Analisar a frequencia e os tipos de reações adversas ocasionadas por protetores solares em adultos e crianças. Métodos: Análise de banco de dados sobre estudos clínicos não invasivos in vivo, em face e corpo, realizados em instituto de pesquisa clínica, em São Paulo, Brasil. Resultados: Foram avaliados de janeiro de 2014 a dezembro de 2015, dados de 2263 adultos e 523 crianças. 13,92% dos adultos e 4,44% das crianças apresentaram algum tipo de reação adversa leve. Conclusões: Observou-se que os protetores solares são eficazes na prevenção do fotoenvelhecimento e câncer de pele. As formulações cosméticas com filtros solares podem ocasionar reações adversas com baixa prevalência.

Introduction: Overexposure of the skin to the sunlight can cause photoaging and promote the emergence of malignant neoplasms. Sunscreens are used to prevent these alterations and may occasionally cause adverse reactions in children and adults. Objective: To analyze the frequency and types of adverse reactions caused by sunscreens in adults and children. Methods: Data analysis of in vivo, non-invasive clinical studies performed at a clinical research institute. Results: Data from 2,263 adults and 523 children were evaluated, with 13.92% and 4.44%, respectively, presenting some type of reaction. Conclusions: Sunscreens are effective in preventing photoaging and skin cancer. Cosmetic formulations containing sunscreens may cause adverse reactions with low prevalence.

Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

ABSTRACT The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere(r) UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components.

Determination of sun protection factor and antioxidant properties of six Chilean Altiplano plants / Determinación del factor de protección solar y propiedades antioxidante de seis plantas del Altiplano Chileno

In the present study, we investigated sun protection factor and antioxidant properties of Parastrephia lepidophyla Cabr., Fabiana squamata Phil., Ephedra chilensis K.Presl., Lampaya medicinalis Phil., Baccharis tola Phil., and Azorella compacta Phil. The ethanol extracts were tested regarding their in vitro free radical scavenger ability and sun protection factor (SPF). Due to its antioxidant and photoprotective properties, B. tola is a promising candidate for use in cosmetic formulations. To evaluate the regenerative capacity of the B. tola extract, the planarian regeneration assay (Dugesia tigrina) was performed. Identification of phenolic compounds in B. tola, was performed by HPLC-ESI-MS/MS. Based on freeze-dried extracts of B. tola, a facial cream and a biphasic lotion with repairing tip action were formulated. These two formulations were evaluated by additional assays including organoleptic tests, measurement of pH, centrifugation and patch test to check a potential hypersensitivity (skin irritation) which can be induced by the products as well as a sensory survey. Stability studies, carried out over 12 months, prove that formulations were stable over time. It can be concluded that both products are innovative and shown solar protection, antioxidant and regenerative properties.

En el presente estudio, hemos investigado el factor de protección solar y propiedades antioxidantes de Parastrephia lepidophyla Cabr., Fabiana squamata Phil., Ephedra chilensis K.Presl., Lampaya medicinalis Phil., Baccharis tola Phil., y Azorella compacta Phil. Los extractos etanolicos fueron sometidos a ensayos como: evaluación in vitro de la actividad atrapadora de radicales libres y factor de protección solar (FPS). Debido a las propiedades antioxidantes y fotoprotectoras, B. tola es un candidato ideal para ser usado en formulaciones cosméticas. Se evaluó la capacidad regenerativa de B. tola en ensayos de planaria (Dugesia tigrina). Se identificó polifenoles por HPLC-ESI-MS/MS en B. tola. Se formularon una crema facial y una loción bifásica reparadora de puntas del cabello, en base a extractos liofilizados de Ñaca, a los cuales se le realizaron controles organolépticos, evaluación de pH, centrifugación, test de parche para evaluar la posible reacción de sensibilidad que pueden ocasionar los productos, comprobando que estos no producen irritación dérmica y posterior encuesta sensorial. Posteriormente, se realizaron estudios de estabilidad a lo largo de 12 meses, demostrando ser estable en el tiempo. Se puede concluir que ambos productos son innovadores y que muestran factor de protección solar, propiedades antioxidantes y regeneradoras.

Spectrophotometric Determination of Sun Protection Factor and Antioxidant Potential of an Herbal Mixture.

Objectives: Present research work deals with the determination of hydroxyl radical scavenging potential and Sun Protection Factor of herbal mixture which was prepared by the phytochemical composition of different herbal extracts. Materials and Methods: The herbal mixture was prepared by the composition of important herbal plant extracts such as; 50% ethanolic extract of Berberis aristata root, 30% ethanolic extract of Ficus benghalensis bark, ethanolic extract of Asparagus racemosus root, aqueous extract of Asparagus racemosus root, 30% methanolic extract of Butea monosperma flowers, gel extract of Aloe vera, 80% ethanolic extract of Terminalia arjuna bark, 80% ethanolic extract of Cyperus rotundus root, 80% ethanolic extract of Rubia cordifolia root and 50% methanolic extract of Hibiscus-rosa-sinensis flowers, which was further proceed for hydroxyl radical scavenging activity and Sun Protection Factor determination at different concentrations viz;0.5%, 1%, 5% and 10%. Results: IC50 values of Ascorbic acid was found to be 52.93±2.64% (Inhibition TBARS) at the concentration of 18.00 μg/ml and herbal mixture were 51.58±1.27% (Inhibition TBARS) observed at the concentration of 9.80 μg/ml respectively. The SPF values for different concentrations of herbal mixture were in between 2.14±0.15SPF to 12.97±0.07SPF. The results showed that 10% concentrated of herbal mixture has high SPF value of 12.97±0.07SPF which may be attributed due to the presence of active components. Conclusion: Herbs and herbal preparations have high potential due to their antioxidant activity, primarily. The bioactive compounds such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, saponins etc. of this prepared herbal mixture may able to reduce skin damages which are caused due to long time exposure of skin in sun rays specially UVA and UVB rays. The proposed spectrophotometric method is simple and rapid for the in vitro determination of SPF values of sunscreens emulsions.

Análise espectrofotométrica da atividade fotoprotetora in vitro de extratos das folhas de Byrsonima sericea / Spectrophotometric analyses of in vitro photoprotective activity of extracts from the leaves of Byrsonima sericea

No Brasil, o número de casos de câncer de pele tem aumentado, representando um considerável problema de saúde pública. Diversos fitocosméticos têm sido desenvolvidos com filtros solares e sob ponto de vista mercadológico a adição de produtos naturais, em particular contendo compostos fenólicos, tem sido alvo de vários estudos. O objetivo desse trabalho foi determinar o Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) dos extratos etanólico (ET-NOV e ET FEV) e aquoso (AQFEV) das folhas de murici (Byrsonima sericea) e avaliar o seu potencial de aditivação do FPS em uma emulsão contendo o filtro químico metoxicinamato de octila. Foi realizada uma triagem fitoquímica preliminar para cada extrato. O Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) foi determinado pelo método espectrofotométrico. A triagem fitoquímica revelou a presença de taninos e heterosídeos digitálicos para todos os extratos. O fator de proteção solar (FPS) para os extratos etanólico (ETNOV e ET FEV) e aquoso (AQ-FEV) das folhas do murici (Byrsonima sericea) não foram significativos (FPS 1.44, 1.36 e 0.68, respectivamente). Da mesma forma, a associação do extrato etanólico da folhas da Byrsonima sericea e metoxinamato de octila não mostraram ação sinérgica.

In Brazil, the number of cases of skin cancer has increased, representing a significant public health problem. Various phytocosmetics have been developed with sunscreens and from marketing's point of view the addition of natural products in particular containing phenolic compounds, has been the subject of several studies. The aim of this study was to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) of Birsonima sericea leaves ethanolic extract (ET-NOV and ET-FEV) and aqueous extract (AQ­FEV)) and assess its potential for additive in SPF in a formulation containing the chemical filter metoxycinamate octyl. The method in vitro used in the calculation of SPF was by spectrophotometry method. Phytochemical screening revealed the presence of tannins and glycosides in all the extracts. The sun protection factor (SPF) of B. sericea leaves ethanolic extract (ET-NOV and ET-FEV) and aqueous extract (AQ­FEV) was not expressive (SPF 1.44, 1.36 and 0.68, respectively). Similarly, the combined emulsion of B. sericea leaves ethanolic extract (ET-NOV) and metoxycinamate octyl not showed synergistic action.

Brazilian Consensus on Photoprotection

Brazil is a country of continental dimensions with a large heterogeneity of climates and massive mixing of the population. Almost the entire national territory is located between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn, and the Earth axial tilt to the south certainly makes Brazil one of the countries of the world with greater extent of land in proximity to the sun. The Brazilian coastline, where most of its population lives, is more than 8,500 km long. Due to geographic characteristics and cultural trends, Brazilians are among the peoples with the highest annual exposure to the sun. Epidemiological data show a continuing increase in the incidence of non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers. Photoprotection can be understood as a set of measures aimed at reducing sun exposure and at preventing the development of acute and chronic actinic damage. Due to the peculiarities of Brazilian territory and culture, it would not be advisable to replicate the concepts of photoprotection from other developed countries, places with completely different climates and populations. Thus the Brazilian Society of Dermatology has developed the Brazilian Consensus on Photoprotection, the first official document on photoprotection developed in Brazil for Brazilians, with recommendations on matters involving photoprotection.

Development of O/W emulsions containing Euterpe oleracea extract and evaluation of photoprotective efficacy

Euterpe oleracea Mart. is a palm tree popularly known as açai, which is primarily found in northern Brazil. The açai's fruits contain anthocyanins, a class of polyphenols to which antioxidant properties have been attributed. The aim of this work was to develop O/W sunscreens emulsions containing açai glycolic extract (AGE) and to evaluate both their physical stability and photoprotective efficacy. Emulsions containing AGE and sunscreens were formulated using different types and concentrations of polymeric surfactant (acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and sodium polyacrylate). The influence of two rheology modifiers (polyacrylamide (and) C13-14/isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 and Carbomer) on the stability was also investigated. Physical stability was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated studies. Emulsions with 1.0% sodium polyacrylate were stable and exhibited non-newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and thixotropy. Photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and determination of Protection Factor of UVA (PF-UVA). When AGE was added to the sunscreen emulsion, no significant increase in the in vivo SPF value was observed. The emulsion containing AGE showed PF-UVA = 14.97, 1.69 of the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and a critical wavelength value of 378 nm, and may therefore be considered a sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection.

Euterpe oleracea Mart. é uma palmeira popularmente conhecida como açaí, encontrada no norte do Brasil. O fruto do açaí apresenta em sua composição antocianinas, uma classe de polifenóis à qual é atribuída propriedade antioxidante. Os objetivos desse trabalho foram desenvolver emulsões fotoprotetoras O/A contendo extrato glicólico de açaí (AGE), avaliar a estabilidade física e avaliar a eficácia fotoprotetora. Emulsões contendo AGE e filtros solares foram formuladas utilizando diferentes tipos e concentrações de tensoativo polimérico (acrilates/C 10-30 alquil acrilato polímero cruzado e polilacrilato sódico). A influência de dois modificadores reológicos (poliacrilamida (e) C13-14/isoparafina (e) Laureth-7 e Carbomer) na estabilidade foi avaliada. A estabilidade física das emulsões foi avaliada por meio de estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Emulsões com 1,0% poliacrilato sódico foram estáveis, exibiram comportamento não-newtoniano pseudoplástico e tixotrópico. A eficácia fotoprotetora foi avaliada pelo teste in vivo de Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) e pela determinação do Fator de Proteção UVA (FP-UVA). Quando adicionado o AGE na emulsão contendo filtros solares, não se observou aumento significativo no valor do FPS. A emulsão contendo o AGE apresentou FP-UVA=14,97, a razão FPS/FP-UVA = 1,69 e o comprimento de onda crítico igual a 378 nm, podendo ser considerado um protetor solar com proteção UVA e UVB.

Influência da adição de extrato de chá-verde sobre a estabilidade e efeito fotoprotetor de emulsões fps 15 / Influence of green tea extract on the stability and photoprotective effect of spf 15 emulsions

A inserção de produtos de origem vegetal em cosméticos podem melhorar as suas características. Nesse estudo, objetivou-se o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras contendo extrato glicólico de Camelia sinensis, a avaliação da atividade fotoprotetora in vitro após a adição do extrato vegetal, bem como a avaliação das características organolépticas, a determinação do valor de pH e comportamento reológico durante 30 dias de avaliação, quando as formulações foram armazenadas nas temperaturas de 25±2°C; 5±2 °C e 40±2 °C. Após 15 dias, alterações nas características organolépticas e reológicas foram observadas nas formulações armazenadas em altas temperaturas. Em 30 dias, as formulações mantidas a temperatura ambiente e em geladeira mantiveram as características organolépticas, apesar das alterações reológicas. Observou-se uma tendência a aumento do efeito fotoprotetor com a formulação contendo FPS15 e extrato glicólico de chá verde, entretanto, não se pode atribuir melhora na estabilidade física da emulsão pela adição do extrato.

The addition of plant material to a cosmetic may improve its characteristics. The stability profile allows the performance, safety, efficacy and consumer acceptance of an emulsion to be assessed. A stability study provides information about the behavior of the product over a given time interval, under various environmental conditions. The aims of this study were to prepare sunscreen formulations containing a glycolic extract of green tea (Camellia sinensis) and to assess the photoprotective activity in vitro, the organoleptic characteristics, pH and rheological behavior over a period of 30 days, during which the formulations were stored at temperatures of 25±2°C, 5±2°C and 40±2°C. After 15 days, changes in rheological characteristics were observed in the formulation stored at the higher temperatures. After 30 days, changes were observed at other temperatures. The addition of the extract significantly changed the rheological profile of the sunscreen formulations tested. An increase in the photoprotective effect was observed when the emulsion base was compared with the emulsion containing green tea extract. However, there was no evidence of an improvement of stability when the plant extract was added to the emulsions.

Determinación de la influencia de la altitud en el índice de protección natural (IPN) de la piel y el factor de protección solar requerido (SPF) / Determination of the influence of altitude on the contents of natural protection (IPN) skin and sun protection factor required (SPF)

Se evalúa la influencia de la altitud sobre el Índice de Protección Natural (IPN) y el Factor de Protección Solar requerido (SPF) comparando niños de Mucuchies, Mérida, Venezuela (3100 m.s.n.m.) y Palmarito, Mérida, Venezuela (5 m.s.n.m.), utilizando el equipo Sun Protection Diagnostic SP 37®. Según el análisis de los resultados a través de estadísticas descriptivas, se evidencia que el IPN y el SPF son variables dependientes de la altitud de la localidad en que se encuentran los niños, ya que en las localidades más altas los rayos solares inciden de forma más directa que en las más bajas.

It is evaluated the effect of altitude on Natural Protection Index (IPN) and the required Sun Protection Factor (SPF) comparing children Mucuchies, Merida, Venezuela (3100 m) and Palmarito, Merida, Venezuela (5 m) using Sun Protection Diagnostic SP37® equipment. According to the analysis of results through descriptive statistics, it appears that the IPN and the SPF are variable dependent on the altitude of the locality in which children are, as in the most high solar rays more directly than in the lowest.