Avaliação da rotulagem de cosméticos clareadores de pele comercializados em Juazeiro, Bahia, Brasil / Evaluation of the labeling of skin lightening cosmetics marketed in Juazeiro, Bahia, Brazil

A hiperpigmentação da pele, principalmente na região facial, resulta em um incômodo estético que afeta a qualidade de vida do indivíduo, levando a busca por produtos clareadores. Este estudo avaliou a conformidade dos rótulos de cosméticos comercializados como "produtos clareadores de pele", bem como a existência de substâncias clareadoras proibidas neste tipo de produto. Foi realizada uma análise transversal descritiva qualitativa no período de abril a maio de 2022, em busca por cosméticos comercializados em estabelecimentos farmacêuticos e lojas de produtos cosméticos localizadas no município de Juazeiro/BA. Foram selecionados 18 produtos e os desvios de rotulagem identificados com base na legislação utilizada vigente à época do estudo, foram: ausência de informações sobre advertências/restrições de uso e número de registro incompleto, equivalente a 16,7% (n = 3) das amostras. A hidroquinona, proibida nesse tipo de produto, foi encontrada em um cosmético (5,5%). Embora a maioria das amostras analisadas esteja em conformidade com as exigências legais, os resultados evidenciam descumprimentos, indicando a necessidade de uma fiscalização mais rigorosa a fim de evitar possíveis danos à saúde do usuário.

Skin hyperpigmentation, particularly in the facial region, can be an aesthetic nuisance that affects an individual's quality of life, leading them to seek out whitening products. This study evaluated the compliance of cosmetics labels marketed as "skin lightening products", and assessed the presence of whitening substances prohibited in this type of product. A qualitative, descriptive, cross-sectional analysis was conducted between April and May 2022 in Juazeiro, Bahia, Brazil, focusing on cosmetics sold in pharmaceutical establishments and cosmetic product stores. Eighteen products were selected, and labeling deviations identified based on the legislation in force at the time of the study. These included a lack of information on warnings/use restrictions and incomplete registration numbers, affecting 16.7% (n = 3) of the samples. Hydroquinone, prohibited in this type of product by the legislation, was detected in one cosmetic (5.5%). Although most of the analyzed samples comply with legal requirements, the observed non-compliance highlights the need for more stringent inspection to prevent potential harm to user's health.

Anti-Melanogenic Effect from Submerged Mycelial Cultures of Ganoderma weberianum

Compounds from Lingzhi has been demonstrated the ability for inhibiting tyrosinase (a key enzyme in melanogenesis) activity. In this study, we investigated the anti-melanogenic activity from the submerged mycelial culture of Ganoderma weberianum and elucidated the skin lightening mechanism by B16-F10 murine melanoma cells. From the cellular context, several fractionated mycelium samples exhibited anti-melanogenic activity by reducing more than 40% extracellular melanin content of B16-F10 melanoma cells. In particular, the fractionated chloroform extract (CF-F3) inhibited both secreted and intracellular melanin with the lowest dosage (25 ppm). Further analysis demonstrated that CF-F3 inhibited cellular tyrosinase activity without altering its protein expression. Taken together, our study has demonstrated that the chemical extracts from submerged mycelial culture of G. weberianum have the potential to serve as an alternative anti-melanogenic agent.

Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversies.

Glutathione is a low molecular weight thiol-tripeptide that plays a prominent role in maintaining intracellular redox balance. In addition to its remarkable antioxidant properties, the discovery of its antimelanogenic properties has led to its promotion as a skin-lightening agent. It is widely used for this indication in some ethnic populations. However, there is a dichotomy between evidence to support its effi cacy and safety. The hype around its depigmentary properties may be a marketing gimmick of pharma-cosmeceutical companies. This review focuses on the various aspects of glutathione: its metabolism, mechanism of action and the scientifi c evidence to evaluate its effi cacy as a systemic skin-lightening agent. Glutathione is present intracellularly in its reduced form and plays an important role in various physiological functions. Its skin-lightening effects result from direct as well as indirect inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme and switching from eumelanin to phaeomelanin production. It is available in oral, parenteral and topical forms. Although the use of intravenous glutathione injections is popular, there is no evidence to prove its effi cacy. In fact, the adverse effects caused by intravenous glutathione have led the Food and Drug Administration of Philippines to issue a public warning condemning its use for off-label indications such as skin lightening. Currently, there are three randomized controlled trials that support the skin-lightening effect and good safety profi le of topical and oral glutathione. However, key questions such as the duration of treatment, longevity of skin-lightening effect and maintenance protocols remain unanswered. More randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trials with larger sample size, long-term follow-up and well-defi ned effi cacy outcomes are warranted to establish the relevance of this molecule in disorders of hyperpigmentation and skin lightening.

Mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity and major fatty acid constituents of Amazonian native flora oils

In order to treat hyperpigmentation-related problems, there has been a global trend in developing cosmetics claiming to have skin-whitening properties, which act by inhibiting melanin biosynthesis. The objective of this work was to evaluate the in vitro mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity of five Amazonian native flora oils, and so to verify the possibility of their incorporation into cosmetic products. In addition, the fatty acid composition of the essential oils was determined by gas chromatography-flame ionisation detection in order to determine the main components of these oils. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the tested oils was found to be in the following order: açaí (IA50 = 66.08 µg mL-1) > tucumã > patauá > pracaxi > castanha do Brasil. This study suggests that açaí oil has great potential in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and other related disorders, due to its considerable tyrosinase inhibitory activity.

Com o intuito de se tratar problemas dermatológicos de hiperpigmentação, há uma tendência mundial no desenvolvimento de cosméticos que possuam propriedades despigmentantes, os quais agem inibindo a biossíntese de melanina. O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar in vitro a atividade de inibição da tirosinase de cogumelo de cinco óleos de plantas nativas da Amazônia e, desta forma, verificar a possibilidade de sua incorporação em produtos cosméticos. Ainda, a composição de ácidos graxos dos óleos foi determinada por cromatografia gasosa com detecção por ionização de chama, no intuito de determinar os principais componentes destes óleos. A atividade de inibição da tirosinase dos óleos testados foi encontrada na seguinte ordem: açaí (IA50 = 66,08 µg mL-1) > tucumã > patauá > pracaxi > castanha do Brasil. Este estudo sugere que o óleo de açaí possui grande potencial para o tratamento da hiperpigmentação cutânea e doenças correlatas, devido à sua considerável atividade de inibição da tirosinase.

Extracts from Amazonian plants have inhibitory activity against tyrosinase: an in vitro evaluation

Dermatological disorders related to pigmentation result in tenuous hyper or hypopigmentation Cosmetic and pharmaceutical products containing depigmenting substances are used in the treatment of patients who have high pigmentation disorders, such as melasma or chloasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, senile lentigo and ephelides. Skin lightening agents are not yet totally effective or safe and therefore intensive research for the discovery of new agents is continuous. Enzyme inhibitors involved in melanogenesis, such as tyrosinase, have been discovered in Asian countries, including those isolated from plant extracts. The Brazilian flora has the highest species diversity in the world, and the chemical, pharmacological and cosmetic potential for the discovery of new skin whitening agents is in proportion with this biodiversity. For these reasons, 25 aqueous and 24 organic extracts obtained from 19 plants native to the Amazon rain forest and to the Atlantic forest, belonging to 11 different families, were evaluated as tyrosinase inhibitors. Nine out of 49 extracts showed inhibitory activity in the screening process. The 50 percent inhibitory activity (IA50) was calculated, revealing that the most active extracts were the organic extracts from the leaves and stem of Ruprechtia sp. (IA50 33.76 mg.mL-1) and the organic extract from the aerial organs of Rapanea parviflora (IA50 64.19 mg.mL-1).

Problemas dermatológicos relacionados com a pigmentação resultam em hiperpigmentações ou hipopigmentação cutâneas. Produtos cosméticos e farmacêuticos com atividade despigmentante são utilizados para o tratamento de pacientes que apresentam distúrbios de hiperpigmentação, tais como melasma ou cloasma, hiperpigmentação pós-inflamatória, lentigem senil e efélides. Os despigmentantes atualmente utilizados não são totalmente eficazes ou seguros, razão pela qual há intensa pesquisa, principalmente em países asiáticos, com a finalidade de se obter novos agentes com esta ação, em especial inibidores de enzimas envolvidas na melanogênese, como a tirosinase. Considerando-se que algumas substâncias obtidas de plantas apresentam essa atividade, a flora brasileira constitui-se uma fonte potencial de obtenção de novos despigmentantes. Por essa razão, 25 extratos aquosos e 24 orgânicos obtidos de 19 plantas da Floresta Amazônica e Mata Atlântica, provenientes de 11 diferentes famílias, foram avaliados quanto à atividade de inibição da tirosinase. Do total de 49 extratos testados, 9 mostraram atividade. Os valores de concentração da atividade inibitória 50 por cento (AI 50 por cento), foram calculados e o mais ativo foi o extrato orgânico das folhas e caule de Ruprechtia sp. (AI50 33,76 mg.mL-1) seguido do extrato orgânico dos órgãos aéreos de Rapanea parviflora (AI50 64,19 mg.mL-1).