Research progress of natural collagen peptides and its skincare efficacy / 生物医学工程学杂志

Natural collagen peptides are collagen hydrolysates. Because of their unique physicochemical properties and excellent biological activities, collagen peptides have been a research hotspot of cosmetic raw materials development and skincare efficacy improvement. Combined with the needs of the skincare efficacy and the development trends of cosmetics, the extraction methods and their structural characteristics of natural collagen peptides were summarized in detail. The applications and its research progress in skincare efficacy of collagen peptides, such as moisturizing and anti-wrinkle, trophism and anti-aging, filling and skin regeneration were expressed with emphasis. Finally, the development and practical applications in cosmetics of natural collagen peptides were adequately prospected.

High rate of sensitization to Kathon CG, detected by patch tests in patients with suspected allergic contact dermatitis

Abstract Background: Kathon CG, a combination of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone, is widely used as preservative in cosmetics, as well in household cleaning products, industrial products such as paints and glues. It has emerged as an important sensitizing agent in allergic contact dermatitis. Objectives: This study evaluated the reactivity to this substance in patients subjected to patch tests at the Dermatology Institute in Bauru, São Paulo from 2015 to 2017 and its correlation with other preservatives, the professional activity and location of the lesions. Methods: The patients were submitted to standard series of epicutaneous tests, standardized by the Brazilian Group Studies on Contact Dermatitis. Results: Out the 267 patients tested, 192 presented positivity to at least one substance and 29 of the patients (15.10%) presented reaction to Kathon CG, with predominance of the female gender (n = 27); main professional activity associated with Kathon CG sensibilization was cleaning (17.24%), followed by aesthetic areas (13.79%) and health care (10.34%). The most prevalent sensitizations among the substances tested were nickel sulphate (56.3%), followed by cobalt chloride (23.4%), neomycin (18.2%), potassium dichromate (17.7%), thimerosal (14.5%), formaldehyde (13.2%), paraphenylenediamine (9.3%), and fragrance mix (8.3%). Study limitations: We do not have data from patients that were submitted to patch test a decade ago in order to confront to current data and establish whether or no sensitization to Kathon CG has increased. Conclusion: High positivity to Kathon CG corroborates the recent findings in the literature, suggesting more attention to concentration of this substance, used in cosmetics and products for domestic use.

Development of a Phytocosmetic Enriched with Pequi (Caryocar brasiliense Cambess) Oil

Abstract The pulp oil of Caryocar brasiliense Camb., better known as pequi, is used in the typical cuisine of the Brazilian Cerrado region. It is also used in folk medicine to combat several types of disease of the respiratory system and skin. However, since its exploration is purely extractive, the exhaustion of this plant is already foreseen. Thus, in order to establish the sustainable use of pequi and contribute to its maintenance, this study aimed to develop a phytocosmetic with antioxidant and photoprotective properties using the oil of this fruit. Initially, the cytotoxicity of the oil was evaluated in order to establish the safety of its use and its fatty acid composition. Then, from the cream enriched with the oil, it was evaluated the antioxidant and photoprotector potentials, quantified the total phenolic content and examined the quality of the formulation. Pequi oil showed high percentages of palmitic (52.11%) and oleic (44.57%) fatty acids and absence of cytotoxicity. The analysis of the cream revealed 168.8 mg of total phenols in gallic acid equivalent per 100 g of oil. The evaluation of antioxidant activity showed an EC50 of 2.921 mg/mL and a capacity of inhibiting the lipoperoxidation process higher than 100%. The obtained sun protection factor was 11.40 at the concentration of 6.25 mg/mL. The quality tests revealed small disturbances in the cream stability that can be solved by further research and improvement of the formulation. The pequi oil can be converted into a phytocosmetic of great commercial value.

Allergy to hypoallergenic nail polish: does this exist?

Abstract The main allergen responsible for contact dermatitis to nail polish is tosylamide-formaldehyde resin. The so-called hypoallergenic nail polishes are suposedly free of agents that commonly trigger reactions. The commercially available products and their compositions were studied. It was observed that most brands present at least one component capable of triggering the disease; therefore, allergic reaction may occur even when hypoallergenic polishes are used. There should be a proper investigation of the specific allergen through a patch test, because more than one component can cause an allergy, and we need to check the exact composition of each product.

Environmental Source of Arsenic Exposure / 예방의학회지

Arsenic is a ubiquitous, naturally occurring metalloid that may be a significant risk factor for cancer after exposure to contaminated drinking water, cigarettes, foods, industry, occupational environment, and air. Among the various routes of arsenic exposure, drinking water is the largest source of arsenic poisoning worldwide. Arsenic exposure from ingested foods usually comes from food crops grown in arsenic-contaminated soil and/or irrigated with arsenic-contaminated water. According to a recent World Health Organization report, arsenic from contaminated water can be quickly and easily absorbed and depending on its metabolic form, may adversely affect human health. Recently, the US Food and Drug Administration regulations for metals found in cosmetics to protect consumers against contaminations deemed deleterious to health; some cosmetics were found to contain a variety of chemicals including heavy metals, which are sometimes used as preservatives. Moreover, developing countries tend to have a growing number of industrial factories that unfortunately, harm the environment, especially in cities where industrial and vehicle emissions, as well as household activities, cause serious air pollution. Air is also an important source of arsenic exposure in areas with industrial activity. The presence of arsenic in airborne particulate matter is considered a risk for certain diseases. Taken together, various potential pathways of arsenic exposure seem to affect humans adversely, and future efforts to reduce arsenic exposure caused by environmental factors should be made.

Environmental Source of Arsenic Exposure / 예방의학회지

Arsenic is a ubiquitous, naturally occurring metalloid that may be a significant risk factor for cancer after exposure to contaminated drinking water, cigarettes, foods, industry, occupational environment, and air. Among the various routes of arsenic exposure, drinking water is the largest source of arsenic poisoning worldwide. Arsenic exposure from ingested foods usually comes from food crops grown in arsenic-contaminated soil and/or irrigated with arsenic-contaminated water. According to a recent World Health Organization report, arsenic from contaminated water can be quickly and easily absorbed and depending on its metabolic form, may adversely affect human health. Recently, the US Food and Drug Administration regulations for metals found in cosmetics to protect consumers against contaminations deemed deleterious to health; some cosmetics were found to contain a variety of chemicals including heavy metals, which are sometimes used as preservatives. Moreover, developing countries tend to have a growing number of industrial factories that unfortunately, harm the environment, especially in cities where industrial and vehicle emissions, as well as household activities, cause serious air pollution. Air is also an important source of arsenic exposure in areas with industrial activity. The presence of arsenic in airborne particulate matter is considered a risk for certain diseases. Taken together, various potential pathways of arsenic exposure seem to affect humans adversely, and future efforts to reduce arsenic exposure caused by environmental factors should be made.

Study of the frequency of allergens in cosmetics components in patients with suspected allergic contact dermatitis / Estudo da frequência dos alérgenos da bateria de cosméticos em pacientes com suspeita de dermatite alérgica de contato

BACKGROUND: Contact dermatitis to cosmetics is a common dermatosis, especially in adults and professionals who handle them. OBJECTIVE: The objective of this study was to evaluate the frequency of sensitization to cosmetics' components in patients with suspected allergic contact dermatitis and to identify the main sensitizers related to occupational contact dermatitis. METHODS: During the period of January 2008 to June 2010, all the patients with a presumptive diagnosis of allergic contact dermatitis to cosmetics were selected. The patients were submitted to the patch tests of cosmetics series, composed by ten substances. RESULTS: Among the 147 patients studied sensitization to cosmetics components occurred in 31,29% of the cases, 14 of those (19,18%) equally corresponding to BHT and triethanolamine substances, 13 (17,81%) to ammonium thioglycolate, 09 to sorbic acid (12,33%), 08 to tosilamida (10,95%), 06 to germall (8,22%). The other elements tested showed indices of 5% or less. A higher frequency of contact dermatitis to cosmetics was observed in women and the age most affected was concordant with the age range of greatest professional activity of the population. CONCLUSION: Allergic contact dermatitis was more frequently associated with Triethanolamine, BHT and ammonium thioglycolate, and the relation with occupational contact dermatitis was discreet.

FUNDAMENTOS: A dermatite de contato por cosméticos é uma dermatose relativamente comum, sobretudo em adultos e em profissionais que os manipulam. OBJETIVO: O objetivo do estudo foi avaliar a freqüência de positividade aos componentes de cosméticos, em pacientes com suspeita de dermatite alérgica; e identificar os principais sensibilizantes relacionados à dermatite de contato ocupacional. MÉTODOS: Durante o período de janeiro de 2008 a junho de 2010 foram selecionados todos os pacientes com hipótese de dermatite alérgica de contato a cosméticos. Os pacientes foram submetidos aos testes epicutâneos com bateria de cosméticos, composta por dez substâncias. RESULTADOS: Dos 147 pacientes estudados, a sensibilização aos componentes do cosmético ocorreu em 31,29% dos casos, sendo 14 (19,18%) corresponderam igualmente às substâncias BHT e trietanolamina, 13 (17,81%) ao tioglicolato de amônia, 09 ao ácido sórbico (12,33%), 08 tonsilamida (10,95%), 06 germal (8,22%). Os demais elementos testados proporcionaram índices iguais ou inferiores a 5%. Observou-se maior freqüência de dermatite de contato aos componentes da bateria de cosméticos em mulheres e a idade mais acometida foi concordante com a faixa etária de maior atividade profissional da população. CONCLUSÕES: Houve maior freqüência de dermatite alérgica de contato pelas substâncias trietanolamina, BHT e tioglicolato de amônia, demonstrando pouca associação à dermatite de contato ocupacional.

Effect of lipstick on composite resin color at different application times

OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of the contact of two lipsticks, one with common fixer and one with ultra fixer, on the color of a composite resin immediately, 30 min and 24 h after photoactivation. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Ninety specimens were prepared with a composite resin, Filtek-Z350. Specimens were polished and divided into 9 groups (n=10) according to time elapsed after photoactivation (A- immediately; B- 30 min; C- 24 h) and the contact with lipstick (UF- lipstick with ultra fixer; F- lipstick with common fixer). The control group was represented by specimens that did not have any contact with lipstick (C- without lipstick). Color measurements of the specimens were carried out using a spectrophotometer (Easyshade - CIE L* a* b* system). For UF and F groups, the baseline color of the specimens was measured immediately before pigmentation and the lipsticks were applied dry after 1 hour. The excess lipstick was removed with absorbent paper and final color checking was performed, including the control group. Differences between the final and baseline color measurements were calculated and data were analyzed statistically by the Kruskal-Wallis test at 5 percent. RESULTS: The means between the differences of color values were: AUF: 16.0; AF: 12.4; AC: 1.07; BUF: 9.51; BF: 8.3; BC: 0.91; CUF: 17.7; CF: 12.41; CC: 0.82. CONCLUSION: Groups where lipstick was applied showed greater staining than the control group at the three evaluation times. The lipstick with ultra fixer stained more than the lipstick with common fixer. Time elapsed between photoactivation and contact with lipstick had a similar influence on the groups that received lipstick application.

Mecanismos do envelhecimento cutâneo e o papel dos cosmecêuticos / Mechanisms of skin aging and the role of cosmeceuticals

A maioria dos mecanismos moleculares e celulares envolvidos no envelhecimento cutâneo intrínseco ou cronológico e extrínseco ou fotoenvelhecimento constitui objeto de muitos estudos de excelente qualidade e, portanto, são bem conhecidos. Contudo, existem aspectos ainda não completamente elucidados e até controversos. Por outro lado, a busca de tratamentos para prevenção, controle e reversão do envelhecimento, particularmente o fotoenvelhecimento, tem despertado muito interesse, nem sempre acompanhado do rigor científico necessário. Muitos ativos ditos antienvelhecimento são incorporados aos chamados cosmecêuticos que constituem uma classe de produtos tópicos intermediários entre os cosméticos e os medicamentos ou drogas. Como esses produtos são registrados como cosméticos, não há uma exigência rigorosa em relação aos estudos clínicos de eficácia e segurança, ou seja, são poucos os estudos controlados e randomizados. Em geral, eles não causam eventos adversos sérios, já que são utilizadas concentrações baixas dos ativos, muito aquém das que demonstram eficácia nos estudos pré-clínicos. Muitos, inclusive, não têm ação que comprovadamente possa interferir em qualquer dos mecanismos conhecidos do envelhecimento cutâneo. Não há como excluir a possibilidade de que tenham alguma utilidade, nem tampouco afirmar que possam produzir os resultados prometidos pela indústria cosmecêutica. Depende do bom senso dos dermatologistas decidir quando e qual produto indicar, assumindo com honestidade o real benefício esperado.Este artigo apresenta uma revisão dos mecanismos conhecidos do envelhecimento cutâneo e das principais substâncias ativas dos cosmecêuticos colocados no mercado nos últimos anos.

El Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadensis Miller) como componente de alimentos funcionales / Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadensis Miller) as a component of functional foods

Debido a la preocupación e interés actual de la población por las condiciones de salud y calidad de vida, es que ha aumentado la demanda de productos naturales, lo cual hace que las industrias farmacéuticas y de los alimentos centren sus esfuerzos en investigaciones relacionadas con su utilización. Una de las materias primas de gran demanda, tanto en el mercado externo como en el nacional, es el Aloe vera, vegetal del cual se pueden obtener productos con fines cosmetológicos, farmacéuticos y alimenticios. Desde el punto de vista de la nutrición humana, los científicos han identificado más de 75 compuestos en el Aloe vera; principalmente vitaminas, minerales, enzimas y aminoácidos, además de otras sustancias de interés para nuestro organismo con acción emoliente, cicatrizante, coagulante, hidratante, antialérgica, desinfectante, antiinflamatoria, astringente, colerética y laxante. Por lo tanto, esta planta puede aportar componentes nutricionales como materia prima para la elaboración de alimentos funcionales, considerados en la actualidad como los alimentos del futuro. Así, el Aloe vera puede convertirse en una excelente fuente de productos químicos nutricionales para el desarrollo y comercialización de nuevos productos para la industria de alimentos chilena.

Because of the current population concern and interest about health conditions and life quality, the demand for natural products has increased, inducing the pharmaceutical and food industries to focus its efforts in researches related to their use. One of the most demanding raw materials both in foreign and national markets is Aloe Vera, a vegetable which can be obtained for cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food purposes. From the point of view of human nutrition, scientists have identified more than 75 components in Aloe Vera, mainly vitamins, minerals, enzymes and amino acids, besides other substances of interest to our organism with emollient, healing, clotting, moisturizing, antiallergenic, antiseptic, antinflammatory, astringent, choleretic and laxative action. Thus this plant can provide nutritional components as raw material to elaborate functional foods, considered as future food nowadays. Aloe vera can become an excellent source of chemical nutritional products for the development of new products for the Chilean food industry.

Desenvolvimento de método de análise e estudo de estabilidade do ácido kójico associado ou não ao ácido glicólico em formulações tópicas / Development of analytical methods and the stability study of kojic acid associated or not glycolic acid in topics formulations

O desenvolvimento de métodos analíticos e o estudo de estabilidade de formulações cosméticas e farmacêuticas fazem parte do processo de garantia de qualidade, o qual tem por objetivo assegurar a eficácia e segurança no uso de tais produtos pelo consumidor. O ácido kójico é um agente despigmentante que pode estar associado ao ácido glicólico, um agente esfoliante, a fim de ter sua ação potencializada. O objetivo do presente trabalho foi o desenvolvimnto de um método analítico para a determinação do ácido kójico a 1 porcento associado ou não ao ácido glicólico a 5 por cento em formulações tópicas na forma creme e gel, a base de excipientes comumente utilizados em farmácias de manipulação, e a realização de um estudo acelereado para avaliar a estabilidade das mesmas...

The development of analytical methods and the stability study of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals are part of the quality assurance, which has for objective to guarantee the effectiveness and security in the use of such products for the consumer. Kojic acid is a depigmentant agent that can be used in association with glycolic acid, an exfoliant agent, in order to have its action maximized. The aim of this work was the development of an analytical method to assay kojic acid 1% associated or not with 5% glycolic acid in cream and gel form, based on excipients normally used in compounding formulations, and carried out an accelerated study to evaluate its stability. To determine kojic acid in such formulations it was employed an UV first-derivative spectrophotometric method (UVD), with "zero crossing" set in 256,8 nm, where the excipients interference could be annulled. To assay both acids in association it was validated a reversed phase HPLC method with ion pairing, employed a Synergi Hidro® C18 column, mobile phase NH4H2PO4/H3PO4 buffer 30 mmol -1 pH 3,0 plus TBA (tetrabutylammonium bromide) 2 mM : acetonitrila (95:5), flow rate of 0,7 mL/min and detector PDA set in 220 nm. The samples were easily extracted and the run time was 12 min. The same experimental conditions were used to the development of a HPLC method in order to determine the kojic acid isolated in cream and gel formulations. The UVD e HPLC methods were not statistically different in terms of accuracy and precision (p = 95%). The samples submitted to the accelerated stability study, for 90 days, were stored at 40±2ºC and light 25±2ºC. All samples were also stored at room temperature protected from light. Appearance, pH, rheology and amount of kojic and glycolic acids (by HPLC) were evaluated. At the end of the study, all the samples showed physical stability, but presented decline in kojic acid above 5% at 40±2ºC. Samples stored at not accelerated conditions preserved 90% of kojic acid concentration. Therefore, a 90 days expiration date may be considered for formulations with similar composition and packing, when stored at room temperature and protected from light.

Microbial Contamination and Preservative Capacity of some Brands of Cosmetic Creams

PURPOSE: Cosmetic and topical products need not be sterile but may contain low levels of microbial load during use. This study was conducted to determine and compare the level and type of microbial contaminants in commercial cosmetic products sold in the market and a laboratory prepared aqueous cream and their preservative capacities while in use. METHODS: Ten brands of commercially available cosmetic creams and lotions were randomly purchased from the open markets in Benin City. Aqueous Cream was also prepared. Their bacterial and fungal loads as well as types were evaluated. Preservative capacity was evaluated by challenging the creams and lotions with washed and characterized isolates of Staph. aureus and viable counting was performed by the surface viable method. The prepared aqueous cream was similarly challenged with the test organism. RESULTS: All the products were contaminated to varying degrees. Staphylococci and other gram-positive cocci were the most preponderant; gram-negative isolates were hardly found. Fungal contaminants consisted largely of Asp. fumigatus; Penicillium and Microsporium species. Challenge test (re-infection) with Staph. aureus revealed the commercial products as having low capacity for suppressing bacterial proliferation such as may be encountered during in -use contamination. CONCLUSION: Commercial cosmetic creams and lotions evaluated did not generally meet the standards for microbial limits as specified in official monographs. Such products can adversely affect health status of consumers as well as the stability profiles of the products

Acneiform Eruptions: a Hazard of beauty creams

Adolescent and post adolescent females visit Dermatologist frequently with white comedones and inflamed papules, situated mainly on cheeks and forehead. Most of these patients admit to development of these lesions after the use of a beauty cream, applied to improve their complexion. The objective of this study was to establish the incidence of skin lesions following the use of beauty creams, duration of use, frequency of application, distribution of lesions, types of lesions, and the source/advice about the use of beauty creams. This is a prospective study which lasted four months and was conducted in the Dermatology OPD of Abbasi Shaheed Hospital [Karachi Medical and Dental College]. The subjects underwent a thorough clinical history and dermatological examination regarding type and distribution of lesions. They were asked to identify the products [beauty creams and the steroid preparation] used. Those who could not identify the preparations were excluded from the study. All those patients who had any sort of lesions on the face prior to the use of the beauty cream were also excluded. Fifty patients were enrolled in the study which were divided into two groups group- A which used beauty cream alone [15 patients], and group -B which used beauty cream with an admixture of a steroid [35 patients]. Acneiform eruptions were commonly seen in both groups 30% in group A and 70% in group B. The average duration of application was 3.7 months in group A [range 1-6 months] and 2 months in groups B [range 1-4months]. Most subjects used single night time application. The predominant lesions were white comedones [100% in both groups] and inflammed papules [100% in group B and 53.3% in group A]. Macular erythema and telangiectasia were [34.2% and 28.5% in-group B] and [26.6% and 0% in-group A]. The cheeks and forehead were universally involved in all patients [100%] and chin in [17% group B and 26% in-group A]. Majorities of the subjects belong to the middle and low-income families. Acneiform eruption developed in 30% of subjects using beauty creams alone and 70% of subjects who mixed steroids in their beauty cream

Avaliaçäo da utilizaçäo de vegetais em produtos cosméticos na cidade de Florianópolis / Assement of the plants utilization in cosmetic products in Florianopolis

Este trabalho foi realizado com o objetivo de relacionar as plantas mais comumente encontradas em produtos cosméticos, e constatar sua utilizaçäo através de uma revisäo bibliográfica, com um estudo sobre seus principais constituintes, efeitos farmacológicos, uso(s) cosméticos(s),etc. Foram relacionadas 65 diferentes espécies vegetais, dentre os 141 produtos cosméticos encontrados no comércio de Florianópolis. Neste trabalho estäo sendo destacadas 10 (dez) espécies, tendo em vista sua maior utilizaçäo.