Avaliação das propriedades das fibras capilares tratadas com alisante ácido com diferentes valores de pH / Evaluation of hair fibers properties treated with acid straightener at different pH values

Os produtos para alisamento das fibras capilares são amplamente utilizados no Brasil principalmente, pelo público feminino. Porém, estes procedimentos podem causar danos ao cabelo do usuário e, também, para o profissional que está atuando. Os alisantes químicos podem ser divididos em dois grupos: alcalinos e ácidos. Os primeiros (tioglicolato de amônio e os hidróxidos de sódio ou guanidina) apresentam valor de pH elevado (superior a 9,0) e alisam por meio da quebra e reorganização das pontes de dissulfeto (S-S) presentes na queratina, proteína estrutural da fibra capilar. Os alisantes ácidos como o formaldeído, ácido glioxílico e seus associados, possuem pH baixo (≥ 2,0) e causam uma reorganização no interior da fibra e geralmente leva a formação de um filme na superfície do fio. O ácido glioxílico associado à carbocisteína e aminoácidos (nomenclatura INCI -International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient apresentada entre parênteses) (Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine (and) Glyoxyloyl Keratin Aminoacids (and) Water) é o único ingrediente permitido ao uso como alisante ácido até o momento. O objetivo deste trabalho foi estudar o efeito deste alisante ácido incorporado em uma emulsão óleo e água (O/A) com valores de pH 1,0 e 2,0 (com reaplicações); e o impacto que podem causar nas propriedades mecânicas e químicas da fibra capilar, como força de ruptura, coloração, elasticidade e teor de triptofano da fibra capilar. E também o efeito da radiação ultravioleta nos fios alisados. Nos testes realizados observou-se que as mechas tratadas com a emulsão a pH 1,0 obtiveram melhor resultado de alinhamento das cutículas e capacidade alisante da fibra, com penteabilidade superior ao cabelo virgem (59,4 %), enquanto as mechas com a formulação pH 2,0 foi apenas 33,0%. Entretanto, a força de tração para a ruptura do fio foi inferior, diminuindo em 16,0% (pH 1,0) e 9,0 % (pH 2,0). Quanto a variação da coloração, a variação do tom de cor foi mais exacerbada para as mechas tratadas com a formulação em pH 1,0. O teor de triptofano foi inferior nas mechas alisadas com a formulação pH 1,0. Para o teste de DSC e Raman, ambas as mechas tratadas apresentaram modificações nas suas estruturas. As fibras alisadas e expostas à radiação UV apresentaram danos maiores nas cutículas, e certa proteção na degradação de proteínas em relação aquelas sem tratamento e irradiadas ao UV. Considerando as reaplicações do produto alisante ácido, quanto maior o número de aplicações, mais alinhadas e seladas tornaram se as fibras, mas mais rígida e suscetível à quebra ficaram. Devemos considerar a importância do valor do pH da formulação no impacto do alisamento e dano da fibra capilar

Hair straightening products are widely used in Brazil by the female public. However, these procedures can cause damage to the hair shaft and to professional´s and client´s health. Chemical straighteners can be divided into two groups: alkaline and acid. Alkaline straighteners has a very high pH value (> 9.0) and the straightening process is due to the break followed by reorganization of the disulfide bridges (S-S) present in the keratin, a structural protein of the hair shaft. Some examples of alkaline straighteners are ammonium thioglycolate and sodium or guanidine hydroxides. On the other hand, acid straighteners like formaldehyde, glyoxylic acid, and their associated, present a low pH value (≥ 2.0), which causes a rearranging within the fiber, and sometimes creates a film on the surface of the hair. Nowadays, the glyoxylic acid associated with carbocysteine and amino acids (INCI - International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient nomenclature presented in parentheses) (Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine (and) Glyoxyloyl Keratin Aminoacids (and) Water) is the only acid straightener permitted. Therefore, the objective of this work is to study the effect of this acid straightener, incorporated into oil in water (o/w) base emulsions at two different pH values 1.0 and 2.0 ( with reapplication) on the mechanical and physicochemical properties of the hair shaft. Also, the impact of UV radiation in straightened tresses. In the experiments conducted, it was possible to observe that tresses treated with the emulsion at pH 1.0 had a better result on the alignment and the straightening capacity, improving the combing test (59.4%/), while the tresses with the formulation at pH 2.0, 33.0%. However, the tensile strength, to pH 1.0 decreased by 16.0% and to pH 2.0 only 9.0%. As for color, the difference when compared with virgin hair it was major at pH 1.0. The tryptophan content also was lower in tresses treated at pH 1, 0. For the DSC and Raman analyzes all the treated tresses presented modifications in their structure. Straightened strands exposed to radiation had major damage in the cuticles, and some protection in proteins degradation compared to untreated tresses exposed to radiation. Considering the reapplications of the straightening product, as higher the number of applications more aligned and sealed it becomes, however the hair fiber becomes stiffer and susceptible to breakage. Thats why we should consider the importance of the pH value in the product, and the impact of straightening and damage of the hai fiber

Efficacy of a Hair Tonic Containing Human Umbilical Cord Blood Mesenchymal Stem Cell-derived Conditioned Media in Patients with Androgenetic Alopecia / 대한피부과학회지

BACKGROUND: The development of a safe and convenient agent that can promote hair growth in patients with androgenetic alopecia remains challenging. OBJECTIVE: This study was designed to investigate the efficacy of a newly developed hair tonic containing a human umbilical cord blood mesenchymal stem cell (hUCB-MSC)-derived conditioned medium in promoting hair growth. METHODS: This double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study investigated the efficacy of a hair tonic containing an hUCB-MSC-derived conditioned medium in 30 patients with patterned hair loss. Treatment efficacy was determined using phototrichograms to evaluate the density, diameter, and hair growth rate at baseline levels and after 4, 8, and 16 weeks of treatment. RESULTS: The hair density in the group treated with the hair tonic significantly increased from 125.2 to 134.6 hairs/cm2 (p<0.05). In this same group, the thickness of hair also increased from 0.083 to 0.110 mm (p<0.05). Additionally, the hair growth rate increased from 0.285 to 0.338 mm/day (p<0.05). No severe adverse reactions were reported. CONCLUSION: A hair tonic containing an hUCB-MSC-derived conditioned medium could be a new effective alternative to treat patients with androgenetic alopecia.

Influence of different cosmetic vehicles in mechanical and physical properties of hair treated with oxidative hair dyes

ABSTRACT Hair care products play a significant role in the cosmetic market and aim at improving hair brightness, breakage resistance, and color change. In this study, we analyzed the possibility of the formulation of oxidative dyes in different vehicles impacting the hair's both mechanical and physical properties. Light brown and light blond dyes were prepared using eight different vehicles. Among these, four vehicles were emulsifying agents and four gelling agents. Each formulation was applied to two types of virgin Caucasian hair (light blond and dark brown). Physical, chemical, and organoleptic properties of each formulation were assessed, as well as changes in hair parameters after oxidative dyeing, such as staining intensity, brightness, and breaking strength. The parameters of color and brightness differed in some formulations, but the hair type also responded differently. Brightness parameter was increased in dark brown hair colored with both dyes, whereas light blond hair showed the opposite result. Regarding the breaking strength, there were no significant differences between the two kinds of tresses. Cosmetic formulations should adjust the consumer desired effects (e.g. color change) in order to present minimal drawbacks (e.g. decrease of hair brightness and strength). Thus, the study of different vehicles is important when establishing the best oxidative dye formulation.

Correlation between rheological properties and capillary fixation for modelling creams

The Brazilian male beauty market occupies the second place in world consumption of cosmetics. Among the numerous products consumed by such audience is the capillary fixation mask, which is mainly composed by fixatives. These additives act on stabilizing the cosmetic emulsion, protecting the hair against moisture and also increasing the intensity of hair fixation. In this work, three formulations for modelling creams were prepared by different concentrations of the fixatives StylezeTM W20 and PVP K90 and their properties characterized by physicochemical, rheological and sensory analysis. The capillary masks produced were stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions with uniform droplets of 2.05-2.82 µm sizes and pseudoplastic thixotropic behavior (0.19 < n < 0.26). It was possible to correlate the increased concentration of PVP K90 to a greater thixotropy and an improved yarn fixation, despite the worsening in the spreadability of the formulations. These results suggest properly conducted rheological measurements can contribute to the prediction of the emulsion's sensory properties, which can save time and funds on the development of new cosmetics

Hair straighteners: an approach based on science and consumer profile

Technological progress has allowed women to change their natural hair configuration according to their will. This type of treatment is very popular around the world, even involving the use of prohibited chemicals, such as formaldehyde. Studies of hair characterization, straighteners and toxic evaluation are available in the literature, although few studies have evaluated the consumer profile or the current legislation of Brazil and the European Union (EU) and its influence on the consumption of hair straighteners. Previous studies from our research group have shown that hair care is essential for the quality of life and well-being of women. Within this context, the present study aimed to evaluate the profile of Brazilian hair straightener consumers, as well as the legislation of Brazil and the EU and its influence on the use of these products. The consumer profile was evaluated by applying questionnaires and the legislation was examined using documental and bibliographic exploratory research. The results provided a full understanding of the current legislation of Brazil and its similarities to EU legislation. It was observed that over 50% of Brazilians currently use or have previously used hair straightener products, even persons who do not have curly hair, suggesting that straight hair is more attractive for today's society. Although the study participants consider the current legislation to be important, over 40% do not know the active ingredients present in the hair straightener they use. Finally, the legislation is not considered in terms of the daily hair treatment routine, with the esthetic result being more important to the consumer

Occupational skin disorders in a subset of Nigerian hairdressers

Introduction: hairdressing is associated with a wide range of disorders. This is particularly true in the African hairdresser, who is saddled with the responsibility of 'taming' the rather difficult-to-manage African hair, and is thus exposed to a wide range of chemical, biological and physical materials in the hair grooming process. We therefore sought to determine the prevalence and pattern of occupational skin disorders among hairdressers in Ibadan, one of the oldest and largest cities in Nigeria.Methods: this was a cross sectional study of hairdressers conducted in 2013 in Ibadan, Nigeria. Hairdressers and their apprentices were interviewed using a structured questionnaire, following which a thorough physical examination was performed to identify any skin disorder.Results: a total of 226 hairstylists were recruited. The prevalence of occupational skin disorders in the study was 68.13%. The prevalence of specific skin disorders was 32.74% for nail disorders; 28.75% for traumatic skin disorders; and 2.64% for hand dermatitis.Conclusion: there is a high prevalence of occupational skin disorders among hairdressers, and this may have personal and public health implications

Avaliação qualitativa e quantitativa de formaldeído em produtos cosméticos para alisamento capilar / Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of formaldehyde in cosmetic products for hair straightening

O formaldeído, comercializado em solução aquosa a 37% (p/p), é um líquido incolor com odor forte e irritante. A presença deste agente cancerígeno em cremes cosméticos resulta em graves riscos à saúde tais como irritação, queimaduras na pele, ferimentos nas vias respiratórias e danos irreversíveis aos olhos e cabelos provocados pela inalação e contato com o produto. Seu uso foi permitido em concentração ≤ 0,2% (p/p) como conservante pela Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária (ANVISA; Brasil, 2001) até junho de 2014, e a substância era adicionada a produtos cosméticos utilizados em escovas progressivas com a finalidade de alisar os cabelos. Diante dos riscos verificados com a utilização da substância, objetivou-se determinar qualitativa e quantitativamente, a incidência deste aldeído em produtos para alisamento capilar, a fim de estimar a concentração que os profissionais e usuários estão expostos, para garantir sua segurança. Observouse que 84,6% das amostras analisadas apresentaram alguma irregularidade, sendo que 61,5% das amostras analisadas apresentaram maior quantidade de formaldeído do que era permitido pela legislação (Brasil, 2001) como conservante e 53,8% apresentou mais de 10 vezes o percentual permitido, concentração irritante para a população em geral. Tendo em vista a gravidade dos dados apresentados, é necessária uma rígida fiscalização da qualidade dos alisantes capilares e estratégias de conscientização sobre riscos à saúde do contato com a substância.

Formaldehyde marketed in a 37% (w/w) aqueous solution is a colorless liquid with a strong irritating odor. The presence of this carcinogen in cosmetics creams results in serious health risks, such as irritation, skin burns, airway injury and irreversible damage to the eyes and hair caused by inhalation and contact with the product. Although its use was allowed up to a concentration of 0.2% (w/w) as a preservative by Brazilian Health Surveillance Agency (ANVISA; Brazil, 2001) until June 2014, the substance is added to cosmetic products used in progressive brushes in order to straighten hair. Given the risks seen with the use of the substance, the objective was to determine qualitatively and quantitatively this aldehyde in products for hair straightening in order to estimate the concentration that professionals involved and users are exposed to ensure their safety. It was observed that 84.6% of the samples showed some irregularity, being that 61.5% of the samples have a higher amount of formaldehyde than allowed by law (Brazil, 2001) as preservative and 53.8% had more than 10 times the allowable percentage, irritating concentration for the general population. Considering the severity of the data presented, it is need a strict quality supervision hair straightening products and strategies to increase awareness about health risks from contact with the substance.

Black women’s hair: the main scalp dermatoses and aesthetic practices in women of African ethnicity

Abstract:Afro-ethnic hair is different from Caucasian and Asian hair and has unique features. Ethnic hair is more prone to certain conditions or diseases. Such diseases are not only related to the fragile inner structure of the hair, but also to the cultural habits of hairstyles that often exert traction forces upon the pilosebaceous follicle. Women with African hair subject their hair to chemical treatments such as hair straightening and relaxing, and thus modify the structure of their hair shaft, making it more susceptible to damage. For this reason, hair complaints are common among black women and represent a diagnostic challenge to the dermatologist, requiring a thorough clinical examination of the hair and scalp, and a detailed medical history of the patient. The purpose of this review is to warn of the potential side effects and sequelae related to hairstyles and hair treatments used by black women, and to highlight the major diseases that affect this ethnicity.

Delineamento de formulações cosméticas com óleo essencial de Lippia gracilis Schum (Alecrim-de- Tabuleiro) de origem amazônica / Outline of cosmetic formulations with essential oil Lippia gracilis Schum (Alecrim-de-Tabuleiro) of the amazon

Diversos cosméticos têm sido produzidos para atender a crescente demanda de mercado. Para que estes produtos possuam boa aceitação são necessárias que os mesmos apresentem adequadas características físicoquímicas e sensoriais, bem como eficácia, segurança e qualidade. Esse trabalho visou o desenvolvimento e avaliação da estabilidade de formulações biocosméticas a partir da incorporação dos óleos essenciais da espécie Lippia gracilis Schum em formulações cosméticas para cabelo, por meio de estudos de pré-formulação e testes de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada. Foram realizados testes físico-químicos para avaliação dos parâmetros: pH, viscosidade aparente, características sensoriais, espuma e densidade. Durante os estudos de estabilidade preliminar e acelerada, foi observado que as temperaturas: Refrigerador (TG) (5,0 ± 0,5ºC) e Estufa (TE) (45,0 ± 0,5ºC) sofreram alterações de pH, viscosidade e das características sensoriais. Ao final do estudo, mantiveram as características iniciais, apenas as formulações mantidas em temperatura ambiente. Concluiu-se que a formulação de xampu não possui estabilidade quando exposta a temperaturas abaixo de 5ºC e acima de 45ºC. A formulação de condicionador, além de ser instável em temperaturas extremas, apresentou também alterações após 30 dias (T2) em temperatura ambiente (TA) (24,0 ± 2,0ºC).(AU)

Several cosmetics have been produced to meet the growing market demand. For these products have good acceptance is necessary that they show suitable physico-chemical and organoleptic characteristics, as well as efficacy, safety and quality. This research aimed at the development and evaluation of the stability of formulations biocosmetics from the incorporation of the essential oils of the species Lippia gracilis Schum in shampoo and conditioner through preliminary stability testing and accelerated. Physico-chemical tests for evaluation of the parameters were performed: pH, viscosity, sensory characteristics, lather and density. During the stability studies and preliminary accelerated, it was observed that the formulations subjected to extreme temperatures, such as: Refrigerator (TG) (5.0 ± 0.5 ° C) and hot air oven (TE) (45.0 ± 0.5 ° C), undergone changes in pH, viscosity and sensory characteristics. At the end of the study maintained the initial characteristics, only formulations maintained at room temperature. It was concluded that the shampoo formulation lacks stability when exposed to temperatures below 5 ° C and above 45 ° C. And the conditioner formulation in addition to being unstable in extreme temperatures, also showed changes after 30 days (T2) at room temperature (RT) (24.0 ± 2.0 ° C).(AU)

Avaliação in vitro do efeito de diferentes processos de alisamento químico/térmico na fibra capilar / In vitro evaluation of the straightening effect by different chemical/thermal processes in the hair fiber

A aparência dos cabelos é de fundamental importância na sociedade atual. Estando em moda, cabelos mais lisos e com menos volume, os consumidores que antes os alisavam com produtos químicos e força mecânica, passaram a utilizar um tratamento térmico, além do secador de cabelos: as piastras ("chapinhas") que atuam em valores de temperatura ao redor de 230°C. Esse procedimento ocasiona além dos danos mecânicos e químicos também dano térmico, tornando os cabelos ainda mais fragilizados. O escopo deste estudo foi avaliar o dano na fibra capilar, de amostras não tratadas e nas que receberam aplicação de alisantes/relaxantes tradicionais e alternativos. O estudo foi dividido em cinco capítulos que avaliam: aplicação dos alisantes/relaxantes com ingredientes ativos distintos; danos mecânicos, perda Protéica; análise térmica e microscopia eletrônica de varredura. As amostras de cabelo utilizadas em todos os estudos foram tratadas como descrito no primeiro capítulo. Foram aplicados produtos comerciais contendo os seguintes ingredientes ativos: Hidróxido de Sódio, Tioglicolato de Amônio, Hidróxido de Guanidina (reação de hidróxido de cálcio com carbonato de guanidina), formaldeído e ácido glioxílico isolado e em combinação com carbocisteína. O uso de formaldeído e ácido glioxilico em formulações de alisantes/relaxantes está proibido pela Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária. Todos os produtos aplicados alisaram os cabelos; os procedimentos que utilizaram a piastra tornaram os fios mais lisos. Os alisantes/relaxantes à base de ácido glioxilico e formaldeído reduziram de forma expressiva a tensão de ruptura dos cabelos tornando-os mais frágeis. A maior perda protéica foi observada na amostra tratada com carbocisteína (1,74 mg/g cabelo). Nos estudos de análise térmica, na fase de desidratação a amostra tratada com carbocisteína apresentou maior perda de massa (15,17%); na fase de denaturação da proteína, a tratada com hidróxido de sódio (51,06%); e na fase de eliminação do material carbonáceo, todas as amostras apresentaram perda de massa maior que a amostra não tratada; as menores temperaturas de pico foram as das amostras sem tratamento alisante (630°C) e ácido glioxílico (640°C). Observando-se as imagens de microscopia eletrônica nota-se modificação nas bordas das cutículas das amostras indicando que sofreram agressão; o hidróxido de guanidina deixou adicionalmente resíduo; as amostras tratadas com ácido glioxílico e formaldeído apresentaram a formação de filme superficial como um "envelopamento" da fibra. Os resultados sugerem que não há predominância de um procedimento mais danoso que os demais; porém os que utilizaram a piastra (alisamentos/relaxamento ácidos) acentuaram os danos

The appearance of the hair is of fundamental importance in today's society. Being in fashion, hair straight and with less volume, consumers that before straighted hair with chemicals products and mechanical strength began to use a heat treatment, in addition to hair dryers: the hot plates ("chapinhas") acting on temperature values around 230°C. This procedure causes not only mechanical and chemical damage but also thermal one, making the hair more fragile. The scope of this study was to evaluate the damage to the hair fiber, in untreated samples and these receiving straighteners/relaxers application of traditional and alternative products.The study was divided into five chapters that evaluated: application of straighteners/relaxers with different active ingredients; mechanical damage, protein loss; thermal analysis and scanning electron microscopy. The hair samples used in all studies were treated as described in the chapter one. Commercial products containing the following active ingredients were used: Sodium Hydroxide, Ammonium Thioglycolate, Guanidine Hydroxide (calcium hydroxide reaction with guanidine carbonate), Formaldehyde and Glyoxylic Acid alone and in combination with Carbocysteine. The use of Formaldehyde andGlyoxylicAcid in straightening/relaxing formulations are prohibited by the National Agency for Sanitary Vigilance. All applied products, straight the hair samples; the procedures that used the hot plates become the hair more straight. The straightening/relaxing based on Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde reduced significantly the hair break point making them more fragile. Most protein loss was observed in the sample treated with Carbocysteine (1.74mg/g hair).In the thermal analysis studies at the dewatering stage, Carbocystein treated samples showed greater weight loss(15.17%), at the protein denaturation stage this treated with Sodium Hydroxide (51.06%) and in the carbonaceous material elimination phase all samples showed mass loss greater than the untreated sample;. The lower peak temperatures were observed in the samples without treatment (630°C) and with Glyoxylic Acid (640°C). Observing the images of electron microscopy is noted the change in the cuticle aspect of the samples showing that the edges were damaged, Guanidine Hydroxide, left further residue: the samples treated with Glyoxylic Acid and Formaldehyde showed the formation of surface film as an "enveloping" fiber. The results suggest that there is not a predominance of a more harmful treatment than other, but those using hot plates(straightening/relaxing acids) emphasize the damage

Cosmetovigilância em alisantes capilares: Determinação do teor de formaldeído por espectrofotometria e avaliação do rótulo / Cosmetovigilance in hair straighteners: Determination of formaldehyde content by spectrophotometry and label evaluation

O objetivo do trabalho foi identificar e quantificar o formaldeído presente em formulações comerciais de alisamento capilar, sendo abordada a aplicação da cosmetovigilância a partir de ensaios organolépticos/ físico-químicos e análise dos rótulos. Oito formulações comerciais de marcas distintas foram submetidas à análise por espectrofotometria, baseado na reação entre formaldeído e ácido cromotrópico na presença de sulfato de magnésio, produzindo um complexo que permite identificar e quantificar a presença da substância ativa. As amostras A1, A3, A5 e A8 apresentaram uma concentração de formaldeído variando de 1,5 a 3,83% (p/v), o que corresponde a concentrações 7,5; 16,45; 7,9 e 19,15 vezes acima do permitido pela ANVISA, apresentando odor forte característico dessa substância ativa. Destas amostras, A3 e A5 não indicaram a presença de formaldeído no rótulo, além de ignorarem as informações de advertência e restrições de uso. Foi verificado ainda, a ausência do número de registro concedido pela ANVISA para a amostra A5, o que pode ser indício de produto clandestino. Quanto às características organolépticas e físico-químicas somente a amostra A2 apresentou resultados de viscosidade e centrifugação diferentes das demais. Diante desses resultados, conclui-se que 50% dos produtos analisados foram reprovados devido à presença de formaldeído fora da concentração permitida, ficando evidente a importância da implantação do sistema de cosmetovigilância para garantir a qualidade final dos produtos cosméticos, tendo em vista principalmente, a segurança e eficácia desses produtos.(AU)

This study aimed to identify and quantify the formaldehyde present in commercial formulations of hair straightening, being addressed the application of cosmetovigilance from organoleptic/physical- chemical tests and analysis of labels. Eight commercial formulations of different brands were analyzed by spectrophotometry, based on the reaction between formaldehyde and chromotropic acid in the presence of magnesium sulfate, producing a complex that allows to identify and quantify the presence of the active substance. The samples A1, A3, A5 and A8 presented a formaldehyde concentration ranging from 1.5 to 3.83% (w / v), which corresponds to concentrations 7.5, 16.45, 7.9 and 19.15 times higher than allowed by ANVISA, presenting strong odor characteristic of this active substance. These samples, A3 and A5 did not indicate the presence of formaldehyde on the label, in addition to ignoring the warning information and restrictions. Was further verified, the absence of registration number issued by ANVISA for sample A5, which may indicate clandestine product. Concerning the organoleptic and physico-chemical characteristics only sample A2 presented results of different viscosity and centrifugation of the others. Given these results, it is concluded that 50% of the analyzed products were failed, due to the presence of formaldehyde outside the permitted concentration, evidencing the importance of implementation the system cosmetovigilance to ensure the final quality of cosmetic products, in view of primarily, the safety and efficacy of these products.(AU)

Análise microbiológica de xampus e cremes condicionadores para uso infantil / Microbiological Analysis of Children?s Shampoos and Conditioners

O Brasil é um dos maiores mercados mundiais consumidores de cosméticos infantis. A utilização de produtos de higiene pessoal, como xampus, condicionadores e sabonetes infantis, e de produtos de beleza já se incorporou ao dia a dia de muitas crianças. Deste modo, é imprescindível que esses produtos estejam em consonância com os limites microbianos estabelecidos pela Farmacopeia Brasileira (2010) e pela Resolução da Diretoria Colegiada/ANVISA No 481/99 para serem comercializados. Neste trabalho, foi avaliada a qualidade microbiológica de amostras de 10 xampus e 10 cremes condicionadores de cabelos destinados à higiene infantil. Dentre as amostras analisadas, verificou-se que, em 50% dos xampus e 30% dos cremes condicionadores capilares, houve proliferação de micro- organismos, tais como bactérias aeróbias e fungos, acima dos limites máximos permitidos. Embora não se tenha encontrado micro-organismos patogênicos, essas percentagens indicam a necessidade do cumprimento das Boas Práticas de Fabricação por parte das indústrias farmacêuticas e cosméticas, para que os consumidores possam adquirir produtos confiáveis, com qualidade adequada para manutenção da saúde e do bem-estar.(AU)

Brazil is one of the largest commercial markets for children?s cosmetics. Personal-care products such as shampoos, conditioners and soaps for infants use, as well as beauty products are used daily by many children. Therefore, it is essential that these products are within microbial limits established by the most recent Brazilian Pharmacopoeia and the Brazilian Health Surveillance Agency Collegiate Board of Directors Resolution No 481/99. This study evaluated the microbiological quality of samples of 10 shampoos and 10 conditioners intended for infant hygiene. Of the samples analyzed, 50% of shampoos and 30% of conditioners showed microbial growth, such as aerobic bacteria and molds/yeasts, over the limits allowed. Although pathogenic micro- organisms were not found, these proportions indicate the need for pharmaceutical and cosmetic companies and businesses to comply with Good Manufacturing Practices, so that consumers are able to purchase reliable products with appropriate quality to maintain their health and well-being.(AU)

Evaluación del fruto del Muyuyo (Cordia lutea Lamarck, boraginaceae), como ingrediente cosmético para la elaboración de fijadores de cabello / Evaluation of Muyuyo fruit (Cordia lutea Lamarck, boraginaceae), as a cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of hair fixatives

Las plantas contienen numerosos activos hidratantes, nutritivos, antioxidantes, suavizantes y estimulantes, ya sea en la corteza, en las hojas, en la raíz o en los granos. Los avances en materia de extracción y evaluación de los activos vegetales han sido realmente notables en la última década. El proyecto 'Agrocos', financiado con 2,9 millones de euros por la UE, está rastreando el mundo vegetal para encontrar sustitutivos naturales de los ingredientes sintéticos que se utilizan actualmente en los cosméticos. La especie Cordia lutea L. (Muyuyo, nombre originario de la zona litoral, peninsular de la Provincia del Guayas); está dentro de los arbustos que usualmente florecen en condiciones normales en zonas de clima cálido. Es decir, aquellas zonas con inviernos más o menos suaves, libres de frío y de vientos salinos. El muyuyo tiene muchas propiedades medicinales desde la flores, hojas, y frutos. Es conocido que la goma del fruto se la usa como goma arábiga, y para fijar el cabello. De acuerdo a las investigaciones realizadas sobre la composición química del fruto del muyuyo, nos encontramos que; es desconocida, de ahí que nace la importancia y se plantea en realizar su primer estudio fitoquímico, identificándose los metabolitos secundarios como: Lactonas, catequinas, azúcares reductores, saponinas, fenoles, taninos, aminoácidos y mucílagos.

The Effect of Work Characteristics on Dermatologic Symptoms in Hairdressers

OBJECTIVES: Hairdressers in Korea perform various tasks and are exposed to health risk factors such as chemical substances or prolonged duration of wet work. The objective of this study is to provide descriptive statistics on the demographics and work characteristics of hairdressers in Korea and to identify work-related risk factors for dermatologic symptoms in hairdressers. METHODS: 1,054 hairdressers were selected and analyzed for this study. Independent variables were exposure to chemical substances, the training status of the hairdressers, and the main tasks required of them, and the dependent variable was the incidence of dermatologic symptoms. The relationships between work characteristics and dermatologic symptoms were evaluated by estimating odds ratios using multiple logistic regression analysis. RESULTS: Among the 1,054 study subjects, 212 hairdressers (20.1%) complained of dermatologic symptoms, and the symptoms were more prevalent in younger, unmarried or highly educated hairdressers. The main tasks that comprise the majority of the wet work were strictly determined by training status, since 96.5% of staff hairdressers identified washing as their main task, while only 1.5% and 2.0% of master and designer hairdressers, respectively, identified this as their main task. Multiple logistic regressions was performed to estimate odds ratios. While exposure to hairdressing chemicals showed no significant effect on the odds ratio for the incidence of dermatologic symptoms, higher odds ratios of dermatologic symptoms were shown in staff hairdressers (2.70, 95% CI: 1.32 - 5.51) and in hairdressers who perform washing as their main task (2.03, 95% CI: 1.22 - 3.37), after adjusting for general and work characteristics. CONCLUSIONS: This study showed that the training status and main tasks of hairdressers are closely related to each other and that the training status and main tasks of hairdressers are related to the incidence of dermatologic symptoms. This suggests that in the future, regulations on working conditions and health management guidelines for hairdressers should be established.

Hair cosmetics.

The hair cosmetic industry has undergone a revolutionary change over the last two decades. The focus has dramatically veered from merely cleaning to repair, increasing the tensile strength, reducing oxidative damage, and stimulating growth. Newer shorter procedures to make hair look naturally more lustrous, smooth, and manageable have evolved. Specialized grooming products have been formulated to cleanse, calm, and condition the hair, and are tailored for different hair-types, for example, dry, dry-damaged, oily, colored, and gray hair. Other products are formulated to alter the color or structure of the hair shaft, for example, hair dyes, perming/relaxing. Hair sprays and waxes/gels, can alter the 'lift' of the hair-shaft. Although dermatologists are experts in managing scalp and hair diseases, the esthetic applications of newer cosmetic therapies still remain elusive. This article attempts to fill the lacunae in our knowledge of hair cosmetics and esthetic procedures relevant in today's rapidly changing beauty-enhancing industry, with special emphasis on the Indian scenario for chemical and 'natural' hair products.

Treatment of pityriasis versicolor with topical application of essential oil of Cymbopogon citratus (DC) Stapf - therapeutic pilot study / Tratamento de pitiríase versicolor com aplicação tópica do óleo essencial de Cymbopogon citratus (DC) Stapf - estudo terapêutico piloto

BACKGROUND: Pityriasis versicolor is a fungal infection caused by Malassezia spp. that has frequent relapses. OBJECTIVES: The main objective of this research was to perform phase I and II clinical studies, using formulations containing essential oil of Cymbopogon citratus in patients with pityriasis versicolor. METHODS: Phase I study included twenty volunteers to ascertain the safety of the formulations. In phase II, 47 volunteers randomly received essential oil formulations at 1.25 μL/mL concentration, for forty days. The shampoo should be applied three times a week and the cream twice a day. A control group in phase II, consisting of 29 volunteers, received the same formulations but with 2% ketoconazole as the active ingredient. RESULTS: No significant adverse events were observed in volunteers during Phase I. In Phase II, 30 (63.83%) volunteers using essential oil and 18 (62.07%) using ketoconazole remained until the end of the study. We observed a predominance of lesions in disseminated form, with M. sympodialis detected as the predominant agent identified in cultures. After 40 days of treatment, the rate of mycological cure was 60% (p <0.05) for the group treated with essential oil of C. citratus and over 80% (p <0.05) for the group treated with ketoconazole formulations. CONCLUSIONS: Notwithstanding the safety and antifungal effects observed in this study after application of formulations containing the essential oil of C. citratus, further studies with larger populations should be performed to confirm the actual potential of these formulations in the treatment of patients with Pityriasis versicolor. .

FUNDAMENTOS: Pitiríase versicolor é uma micose causada pela Malassezia spp., e que apresenta frequentes recidivas. OBJETIVOS: Este trabalho objetivou realizar estudos clínicos de fase I e II, para essa patologia, com óleo essencial de Cymbopogon citratus. MÉTODOS: Na fase I, participaram vinte voluntários para averiguar a segurança das formulações. Na fase II, 47 voluntários receberam as formulações do óleo essencial a 1,25 μL/mL, as quais deveriam ser utilizadas por quarenta dias, sendo o xampu três vezes por semana e o creme duas vezes ao dia. Um grupo controle na fase II, constituído por 29 voluntários recebeu as mesmas formulações, com cetoconazol a 2%. RESULTADOS: Verificada a segurança das formulações com a finalização da fase I, onde nenhuma reação adversa significativa foi observada nos indivíduos sadios, conduziu-se a fase II. Nesta segunda fase, 30 (63,83%) voluntários utilizando óleo essencial e 18 (62,07%) cetoconazol permaneceram até o final do estudo. Observaram-se nos pacientes com pitiríase versicolor predomínio de lesões na forma disseminada e M. sympodialis foi o agente predominante identificado em cultura. Após 40 dias de tratamento, obteve-se um percentual de cura micológica de 60% (p < 0,05) para o grupo tratado com óleo essencial de C. citratus e superior a 80% (p < 0,05) para o grupo tratado com cetoconazol. CONCLUSÕES: Apesar da segurança e efeito antifúngico observados após aplicação das formulações contendo óleo essencial de C. citratus, outros estudos com maior número de portadores de pitiríase versicolor precisam ser realizados para confirmar o real potencial destas f...

Controle de qualidade e análise sensorial em voluntários de xampu esfoliante com extrato hidroalcoólico de Capsicum frutescens L. (Solanaceae) / Quality control and sensory acceptability of exfoliating shampoo containing hydroethanolic extract of Capsicum frutescens L. (Solanaceae) peppers.

A fitocosmética é um setor em nítido crescimento por se ter verificado reais vantagens na incorporação de produtos vegetais em relação a certos produtos sintéticos em produtos cosméticos. O proposto trabalho foi desenvolvido enfocando-se o uso de xampu com a utilização de microesferas de biopolímero e extrato hidroalcoólico de Capsicum frutescens L., mais popularmente conhecida como pimenta-malagueta, para o tratamento de queda capilar simples (alopecia androgênica). As análises físico-químicas envolveram determinação de cinzas totais, pH, identificação de capsaicina e densidade do xampu, entre outros. Considerando-se os diversos aspectos exigidos para a garantia da qualidade do material botânico, que englobam não somente os aspectos físico-químicos, mas também o microbiológico, realizou-se, tanto no extrato quanto no produto final, a contagem total de micro-organismos, pesquisa de Salmonella sp e Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus e Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Foram realizadas análises sensoriais em voluntários, visando avaliar a qualidade sensorial do produto. Os voluntários avaliaram a amostra segundo questionário aplicado. Para as propriedades avaliadas, as microesferas esfoliantes incorporadas ao xampu mostraram-se ser bem aceitas pelos voluntários, principalmente devido à sensação transmitida pela esfoliação, fazendo com que o extrato hidroalcoólico promova uma maior oxigenação local.

Phytocosmetics is a sector of the market in rapid growth, since real advantages have been demonstrated in the incorporation of plant products in cosmetics, in place of certain synthetic products. The focus of this study was on the use of shampoo containing microspheres of biopolymer and a hydroalcoholic extract of the fruit of Capsicum frutescens L., more commonly known as chili pepper, for the treatment of hair loss (androgenic alopecia). The physical and chemical analysis included the determination of total ash, pH and density of the shampoo and the identification of capsaicin. Considering the various requirements for quality assurance of the plant material, encompassing not only physicochemical but also microbiological criteria, both the extract and the final product were subjected to a total count of microorganisms and tests for Salmonella sp, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. The sensory quality of the product was assessed by a panel of volunteers, who rated the sample of shampoo in response to a questionnaire. For the properties assessed, the exfoliating microspheres incorporated into the shampoo proved to be well tolerated by the volunteers, mainly on account of the feeling conveyed by exfoliation, causing the hydroalcoholic extract to promote greater local oxygenation.

Aplicación de la microscopía electrónica de barrido en la evaluación de dos materias primas cosméticas como restauradoras de la cutícula capilar / Scanning electron microscopy application for the hair cuticle effect evaluation of two cosmetic raw materials

El desafío de formular productos cosméticos capilares que den respuesta a la exigencia de verificación de la funcionalidad, realizada tanto por los organismos reguladores como por el consumidor actual, hace imperativa la necesidad de desarrollar metodologías dirigidas a la evaluación del desempeño de este tipo de productos, especialmente in vitro. Como un aporte en este sentido, en esta investigación se presenta un método de análisis por microscopía electrónica de barrido (sem), para la evaluación de los cambios de aspecto y composición atómica de la superficie de fibras capilares vírgenes, decoloradas y tinturadas, luego de aplicar sobre ellas champú y acondicionador formulados con activos restauradores de la cutícula. Los resultados obtenidos permiten la diferenciación de forma rápida y objetiva, del desempeño cosmético de los productos evaluados, lo que representa una ventaja respecto al método de evaluación sensorial tradicionalmente utilizado como apoyo al diseño de productos cosméticos capilares.

The challenge to formulate cosmetic hair products according to the demand of functionality verification by both regulators and consumers makes imperative the development of methodologies for their performance assessment, particularly in vitro. As a contribution to this issue, the current research shows a scanning electron microscopy (sem) methodology for the appearance evaluation and the investigation of the atomic composition of virgin, discolored and dyed tresses hair cuticle after applying shampoo and conditioner, which have been formulated with repair actives. The results allow the rapid and sustainable differentiation between the cosmetic performances of the products evaluated. This is an advantage of sem with regard to the sensory evaluation of the treated tresses, technique commonly used in the cosmetic hair products design.

Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties / Características da fibra do cabelo e métodos para avaliar o cabelo propriedades físicas e mecânicas

The hair thread is a natural fiber formed by keratin, a protein containing high concentration of sulfur coming from the amino acid cystine. The main physical proprieties of the hair depend mostly on its geometry; the physical and mechanical properties of hair involve characteristics to improve: elasticity, smoothness, volume, shine, and softness due to both the significant adherence of the cuticle scales and the movement control (malleability), as well as the easiness of combing, since they reduce the fibers static electricity. The evaluation of these effects on hair may be carried out by several methods, as: optical and electron microscopy, mechanical resistance measuring, shine evaluation and optical coherence tomography (OCT).

O cabelo é uma fibra natural formada por queratina, uma proteína composta por teor elevado de enxofre proveniente da cistina. As propriedades principais do cabelo dependem de sua geometria, estrutura física. Características físicas e mecânicas das fibras capilares envolvem propriedades que melhoram: elasticidade, maciez, volume, maleabilidade, facilidade para o ato de pentear e brilho. A avaliação de tais propriedades do cabelo pode ser obtida por métodos diversos, como: microscopia óptica e eletrônica, mensuração da resistência mecânica, determinação do brilho e tomografia por coerência óptica (OCT).

A importância do Serviço de Informações sobre Agentes Teratogênicos, Bahia, Brasil, na prevenção de malformações congênitas: análise dos quatro primeiros anos de funcionamento / Importance of the Teratogen Information Service in Bahia, Brazil, for prevention of congenital malformations: an initial four-year review

Agente teratogênico é definido como o agente físico, químico, biológico ou estado de deficiência que, durante a vida embrionária, leva a alteração na estrutura ou função do concepto. Informações sobre a conduta a ser tomada no caso de exposições a teratogênicos durante a gestação são imprescindíveis. Com essa finalidade, em 2001, foi implantado o Serviço de Informações sobre Agentes Teratogênicos da Bahia (SIAT-BA), localizado no Serviço de Genética Médica do Hospital Universitário Professor Edgard Santos da Universidade Federal da Bahia. O objetivo é descrever as características do atendimento do SIAT-BA nos seus primeiros quatro anos de funcionamento. As consultas foram realizadas através do contato via telefone, fax ou e-mail, entre março de 2001 e maio de 2005. Nesse período, o SIAT-BA recebeu 408 consultas, totalizando 1.091 motivos. A maioria das consultas foi realizada por gestantes e profissionais de saúde. Produtos para cabelo, chás e misoprostol foram os agentes mais investigados. O pequeno número de consultas (1/dia) indica a necessidade de maior divulgação do serviço e da conscientização da população sobre os riscos oferecidos pelos diversos agentes.

Teratogenic agents are defined as physical, chemical, or biological agents or nutrient deficiencies that lead to fetal structural or functional alterations. Information on the effects of exposure to teratogens during pregnancy is of the utmost importance. In order to achieve this goal, in 2001, the Bahia State Teratogen Information Service was created in the Medical Genetics Department at the University Hospital of the Federal University in Bahia. The current paper aimed to describe the first four years of operation in the service. From March 2001 to May 2005, the service was consulted by telephone, fax, and e-mail. During this period, 408 queries were made, for a total of 1,091 different reasons. Most queries were made by pregnant women and health care professionals. Hair products, herbal teas, and misoprostol were the most widely investigated agents. The low number of queries (average 1/day) shows the need for more awareness-raising on the risks posed by the various agents.