Correlation between rheological properties and capillary fixation for modelling creams

The Brazilian male beauty market occupies the second place in world consumption of cosmetics. Among the numerous products consumed by such audience is the capillary fixation mask, which is mainly composed by fixatives. These additives act on stabilizing the cosmetic emulsion, protecting the hair against moisture and also increasing the intensity of hair fixation. In this work, three formulations for modelling creams were prepared by different concentrations of the fixatives StylezeTM W20 and PVP K90 and their properties characterized by physicochemical, rheological and sensory analysis. The capillary masks produced were stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions with uniform droplets of 2.05-2.82 µm sizes and pseudoplastic thixotropic behavior (0.19 < n < 0.26). It was possible to correlate the increased concentration of PVP K90 to a greater thixotropy and an improved yarn fixation, despite the worsening in the spreadability of the formulations. These results suggest properly conducted rheological measurements can contribute to the prediction of the emulsion's sensory properties, which can save time and funds on the development of new cosmetics

Influence of different cosmetic vehicles in mechanical and physical properties of hair treated with oxidative hair dyes

ABSTRACT Hair care products play a significant role in the cosmetic market and aim at improving hair brightness, breakage resistance, and color change. In this study, we analyzed the possibility of the formulation of oxidative dyes in different vehicles impacting the hair's both mechanical and physical properties. Light brown and light blond dyes were prepared using eight different vehicles. Among these, four vehicles were emulsifying agents and four gelling agents. Each formulation was applied to two types of virgin Caucasian hair (light blond and dark brown). Physical, chemical, and organoleptic properties of each formulation were assessed, as well as changes in hair parameters after oxidative dyeing, such as staining intensity, brightness, and breaking strength. The parameters of color and brightness differed in some formulations, but the hair type also responded differently. Brightness parameter was increased in dark brown hair colored with both dyes, whereas light blond hair showed the opposite result. Regarding the breaking strength, there were no significant differences between the two kinds of tresses. Cosmetic formulations should adjust the consumer desired effects (e.g. color change) in order to present minimal drawbacks (e.g. decrease of hair brightness and strength). Thus, the study of different vehicles is important when establishing the best oxidative dye formulation.

Cosmetovigilância em alisantes capilares: Determinação do teor de formaldeído por espectrofotometria e avaliação do rótulo / Cosmetovigilance in hair straighteners: Determination of formaldehyde content by spectrophotometry and label evaluation

O objetivo do trabalho foi identificar e quantificar o formaldeído presente em formulações comerciais de alisamento capilar, sendo abordada a aplicação da cosmetovigilância a partir de ensaios organolépticos/ físico-químicos e análise dos rótulos. Oito formulações comerciais de marcas distintas foram submetidas à análise por espectrofotometria, baseado na reação entre formaldeído e ácido cromotrópico na presença de sulfato de magnésio, produzindo um complexo que permite identificar e quantificar a presença da substância ativa. As amostras A1, A3, A5 e A8 apresentaram uma concentração de formaldeído variando de 1,5 a 3,83% (p/v), o que corresponde a concentrações 7,5; 16,45; 7,9 e 19,15 vezes acima do permitido pela ANVISA, apresentando odor forte característico dessa substância ativa. Destas amostras, A3 e A5 não indicaram a presença de formaldeído no rótulo, além de ignorarem as informações de advertência e restrições de uso. Foi verificado ainda, a ausência do número de registro concedido pela ANVISA para a amostra A5, o que pode ser indício de produto clandestino. Quanto às características organolépticas e físico-químicas somente a amostra A2 apresentou resultados de viscosidade e centrifugação diferentes das demais. Diante desses resultados, conclui-se que 50% dos produtos analisados foram reprovados devido à presença de formaldeído fora da concentração permitida, ficando evidente a importância da implantação do sistema de cosmetovigilância para garantir a qualidade final dos produtos cosméticos, tendo em vista principalmente, a segurança e eficácia desses produtos.(AU)

This study aimed to identify and quantify the formaldehyde present in commercial formulations of hair straightening, being addressed the application of cosmetovigilance from organoleptic/physical- chemical tests and analysis of labels. Eight commercial formulations of different brands were analyzed by spectrophotometry, based on the reaction between formaldehyde and chromotropic acid in the presence of magnesium sulfate, producing a complex that allows to identify and quantify the presence of the active substance. The samples A1, A3, A5 and A8 presented a formaldehyde concentration ranging from 1.5 to 3.83% (w / v), which corresponds to concentrations 7.5, 16.45, 7.9 and 19.15 times higher than allowed by ANVISA, presenting strong odor characteristic of this active substance. These samples, A3 and A5 did not indicate the presence of formaldehyde on the label, in addition to ignoring the warning information and restrictions. Was further verified, the absence of registration number issued by ANVISA for sample A5, which may indicate clandestine product. Concerning the organoleptic and physico-chemical characteristics only sample A2 presented results of different viscosity and centrifugation of the others. Given these results, it is concluded that 50% of the analyzed products were failed, due to the presence of formaldehyde outside the permitted concentration, evidencing the importance of implementation the system cosmetovigilance to ensure the final quality of cosmetic products, in view of primarily, the safety and efficacy of these products.(AU)

Análise microbiológica de xampus e cremes condicionadores para uso infantil / Microbiological Analysis of Children?s Shampoos and Conditioners

O Brasil é um dos maiores mercados mundiais consumidores de cosméticos infantis. A utilização de produtos de higiene pessoal, como xampus, condicionadores e sabonetes infantis, e de produtos de beleza já se incorporou ao dia a dia de muitas crianças. Deste modo, é imprescindível que esses produtos estejam em consonância com os limites microbianos estabelecidos pela Farmacopeia Brasileira (2010) e pela Resolução da Diretoria Colegiada/ANVISA No 481/99 para serem comercializados. Neste trabalho, foi avaliada a qualidade microbiológica de amostras de 10 xampus e 10 cremes condicionadores de cabelos destinados à higiene infantil. Dentre as amostras analisadas, verificou-se que, em 50% dos xampus e 30% dos cremes condicionadores capilares, houve proliferação de micro- organismos, tais como bactérias aeróbias e fungos, acima dos limites máximos permitidos. Embora não se tenha encontrado micro-organismos patogênicos, essas percentagens indicam a necessidade do cumprimento das Boas Práticas de Fabricação por parte das indústrias farmacêuticas e cosméticas, para que os consumidores possam adquirir produtos confiáveis, com qualidade adequada para manutenção da saúde e do bem-estar.(AU)

Brazil is one of the largest commercial markets for children?s cosmetics. Personal-care products such as shampoos, conditioners and soaps for infants use, as well as beauty products are used daily by many children. Therefore, it is essential that these products are within microbial limits established by the most recent Brazilian Pharmacopoeia and the Brazilian Health Surveillance Agency Collegiate Board of Directors Resolution No 481/99. This study evaluated the microbiological quality of samples of 10 shampoos and 10 conditioners intended for infant hygiene. Of the samples analyzed, 50% of shampoos and 30% of conditioners showed microbial growth, such as aerobic bacteria and molds/yeasts, over the limits allowed. Although pathogenic micro- organisms were not found, these proportions indicate the need for pharmaceutical and cosmetic companies and businesses to comply with Good Manufacturing Practices, so that consumers are able to purchase reliable products with appropriate quality to maintain their health and well-being.(AU)

Cosméticos capilares / Hair cosmetics

Se realiza una revisión actualizada de los principales cosméticos capilares higiénicos (jabones y champús) y acondicionadores (bálsamos, fijadores, onduladores, decolorantes y tinturas). Se entregan nociones básicas acerca de los cuidados generales del cabello, y sobre la composición, mecanismo de acción y eventuales complicaciones o reacciones adversas que ocurren por el uso de productos destinados al cuidado y manejo del cabello

Avaliacao da eficacia antimicrobiana em condicionadores de cabelos / Evaluation of antimicrobial efficacy in hair conditioners

Condicionadores de cabelo, industrializados e comercializados em Sao Paulo, foram avaliados quanto a eficacia antimicrobiana de conservantes, frente a especificacao da Farmacopeia Britanica de 1988. Das 19 amostras, isentas de contaminacao viavel natural, 73,7% foram ativas contra Staphylococcus aureus e Pseudomonas aeruginosa e 94,4% contra Aspergillus niger. Em relacao a Candida albicans, das 15 amostras testadas, 93,3% nao se enquadram nessa especificacao. Analisando-se seis amostras com contaminacao natural observou-se que todas foram eficazes contra Aspergillus niger, mas apenas quatro frente a Pseudomonas aeruginosa

Contaminacao microbiana em condicionaores de cabelos / Microbial contamination in hair conditioners

Condicionadores de cabelos comercializados no Brasil foram analisados quanto a contaminacao microbiana, segundo metodos oficiais. A carga bacteriana viavel foi maior que 10 elevado a terceira/g em 26,6% das 60 amostras testadas. A contaminacao por bolores e leveduras foi menor que 10/g e nao foi detectada a presenca de Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa e Escherichia coli em todas as amostras testadas