Organic cocoa extract -loaded surfactant-based systems intended to skin bioadhesion

ABSTRACT This study was to develop, characterize, and evaluate the physical-chemical stability, in vitro antioxidant activity and in vitro safety profile of liquid crystalline systems (LCS) and microemulsions (MEs) with and without organic cocoa (OC) extract. LCS stabilized by surfactant polyoxyethylene 20 cetyl ether, containing water and oleic acid were studied. LCS and MEs were characterized using polarized light microscopy, small angle X-ray scattering, rheology and in vitro bioadhesion, and were evaluated for a period of 30 days by visual aspects, centrifuge test, pH value and relative density. PLM and SAXS assays showed the presence of domains of MEs, cubic and hexagonal mesophasephases, varying the proportions of the components of the formulations; where in the addition of the extract did not change rheological behavior of the formulations. All of the formulations were stable in the period analyzed and presented higher bioadhesive strength. In vitro antioxidant activity suggests that LCS and MEs presented a high capacity to maintain the antioxidant activity of OC extract. The results showed that the incorporation of OC in LCS improved the safety profile, according to cytotoxicity assays of systems may be a promising platform to OC extract for topical application for the potential treatment of skin disorders.

Sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics: consumer, products, efficacy, toxicological and regulatory considerations

The interest in sustainable products has increased along the years, since the choice of products, packaging and production processes have a great impact on the environment. These products are classified by regulatory agencies in different categories, aggregating advantages to the product and increasing the demand by consumers. However, there is no harmonization in guidelines of these certifying agencies and each cosmetic industry formulates their product and packaging in a more rational way, which causes less damage to the environment. Many cosmetic products have in their formulation natural products that perform a specific biological function, but these products should be evaluated on efficacy and toxicological aspects. The aim of this article is to approach sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics, considering the consumer and the efficacy, toxicological and regulatory aspects.

O interesse por produtos sustentáveis tem aumentado ao longo dos anos, desde a escolha dos produtos, embalagens e processos de produção tendo um grande impacto sobre o meio ambiente. Estes produtos são classificados por agências reguladoras em diferentes categorias, agregando vantagens ao produto e aumentando a demanda por parte dos consumidores. No entanto, não existe uma harmonização nas diretrizes destes órgãos de certificação e cada indústria cosmética formula seu produto e embalagem de uma forma mais racional, levando a menos danos ao meio ambiente. Muitos produtos cosméticos têm produtos naturais na formulação que executam uma função biológica específica, porém estes produtos devem ser avaliados quanto a sua eficácia e toxicidade. O objetivo deste artigo é abordar a sustentabilidade, cosméticos naturais e orgânicos, considerando os aspectos regulatórios, do consumidor e os aspectos de eficácia e toxicológicos.