Vegetable moisturizing raw material from "Caatinga" Brazilian biome: safety and efficacy evaluations of O/W cosmetic emulsions containing Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing sodium acrylates/ Beheneth-25 methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside and 0.5% of extract were prepared. The extract was considered as non-irritating through skin irritant tests. The stability testing was carried out in different conditions for 90 days. The skin hydration was measured by capacitance measurement and transepidermal water loss using biophysical techniques. The results indicate that the formulation containing 0.5% of extract increased the hydration of the stratum corneum up to 5 h after application on the forearm. The transepidermal water loss was reduced when compared to the untreated area and placebo area. Therefore, we can conclude that the increased skin hydration and protection of barrier function can be attributed to the K. brasiliensis extract. This research presents a new raw material from the Brazilian Caatinga biome and shows its possible application in the development of cosmetic products.

Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L. ) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

ABSTRACT The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer(r)) and the transepidermal water loss - TEWL evaluation (Tewameter(r)). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.

Desenvolvimento e validação de método analítico para determinação do 4-nerolidilcatecol (4-NRC) em solução de proteína plasmática para aplicação em estudos de microdiálise cutânea / Development and validation of analytical method to determine 4-nerolidylcatechol (4-NRC) in plasma protein solution used for cutaneous microdialysis studies

Este artigo aborda a validação de um método analítico para determinação, em amostras de microdiálise, de 4-nerolidilcatecol (4-NRC), uma substância natural extraída da Piper umbellata (Piperaceae) com comprovada atividade antioxidante. O sistema de cromatografia líquida (CLAE-PDA Shimadzu LC 20AT, bomba LC–20AT, injetor com autosampler SIL– 20A) foi acoplado a uma coluna C18 (Phenomenex® Synergi Fusion 4μ RP-80ª, 150 x 4,6 mm). A fase móvel constituiu-se de acetonitrila, metanol e água (54:20:26, v:v:v), sob fluxo de 1,0 mL min-1, com detecção a 280 nm, volume de injeção 30 μL e tempo de corrida 15 minutos. O método foi linear para concentrações de 5,0-200,0 μg mL -1 (r = 0,9996). Os limites de detecção e de quantificação foram, respectivamente, 1,35 e 4,5 μg mL-1. A precisão (DPR <5,0%) e exatidão (99,0 – 112,0%) ficaram dentro dos valores recomendados pela ANVISA. A robustez foi garantida medindo-se a influência da variação do fluxo e da proporção de acetonitrila da fase móvel. As amostras de albumina enriquecidas com 4-NRC e submetidas ao processo de extração apresentaram recuperação de 69 a 95%. O método desenvolvido pode ser aplicado à análise de 4-NRC, com finalidade de estudos de microdiálise cutânea, devido aos adequados parâmetros de validação obtidos.

This paper reports the validation of an analytical method for the determination, in skin microdialysis samples, of 4-nerolidylcatechol (4-NRC), a natural substance extracted from Piper (Pothomorphe) umbellata (Piperaceae) with recognized antioxidant activity. The liquid chromatographic system (HPLC-PDA Shimadzu LC20AT, pump LC-20AT, injector with autosampler SIL-20A) was coupled to a C18 column (Phenomenex® Synergi Fusion 4 μm RP-80 Å, 150 x 4.6 mm), with acetonitrile:methanol:water (54:20:26, v:v:v) as the mobile phase, flowing at 1.0 mL min-1, with detection by absorbance at 280 nm, injection volume 30 μL and running time 15 min. The method was linear for concentrations from 5.0 to 200.0 μg mL-1 (r=0.9996). Detection and quantitation limits were, respectively, 1.35 and 4.5 μg mL-1, precision (RSD < 5.0%) and accuracy (99.0-112.0%) within values recommended by ANVISA. The robustness was tested by measuring the effect of arying the flow-rate and the proportion of acetonitrile in the mobile phase. Microdialysis perfusion solution of albumin (BSA) spiked with 4-NRC and subjected to liquid-liquid extraction showed recovery from 69 to 95%. This method is applicable to the analysis of 4-NRC for the purpose of cutaneous microdialysis studies, in view of the acceptable validation parameters obtained.

Avaliação da eficácia e segurança do extrato de folhas de Rubus rosaefolius Sm. visando a aplicação como conservante em produtos cosméticos / Effectiveness and safety evaluation of Rubus rosaefolius Sm. leaves, regarding to the preservative use in cosmetic products

Os produtos cosméticos e farmacêuticos contendo componentes de origem natural têm aumentado significativamente nos últimos anos. Com o objetivo de utilizar esses componentes como conservante em formulações cosméticas, determinou-se a atividade antimicrobiana do extrato bruto de folhas de Rubus rosaefolius Sm. e suas frações. Aquele de melhor desempenho foi avaliado quanto à toxicidade in vitro e seu comportamento em formulações cosméticas (creme, gel e xampu), relacionado à estabilidade, eficácia do sistema conservante e compatibilidade epidérmica. A atividade antimicrobiana foi determinada pelo método de microdiluição e a concentração de 0,2% (p/v) do extrato bruto apresentou melhor desempenho. O teste de toxicidade do extrato bruto foi realizado por meio do método colorimétrico Cell Titer 96®, MTS, em cultura de queratinócitos humanos, constatando-se índice de citotoxicidade (IC50) de 1,0 mg/mL. As formulações cosméticas contendo o extrato foram analisadas quanto à estabilidade e as de melhor desempenho foram submetidas ao teste de eficácia do sistema conservante, de acordo com os procedimentos descritos na CTFA. O sistema conservante mostrou-se efetivo frente à Escherichia coli IAL 2393 (ATCC 10536), a Pseudomonas aeruginosa IAL 1874 (ATCC 9027), ao Staphylococcus aureus IAL 1875 (ATCC 6548), a Burkholderia cepacia IAL 1834 ATCC (17759) e a Candida albicans IAL 1611 (ATCC 10231). Avaliouse a compatibilidade epidérmica das formulações em equivalentes dermo-epidérmicos, sistema tridimensional cultivados na superfície ar-líquido. Os resultados mostraram que houve diferenças na compatibilidade epidérmica dependendo das características dos componentes das formulações. Concluiu-se que o extrato bruto de folhas de Rubus rosaefolius Sm. a 0,2% (p/v) pode ser utilizado como candidato a conservante em formulações cosméticas, sendo estável e apresentar compatibilidade epidérmica.

Cosmetic and pharmaceuticals products contained natural compounds have increased in the last few years. To verify the use of these compounds as preservative in formulations, the antimicrobial activity from the raw extract of the Rubus rosaefolius Sm. leaves and its fractions was determined. The toxicity in vitro and the behavior in cosmetic formulations (gel, emulsion and shampoo), regarding to the stability, effectiveness of the preservative system, and epidermal compatibility were evaluated in the extract, which had the best preservative action. The antimicrobial activity was determined by the micro dilution method, and the 0.2% concentration (w/v) of the raw extract had the best performance. The toxicity of the extract was analyzed by Cell Titer 96® colorimetric; MTS method in human keratinocytes culture, and the index of cytotoxicity (IC 50) found was 1.0 mg/mL. The cosmetic formulations with the raw extract were analyzed regarding to the stability and the best formulations were submitted to preservative challenge test, according to CTFA procedures. The preservative system was effective against Escherichia coli IAL 2393 (ATCC 10536), Pseudomonas aeruginosa IAL 1874 (ATCC 9027), Staphylococcus aureus IAL 1875 (ATCC 6548), Burkholderia cepacia IAL 1834 ATCC (17759), and Candida albicans IAL 1611 (ATCC 10231). The epidermal compatibility of the formulations was verified by skin (dermo-epidermal) equivalent, three-dimensional system, cultivated in the air-liquid surface. The results showed there were differences in the epidermal compatibility depended on the ingredient of formulation. In conclusion, the raw extract from the Rubus rosaefolius Sm leaves 0.2% (w/v) can be used as preservative candidate in the cosmetic formulations analyzed due to stability and it presented epidermal compatibility.

Validação de metodologias analíticas para determinação quantitativa de α-tocoferol e 4-nerolidilcatecol / Validation of α-tocopherol and 4-nerolidylcathecol quantitative assessment methodologies

O objetivo do nosso trabalho foi desenvolver um método para avaliação da concentração do `alfaï-tocoferol, considerado o antioxidante lipofilico de maior importância, e do 4-nerolidilcatecol (4-NC), uma substância natural com comprovada ação antioxidante in vitro e in vivo, em matriz biológica (homogeneizado de pele). Utilizamos a cromatografia de alta eficiência acoplada a um detector eletroquímico, sendo que o método apresentou linearidade para as concentrações de 0,025 µg/mL para o `alfaï-T (tempo de retenção 3,4 min) e de 0,15 µg/mL a 2,5 µg/mL para o 4-NC (tempo de retenção 2,06 min), dissolvidos em etanol e etanol:água (1:1)...