Stability and Sensory Evaluation of an Innovative Antiaging Formulation Based on Marine Ingredients

Abstract The high consumption of antiaging cosmetics represents an outstanding opportunity for the development of new processes and attractive products in the cosmetic industry. Stability studies and sensory analyses are critical steps in the development process and production chain. Here we present a potential antiaging cosmetic product with innovative sensory characteristics. Caviar extract antioxidant properties were firstly evaluated by the DPPH method since it is an important mechanism against skin aging. Ca-alginate beads containing 2% of caviar extract and 0.2% of black pigment were prepared to obtain spheres similar to caviar. The beads were incorporated in a gel phase (hydroxyethylcellulose 2.5%) containing 3% of dimethylaminoethanol. Stability was evaluated in different storage conditions (sunlight exposure, 5 ± 2 °C, 37 ± 2 °C and r.t.) through the parameters: appearance, color and odor, pH (6-7), density (0.98-1.14 g.mL-1), centrifugation and average size. After approval by the Committee for Ethics in Research (n° 3.503.061), 30 volunteers tested the new formulation and answered a questionnaire. At 2%, caviar extract was able to scavenge 10.9% ± 0.58 of DPPH radical. Formulations showed good stability after 90 days, even considering the average size (7.47 ± 0.41 - 8.4 ± 0.65 mm2). 90% of the sensory test participants reported that they would buy the new product. Therefore, the new product developed demonstrates a promising potential as an attractive cosmetic product.

Effect of dimethylaminoethanol and compound amino acid solution on collagen metabolism and free radicals in D-galactose induced aging rat skin / 中华医学美学美容杂志

Objective To study the mechanism of anti-aging effect of dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) and compound amino acid (AA) injection by mesotheray in D-galactose-induced skin aging rat.Methods Eighty rats were randomly divided into aging treatment group (60 cases),aging control group (10 cases) and normal control group (10 cases).The skin aging models were established by subcutaneous infectim of D-galactose.From the 18th day,the aging treatment group were injected intradermally in the rats' both sides hip skin with 0.2％ DMAE+ AA,0.1％ DMAE+AA,0.2％DMAE,0.1％ DMAE,AA,and saline,once a week.After four weeks,HE,water content,superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity,hydroxyproline (HYP) and malondialdehyde (MDA) content were measured.Results Compared with the aging control group,the epidermal and the dermal thickness and the collagen area of rats skin' increased significantly in 0.2 ％ DMAE+ AA and 0.1％ DMAE+ AA treatment groups (P＜0.05).0.2％ DMAE+AA and 0.1 ％ DMAE+AA treatment groups also had higher SOD activity,HYP content and lower MDA content than other groups (P＜0.05),but no difference was noted among normal control group,0.2％ DMAE+AA and 0.1％ DMAE+AA group (P＞0.05).There were no differences in water content among groups (P＞0.05).Conclusions Intradermal injection with 0.1％ DMAE+ AA and 0.2 ％ DMAE+AA in aging rats may increase the epidermal and the dermal thickness and the collagen of rats skin' improve SOD activity,HYP content and decreased MDA content,indicating that it has ability to clear skin free radicals,enhance antioxidant capacity and skin collagen metabolism,and thus prevent skin aging.

Development of methodologies for dimethylaminoethanol glycolate assay in association with sunscreens in dermocosmetic formulation

DMAE glycolate (DG) and sunscreens have been used associated in anti-aging dermocosmetic formulations. Despite extensive use of these substances, methods for quantification of DG as raw material and in cosmetic formulations, especially when associated, are not described in the literature. RP-HPLC and non-aqueous titration methods, with determination potentiometric end-point (PT), were developed and validated for rapid assay of DG as raw material and in a topic emulsion in association with sunscreens. Both methods are simple, selective, linear, accurate and precise. The PT method was chosen for stability study of DG in the formulation developed. The proposed formulation presented good stability performance as regards aspect, pH, apparent viscosity, and SPF, with less than 5% of DG degradation compared to initial conditions.

Glicolato de DMAE (DG) e protetores solares têm sido utilizados associados em formulações dermocosméticas antiidade. Apesar da ampla utilização dessas substâncias, métodos de quantificação para DG matéria-prima e em formulações cosméticas, especialmente quando associados, não estão descritos na literatura. Neste trabalho foram desenvolvidas e validadas metodologias por CLAE-FR e titulação em meio não-aquoso, com determinação do ponto final por potenciométrica (TP), para a rápida análise de DG matéria-prima e em emulsão tópica em associação com fotoprotetores. Ambos os métodos são simples, seletivos, lineares, exatos e precisos. O método TP foi escolhido para o estudo da estabilidade do DG na formulação desenvolvida. A formulação proposta apresentou um bom desempenho no que se refere a estabilidade, aspecto, pH, viscosidade aparente e SPF, com menos de 5% degradação do DG comparado as condições iniciais.