Preparation and evaluation of moisturizing hydrogel facial mask using alcohol-free microemulsion of olive oil compound as carrier / 中国药学杂志

ABSTRACT

OBJECTIVE: To investigate an efficient hydrating facial mask with olive oil (OL)/vitamin E succinate(VES) as the oil phase(O), and with hyaluronic acid, collagen, sodium alginate, arbutin, allantoin as the active ingredients, using a low concentration of surfactant(S) and alcohol-free microemulsion gel as the carrier. METHODS By investigating the effect of VES and co-surfactant (CoS) propylene glycol on microemulsion region, the microemulsion formulation was screened. The microemulsion characteristics of the facial mask were characterized by transmission electron microscopy and Malvern particle size determination. The moisturizing effect and transdermal absorption capacity of the facial mask were evaluated using a commercially available unifon mask as the reference substance. RESULTS Through the compounding of OL and VES, the microemulsion area of OL was increased, and microemulsion range was largest when the mass ratio of OL to VES was 6∶1.The use of the co-surfactant(propylene glycol) reduced the OL microemulsion area. The microemulsion with O/S mass ratio of 4/6 and water content of 85% was selected as the carrier, and the obtained droplet of the facial mask was round, the average particle size was (58.83±0.79) nm, and the PDI was (0.271±0.001), which were in line with the characteristics of microemulsion. Compared with commercial unifon mask, the moisturizing effect of the self-made microemulsion gel facial mask increased by 20.37%. The steady-state infiltration rates of 1% arbutin from the facial mask through the isolated cavy skin was 0.305 mg•cm-2•h-1, which was 4.29 times higher than that from the marketed unifon mask. This product was safe and stable, and meets the sensory and physicochemical indexes of the national light industry standard QB/T2872-2007. CONCLUSION The facial mask with OL/VES microemulsion gel as the carrier can improve the hydrating effect and the transdermal absorption of the active substance, it is expected to be promoted and developed.