The revised COLIPA in vitro UVA method.

A multicentred study derived from the COLIPA in vitro UVA method was performed to assess the influence of test conditions on UVA protection factor (UVAPF) values in terms of amplitude, reproducibility between laboratories and correlation with in vivo UVA results. Eight products with a range of in vivo UVAPF from three to 29 were used. Two different types of plates, namely high-roughness (5 µm) and low-roughness (2 µm) plates, were used with a different application rate for each (1.3 mg cm(-2) and 0.75 mg cm(-2) respectively). The UVR dose applied to both plate types followed the same principle as the original test (1.2 J. cm(-2)  × UVAPF0). Strong, significant correlations between in vitro and in vivo UVAPF values were observed for both plate types (Pearson correlation > 0.9, P ≤ 0.01). The correlation and slope obtained with the low-roughness plates confirmed the previous results obtained by COLIPA. Across all laboratories, higher UVAPF values were obtained on the high-roughness plates (P < 0.01). Reproducibility of UVAPF values between laboratories was comparable between the two plate roughness values (low roughness, COV = 8%; high roughness, COV = 12%). Considering the in vitro/in vivo comparisons, a regression slope of 0.83 was observed for the low-roughness plates, in comparison with a value of 1.05 for the high-roughness plates. The accuracy of the method was improved, therefore, with the use of the high-roughness plates. With a constraint to recommend the use of only one plate type in the COLIPA UVA in vitro Test, the high-roughness plate was selected on an on-going basis to limit variability of results and to provide better accuracy with in vivo data.

The COLIPA in vitro UVA method: a standard and reproducible measure of sunscreen UVA protection.

There is a continuing need to measure and communicate reliably the UVA protection offered by commercial sunscreens. To that end, the COLIPA (European Cosmetics Trade Association) 'In Vitro Sun Protection Methods' group has developed a new in vitro method for measuring UVA protection in a standardized, reproducible manner. The method is based on in vitro UV substrate spectrophotometry and convolution of resulting absorbance data with the action spectrum for the in vivo Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) endpoint to provide an in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) which is correlated with an in vivo measure. This method has been published as a COLIPA guideline, used currently in European geographies for testing and labelling sunscreen products. This article summarizes two 'ring' studies, involving eight separate testing laboratories, which both defined critical parameters for the method and validated it. In Ring Study 1, eight laboratories tested the in vitro UV transmission of a total of 24 sunscreens and, from the data, a unit dose of UVA (D(0) of 1.2 J cm(-2)) was defined to provide a single irradiation step which, by taking into account potential sunscreen photo-instability, gave the closest agreement with in vivo UVAPF values. In Ring Study 2, eight laboratories tested the in vitro UV transmission of a total of 13 sunscreens using this single irradiation step and established a very good correlation (r(2) = 0.83; slope = 0.84, P < 0.0001) between resulting in vitro UVAPF values and corresponding values derived from the in vivo PPD method. This new method, therefore, can be used to provide a reliable in vitro metric to describe and label UVA efficacy in sunscreen products, in line with the EU Commission recommendation 2006/247/EC.

In vitro assessment of water resistance of sun care products: a reproducible and optimized in vitro test method.

The aim of the study was to develop a simple reproducible and reliable in vitro water resistance (WR) method to assess the sun care products. This paper is the result of a scientific collaboration between seven different international industrial laboratories and testing institutes. The same group has already achieved an in vitro protocol for the sun protection factor (SPF) determination [1]. The in vitro WR of sunscreens was tested by applying the same principle as in vivo, which determines the percentage of retention of sunscreen products by assessing the SPF before and after water immersion. Special care was taken to study the parameters influencing the WR and the possibility to follow the kinetics of sunscreen retention during water immersion. The influence of different water qualities has been tested, and osmosed water (1-3 microS cm(-1)) was chosen for the main ring study. Measurement was carried out after 5, 20 and 40 min of immersion. Histograms of selected products demonstrate the percentage of WR at all measuring times and centres, and the regression coefficient to the in vivo determination was shown and statistical calculations clearly demonstrate the reproducibility of the results between the different evaluation centres. The presented method is a practical, convenient and relevant tool for WR screening of sun care and skin care products. It even has the potential to be the starting point for the replacement of the in vivo method in future.

Percutaneous absorption of sunscreens from liquid crystalline phases.

The purpose of the present study was to investigate the effects of two nonionic surfactants with liquid crystalline structures on the cutaneous availability of two sunscreens. Three liquid crystalline structures were investigated: lamellar, hexagonal and cubic. The diffusion of sunscreens within the liquid crystals was determined by measuring transport kinetics into an unloaded surfactant medium from a similar system loaded with the sunscreens. The diffusion coefficients were the greatest in the cubic systems for benzophenone-4 (a hydrosoluble sunscreen) and in lamellar systems for octyl methoxycinnamate (a liposoluble sunscreen). So the diffusion in this surfactant systems was strongly dependent on the structure of the liquid crystal and on the physicochemical properties of the solute. The transcutaneous fluxes were determined using a Franz-type diffusion cell. The liquid crystalline vehicles modified the transcutaneous fluxes of benzophenone-4 but did not change those of octyl methoxycinnamate. The solute diffusion within the vehicle was not the rate-determining step for transcutaneous permeation for either sunscreen. The diffusion of benzopenone-4 within the stratum corneum and that of octyl methoxycinnamate within the dermis could be the rate-determining steps for their transcutaneous permeation. These two steps could be affected differently by nonionic surfactant vehicles.

Pulsed photoacoustic study of the diffusion of chromophores in human skin.

The technique of pulsed photoacoustic spectroscopy was used to investigate the diffusion of chromophores in human skin. The kinetic of diffusion has been studied for five solutions at different concentrations in a mixture of chromophores, as used in commercial sunscreens. In addition to the classical macroscopic interpretation of the diffusion process, a new method is shown to give more detailed information on chromophore presence at different depths in skin. For the first time, results are expressed in the frequency domain by means of the Fourier transform applied to the photoacoustic signal. The spectra are discussed versus the depth in skin samples and the time of diffusion kinetics. This new method of data analysis is shown to be very useful for understanding the influence of the internal structure of a medium on the penetration rate of chromophores into skin.