Conformation changes in human hair keratin observed using confocal Raman spectroscopy after active ingredient application.

OBJECTIVE: In hair care cosmetic products' evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels. METHODS: To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α-helix and ß-sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content. RESULTS: We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α-helix keratin conformation and promotes ß-sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S-S at 510 cm-1 ) cross-linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin. CONCLUSION: From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α-helix and ß-sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non-destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories.

OBJECTIF: Dans l'évaluation des produits cosmétiques pour le soin des cheveux, une méthode communément utilisée consiste à évaluer l'aspect des cheveux afin de déterminer l'effet d'un principe actif sur l'état final des cheveux via l'appréciation visuelle. Bien que d'autres techniques ont été proposées pour une analyse directe de la fibre capillaire, elles ne donnent que des informations de surface ou de structure, sans aucune information moléculaire précise. Une approche différente par la spectroscopie confocale Raman a été proposée pour le suivi in situ du changement moléculaire de la kératine directement dans les fibres de cheveux humains. Il présente une grande spécificité moléculaire, détecter les interactions chimiques entre les molécules et peut fournir des informations moléculaires à différents niveaux de profondeur du cortex et de la cuticule. MÉTHODES: Afin d'évaluer le potentiel de la spectroscopie Raman confocale pour tester l'efficacité des ingrédients cosmétiques sur la structure de la kératine, nous avons entrepris une étude pilote sur l'efficacité d'un shampooing lissant sur cheveux naturels, en analysant les marqueurs spectraux de l'hélice α et du feuillet ß dans la bande Amide I et les marqueurs spectraux spécifiques au contenu en sulfure-cystine. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons confirmé qu'un actif s'avérant efficace sur un gold standard diminue la conformation de la kératine en hélice α et favorise la conformation de la kératine en feuillet ß dans les fibres des cheveux. Nous avons également montré que le traitement avec l'actif efficace diminue l'intensité des bandes de cystéine réticulant sous forme de ponts disulfures covalents (S - S à 510 cm-1). Ces données confirment que l'actif efficace agit également sur la structure tertiaire de la kératine. CONCLUSION: À partir de ces expériences, nous avons conclu que l'actif efficace a un effet lissant sur les fibres du cheveu humain en agissant sur la conformation hélice α et feuillet ß de la kératine et sur la structure tertiaire de la kératine. Sur la base de ces résultats, la spectroscopie confocale Raman peut être considérée comme une technique puissante pour étudier l'influence des ingrédients cosmétiques sur la structure de la kératine dans les fibres de cheveux. De plus, cette technique analytique a l'avantage d'être non destructive et ne nécessite pas de marquage; de plus, elle ne nécessite pas d'extraction ou de purification des échantillons et peut être appliquée en routine dans les laboratoires de cosmétiques.

Opioid receptor delta as a global modulator of skin differentiation and barrier function repair.

OBJECTIVES: The aims of this study were to confirm the properties of selective agonist peptide (Rubixyl) contained in the spinach towards opioid receptor delta. In fact, agonist properties of both spinach peptides (Rubiscolin-5 and Rubixyl) towards opioid receptor delta were demonstrated by Zang et al., but their effects on the other opioid receptors were not studied [1]. We also studied the expression of opioid receptor delta in epidermis under normal and stress condition (inflammatory) and its role in epidermis homeostasis under stress condition in vitro and in vivo. METHODS: Agonist properties studies were performed using functional agonist cellular model containing human opioid receptors. Opioid receptor delta expression and epidermis homeostasis were studied on human reconstructed epidermis under normal and stress conditions (inflammatory stress) using gene expression (RT-qPCR) and protein expression analysis (immunohistological analysis). Skin repair properties of opioid receptor delta agonist were based on the following parameters TEWL (trans epidermal water loss, hydration and wrinkle depth at periocular and perilabial area) on human volunteers having either intrinsic ageing (more than 40 years old and non-smoker group) and both intrinsic ageing and extrinsic ageing (more than 40 years old and smoker group). RESULTS: We have demonstrated that the Rubixyl peptide is a specific agonist of opioid receptor delta. We have demonstrated that opioid receptor delta expression is modulated under inflammatory condition. The agonist Rubixyl was able to block the depletion of opioid receptor delta seen under inflammatory condition in reconstructed human epidermis. Inflammatory conditions lead to the unbalanced gene and protein expressions of markers involved in epidermis integrity and barrier function properties. The treatment of human reconstructed epidermis with the agonist Rubixyl leads to the normalization of unbalanced gene and protein expressions. In vivo study has confirmed the efficiency of the agonist Rubixyl to repair damaged skin by decreasing TEWL, increasing hydration and decreasing wrinkle depth at the periocular and perilabial area. CONCLUSION: In this research, we have demonstrated in vitro (on inflamed reconstructed human epidermis, RHE) and in vivo (on human aged volunteers) that activation by natural agonist peptide of opioid receptor delta reduces the skin inflammation thus leading to improvement in epidermis differentiation and skin barrier properties.

Improvement of polyphenol properties upon glucosylation in a UV-induced skin cell ageing model.

OBJECTIVE: Polyphenols are strong antioxidant molecules allowing prevention of skin photo-ageing damages, but their use is limited due to low solubility and toxicity towards skin cells. We postulated that enzymatic glucosylation could improve their solubility, stability and, consequently, their efficacy. The aim of this work was to study changes induced by addition of a glucose moiety on two polyphenols displaying very different chemical structures [caffeic acid (CA), epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and there glucosylated form, Glc-CA and Glc-EGCG] by assessing their cytotoxic properties and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. METHODS: Their antioxidant effect was assessed first by the classical DPPH radical-scavenging method. Then, a panel of human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts and endothelial cells) was used to evaluate their effect on cell toxicity and their antioxidant activities. With this aim, a photo-ageing model based on UV irradiation of skin cells was established. Molecule activity was assessed on reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, on superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities and, finally, on inflammatory factor production IL-6, IL-8 and IL-1ß. RESULTS: In an acellular model, antioxidant activity assessed by DPPH method was strongly reduced for Glc-CA compared to CA, whereas it remained the same for Glc-EGCG compared to EGCG. Glucosylated derivatives did not display more toxic effect on various skin cells. Moreover, toxicity was even strongly reduced for caffeic acid upon glucosylation. The efficacy of glucosyl-compounds against UV-induced ROS production was preserved, both with pre- and post-UV treatments. Particularly, a better antioxidant efficacy was shown by Glc-EGCG, vs. EGCG, on keratinocytes. In addition, an induction of SOD and catalase activity was clearly observed for Glc-CA. Both glucosyl-polyphenols display the same activity as their parent molecule in decreasing inflammatory factor production. CONCLUSION: Our results demonstrated that enzymatic glucosylation of CA and EGCG led to an improved or preserved antioxidant activity in a cellular model of UV-induced skin ageing, despite the decrease in instantaneous antioxidant properties observed for Glc-CA. Glc-EGCG is specifically more active on keratinocytes, suggesting a specific targeting. Such glucosylated polyphenols displaying improved physicochemical and biological properties should be better candidates than natural ones for use in food additives and cosmetics.

Study of the cryotolerance of Lactobacillus acidophilus: effect of culture and freezing conditions on the viability and cellular protein levels.

Slow cooling rate and pre-freezing stress brings about a high increase in the cell resistance and preservation of their physiological characteristics. A brutal decrease in temperature (from 37 degrees C to - 80 degrees C) causes a considerable loss of cell viability, in contrast a slow one preserves a survival rate of 75%. Pre-incubation of cells at low temperature (22 degrees C) during 6 h led to the development of cryotolerance indicated by an enhanced capacity to survive after a freezing treatment of 24 h at - 80 degrees C. Exposure of the cells to low pH (5.5) caused a large decrease in cell resistance but did not lead to any significant decrease of survival rate after freezing treatment. However, an increase of 15 +/- 3% in protein level compared to cells cultivated at regulated pH was observed.

Reversible enzymic protection of the alpha-amino group of amino acid derivatives using an aminopeptidase A.

In previous papers we have reported that an aminopeptidase A (EC 3.4.11.7) purified from Staphylococcus chromogenes was able to catalyse the introduction of L-malic acid at the N-terminus of Tyr and Phe derivatives. We now show that this enzyme can be used for selective alpha-amino protection of derivatives of probably all amino acids, except Gly and Pro, by the malyl group. The following L-malyl derivatives were synthesized in thermodynamically controlled reactions with yields ranging from 4 to 47%: L-malyl-Tyr-OEt, -ALA-OMe, -Ser-OEt, -Lys-OEt, -Phe-OMe, -Met-NH2, -Glu-MH2, Arg-NH2, -Tye-NH2, -Val-NH2, -Ala-Phe and -Ala-Phe-NH2 (OEt and OMe are ethyl and methyl esters respectively). The reactions were monitored by reverse-phase h.p.l.c.; the products were quantified by amino acid analysis, and their structure was confirmed by m.s. No synthesis was obtained with Gly and Pro derivatives as nucleophiles. The effects of pH, temperature, enzyme concentration, nucleophile concentration, reaction time and addition of an organic co-solvent were studied. An important shift towards synthesis was obtained by carrying out the reactions at 55 degrees C in the presence of 55% organic co-solvent Triglyme (2,4,8,11-tetraoxadodecane) [8-60-fold increase in Ksyn. ([product] [acyl-donor]-1 [nucleophile]-1)].

Purification and characterization of an aminopeptidase A from Staphylococcus chromogenes and its use for the synthesis of amino-acid derivatives and dipeptides.

An aminopeptidase with original specificity was purified 3800-fold to homogeneity from a cellular extract of Staphylococcus chromogenes. The enzyme was specific for acidic amino acids (Asp and Glu) at the N-terminus of peptides and thus can be classified as an aminopeptidase A. However, its specificity was not restricted to acidic amino acids: alpha-hydroxy acids such as L-malic and L-lactic acids were also accepted in position P1. The enzyme had a broad specificity for the residue at position P' 1, accepting all types of amino acids, including Pro, in this position. The optimal conditions for the hydrolysis of Asp-Phe-NH2 were pH 9.5 and 60 degrees C. The enzyme was inhibited by chelating agents and serine-protease inhibitors. The activity lost by treatment with chelating agents could be restored by Mn2+ or Zn2+ which also stimulated the native enzyme. This suggests that it is a metalloprotease with a serine residue essential for the activity. The native enzyme had an apparent molecular mass of 430 kDa on gradient-gel electrophoresis and subunits of 43 kDa as determined by SDS/PAGE. The enzyme catalyzed the synthesis of peptide and amino acid derivatives such as Asp-Phe-OMe (Aspartame) and malyl-Tyr-OEt from L-Asp and L-malic acid as acyl donors and L-Phe-OMe and L-Tyr-OEt as nucleophiles, respectively. The use of the enzyme as a reagent in protease-catalyzed peptide synthesis, N-terminal protection and subsequent deprotection, is described.

Synthesis of amino-acid derivatives and dipeptides with an original peptidase enzyme.

A peptidase from the non pathogenic Staphylococcus sp. strain BEC 299 was purified to a final specific activity of 84,400 U/mg protein. Its molecular weight is 450 kDa and optimum pH 10.0. This enzyme catalyzes the synthesis of dipeptides (aspartame) and alpha-amino acid derivatives (N-L-malyl-L-tyrosine ethyl ester). The influence of cosolvents and pH on dipeptides and alpha-amino acid derivative synthesis is described. Finally, we detail the use of the peptidase as a reagent in protease-catalyzed peptide synthesis.