ABSTRACT
Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis L.) wax was previously reported to increase cutaneous wound healing, ameliorate acne and psoriasis manifestations, and reduce oxidative stress and inflammation. However, its potential cosmetic properties have not been fully investigated. Thus, the current study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory activities of jojoba wax and its impact on the synthesis of extracellular components following topical application. The fatty acid and fatty alcohol profiles of two industrial and two lab-scale cold-press jojoba waxes were analyzed along with total tocopherol and phytosterol content. The dermo-cosmetic effect of all jojoba wax preparations was evaluated ex-vivo, using the human skin organ culture model, which emulates key features of intact tissue. The ability of jojoba wax to reduce secreted levels of key pro-inflammatory cytokines and the safety of the applications in the ex-vivo model were evaluated. In addition, the impact on the synthesis of pro-collagen and hyaluronic acid levels upon treatment was investigated. The results demonstrate that topically applied jojoba wax can reduce LPS-induced secretion of IL-6, IL-8, and TNFα by approx. 30% compared to untreated skin. This effect was enhanced when treatment was combined with low non-toxic levels of Triton X-100, and its efficacy was similar to the anti-inflammatory activity of dexamethasone used as a positive control. In addition, mRNA and protein levels of collagen III and synthesis of hyaluronic acid were markedly increased upon topical application of jojoba. Moreover, the enhanced content of extracellular matrix (ECM) components correlated with the enhanced expression of TGFß1. Collectively, our results further demonstrate that jojoba can reduce local skin inflammation, and this effect may be increased by emulsifier which increases its bioavailability. In addition, the finding that topical application of jojoba wax enhances the synthesis of pro-collagen and hyaluronic acid and may be beneficial in the treatment of age-related manifestations.
ABSTRACT
BACKGROUND: Skin aging manifestation, such as coarse wrinkles, loss of elasticity, pigmentation, and rough-textured appearance, is a multifactorial process that can be exacerbated by air pollution, smoking, poor nutrition, and sun exposure. Exposure to UV radiation is considered the primary cause of extrinsic skin aging and accounts for about 80% of facial aging. Extrinsic skin aging signs can be reduced with demo-cosmetic formulations. Both cannabidiol (CBD) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) have been previously suggested as potent active dermatological ingredients. AIMS: The objective of the current research was to evaluate the compatibility of both agents in the prevention and treatment of skin aging. First, the impact of both agents was assessed using standard photoaging models of UV-induced damage, both in vitro (HaCaT cells) and ex vivo (human skin organ culture). Then, a clinical validation study (n = 33) was performed using an optimized topical cream formulation tested at different time points (up to Day 56). RESULTS: EPA was found to potentiate the protective effects of CBD by reducing the secretion of prostaglandin E2 (PGE2 ) and interleukin-8 (IL-8), two primary inflammatory agents associated with photoaging. In addition, a qualitative histological examination signaled that applying the cream may result in an increase in extracellular matrix (ECM) remodeling following UV radiation. This was also evidenced clinically by a reduction of crow's feet wrinkle area and volume, as well as a reduction of fine line wrinkle volume as measured by the AEVA system. The well-established age-dependent subepidermal low-echogenic band (SLEB) was also reduced by 8.8%. Additional clinical results showed significantly reduced red spots area and count, and an increase in skin hydration and elasticity by 31.2% and 25.6% following 56 days of cream application, respectively. These impressive clinical results correlated with high satisfaction ratings by the study participants. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS: Collectively, the results show a profound anti-aging impact of the developed formulation and strengthen the beneficial derm-cosmetic properties of CBD-based products.
