The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention.

BACKGROUND: Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies. The relationships between muscular strength and climbing performance, as well as the role of strength in injury prevention, remain to be fully elucidated. This narrative review seeks to discuss the current literature regarding the effect of resistance training in improving maximal strength, muscle hypertrophy, muscular power, and local muscular endurance on climbing performance, and as a strategy to prevent injuries. MAIN BODY: Since sport climbing requires exerting forces against gravity to maintain grip and move the body along the route, it is generally accepted that a climber`s absolute and relative muscular strength are important for climbing performance. Performance characteristics of forearm flexor muscles (hang-time on ledge, force output, rate of force development, and oxidative capacity) discriminate between climbing performance level, climbing styles, and between climbers and non-climbers. Strength of the hand and wrist flexors, shoulders and upper limbs has gained much attention in the scientific literature, and it has been suggested that both general and specific strength training should be part of a climber`s training program. Furthermore, the ability to generate sub-maximal force in different work-rest ratios has proved useful, in examining finger flexor endurance capacity while trying to mimic real-world climbing demands. Importantly, fingers and shoulders are the most frequent injury locations in climbing. Due to the high mechanical stress and load on the finger flexors, fingerboard and campus board training should be limited in lower-graded climbers. Coaches should address, acknowledge, and screen for amenorrhea and disordered eating in climbers. CONCLUSION: Structured low-volume high-resistance training, twice per week hanging from small ledges or a fingerboard, is a feasible approach for climbers. The current injury prevention training aims to increase the level of performance through building tolerance to performance-relevant load exposure and promoting this approach in the climbing field.

Muscle Cooling Before and in the Middle of a Session: There Are Benefits on Subsequent Localized Endurance Performance in a Warm Environment.

ABSTRACT: Balás, J, Kodejska, J, Procházková, A, Knap, R, and Tufano, JJ. Muscle cooling before and in the middle of a session: there are benefits on subsequent localized endurance performance in a warm environment. J Strength Cond Res 38(3): 533-539, 2024-Localized cold-water immersion (CWI) has been shown to facilitate recovery in the middle of a session of exhaustive repeated forearm contractions. However, it has been suggested that these benefits may be attributed to "precooling" the muscle before an activity, as opposed to cooling a previously overheated muscle. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how precooling and mid-cooling affects localized repeated muscular endurance performance in a warm environment. Nineteen subjects completed a familiarization session and 3 laboratory visits, each including 2 exhaustive climbing trials separated by 20 minutes of recovery: PRE CWI (CWI, trial 1; passive sitting [PAS], trial 2); MID CWI (PAS, trial 1; CWI, trial 2); and CONTROL (PAS, trial 1; PAS, trial 2). Climbing trial 1 in PRE CWI was 32 seconds longer than in CONTROL ( p = 0.013; d = 0.46) and 47 seconds longer than in MID CWI ( p = 0.001; d = 0.81). The time of climbing trial 2 after PAS (PRE CWI and CONTROL) was very similar (312 vs. 319 seconds) irrespective of the first trial condition. However, the time of the second trial in MID CWI was 43 seconds longer than in PRE CWI ( p < 0.001; d = 0.63) and 50 seconds longer than in CONTROL ( p < 0.001; d = 0.69). In warm environments, muscle precooling and mid-cooling can prolong localized endurance performance during climbing. However, the effectiveness of mid-cooling may not be as a "recovery strategy" but as a "precooling" strategy to decrease muscle temperature before subsequent performance, delaying the onset of localized heat-induced neuromuscular fatigue.

Comparing low volume of blood flow restricted to high-intensity resistance training of the finger flexors to maintain climbing-specific strength and endurance: a crossover study.

Introduction: It is acknowledged that training during recovery periods after injury involves reducing both volume and intensity, often resulting in losses of sport-specific fitness. Therefore, this study aimed to compare the effects of high-intensity training (HIT) and low-intensity training with blood flow restriction (LIT + BFR) of the finger flexors in order to preserve climbing-specific strength and endurance. Methods: In a crossover design, thirteen intermediate climbers completed two 5-week periods of isometric finger flexors training on a hangboard. The trainings consisted of ten LIT + BFR (30% of max) or HIT sessions (60% of max without BFR) and were undertaken in a randomized order. The training session consisted of 6 unilateral sets of 1 min intermittent hanging at a 7:3 work relief ratio for both hands. Maximal voluntary contraction (MVC), force impulse from the 4 min all out test (W), critical force (CF) and force impulse above the critical force (W') of the finger flexors were assessed before, after the first, and after the second training period, using a climbing-specific dynamometer. Forearm muscle oxidative capacity was estimated from an occlusion test using near-infrared spectroscopy at the same time points. Results: Both training methods led to maintaining strength and endurance indicators, however, no interaction (P > 0.05) was found between the training methods for any strength or endurance variable. A significant increase (P = 0.002) was found for W, primarily driven by the HIT group (pretest-25078 ± 7584 N.s, post-test-27327 ± 8051 N.s, P = 0.012, Cohen's d = 0.29). There were no significant (P > 0.05) pre- post-test changes for MVC (HIT: Cohen's d = 0.13; LIT + BFR: Cohen's d = -0.10), CF (HIT: Cohen's d = 0.36; LIT + BFR = 0.05), W` (HIT: Cohen's d = -0.03, LIT + BFR = 0.12), and forearm muscle oxidative capacity (HIT: Cohen's d = -0.23; LIT + BFR: Cohen's d = -0.07). Conclusions: Low volume of BFR and HIT led to similar results, maintaining climbing-specific strength and endurance in lower grade and intermediate climbers. It appears that using BFR training may be an alternative approach after finger injury as low mechanical impact occurs during training.

Handedness, Bilateral, and Interdigit Strength Asymmetries in Male Climbers.

PURPOSE: To determine whether there are bilateral and interdigit differences in the maximal force production of experienced climbers and whether these differences are mediated by ability level or preferred style of climbing. METHODS: Thirty-six male climbers (age 30 [9.4] y) took part in a single-session trial to test their maximal force production on both hands. The tests included a one-arm maximal isometric finger flexor strength test (MIFS) and a one-arm individual MIFS. Bilateral differences were analyzed by strongest hand (defined as the hand that produced the highest MIFS value) and dominance (defined as the writing hand). RESULTS: A pairwise t test found that MIFS was significantly greater for the strongest hand (mean difference = 4.1%, 95% CI, -0.052 to 0.029, P < .001), with handedness explaining 89% of the variation. A 2-way mixed-model analysis of variance determined that there were no interactions between preferred style (bouldering or sport climbing) and MIFS or between ability level (advanced or elite) and MIFS. CONCLUSIONS: Climbers have significant finger flexor strength bilateral asymmetries between their strongest and weakest hand. Moreover, when dominance is controlled, this difference in strength is present, with the dominant hand producing more force. Neither preferred style of climbing nor the ability level of the climbers could explain these asymmetries. As such, practitioners should consider regularly monitoring unilateral strength, aiming to minimize the likelihood of large bilateral asymmetry occurring.

Metabolic demands of slacklining in less and more advanced slackliners.

Walking or balancing on a slackline has gained increasing popularity as a recreational and school sport, and has been found to be suitable for developing neuromuscular control. The metabolic requirements for neuromuscular control on slackline, however, have not been well described. Therefore, the aim of the study was to determine the metabolic demands of slacklining in less and more advanced slackliners. Nineteen slackliners performed several 4 min balance tasks: parallel and one-leg stance on stable platform (2LS and 1LS), 1 leg stance on a slackline (1LSS), walking at a self-selected speed and at a given speed of 15 m min-1 on a slackline (WSS and WGS). Expired gas samples were collected for all participants and activities using a portable metabolic system. During1 LS and 1LSS, there were 140% and 341% increases in oxygen uptake (V̇O2) with respect to V̇O2 rest, respectively. During slackline walking, V̇O2 increased by 460% and 444% at self-selected and given speed, respectively. More advanced slackliners required mean metabolic demands 0.377 ± 0.065 and 0.289 ± 0.050 kJ·kg-1·min-1 (5.7 ± 0.95 and 3.9 ± 0.6 MET) for WGS and 1LSS, respectively, whilst less advanced slackliners, 0.471 ± 0.081 and 0.367 ± 0.086 kJ·kg-1·min-1 (6.4 ± 1.2 and 5.0 ± 1.1 MET) for WGS and 1LSS, respectively. Our data suggest that balancing tasks on slackline require V̇O2 corresponding to exercise intensities from light to moderate intensity. More advanced slackliners had a ∼25% reduced energy expenditure when compared with lower ability counterparts during simple balance tasks on the slackline.HighlightsBalancing on a slackline is metabolically demanding and slackline training is suitable not only to develop neuromuscular control but also to meet cardiovascular fitness demands.Improved postural control demonstrated by skilled slackliners reduces by ∼25% metabolic cost of balancing tasks on a slackline when compared to less skilled counterparts.Falls during slacklining increase the metabolic demands of the activity. Three falls per minute during walking on a slackline increase the oxygen uptake by ∼50%.

Comparison of finger flexor resistance training, with and without blood flow restriction, on perceptional and physiological responses in advanced climbers.

This study compared perceptional and physiological responses of finger flexor exercise performed with free flow and blood flow restriction (BFR). Thirteen male advanced climbers completed three sessions of finger flexor resistance exercise at (1) 40% of MVC (Low) and (2) 75% of MVC (High) and (3) BFR at 40% of MVC (Low + BFR) in a randomized and counterbalanced order. Rate of perceived exertion for effort (RPE) and discomfort (RPD), session pleasure/displeasure (sPDF), exercise enjoyment (EES), lactate concentration and oxygen saturation were recorded after the last set. Both low-intensity sessions induced higher RPD than High (p = 0.018-0.022, ES = 1.01-1.09) and High was perceived as more enjoyable than Low-BFR (p = 0.031, ES = 1.08). No differences were found for RPE or sPDF (p = 0.132-0.804). Lactate was elevated more after High than the Low-sessions (p < 0.001, ES = 1.88-2.08). Capillary oxygen saturation was lower after Low + BFR compared to the other sessions (p = 0.031, ES = 1.04-1.27). Finally, the exercise volume was greater in Low compared to High (p = 0.022, ES = 1.14) and Low + BFR (p = 0.020, ES = 0.77). In conclusion, among advanced male climbers, performing Low + BFR led to a similar exercise volume but was perceived as more discomforting and less enjoyable compared to High. The Low session yielded similar responses as the Low + BFR but required a much greater exercise volume.

Performance Assessment for Rock Climbers: The International Rock Climbing Research Association Sport-Specific Test Battery.

PURPOSE: To examine the validity and reliability of a battery of 10 measures designed to assess the key physiological parameters for successful rock climbing performance. METHODS: In phase 1 of the research, an expert panel, using the Delphi method, established a 10-item test battery based on the key determinants of climbing performance. In phase 2, the tests were assessed for validity and reliability to examine their suitability as sport-specific measures of rock climbing performance. A total of 132 rock climbers, from 7 countries, volunteered to take part in the study. Each climber visited their nearest laboratory on 3 separate occasions in order to enable the required tests and retests to be completed. A minimum of 7 days was allowed between visits. RESULTS: The 10 tests established for phase 2 were designed as sport-specific measures of flexibility, strength, power, and endurance. Results indicated that, while reliable, the flexibility and strength tests were only partially successful in differentiating across climber abilities. The power and endurance tests, however, performed well with regard to validity and reliability, with the finger hang and powerslap tests being most strongly correlated with performance ability (P < .0005 to P < .002). CONCLUSION: The authors' data suggest that climbing may require a threshold level of flexibility and strength for successful performance, beyond which further improvements may not be required. In contrast, the finger hang and powerslap tests were not only reliable measures but also differentiated between climber abilities from lower grade to elite levels.

Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

PURPOSE: Sport climbing requires high-intensity finger flexor contractions, along with a substantial whole-body systemic oxygen uptake ([Formula: see text]O2) contribution. Although fatigue is often localised to the finger flexors, the role of systemic ̇[Formula: see text]O2 and local aerobic mechanisms in climbing performance remains unclear. As such, the primary purpose of this study was to determine systemic and local muscle oxygen responses during both isolated finger flexion and incremental exhaustive whole-body climbing tests. The secondary aim was to determine the relationship of isolated and whole-body climbing endurance tests to climbing ability. METHODS: Twenty-two male sport climbers completed a series of isometric sustained and intermittent forearm flexor contractions, and an exhaustive climbing test with progressive steepening of the wall angle on a motorised climbing ergometer. Systemic [Formula: see text]O2 and flexor digitorum profundus oxygen saturation (StO2) were recorded using portable metabolic analyser and near-infra red spectroscopy, respectively. RESULTS: Muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) was identifiable during an incremental exhaustive climbing test with progressive increases in angle (82 ± 8% and 88 ± 8% [Formula: see text]O2 and heart rate climbing peak). The peak angle from whole-body treadwall test and impulse from isolated hangboard endurance tests were interrelated (R2 = 0.58-0.64). Peak climbing angle together with mean [Formula: see text]O2 and StO2 from submaximal climbing explained 83% of variance in self-reported climbing ability. CONCLUSIONS: Both systemic and muscle oxygen kinetics determine climbing-specific endurance. Exhaustive climbing and isolated finger flexion endurance tests are interrelated and suitable to assess climbing-specific endurance. An exhaustive climbing test with progressive wall angle allows determination of the MOB.

Psychophysiological responses to treadwall and indoor wall climbing in adult female climbers.

The purpose of the study was to compare the psychophysiological response of climbers of a range of abilities (lower grade to advanced) when ascending identical climbing routes on a climbing wall and a rotating treadwall. Twenty-two female climbers (31.2 ± 9.4 years; 60.5 ± 6.5 kg; 168.6 ± 5.7 cm) completed two identical 18 m climbing trials (graded 4 on the French Sport scale) separated by 1 week, one on the treadwall (climbing low to the ground) and the other on the indoor wall (climbing in height). Indirect calorimetry, venous blood samples and video-analysis were used to assess energy cost, hormonal response and time-load characteristics. Energy costs were higher during indoor wall climbing comparing to those on the treadwall by 16% (P < 0.001, [Formula: see text] = 0.48). No interaction of climbing ability and climbing condition were found. However, there was an interaction for climbing ability and post-climbing catecholamine concentration (P < 0.01, [Formula: see text] = 0.28). Advanced climbers' catecholamine response increased by 238% and 166% with respect to pre-climb values on the treadwall and indoor wall, respectively; while lower grade climbers pre-climb concentrations were elevated by 281% and 376% on the treadwall and indoor wall, respectively. The video analysis showed no differences in any time-motion variables between treadwall and indoor wall climbing. The study demonstrated a greater metabolic response for indoor wall climbing, however, the exact mechanisms are not yet fully understood.

Ergogenic effects of lifting straps on movement velocity, grip strength, perceived exertion and grip security during the deadlift exercise.

It is possible that during resistance training, a weak link in the kinetic chain could possibly result in under-stimulated prime movers. Since grip strength can be a limiting factor during multiple sets of various pulling exercises such as deadlifts, it is important to determine how lifting straps can affect mechanical performance, grip strength, perceived exertion and perceived grip security and power. Sixteen males (24.4 ± 2.3 y; 181.6 ± 5.8 cm; 86.6 ± 8.2 kg) completed three protocols: 4 sets of 4 repetitions without straps using 80% of their without-straps 1-repetition max (DLnn); the same protocol with straps based on their without-straps 1-repetition max (DLwn); and the same with straps based on their with-straps 1-repetitions max (DLww). DLwn allowed for greater mean velocity (MV) and peak velocity (PV) than DLnn and DLww, while MV and PV were greater during DLnn than DLww. The magnitude of grip fatigue was lower during DLwn and DLww than DLn. Perceived grip security and power were greater during DLwn and DLww compared to DLn. Perceived exertion was lower during DLwn than DLnn and DLww. These findings suggest that the use of lifting straps during deadlifts allows for a better maintenance of grip strength, faster grip strength recovery following training, and greater perceived grip security and power than deadlifts performed without lifting straps, while also increasing mechanical performance and decreasing the perceived exertion. Therefore, the ergogenic potential of the lifting straps has important training implications and should be considered during RT involving the deadlift exercise and possibly other pulling exercises.

The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State.

Purpose: Sport climbing is a technical, self-paced sport, and the workload is highly variable and mainly localized to the forearm flexors. It has not proved effective to control intensity using measures typical of other sports, such as gas exchange thresholds, heart rate, or blood lactate. Therefore, the purposes of the study were to (1) determine the possibility of applying the mathematical model of critical power to the estimation of a critical angle (CA) as a measure of maximal metabolic steady state in climbing and (2) to compare this intensity with the muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) determined during an exhaustive climbing task. Materials and Methods: Twenty-seven sport climbers undertook three to five exhaustive ascents on a motorized treadwall at differing angles to estimate CA, and one exhaustive climbing test with a progressive increase in angle to determine MOB, assessed using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS). Results: Model fit for estimated CA was very high (R 2 = 0.99; SEE = 1.1°). The mean peak angle during incremental test was -17 ± 5°, and CA from exhaustive trials was found at -2.5 ± 3.8°. Nine climbers performing the ascent 2° under CA were able to sustain the task for 20 min with perceived exertion at 12.1 ± 1.9 (RPE). However, climbing 2° above CA led to task failure after 15.9 ± 3.0 min with RPE = 16.4 ± 1.9. When MOB was plotted against estimated CA, good agreement was stated (ICC = 0.80, SEM = 1.5°). Conclusion: Climbers, coaches, and researchers may use a predefined route with three to five different wall angles to estimate CA as an analog of critical power to determine a maximal metabolic steady state in climbing. Moreover, a climbing test with progressive increases in wall angle using MOB also appears to provide a valid estimate of CA.

New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers.

Anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) may improve forearm muscle oxygenation and enhance performance in high-level rock climbers. As such, using a double-blind, randomised, cross-over design study, twelve participants performed an oxidative capacity assessment, and two successive exhaustive exercise trials (submaximal forearm muscle contractions at 60% of their maximal volitional contraction). Each visit was conducted following 7-days intake of 600 mg·day-1 NZBC extract or placebo. Oxidative capacity was estimated by calculating the oxygen half time recovery using near infrared spectroscopy. Time to exhaustion (s), impulse (kg·s), and minimum tissue saturation index (min-TSI %) were assessed during both the exercise trials. Muscle oxidative capacity was greater with NZBC (mean difference [MD] = 5.3 s, 95% confidence intervals [95% CI] = 0.4-10.2 s; p = 0.036; Cohen's d = 0.94). During the exercise trials, there was an interaction for min-TSI % (time x condition, p = 0.046; ηp2 = 0.372), which indicated a greater level of oxygen extraction during trial two with NZBC extract (MD = 9%, 95% CI = 2-15%) compared to the placebo (MD = 2%, 95% CI = 1-7%). There was a decrease in time to exhaustion (p <0.001, ηp2 = 0.693) and impulse (p = 0.001, ηp2 = 0.672) in exercise trial two, with no effect of NZBC extract. In high-level rock climbers 7-days NZBC extract improves forearm muscle oxygenation with no effect on isolated forearm muscle performance.

The Effect of Traditional and Stabilization-Oriented Exercises on Deep Stabilization System Function in Elite Futsal Players.

BACKGROUND: This study aimed to compare the effect of traditional and stability-oriented strength exercises on trunk stability and deep stabilization system (DSS) activation in elite futsal players. METHODS: Twenty elite futsal players (21-34 years, 180 ± 13 cm, 79 ± 15 kg) were randomly divided into a group that performed stability-oriented exercises and a group that performed traditional strength exercises. Both interventions lasted for 10 weeks and included 25 strength training sessions. MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES: The DSS pretest and posttest included the diaphragm test, trunk flexion test, back extension test, hip flexion test, intraabdominal pressure test, and a side plank test on a 1-5 point scale. RESULTS: Both groups had similar initial test results, where the stability-oriented exercise group had significantly improved intraabdominal pressure test (p = 0.004, by lower quartile rate), trunk flexion (p = 0.036, by 0.5 grade in median), and side plank (p = 0.002, by 1 grade in median) in posttest results. Traditional exercise did not change the results of any of the included DSS function tests. CONCLUSIONS: Stabilization-oriented exercises effectively activate the functions of the DSS and should be prioritized over traditional strength exercises in injury prevention training programs. The use of stabilization-oriented exercises might prevent injury and overloading in elite futsal players.

Effect of Height on Perceived Exertion and Physiological Responses for Climbers of Differing Ability Levels.

PURPOSE: The purpose of this study was to examine differences in perceived exertion (RPE) and physiological responses for climbers of different abilities completing an identical route low and high above the ground. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Forty-two male (N = 18) and female (N = 24) sport climbers divided into three groups, lower-grade (N = 14), intermediate (N = 14), and advanced climbers (N = 14), completed two visits to a climbing gym, separated by 7 days. In a random order, the climbers completed a close-to-the-ground ascent (treadwall) and climb to height (climbing gym). Immediately after the test, climbers provided their RPE (6-20). Indirect calorimetry was used to assess physiological response during the ascent and recovery. RESULTS: The mean (±standard deviation) RPE was higher for lower-grade climbers when ascending the route on the wall (RPE = 12 ± 1) when compared to the treadwall route (RPE = 11 ± 1, P = 0.040; d = 0.41). For all ability groups, the physiological response was higher on the climbing gym wall as opposed to the treadwall: ventilation (P = 0.003, η p 2 = 0.199), heart rate (HR) (P = 0.005, η p 2 = 0.189), energy cost (EC) (P = 0.000, η p 2 = 0.501). The RPE demonstrated a moderate relationship with physiological variables (R 2 = 0.14 to R 2 = 0.45). CONCLUSION: Climbing to height induced a greater metabolic stress than climbing at a low height (treadwall) and led to higher RPE for lower-grade climbers. In this study, RPE appeared to be a good proxy measure of the physiological demands for advanced climbers but not for intermediate and lower-grade climbers. Therefore, using RPE in climbing with less experienced athletes may perhaps overestimate actual exercise intensity and should be interpreted carefully.

Males benefit more from cold water immersion during repeated handgrip contractions than females despite similar oxygen kinetics.

The purpose of the present study was to assess the effect of different water immersion temperatures on handgrip performance and haemodynamic changes in the forearm flexors of males and females. Twenty-nine rock-climbers performed three repeated intermittent handgrip contractions to failure with 20 min recovery on three separate laboratory visits. For each visit, a randomly assigned recovery strategy was applied: cold water immersion (CWI) at 8 °C (CW8), 15 °C (CW15) or passive recovery (PAS). While handgrip performance significantly decreased in the subsequent trials for the PAS (p < 0.05), there was a significant increase in time to failure for the second and third trial for CW15 and in the second trial for CW8; males having greater performance improvement (44%) after CW15 than females (26%). The results indicate that CW15 was a more tolerable and effective recovery strategy than CW8 and the same CWI protocol may lead to different recovery in males and females.

The Reliability of Parkour Skills Assessment.

The aim of the study was to determine the reliability of parkour skills assessment in field conditions. Twenty young men completed three trials of a parkour obstacle course on two separate days. The tested group consisted of 10 beginners (age 16 ± 1 years, body mass = 65 ± 12 kg, height = 177 ± 7 cm) and 10 advanced traceurs (age 18 ± 2 years, body mass = 68 ± 14 kg, height = 178 ± 6 cm). The performance was video-recorded and subsequently analyzed by three raters (total score 0⁻45). Median and percentiles were used to characterize results from all sessions by all raters. Inter-rater, intra-session and inter-session reliability were assessed using Krippendorff's α for ordinal data. The Mann-Whitney test was used to assess the differences between beginners and advanced traceurs. Advanced traceurs obtained a total score from 41 to 44 whilst beginners achieved 27 to 33 points. Krippendorff's α for total score ranged from 0.910 to 0.916 between raters, 0.828 to 0.874 between trials, and from 0.839 to 0.924 between days. The proposed parkour course differentiated two different ability levels and the skills assessment demonstrated excellent reliability between raters, trials, and days.

Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing.

PURPOSE: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability. METHODS: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90°) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180° and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF. RESULTS: The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r2 = .48 and r2 = .42 for sport climbing; r2 = .66 and r2 = .42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC] = 0.94, ICC = 0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 ± 112 N) than without AF (546 ± 132 N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC = 0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r2 = .42) and bouldering ability (r2 = .58). CONCLUSION: Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.