Impact of Acid ("Progressive Brush") and Alkaline Straightening on the Hair Fiber: Differential Effects on the Cuticle and Cortex Properties.

Background: Glyoxylic acid has emerged as a safe alternative to formol (formaldehyde) use as a hair straightener/relaxer. However, the possible damage to the hair fiber after its application is low known and/or published in the literature. Aims: This work aims to characterize hair locks treated with glyoxylic acid compared to traditional alkaline straighteners such as sodium and guanidine hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate. Materials and Methods: The morphology of the hair cuticles was observed by scanning electron microscopy. Protein loss was assessed by the Lowry method modified by Peterson and as mechanical properties that were expressed in terms of tensile strength. Results: All products (sodium and guanidine hydroxides and ammonium thioglycolate) caused protein loss of about 2.5 µg/g, except glyoxylic acid that caused the worst damage (3.5 µg/g), in relation to the untreated (virgin) hair (1.12 µg/g), indicating that the chemical treatments can cause hair damage in both cuticles and cortex. The force to break the fibers treated with traditional straighteners based on sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide, and ammonium thioglycolate was statistically the same. Conclusion: The treatment with glyoxylic acid showed rupture tensile statistically equivalent to the alkaline straighteners. The mechanism of action of glyoxylic acid does not appear to be based on breaking and rearrangement of disulfide bridges, but altered them, that influenced the hair strength. However, it is also essential to consider other factors relevant: technical application technique, reaction time, and interval of reapplication of the product, as this can change the pattern of the results obtained.

Protective effect of conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye.

BACKGROUND: Hair coloring is broadly used by women and men either to change their natural hair color or to delay the onset of gray hair. Oxidative dyes may damage the hair, as chemical and physical processes are required to convert the fiber structure and, consequently, alterations in its mechanical and surface properties. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of silanetriol (and) Panthenol, PEG-12 dimethicone, and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose as conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye by protein loss, combability, and breaking strength. METHODS: In this research, we analyzed the untreated hair (sample I) and the effect of oxidative hair dye emulsions, with or without conditioner agents (sample II) silanetriol (and) Panthenol (sample III), PEG-12 dimethicone (sample IV), and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose (sample V) on Caucasian hair. The hair samples were submitted to protein loss quantification, breaking strength, and combing analysis. RESULTS: For protein loss, the results were: IIa  = Va  > IVb  > IIIc  > Id . For the breaking strength: Ie  = IIe  = IIIe  = IVe  = Ve . For the combing analysis for wet and dry hair, the results were, respectively: IIa  > IIIb  = IVb  > Vc  > Id and IIA  > IIIb  = Vb  > IV c = Ic . Data classified by different letters presented statistically significant alterations, α = 5, P ≤ . 05, n = 15. CONCLUSIONS: Based on these results, the incorporation of conditioner agents into emulsion blond color decreased the damage caused by the coloring process.

Influence of different cosmetic vehicles in mechanical and physical properties of hair treated with oxidative hair dyes

ABSTRACT Hair care products play a significant role in the cosmetic market and aim at improving hair brightness, breakage resistance, and color change. In this study, we analyzed the possibility of the formulation of oxidative dyes in different vehicles impacting the hair's both mechanical and physical properties. Light brown and light blond dyes were prepared using eight different vehicles. Among these, four vehicles were emulsifying agents and four gelling agents. Each formulation was applied to two types of virgin Caucasian hair (light blond and dark brown). Physical, chemical, and organoleptic properties of each formulation were assessed, as well as changes in hair parameters after oxidative dyeing, such as staining intensity, brightness, and breaking strength. The parameters of color and brightness differed in some formulations, but the hair type also responded differently. Brightness parameter was increased in dark brown hair colored with both dyes, whereas light blond hair showed the opposite result. Regarding the breaking strength, there were no significant differences between the two kinds of tresses. Cosmetic formulations should adjust the consumer desired effects (e.g. color change) in order to present minimal drawbacks (e.g. decrease of hair brightness and strength). Thus, the study of different vehicles is important when establishing the best oxidative dye formulation.

Optical coherence tomography to evaluate the effects of oxidative hair dye on the fiber.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Oxidative hair dyes can damage the hair, since these chemical procedures are involved to change the fiber structure and therefore changes in their mechanical and surface properties. Evaluate and compare the effect of the two colors of oxidative hair dye emulsions on Caucasian hair. This research analyzed the Dark brown hair untreated (I); Dark brown hair treated with light brown dye (II); Dark brown hair treated with light blond dye (III); Light blond hair untreated (IV); Light blond hair treated with light brown dye (V); Light blond hair treated with light blond dye (VI) on Caucasian hair. METHODS: The hair samples were submitted to breaking strength, color, and optical coherence tomography (OCT) analysis. RESULTS: For the breaking strength assay no presented statistically significant differences between treatments. The parameters of color and brightness can differ in some hair dye formulations, but also the hair type can respond differently. The OCT images of the sample I and IV was possible observed, clearly Medulla and Cortex, which was not observed clearly after treatment with both oxidative hair dye colors. CONCLUSION: Based on the results, the oxidative hair dyes increased alteration in color and ultrastructure of hair.

Protein loss in human hair from combination straightening and coloring treatments.

BACKGROUND: Hair chemical treatments, such as dyeing and straightening products, are known to cause damage that can be assessed by protein loss. OBJECTIVES: The aim of this study was to evaluate the hair protein loss caused by combined chemical treatments (dye and relaxer) using the validated bicinchoninic acid (BCA) method. Three kinds of straighteners, based on ammonium thioglycolate, guanidine hydroxide and sodium hydroxide, were evaluated and the least harmful combination indicated. METHODS: Caucasian virgin dark brown hair tresses were treated with developed natural brown color oxidative hair dyeing and/or straightening commercial products based on ammonium thioglycolate, sodium hydroxide, or guanidine hydroxide. Protein loss quantification was assessed by the validated BCA method which has several advantages for quantifying protein loss in chemically treated hair. RESULTS: When both treatments (straightening and dyeing) were combined, a higher negative effect was observed, particularly for dyed hair treated with sodium hydroxide. In this case, a 356% increase in protein loss relative to virgin hair was observed and 208% in relation to only dyed hair. The combination of dying and relaxers based on ammonium thioglycolate or guanidine hydroxide caused a small increase in protein loss, suggesting that these straightening products could be the best alternatives for individuals wishing to combine both treatments. CONCLUSIONS: These results indicated that when application of both types of products is desired, ammonium thioglycolate or guanidine hydroxide should be chosen for the straightening process.

Auricular chromoblastomycosis: a case report and review of published literature.

Subcutaneous chromoblastomycosis is an infection commonly seen in tropical and subtropical climates, usually caused by trauma with vegetables and often affects the host's lower limbs. We report a case of auricular chromoblastomycosis in a 67-year-old man and discuss the rarity of this clinical manifestation of chromoblastomycosis in the medical literature. In the present case, the etiologic agent was Fonsecaea pedrosoi, the most common agent found in Brazil.

Hair casts or pseudonits.

Hair casts or pseudonits are thin, elongated, cylindrical concretions that encircle the hair shaft and can be easily dislodged. A case of pseudonits in a 9-year-old girl is reported. Though not unusual, false diagnoses are common.

Fractal dimension of chromatin is an independent prognostic factor for survival in melanoma.

BACKGROUND: Prognostic factors in malignant melanoma are currently based on clinical data and morphologic examination. Other prognostic features, however, which are not yet used in daily practice, might add important information and thus improve prognosis, treatment, and survival. Therefore a search for new markers is desirable. Previous studies have demonstrated that fractal characteristics of nuclear chromatin are of prognostic importance in neoplasias. We have therefore investigated whether the fractal dimension of nuclear chromatin measured in routine histological preparations of malignant melanomas could be a prognostic factor for survival. METHODS: We examined 71 primary superficial spreading cutaneous melanoma specimens (thickness > or = 1 mm) from patients with a minimum follow up of 5 years. Nuclear area, form factor and fractal dimension of chromatin texture were obtained from digitalized images of hematoxylin-eosin stained tissue micro array sections. Clark's level, tumor thickness and mitotic rate were also determined. RESULTS: The median follow-up was 104 months. Tumor thickness, Clark's level, mitotic rate, nuclear area and fractal dimension were significant risk factors in univariate Cox regressions. In the multivariate Cox regression, stratified for the presence or absence of metastases at diagnosis, only the Clark level and fractal dimension of the nuclear chromatin were included as independent prognostic factors in the final regression model. CONCLUSION: In general, a more aggressive behaviour is usually found in genetically unstable neoplasias with a higher number of genetic or epigenetic changes, which on the other hand, provoke a more complex chromatin rearrangement. The increased nuclear fractal dimension found in the more aggressive melanomas is the mathematical equivalent of a higher complexity of the chromatin architecture. So, there is strong evidence that the fractal dimension of the nuclear chromatin texture is a new and promising variable in prognostic models of malignant melanomas.

Vitiligo / Vitiligo

O vitiligo é doença de pele de causa desconhecida que acomete cerca de 1 por cento da população, comprometendo de modo semelhante homens e mulheres, preferencialmente entre 10 e 30 anos de idade. Alguns fatores precipitantes para essa doença são: estresse físico e emocional, traumas mecânicos e substâncias químicas, como derivados do fenol. Doenças auto-imunes, principalmente as tireoidianas, podem estar associadas ao vitiligo. Novas terapias têm sido propostas, como o uso de imunomoduladores tópicos, aliadas àquelas já consolidadas, como os psoralenos e os corticosteróides; o sucesso terapêutico, entretanto, está estritamente relacionado à qualidade da relação médico/paciente.

Acne vulgar / Acne vulgaris

A acne vulgar é afecçäo inflamatória crônica da unidaded pilossebáceca, dee etiologia multifatorial, sendo particularmente comum entre adolescentes e adultos jovens.Pode levar a importante morbidade física e psicológica, devendo-se atentar para o tratamento mais adequado, considerando-se também a prevençäo de sequelas. O tratamento combinado constitui alternativa comum, principalmente nos casos masi avançados da doença. O tratamento tópico envolve agentes queratolíticos, como os retinóides, o ácido azeláico e os alfa-hidroxiacidos e os bactericidas, incluindo antibióticos como clindamicina e eritromicina, além do peróxido de benzoíla. Já a terapia oral está centrada no uso da isotretinoína, principalmente na acne severa e resistente a tratamentos anteriores, pela excelente melhora do quadro e segurança no uso, comprovados ao longo de mais de 20 anos de estudo. Antibióticos sistêmicos, ,anticoncepcionais orais e antiandrogênicos também constituem alternativas eficazes na terapia oral. Cicatrizes também podem ser tratadas por técnicas mais recentes, como o resurfacing com laser dee CO2 e o preenchimento, além da dermabrasäo e do uso do punch. Diante do enorme arsenal terapêutico, cabe ao dermatologista a escolha do melhor método a seu paciente, o que constitui hoje o grande desafio no tratamento da acne vulgar.(au)