The biology of human hair: A multidisciplinary review.

In the last century, human scalp hair morphology has been studied from multiple, and sometimes mutually exclusive, perspectives by anthropologists, biologists, geneticists, forensic scientists, and cosmetic scientists. Here, we review and synthesize historical and current research on hair to better understand the scientific basis and biological implications of hair microstructure and morphology. We revisit the origins of existing nomenclature regarding hair morphology and classifications, discuss the currently recognized limitations to hair analysis within the varied scientific disciplines studying hair, point out aspects of hair biology that remain unknown, and the great potential for integrating these diverse perspectives and expertise in future scientific investigations, while highlighting the benefits of combining nondestructive microscopical analysis with chemical and genomic analyses for explicating hair biology. Further, we propose consensus terminology for root growth stages through descriptions and images that will aid in the morphological and microscopical analysis of human scalp hair, thereby reducing confusion and the promulgation of inaccurate information that is presently in the literature.

Age-related evolutions of the dermis: Clinical signs, fibroblast and extracellular matrix dynamics.

Ageing is today a major societal concern that is intrinsically associated with the increase of life expectancy. Outside the context of severe degenerative diseases that affect the elderly populations, normal visible signs of ageing, notably skin sagging and wrinkles, influence the social and individual perception of peoples. Accordingly, there is a strong demand for researches on skin ageing. Deciphering the cellular and molecular processes of skin evolution through ageing is thus an active scientific domain, at the frontier of tissue developmental and ageing biology. The focus of the present article is to provide an overview of the current knowledge concerning the evolution of dermis characteristics at different life stages, from intra-uterine to post-natal life. The description will integrate stage-specific and age-related changes in dermis characteristics at the tissue, cell, and molecular levels.

The hair follicle enigma.

The hair follicle is a mini-organ endowed with a unique structure and cyclic behaviour. Despite the intense research efforts which have been devoted at deciphering the hair follicle biology over the past 70 years, one must admit that hair follicle remains an enigma. In this brief review, various aspects of hair follicle biology will be addressed, and more importantly, unsolved questions and new possible research tracks will be highlighted, including hair follicle glycobiology and exosome-mediated cell-cell interactions. Even though bricks of knowledge are solidly being acquired, an integrative picture remains to emerge. One can predict that computer science, algorithms and bioinformatics will assist in fostering our understanding hair biology.

The skin aging exposome.

The term "exposome" describes the totality of exposures to which an individual is subjected from conception to death. It includes both external and internal factors as well as the human body's response to these factors. Current exposome research aims to understand the effects all factors have on specific organs, yet today, the exposome of human skin has not received major attention and a corresponding definition is lacking. This review was compiled with the collaboration of European scientists, specialized in either environmental medicine or skin biology. A comprehensive review of the existing literature was performed using PubMed. The search was restricted to exposome factors and skin aging. Key review papers and all relevant, epidemiological, in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies were analyzed to determine the key elements of the exposome influencing skin aging. Here we propose a definition of the skin aging exposome. It is based on a summary of the existing scientific evidence for the role of exposome factors in skin aging. We also identify future research needs which concern knowledge about the interaction of distinct exposomal factors with each other and the resulting net effects on skin aging and suggest some protective measures.

Keratin network modifications lead to the mechanical stiffening of the hair follicle fiber.

The complex mechanical properties of biomaterials such as hair, horn, skin, or bone are determined by the architecture of the underlying fibrous bionetworks. Although much is known about the influence of the cytoskeleton on the mechanics of isolated cells, this has been less studied in tridimensional tissues. We used the hair follicle as a model to link changes in the keratin network composition and architecture to the mechanical properties of the nascent hair. We show using atomic force microscopy that the soft keratinocyte matrix at the base of the follicle stiffens by a factor of ∼360, from 30 kPa to 11 MPa along the first millimeter of the follicle. The early mechanical stiffening is concomitant to an increase in diameter of the keratin macrofibrils, their continuous compaction, and increasingly parallel orientation. The related stiffening of the material follows a power law, typical of the mechanics of nonthermal bending-dominated fiber networks. In addition, we used X-ray diffraction to monitor changes in the (supra)molecular organization within the keratin fibers. At later keratinization stages, the inner mechanical properties of the macrofibrils dominate the stiffening due to the progressive setting up of the cystine network. Our findings corroborate existing models on the sequence of biological and structural events during hair keratinization.

Advances in Understanding Hair Growth.

In this short review, I introduce an integrated vision of human hair follicle behavior and describe opposing influences that control hair follicle homeostasis, from morphogenesis to hair cycling. The interdependence and complementary roles of these influences allow us to propose that the hair follicle is a true paradigm of a "Yin Yang" type, that is a cold/slow-hot/fast duality. Moreover, a new promising field is emerging, suggesting that glycans are key elements of hair follicle growth control.

Analysis of gene expression dynamics revealed delayed and abnormal epidermal repair process in aged compared to young skin.

With aging, epidermal homeostasis and barrier function are disrupted. In a previous study, we analyzed the transcriptomic response of young skin epidermis after stratum corneum removal, and obtained a global kinetic view of the molecular processes involved in barrier function recovery. In the present study, the same analysis was performed in aged skin in order to better understand the defects which occur with aging. Thirty healthy male volunteers (67 ± 4 years old) were involved. Tape-strippings were carried out on the inner face of one forearm, the other unstripped forearm serving as control. At 2, 6, 18, 30 and 72 h after stripping, TEWL measurements were taken, and epidermis samples were collected. Total RNA was extracted and analyzed using DermArray(®) cDNA microarrays. The results highlighted that barrier function recovery and overall kinetics of gene expression were delayed following stripping in aged skin. Indeed, the TEWL measurements showed that barrier recovery in the young group appeared to be dramatically significant during the overall kinetics, while there were no significant evolution in the aged group until 30 h. Moreover, gene expression analysis revealed that the number of modulated genes following tape stripping increased as a function of time and reached a peak at 6 h after tape stripping in young skin, while it was at 30 h in aged skin, showing that cellular activity linked to the repair process may be engaged earlier in young epidermis than in aged epidermis. A total of 370 genes were modulated in the young group. In the aged group, 382 genes were modulated, whose 184 were also modulated in the young group. Only eight genes that were modulated in both groups were significantly differently modulated. The characterization of these genes into 15 functional families helped to draw a scenario for the aging process affecting epidermal repair capacity.

Ageing and colony-forming efficiency of human hair follicle keratinocytes.

The decline of tissue regenerative potential of skin and hair is a hallmark of physiological ageing and may be associated with age-related changes in tissue-specific stem cells and/or their environment. Human hair follicles (hHF) contain keratinocytes having the property of stem cells such as clonogenic potential. Growth capacity of hHF keratinocytes shows that most of the colony-forming cells are classified as holoclones, meroclones or paraclones when analysed in a clonal assay (Cell, Volume 76, page 1063). Despite the well-known impact of ageing on human hair growth, little is known about changes in hHF keratinocyte clonogenic potential with age. This study aimed at assessing the clone-forming efficiency (CFE) of hHF keratinocytes from three age groups of human donors. It demonstrates that ageing affects hHF keratinocyte CFE.

I-SceI-mediated double-strand break does not increase the frequency of homologous recombination at the Dct locus in mouse embryonic stem cells.

Targeted induction of double-strand breaks (DSBs) at natural endogenous loci was shown to increase the rate of gene replacement by homologous recombination in mouse embryonic stem cells. The gene encoding dopachrome tautomerase (Dct) is specifically expressed in melanocytes and their precursors. To construct a genetic tool allowing the replacement of Dct gene by any gene of interest, we generated an embryonic stem cell line carrying the recognition site for the yeast I-SceI meganuclease embedded in the Dct genomic segment. The embryonic stem cell line was electroporated with an I-SceI expression plasmid, and a template for the DSB-repair process that carried sequence homologies to the Dct target. The I-SceI meganuclease was indeed able to introduce a DSB at the Dct locus in live embryonic stem cells. However, the level of gene targeting was not improved by the DSB induction, indicating a limited capacity of I-SceI to mediate homologous recombination at the Dct locus. These data suggest that homologous recombination by meganuclease-induced DSB may be locus dependent in mammalian cells.

Unilateral straight hair and congenital horner syndrome.

Congenital Horner syndrome is a rare disorder that accounts for less than 5% of all cases of Horner syndrome. Like Horner syndrome in general, it consists primarily of ptosis, miosis, and anhidrosis. Congenital Horner syndrome may manifest some special features such as iris heterochromia since the sympathetic nervous system is an essential component for the development and maintenance of eye color. We present 3 cases of unilateral straight hair in association with congenital Horner syndrome in which the patients had straight hair ipsilateral to the Horner syndrome, whereas on the contralateral side, it was curly, and we discuss possible mechanisms for this phenomenon.

The anti-ageing potential of a new jasmonic acid derivative (LR2412): in vitro evaluation using reconstructed epidermis Episkin™.

Jasmonic acid is involved in plant wound repair and tissue regeneration, but no study has been reported in human skin. The effect of a jasmonic acid derivative, tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412, 1 and 10 µm) was investigated on an in vitro reconstructed skin model, Episkin™. Using real time RTQPCR studies, results showed an increase in hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) and hyaluronase synthase 3 (HAS3) expression. Furthermore, an increase in hyaluronic acid (HA) deposits in basal and suprabasal layers of the epidermis was observed. The percentage of positive Ki67 keratinocytes in the basal layer as well as the epidermis thickness were seen to increase. Immunohistochemistry studies showed that the synthesis of late differentiation proteins filaggrin and transglutaminase 1 was not modified. The human epidermis is known to thin with age while HA content has been reported to decrease. These results illustrate the potential of LR2412 in counteracting signs of skin ageing.

The human hair follicle, a bistable organ?

The hair cycle and its control remain today an object of debate. A number of factors, which can modulate this process, have been identified but its choreography remains elusive. For years, the hunt for the conductor has been on, but nobody ever caught him. Intuitively, the process being considered as cyclic, an automaton controlling this cycle should be looked for, by analogy with a clock. However, the putative hair follicle oscillator that would control hair cycle failed to be identified and characterized. In fact, we have revealed that human hair follicle has an autonomous behaviour and that the transitions from one phase to the next occur independently for each follicle, after time intervals given stochastically by a lognormal distribution characterized by a mean and a variance. From this analysis, one can conclude that instead of a cyclical behaviour with an intrinsic automaton, a bistable steady state controls human hair follicle behaviour, which under a stochastic way jumps from the dormant to the active steady state and vice versa.

Effect of C-xyloside on morphogenesis of the dermal epidermal junction in aged female skin. An ultrastuctural pilot study.

A placebo-controlled randomized pilot study was performed on five postmenopausal women aged from 60 to 75 years. The women applied 320 mg (2 mg/cm(2)) of either placebo or 10% C-ß-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (C-xyloside) cream to each outer forearm twice daily for 3 months. At the end of the treatment, skin biopsies were collected from application areas on both forearms. Transmission electron microscope examinations revealed skin ultrastructural changes at the dermal epidermal junction (DEJ) after 10% C-xyloside application for 3 months. The morphological appearance of the DEJ showed strong improvements, with more homogeneous and regular lamina densa in the C-xyloside-treated compared to the placebo treated skin areas. The number of zones showing basement membrane re-duplication was indeed strikingly reduced on C-xyloside-treated skin. These ultrastructural results were further confirmed by a statistically significant increase in the expression levels of α6-integrin the and laminin-332, as estimated by immunohistochemistry. Altogether, these data suggest that topical C-xyloside application in vivo may be efficient in inducing a better dermal-epidermal cohesion when such a junction is deficient, as is the case in photo-aged or chronologically aged skin. Moreover, a statistically significant increase in CD44 expression was noted in the epidermis of C-xyloside-treated compared to the placebo treated skin areas.

Large scale study of epidermal recovery after stratum corneum removal: dynamics of genomic response.

The stratum corneum (SC) is a superficial skin compartment that protects the body from the outside environment. Any disturbance of this function induces cascading steps of molecular and cellular repair in the whole epidermis. The aim of this study was to investigate epidermal gene expression following SC removal by tape stripping. Twenty-nine healthy male volunteers were included (27 +/- 4 years old). Tape stripping was processed on one inner forearm, the other unstripped forearm served as a control. Epidermis samples were collected at 2, 6, 19, 30 and 72 h after tape stripping. Trans-epidermal water loss measurements were performed at each step to monitor barrier restoration. Total RNA was extracted from collected epidermis samples and analysed by using DermArray cDNA microarrays. Among 4000 genes under investigation, we found that the expression of 370 genes varied significantly at least once during the time following stripping. Using an original clustering method, the modulated genes were gathered into eight groups. A functional characterization of the clusters enabled us to get a dynamic and global view of the main molecular processes taking place during epidermal recovery.

Transglutaminase-3 enzyme: a putative actor in human hair shaft scaffolding?

The family of transglutaminases (TGase) is known to be involved in terminal differentiation processes in the epidermis. These enzymes contribute also to the physical resistance and the preservation of the hair follicle structure. Our particular interest in hair fiber keratinization led us to focus on the TGase 3, exclusively expressed in the hair shaft. To date its function is still to be elucidated, thus we have developed a multidisciplinary approach in order to define the localization, activity, and substrates of TGase 3. The hair fiber is characterized by the expression of specific proteins essentially consisting of keratin intermediate filaments and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs), which are essential for the formation of a rigid hair shaft through their extensive disulfide cross-links. Gel electrophoresis combined with mass spectrometry experiments revealed an unexpected protein migration pattern, suggesting the existence of covalent interactions other than disulfide bonds. Western blot and amino-acid analysis revealed the presence of gamma-glutamyl-epsilon-lysine isopeptide linkages that could constitute this second covalent network. Our hypothesis is that TGase 3-driven specific isopeptide bonds between intermediate filaments and KAPs participate to the progressive scaffolding of the hair shaft.

Heparanase 1: a key participant of inner root sheath differentiation program and hair follicle homeostasis.

Heparanase is a heparan sulphate endo-glycosidase which was previously detected in the outer root sheath of murine hair follicles. Heparanase overexpression was reported to improve mouse hair (re)growth. In this study, we investigated its involvement in human hair biology. Immunofluorescence detection was used to explore heparanase distribution in both anagen and catagen hair follicles. Heparanase functionality was assessed in in vitro cultured hair follicles, in the presence of a heparanase activity inhibitor. Our results showed that heparanase expression was (i) primarily located in the inner root sheath (IRS) of human hair follicle, and there (ii) restricted to anagen phase. Furthermore, inhibition of heparanase in in vitro cultured hair follicles induced a catagen-like process. Hair shaft retreat upward was accompanied by a decrease in Ki67-positive cells, the formation of an epithelial strand as evidenced by K14 keratin expression, and the loss of IRS as assessed by transglutaminase 1 and desmoglein labelling. IRS distribution of heparanase and the induction of catagen-like involution of hair follicles when a potent heparanase inhibitor is added suggest that heparanase is a key actor of IRS differentiation and hair homeostasis.

[Human skin stem cells]. / Cellules souches de la peau humaine.

The homeostasis of continuously renewing human epidermis relies on the presence of adult stem cells, residing in the basal layer. Epidermal stem cells have been enriched and functionally characterized, but the exact location remained elusive. The human hair follicle and its pigmentation unit also cyclically regenerate from stem cells. Contrary to epidermal stem cells, human hair follicle stem cells have been localized, enriched, functionally and biochemically characterized. Their specific gene expression pattern has been established. The melanocyte stem population has also been localized and characterized. Finally, the hair follicle was found to harbor a number of other multipotent cells, which designates this unique organ as an alternative source of stem cells for tissue regeneration.