Effect of a low-mineralized thermal spring water on skin barrier mechanical properties using atomic force microscopy.

The mineral content of thermal spring water (TSW) applied to the skin surface can directly influence the skin barrier. Indeed, our previous study showed that Avène TSW (ATSW), a low mineral content thermal spring water, protects the stratum corneum from dehydration compared to a mineral-rich TSW (MR-TSW) and maintains skin surface ultrastructure. While many TSWs have been recognized to have beneficial effects on skin, little is known about their localized and specific effects on skin barrier biomechanics at the nanometric scale. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of ATSW with a reference, MR-TSW, on the biomechanical barrier properties of the skin under homeostasis conditions using atomic force microscopy (AFM). AFM was used to obtain a precise nanomechanical mapping of the skin surface after three applications of both TSW. This provides specific information on the skin topographical profile and elasticity. The topographic profile of skin samples showed a specific compaction of the skin layers after application of MR-TSW, characterized by an increase of the total number of external skin layers, compared to non-treated samples. By contrast, ATSW did not modify the skin topographic profile. High-resolution force/volume acquisitions to capture the elastic modulus showed that it was directly correlated with skin rigidity. The elastic modulus strongly and significantly increased after MR-TSW application compared to non-treated skin. By contrast, applications of ATSW did not increase elastic modulus. These data demonstrate that applications of MR-TSW significantly modified skin barrier properties by increasing skin surface layer compaction and skin rigidity. By contrast, ATSW did not modify the topographical profile of skin explants nor induce mechanical stress at the level of the stratum corneum, indicating it does not disrupt the biophysical properties linked to skin surface integrity.

Formulation of a new broad-spectrum UVB + UVA and blue light SPF50+ sunscreen containing Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB), an innovative sun filter with unique optical properties.

Accumulating evidence from numerous comprehensive studies has demonstrated that blue light, in particular high-energy visible light, can exert a range of harmful effects on skin cells. These forms of radiation are now known to be able to trigger oxidation reactions, DNA damage, erythema and pigmentary changes, and may also be associated with photoaging. Sunscreens protecting the skin from only ultraviolet (UV)-B and UVA rays can therefore no longer be regarded as sufficient to help prevent skin damage from sunlight, and products containing filters that can provide broad-spectrum photoprotection are required. To meet this need, a new sunscreen formulation that provides photoprotection against solar radiation with wavelengths ranging from UV to visible light has been developed, using an innovative organic sun filter with unique optical properties: phenylene bis diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB™). This article outlines the development and characteristics of this innovative filter and describes new key results from studies performed to assess the effectiveness and safety of the filter and the new sunscreen product. The studies conducted so far demonstrate that the filter has a good human and environmental safety profile. In addition, the sunscreen, which contains TriAsorB in combination with three other UV filters to offer broad-spectrum sun protection with a high sun protection factor (SPF50+ ), appears to effectively prevent multiple forms of cellular photodamage, in particular blue light-induced oxidatively generated DNA lesions. Overall, the available data indicate that regular use of the TriAsorB-containing sunscreen could help prevent solar radiation-induced skin damage and the development of signs of premature skin aging, as well as photodermatoses caused or exacerbated by visible light.

MS imaging and absorption methods visualizing sun filter skin spatial distribution and penetration.

Sunscreens must now be effective in protecting skin from ultraviolet, as well as visible/infrared radiation. Here, TriAsorB, a new broad-spectrum sun filter, was formulated with three other sunscreens and their distribution on human skin was studied using a standard penetration protocol and two novel mass spectrometry imaging techniques: atmospheric pressure matrix assisted laser desorption ionization (AP-MALDI) coupled to high resolution mass spectrometry and time of flight - secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS). The standard penetration protocol showed that sun filters absorption was very low, with most of the dose recovered at the surface (none entered the receptor fluid). Absorption was not increased in damaged skin. The results were confirmed by AP-MALDI and ToF-SIMS imaging of the spatial distribution of molecular species in cross-section samples of human skin. Each sun filter was detected on or in the stratum corneum, with a good homogenous coverage over the valleys and peaks of the skin, and correlated well with the distribution of endogenous biomarkers. In conclusion, conventional and novel imaging analysis methods showed that the sun filters remained mainly on the skin surface after topical application. Mass spectrometry imaging is a promising complementary approach to traditional skin penetration studies to visualize penetration of compounds.

Clinical evaluation of anaesthetic-like effect of two dermocosmetic formulations containing Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 in subjects with sensitive facial skin.

BACKGROUND: Sensitive skin is a common condition of hyper-reactivity to external stimuli, e.g. heat or abrasion. The symptoms are subjective but can be measured using validated emotional and technical methods. Avène water has several beneficial effects on the skin. In vitro studies indicated that the active component of this natural spring water, Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3), modulates cutaneous sensitivity via an anaesthetic-like mechanism. OBJECTIVES: To assess facial skin reactivity after repeated application of two formulations containing ADE-G3. METHODS: In open-label studies, healthy subjects with sensitive facial skin applied cream or balm twice daily for 84 days. The severity of skin sensitivity was measured using the Sensitive Scale (based on quantifying visible or subjective signs). Subjective responses associated with pain or uncomfortable feeling were assessed by measuring electrodermal response (EDR). This involves measuring variations in skin electrical resistance due to non-conscious physiological changes in activity of the sympathetic nervous system. Subjects were also evaluated for beneficial effects according to a quantitative approach using semantic assessment of a question regarding their skin quality. Evaluations were performed before and after the first application, and after 29/30, 56 and 84 days of twice daily use. RESULTS: There was a significant decrease in the EDR after stimuli immediately after the application of both ADE-G3 formulations, which continued to decrease over 84 days (40-50% decrease by D85). Likewise, all physical and functional signs of the Sensitive Scale were significantly decreased immediately after the first application and at all time points tested after treatment. Verbatim analysis revealed a semantic shift, from mainly negative terms on D1 to mainly positive terms at D85 for both tested products. CONCLUSIONS: These results demonstrated that two formulations containing ADE-G3 reduced skin sensitivity, indicating a decreased activation of the sympathetic nervous system associated with this condition.

Specific protection of sensitive skin against environmental stress by maintenance and improvement of barrier function.

BACKGROUND: Sensitive skin is a common condition that can severely impact quality of life. Several mechanisms are thought to be involved, including those affecting the skin barrier function, hydration and skin innervation. OBJECTIVES: To investigate the benefit of cream and balm formulations dedicated to sensitive skin and containing Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3) on skin barrier functions (lipid composition, pH, TEWL), as well as protective responses to dry and pollution stresses. METHODS: In vitro sensitized (using histamine) reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) were subjected to dehydration and pollution stress in the absence and presence of the formulations. Endpoint measurements included transepithelial electric resistance (TEER), stratum corneum protein expression and lipid contents. Clinical measurements included transepithelial water loss (TEWL), skin pH and the lipid index. RESULTS: When applied in cream and balm formulations, ADE-G3, increased the TEER in sensitized RHEs. In non-sensitized dehydrated RHEs, both formulations increased recovery of skin barrier integrity after dehydration, evident as a return of the ratios of filaggrin/profilaggrin and caspase-14/procaspase-14 to values measured in control non-stressed RHEs, as well as reducing the 'natural moisturizing factor' to control levels. In clinical studies performed on dry human skin, the formulations helped to maintain and improve the skin barrier function. This was evident as an intense and sustained moisturization (total lipids and lipid esters were increased), an increase in pH and a decrease in the TEWL by both formulations. When exposed to pollution stress by treating the models with benzo[a]pyrene and airborne particulate matter (PM10), application of both formulations prior to exposure attenuated the induction of CYP1A1, CYP1B1 and UGT1A7 expression, indicating a protective effect. CONCLUSIONS: ADE-G3 cream and balm formulations increased the hydration of the skin but also protected and improved the skin barrier integrity of sensitive skin exposed to dry and cold and airborne pollutant-induced stress environments.

In vitro characterization and clinical evaluation of skin hydration by two formulations mimicking the skin's natural components.

BACKGROUND: We have developed innovative base formulations that were designed to mimic the skin with respect to its components and galenic structure. Components include water, proteins, lipids, sugars and minerals. OBJECTIVES: We characterized formulations and their skin penetration using in vitro methods and evaluated their impact on skin hydration in a clinical trial. METHODS: Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging and X-ray diffraction were used to analyse formulations as well as formulation impact on the stratum corneum (SC) structure. Mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) was used to compare formulation ingredients with SC components and to detect their distribution in the skin. Clinical studies were performed to confirm effects on skin hydration and investigate potential adverse skin effects (irritation and sensitization). RESULTS: SEM and X-ray diffraction of the formulations showed that lipids were organized in sheets similar to SC lipids. MSI demonstrated similarities between formulation components and skin constituents, as well as a good penetration into the skin. The formulations did not modify the lamellar organization of the SC lipids, but they increased the relative proportion of the crystallized lipids and some of the amorphous lipids. In in vivo studies, a high level of hydration was maintained over 24 h after application with an intense and 'very good hydration'. Both formulations were shown to be non-(photo)sensitizers with excellent tolerance. Sensorial evaluation indicated the formulations were not oily or sticky and maintained the skin's suppleness over time. Formulations had a 'nude skin' touch and created a natural protective film. CONCLUSIONS: The two formulations were well-tolerated and increased skin hydration in clinical subjects, an effect that could contribute to the alleviation of sensitive skin. The formulations were shown to resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, as well as penetrate the skin without disrupting the lipid lamella organization.

Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB), a new sunfilter protecting the skin against both UVB + UVA and blue light radiations.

Sunlight induces actinic keratosis, skin cancers and photoaging. Photoprotection is thus a major issue in public health to prevent the harmful effects of solar ultraviolet (UV) radiations. Recent data have shown that the visible (VIS) and infrared (IR) radiations can lead to skin damage by oxidative stress, suggesting that a balanced protection across the entire spectrum of sunlight is necessary to prevent cutaneous alterations. In this context, we developed a new generation of sunfilter called Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine or TriAsorB (CAS N°55514-22-2). The aim of the present study was to assess the photoprotective efficacy of TriAsorB from UV to IR light. Spectrophotometric assays were performed to measure absorption and reflectance of TriAsorB in the different spectral ranges of sunlight: UV, VIS including blue light or high energy visible (HEV) and IR. DNA damage was evaluated using reconstructed human epidermis (RHE): 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8OHdG) in response to HEV exposure, pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and (6-4) photoproducts following solar-simulated radiation (SSR). TriAsorB is a broad spectrum UVB + UVA filter including long UVA. Interestingly, it also absorbs VIS radiations, especially in the HEV region. These radiations are also reflected. Protection in the IR spectral range is weak. Furthermore, the sunfilter specifically protects the skin against the oxidative lesions 8OHdG induced by HEV and prevents SSR-induced DNA damage. Thus, TriAsorB is an innovative sunfilter that might be used in sun care products for skin photoprotection from UV to VIS radiations. Finally, it prevents sunlight genotoxicity and protected the skin against solar radiations, especially blue light.

Broad spectrum repairing properties of an extract of Aquaphilus dolomiae on in vitro and ex vivo models of injured skin.

BACKGROUND: A biological concentrate was produced from cultures of an Avène aquatic microflora isolate, namely Aquaphilus dolomiae. Some of the beneficial effects on diseased and damaged skin are thought to be due to the presence of this microorganism. AIMS: An extract of A. dolomiae (A. dolomiae extract-G2, ADE-G2) was evaluated for its wound-healing effects using in vitro and ex vivo models of injured skin. METHODS: The effect of ADE-G2 on the proliferation of fibroblasts, migration of keratinocytes and re-epithelialization of ex vivo wounded skin explants was measured. Antimicrobial protection by ADE-G2 was measured by analysing the gene expression of a panel of antimicrobial proteins (AMPs) in keratinocytes (RNASE7, S100A7, DEFB4A/B and DEFb103B), as well as the protein encoded by DEFB4A-B (hBD2) in the medium. RESULTS: ADE-G2 increased fibroblast proliferation and keratinocyte migration, as well as re-epithelialization of wounded ex vivo skin. ADE-G2 induced the expression of all AMP genes analysed in keratinocytes, as well as stimulated the release in to the medium of hBD2 peptide, encoded by DEFB4A/B. CONCLUSIONS: We have shown the broad spectrum of the repairing properties of the A. dolomiae extract, ADE-G2. These results support the use of ADE-G2 as a promising component for use in formulations aimed at repairing skin, limiting wound superinfection and preventing complicated wounds.

Cutaneous sensitivity modulation by Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 on in vitro models of neuro-inflammation.

BACKGROUND: Inflammatory skin disorders, including atopic dermatitis (AD), associated pruritus and sensitive skin, have a complex multifactorial pathogenesis including neurogenic inflammation involving the release in blood and skin of neurotransmitters such as substance P (SP). AIMS AND METHODS: In vitro models evaluated the effect of the original biological extract of Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3) on cutaneous neurogenic inflammation. RESULTS: ADE-G3 significantly inhibited SP-stimulated release of IL-1ß and TNF-α from normal human epidermal keratinocytes; significantly and dose-dependently inhibited SP-stimulated activation of human mast cells; significantly inhibited veratridine-stimulated release of SP from human sensory neurons; modulated expression of genes involved in lipid synthesis, innate immunity, corneocyte scaffolding and epidermal differentiation in a histamine-sensitized reconstructed human epidermis model; and, when applied topically to ex vivo human explants, inhibited IL-8 and histamine release. CONCLUSIONS: Topically applied ADE-G3, once formulated, may improve neuro-inflammation in patients with inflammatory skin disorders.

Protective properties of Avène Thermal Spring Water on biomechanical, ultrastructural and clinical parameters of human skin.

BACKGROUND: Thermal Spring Water (TSW) has been recognized to have beneficial effects on skin; however, the mechanisms underlying these are not completely elucidated. AIMS: We compared the effects of Avène TSW with mineral-rich (MR) TSW on the biomechanical properties of the skin using mechanistic ex vivo assays and clinical studies. METHODS: Ex vivo studies included the effect of both TSWs on the structure of the surface of human skin explants using scanning electron microscopy (SEM); mineral elemental content on the skin surface using SEM coupled to energy dispersing X-ray spectroscopy; and the stress properties of the stratum corneum (SC) when exposed to dehydration. Human clinical studies were conducted to compare the soothing effect of TSWs after a dermatological chemical peeling of face skin and to evaluate the overall sensitive scale of consumers using Avène TSW for 7 days. RESULTS: Both TSWs preserved surface skin ultrastructure; however, crystals formed from MR-TSW were needle-like and formed small grains, present in clusters heterogeneously spread over the surface. Needle crystals were mainly composed of calcium, while small clusters were mainly composed of sulphur. By contrast, Avène TSW-formed crystals composed of sodium and chlorine only were regular in shape and homogeneously distributed across the skin surface. Peak stress of SC layers was increased by MR-TSW, whereas Avène TSW showed a comparatively reduced effect on dehydration and stress. The difference in the two TSW types was reflected in clinical findings comparing postpeeling redness after TSW application. Avène TSW significantly decreased postpeeling redness, while MR-TSW increased it. The overall sensitive scale of consumers was decreased by 47% using Avène TSW for 7 days. CONCLUSIONS: Avène TSW decreases postpeeling redness and soothes sensitive skin in human volunteers. Mechanistic studies suggested that differences in biomechanical effects could be linked to differences in calcium content of the TSW.

Protective effect of Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G1, ADE-G1, on tight junction barrier function in a Staphylococcus aureus-infected atopic dermatitis model.

BACKGROUND: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common skin disease characterized by recurrent pruritic inflammatory skin lesions and defects of the skin barrier. Bacterial infection with Staphylococcus aureus contributes to increased severity of AD by compromising the barrier further. A microorganism component of Avène Thermal Spring Water, Aquaphilus dolomiae, is thought to contribute to some of its beneficial effects to skin, eg AD alleviation. AIMS: Here, we have investigated the effects of an extract of A. dolomiae, A. dolomiae extract-G1 (ADE-G1), on the structural barrier function of keratinocytes, tight junction (TJ) protein expression and the expression of several genes altered in AD patients. METHODS: An epidermal cell culture model mimicking the AD environment and phenotype was used, in which S. aureus-infected cell cultures of normal human epidermal keratinocytes were exposed to a proinflammatory environment. Endpoints measured included the transepithelial electrical resistance (TER) and immunohistological staining of the epidermal TJ proteins, claudin and occludin. Additional analysis was made of several genes known to be differentially regulated in skin from AD patients (C-C motif chemokine ligand 20 (CCL20), interleukin-8 (IL-8), S100 calcium binding protein A7 (S100A7), defensin beta 4 (DEFB4) and filaggrin). RESULTS: Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G1 strongly increased TER in non-infected cells and provided protection against infection by overcoming the decrease in TER induced by the infection with S. aureus. In infected cells exposed to a pro-inflammatory environment - depicting AD-like conditions - TER protection by ADE-G1 was still observed. Gene expression analysis of infected and pro-inflammatory stimulated cells indicated that ADE-G1 modulated the inflammatory response (induced IL-8 and attenuated CCL20 expression), increased antimicrobial activities (induced DEFB4 and A100A7) and strengthened barrier function (restored filaggrin expression). CONCLUSIONS: ADE-G1 reinforces barrier function and strongly protects TJ barrier disruption induced by bacterial infection and inflammation.

Gerontodermatology: the fragility of the epidermis in older adults.

The proportion of adults over 60 years of age is rapidly increasing and is estimated to reach approximately one-sixth of the global population by 2030. An ageing population is a real challenge for healthcare resources, including dermatologists and geriatricians, as age-related changes in skin integrity and barrier function make older adults more susceptible to developing skin pathologies such as pruritus, dermatitis and infections. Fragile skin arises from several interlinked causes, including age-related changes in skin barrier integrity, previous and current lifestyle choices, skin pathologies and medical interventions. Dermo-cosmetics can play a key role in enhancing skin care regimens and preventing pathologies in this age group. In vitro studies, clinical, and in-daily clinical practice studies of dermo-cosmetics have shown them to be effective in many skin conditions in older adults, like xerosis and pruritus. Incontinence-associated dermatitis (IAD), a common condition arising from contact with irritants such as urine and faeces which can significantly impact the quality of life of sufferers, can also be improved with a barrier cream in incontinent patients aged 70 years and older. This supplement focuses on the increased fragility of older skin, the development of common skin pathologies and the efficacy and tolerance of dermo-cosmetic products in older adults.

Fragility of epidermis in newborns, children and adolescents.

Within their first days of life, newborns' skin undergoes various adaptation processes needed to accommodate the transition from the wet uterine environment to the dry atmosphere. The skin of newborns and infants is considered as a physiological fragile skin, a skin with lower resistance to aggressions. Fragile skin is divided into four categories up to its origin: physiological fragile skin (age, location), pathological fragile skin (acute and chronic), circumstantial fragile skin (due to environmental extrinsic factors or intrinsic factors such as stress) and iatrogenic fragile skin. Extensive research of the past 10 years have proven evidence that at birth albeit showing a nearly perfect appearance, newborn skin is structurally and functionally immature compared to adult skin undergoing a physiological maturation process after birth at least throughout the first year of life. This article is an overview of all known data about fragility of epidermis in 'fragile populations': newborns, children and adolescents. It includes the recent pathological, pathophysiological and clinical data about fragility of epidermis in various dermatological diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, acne, rosacea, contact dermatitis, irritative dermatitis and focus on UV protection.

How biophysical in vivo testing techniques can be used to characterize full thickness skin equivalents.

BACKGROUND: The reliability of the biophysical properties of skin equivalents (SEs) remains a challenge for medical applications and for product efficacy tests following the European Directive 2003/15/EC2 on the prohibition of animal experiments for cosmetic products. METHODS: We propose to adapt the biophysical in vivo testing techniques to compare full thickness model growth vs. time. The interest in using such techniques lies in possible comparisons between in vivo and in vitro skin as well as monitoring samples over the culture time. RESULTS: High frequency ultrasound technique, optical coherence tomography (OCT), and laser scanning microscopy were used to analyze SEs morphology at days D42 and D60 whereas their microstructure was assessed through transmission electron microscopy and classical histology. A correlation between these observations and mechanical measurements has been proposed so as to underline the consequence of both the development of the dermis elastic fibers and the epidermis differentiation. CONCLUSION: Ultrasounds measurements show a highly homogeneous dermis whereas the OCT technique clearly distinguishes the stratum corneum and the living epidermis. The increase in the thicknesses of these layers as well as the growth in elastin and collagen fibers results in strong modifications of the samples mechanical properties.

A new hair follicle-derived human epidermal model for the evaluation of sunscreen genoprotection.

Induction of skin cancer is the most deleterious effect of excessive exposure to sunlight. Accurate evaluation of sunscreens to protect the genome is thus of major importance. In particular, the ability of suncare products to prevent the formation of DNA damage should be evaluated more directly since the Sun Protection Factor is only related to erythema induction. For this purpose, we developed an in vitro approach using a recently characterized reconstituted human epidermis (RHE) model engineered from hair follicle. The relevance of this skin substitute in terms of UV-induced genotoxicity was compared to ex vivo explants exposed to solar-simulated radiation (SSR). The yield of bipyrimidine photoproducts, their rate of repair, and the induction of apoptosis were very similar in both types of skin samples. In order to evaluate the protection afforded by sunscreen against DNA damage, bipyrimidine photoproducts were quantified in tissue models following SSR exposure in the presence or absence of a SPF50+ formula. A rather high DNA protection factor of approximately 20 was found in RHE, very similar to that determined for explants. Thus, RHE is a good surrogate to human skin, and also a convenient and useful tool for investigation of the genoprotection of sunscreens.

Characterization of a human epidermis model reconstructed from hair follicle keratinocytes and comparison with two commercially models and native skin.

OBJECTIVE: Outer root sheath (ORS) cells of human hair follicles are a readily available, non-invasive source of keratinocytes for epidermis reconstruction. The aim of this study was to characterize a model of epidermis reconstructed from ORS cells (ORS-derived model) and to evaluate its reproducibility, in comparison with native human skin and two marketed reconstructed skin models (model A, Episkin(®) and model B, Skinethic(®) ). METHODS: Cell morphology and tissue architecture of the three models were analysed histologically and proliferation and differentiation marker expression by immunohistochemistry and mRNA quantification. RESULTS: All models displayed the same general epidermal architecture as native epidermis, but with a thicker stratum corneum in models A and B. Compared with native epidermis, Ki67 was correctly localized in epidermal basal cells in all models, as K10 in suprabasal layers. In all skin models, transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) was prematurely expressed in suprabasal layers. However, this expression was only observed from the upper stratum spinosum in the ORS-derived model. In this model, filaggrin and loricrin were correctly located in the stratum granulosum. Filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin and TGM1 mRNAs (markers of keratinocyte terminal differentiation) were transcriptionally expressed in all models. In the ORS-derived model, transcriptional expression level was similar to that of native skin. CONCLUSION: ORS cell-based reconstructed epidermis is a valid and reproducible model for human epidermis and it may be used to evaluate the effects of active substances and cosmetic formulations.

In vitro approaches to pharmacological screening in the field of atopic dermatitis.

In vitro models are valuable for evaluating potential active ingredients and other molecules used in medications for atopic dermatitis (AD). However, finding appropriate in vitro models can be problematic. Our strategy was to set up different in vitro models that would mimic the pathomechanisms of AD. We describe five such models - the AD keratinocyte model, the AD reconstructed human epidermis model, the adaptive immunity model, the innate immunity model and the pruritus model - which we have used to evaluate a new ingredient for emollients derived from a biological extract. The models chosen provide useful data for the pharmacological characterization of active ingredients in adjunctive treatments for AD.

Fragility of epidermis and its consequence in dermatology.

The skin is the largest organ of the body, providing a protective barrier against bacteria, chemicals and physical insults while maintaining homeostasis in the internal environment. Such a barrier function the skin ensures protection against excessive water loss. The skin's immune defence consists of several facets, including immediate, non-specific mechanisms (innate immunity) and delayed, stimulus-specific responses (adaptive immunity), which contribute to fending off a wide range of potentially invasive microorganisms. This article is an overview of all known data about 'fragile skin'. Fragile skin is defined as skin with lower resistance to aggressions. Fragile skin can be classified into four categories up to its origin: physiological fragile skin (age, location), pathological fragile skin (acute and chronic), circumstantial fragile skin (due to environmental extrinsic factors or intrinsic factors such as stress) and iatrogenic fragile skin. This article includes the epidemiologic data, pathologic description of fragile skin with pathophysiological bases (mechanical and immunological role of skin barrier) and clinical description of fragile skin in atopic dermatitis, in acne, in rosacea, in psoriasis, in contact dermatitis and other dermatologic pathologies. This article includes also clinical cases and differential diagnosis of fragile skin (reactive skin) in face in adult population. In conclusion, fragile skin is very frequent worldwide and its prevalence varies between 25% and 52% in Caucasian, African and Asian population.

Cosmetics Europe multi-laboratory pre-validation of the SkinEthic™ reconstituted human corneal epithelium test method for the prediction of eye irritation.

Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care Association, known as Colipa before 2012, conducted a program of technology transfer and assessment of Within/Between Laboratory (WLV/BLV) reproducibility of the SkinEthic™ Reconstituted Human Corneal Epithelium (HCE) as one of two human reconstructed tissue eye irritation test methods. The SkinEthic™ HCE test method involves two exposure time treatment procedures - one for short time exposure (10 min - SE) and the other for long time exposure (60 min - LE) of tissues to test substance. This paper describes pre-validation studies of the SkinEthic™ HCE test method (SE and LE protocols) as well as the Eye Peptide Reactivity Assay (EPRA). In the SE WLV study, 30 substances were evaluated. A consistent outcome with respect to viability measurement across all runs was observed with all substances showing an SD of less than 18%. In the LE WLV study, 44 out of 45 substances were consistently classified. These data demonstrated a high level of reproducibility within laboratory for both the SE and LE treatment procedures. For the LE BLV, 19 out of 20 substances were consistently classified between the three laboratories, again demonstrating a high level of reproducibility between laboratories. The results for EPRA WLV and BLV studies demonstrated that all substances analysed were categorised similarly and that the method is reproducible. The SkinEthic™ HCE test method entered into the experimental phase of a formal ECVAM validation program in 2010.

Cosmetics Europe multi-laboratory pre-validation of the EpiOcular™ reconstituted human tissue test method for the prediction of eye irritation.

Cosmetics Europe, The Personal Care Association (known as Colipa before 2012), conducted a program of technology transfer and within/between laboratory reproducibility of MatTek Corporation's EpiOcular™ Eye Irritation Test (EIT) as one of the two human reconstructed tissue test methods. This EIT EpiOcular™ used a single exposure period for each chemical and a prediction model based on a cut-off in relative survival [ ≤60%=irritant (I) (GHS categories 2 and 1); >60%=no classification (NC)]. Test substance single exposure time was 30 min with a 2-h post-exposure incubation for liquids and 90 min with an 18-h post-exposure incubation for solids. Tissue viability was determined by tetrazolium dye (MTT) reduction. Combinations of 20 coded chemicals were tested in 7 laboratories. Standardized laboratory documentation was used by all laboratories. Twenty liquids (11 NC/9 I) plus 5 solids (3 NC/2 I) were selected so that both exposure regimens could be assessed. Concurrent positive (methyl acetate) and negative (water) controls were tested in each trial. In all, 298 independent trials were performed and demonstrated 99.7% agreement in prediction (NC/I) across the laboratories. Coefficients of variation for the% survival for tissues from each treatment group across laboratories were generally low. This protocol has entered in 2010 the experimental phase of a formal ECVAM validation program.