Development of novel alternative hair dyes to hazardous para-phenylenediamine.

Most of the permanent hair dye products contain p-phenylenediamine (PPD), a well-known skin sensitizer. PPD may cause cutaneous reactions and leads to allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), a condition with major medical and financial repercussions. Hair dye-induced ACD represents a growing concern both for consumers and the cosmetics industry. In this study we introduced novel side chains on the PPD molecule with the goal of overcoming the hazard potential of PPD. Our strategy relies on the replacement of the colorless PPD with new, larger and intrinsically colorled PPD derivatives to reduce dermal penetration and thus the skin sensitization potential. We synthesized two oligomers with bulky side-chains, which displayed 7-8 times lower cytotoxicity than PPD, a significantly weaker sensitization potential (22.0 % and 23.8 % versus 55.5 % for PPD) in the Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay, minimal cumulative penetration through excised skin and an intrinsic ability to colour and preserve the nuance when applied on bleached hair. The lower skin permeation and sensitizing potential are absolutely crucial and give a clear advantage of our products over other standards. These novel PPD hair dyes show significantly less hazard potential than PPD and may, upon further risk assessment studies, replace PPD in consumer care products.

Structural and Functional Analysis of Intact Hair Follicles and Pilosebaceous Units by Volumetric Multispectral Optoacoustic Tomography.

Visualizing anatomical and functional features of hair follicle development in their unperturbed environment is key in understanding complex mechanisms of hair pathophysiology and in discovery of novel therapies. Of particular interest is in vivo visualization of the intact pilosebaceous unit, vascularization of the hair bulb, and evaluation of the hair cycle, particularly in humans. Furthermore, noninvasive visualization of the sebaceous glands could offer crucial insight into the pathophysiology of follicle-related diseases and dry or seborrheic skin, in particular by combining in vivo imaging with other phenotyping, genotyping, and microbial analyses. The available imaging techniques are limited in their ability for deep tissue in vivo imaging of hair follicles and lipid-rich sebaceous glands in their entirety without biopsy. We developed a noninvasive, painless, and risk-free volumetric multispectral optoacoustic tomography method for deep tissue three-dimensional visualization of whole hair follicles and surrounding structures with high spatial resolution below 80 µm. Herein we demonstrate on-the-fly assessment of key morphometric parameters of follicles and lipid content as well as functional oxygenation parameters of the associated capillary bed. The ease of handheld operation and versatility of the newly developed approach poise it as an indispensable tool for early diagnosis of disorders of the pilosebaceous unit and surrounding structures, and for monitoring the efficacy of cosmetic and therapeutic interventions.