Safety assessment for nail cosmetics: Framework for the estimation of systemic exposure through the nail plate.

All cosmetics products, including nail care products, must be evaluated for their safety. The assessment of systemic exposure is a key component of the safety assessment. However, data on the exposure, especially via ungual route (nail plate) are limited. Based on the physicochemical properties of human nails and permeability data of topical onychomycosis drugs, the nail plate is considered a good barrier to chemicals. We examine factors impacting penetration of nail care ingredients through the nail plate, including properties of the nails of the ingredients and formulations. The molecular weight, vapor pressure, logP, water solubility, and keratin binding, as well as formulations properties e.g., polymerization of acrylate monomers are considered important factors affecting penetration. To estimate systemic exposure of nail care ingredients through the nail plate, a standardized framework is applied that quantifies the impacts of these properties on penetration with an adjustment factor for each of these influencing properties. All the adjustment factors are then consolidated to derive an integrated adjustment factor which can be used for calculation of the systemic exposure dose for the ingredient. Several case studies are presented to reflect how this framework can be used in the exposure assessment for nail cosmetic products.

Common fragrance chemicals activate dendritic cells in coculture with keratinocytes.

BACKGROUND: Fragrances are important contact allergens; however, investigation of their skin sensitization potency has been challenging in new approach methods (NAMs). Many fragrance chemicals are susceptible to autoxidation or can be metabolized by enzymes constitutively expressed in skin keratinocytes. Strong sensitizers can be formed in both of these processes. Further, keratinocytes can modulate the dendritic cell (DC) activation and maturation potential, a key event in the acquisition of contact allergy. OBJECTIVES: To evaluate the 2D coculture model consisting of keratinocytes and DCs using different weak to moderate sensitizing fragrance chemicals. Further, to investigate fragrances and related oxidation products in the in vitro model and compare to in vivo data. METHODS: Chemicals were tested in the coculture activation test (COCAT), consisting of HaCaT keratinocytes and THP-1 cells. THP-1 cell surface expression of costimulatory and adhesion molecules (CD86 and CD54) collected after 24 h incubation with the chemicals was analysed using flow cytometry. RESULTS: Twenty-four molecules were tested positive, three were negative (n = 27). Four pairs were evaluated, with aldehydes showing a 6- to 13-fold stronger responses compared to their corresponding alcohols. CONCLUSIONS: Results provide insight into the activation of DC in their natural environment of keratinocytes. α,ß-Unsaturated alcohols were classified as weaker sensitizers compared to their corresponding aldehydes. In sum, testing of fragrances retrieved results in good agreement with in vivo data.

The 2-Methoxymethyl Modification of p -Phenylenediamine Reduces the Sensitization Risk for Hairdressers to Hair Dyes-An Occupational Hand Exposure-Based Risk Assessment.

BACKGROUND: Allergic contact dermatitis involving the hands is a common occupational skin disease for hairdressers and the potent sensitizers p -phenylenediamine (PPD) and toluene-2,5-diamine (PTD) are associated with the development of occupational allergic contact dermatitis. OBJECTIVE: The aim of the study was to analyze whether the use of the moderate sensitizer 2-methoxymethyl-PPD (ME-PPD) in professional hair dyes is a suitable tool to reduce the occupational contact allergy risk for hairdressers. METHODS: Hand exposure of hairdressers (N = 11) to ME-PPD was analyzed under routine hair coloring conditions in commercial salons. By accounting for wet work and uneven hand exposure, the daily hand exposure was derived and compared with the occupational acceptable exposure level (AEL), that is, the sensitization induction threshold of ME-PPD adjusted for interindividual variability among workers. RESULTS: The daily hand exposure to ME-PPD was 1.6 µg/cm 2 , and the occupational AEL was 215 µg/cm 2 . The ratio of hand exposure to AEL was calculated as the margin of safety (MOS) against occupational sensitization. For ME-PPD, the MOS of 134 indicates a low likelihood of sensitization versus PPD and PTD with MOS values of 2.7 and 5.9, respectively. CONCLUSIONS: Our data predict that the use of ME-PPD in professional hair color products improves the protection of hairdressers against hair dye-related contact allergy versus the use of PPD and PTD.

The HaCaT/THP-1 Cocultured Activation Test (COCAT) for skin sensitization: a study of intra-lab reproducibility and predictivity.

The Cocultured Activation Test (COCAT) consists of cocultured HaCaT (human keratinocyte cell line) and THP-1 cells (surrogate of antigen presenting cells). Individually, these cell lines are used to address key event 2 and 3 of the skin sensitization Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP). Their exposure in coculture was found to have the potential to increase their response to sensitizing chemicals, enable the detection of pro-haptens and support the identification of skin sensitization potency. The present study was undertaken to assess the predictive capacity of COCAT to both skin sensitization hazard and potency and to assess the intra-laboratory reproducibility of COCAT based on the blind testing of chemicals. Results showed a reproducibility between runs of 80 % for 15 coded chemicals. 100 % sensitivity (9/9), 75 % specificity (3/4) and 92.3 % accuracy (12/13) was found for skin sensitization hazard prediction, while the tests of two chemicals were inconclusive. Including additional chemicals tested during the optimization phase in addition to the blind tested chemicals, the skin sensitization UN GHS sub-categories were correctly predicted for 85.7 % (12/14) Sub-category 1A chemicals, 83.3 % (10/12) Sub-category 1B chemicals and 92.3 % (12/13) 'No Category' chemicals, resulting in an overall accuracy of 87.4 % (34/39). The present study shows the COCAT to be a promising method for the identification of skin sensitization hazard and potency sub-categorization according to the UN GHS classification.

Sensitization potential and potency of terpene hydroperoxides in the cocultured activation test method.

BACKGROUND: Positive patch test reactions to mixtures of oxidized terpenes containing allergenic hydroperoxides are frequently reported. However, human sensitization data for these hydroperoxides are not available. OBJECTIVES: To analyse and evaluate the human sensitization potential and potency of hydroperoxides in vitro by using human cells. MATERIALS/METHODS: Limonene-1-hydroperoxide, limonene-2-hydroperoxide, citronellol-7-hydroperoxide, cumene hydroperoxide, 1-(1-hydroperoxy-1-methylethyl)cyclohexene and mixtures of citronellol hydroperoxides (isomers at positions 6 and 7) and linalool hydroperoxides (isomers at positions 6 and 7) were studied. All compounds were synthesized except for cumene hydroperoxide, which was commercially available. Their potential and potency to activate dendritic cells (DCs) was evaluated by measuring the upregulation of CD86 and CD54 on THP-1 cells upon exposure in the cocultured activation test (COCAT) consisting of HaCaT cells (human keratinocyte cell line) and THP-1 monocytes (as a surrogate for DCs). RESULTS: Hydroperoxides upregulated CD86 and/or CD54 on cocultured THP-1 cells in a concentration-dependent manner. The results are comparable with their sensitization potency ranking in predictive animal models. CONCLUSIONS: For the first time, the human sensitization potential and potency of several hydroperoxides were determined by the use of human cells and the COCAT method.

Understanding the skin sensitization capacity of ascaridole: a combined study of chemical reactivity and activation of the innate immune system (dendritic cells) in the epidermal environment.

To improve the prediction of the possible allergenicity of chemicals in contact with the skin, investigations of upstream events are required to better understand the molecular mechanisms involved in the initiation of allergic reactions. Ascaridole, one of the compounds responsible for skin sensitization to aged tea tree oil, degrades into intermediates that evolve via different mechanisms involving radical species. We aimed at broadening the knowledge about the contribution of radical intermediates derived from ascaridole to the skin sensitization process by assessing the reactivity profile towards amino acids, identifying whether free radicals are formed in a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model and their biological properties to activate the immune system, namely dendritic cells in their natural context of human HaCaT keratinocytes and RHE. Electron paramagnetic resonance combined to spin-trapping in EpiSkin™ RHE confirmed the formation of C-radicals in the epidermal tissue from 10 mM ascaridole concentration, while reactivity studies toward amino acids showed electrophilic intermediates issued from radical rearrangements of ascaridole as the main reactive species. Activation of THP-1 cells, as surrogate for dendritic cells, that were cocultured with HaCaT was significantly upregulated after treatment with low micromolar concentrations based on cell surface expression of the co-stimulatory molecule CD86 and the adhesion molecule CD54. Placing THP-1 cells underneath the RHE allowed us to monitor which of the concentrations that produce radical(s) and/or protein antigens in the epidermal skin environment promote the activation of dendritic cells. We detected no significant upregulation of CD86/CD54 after topical RHE application of concentrations up to 30 mM ascaridole (t = 24 h) but clear upregulation after 60 mM.

An in vitro coculture system for the detection of sensitization following aerosol exposure.

The aim of the study was to develop an in vitro model that mimics the alveolar-capillary barrier and that allows assessment of the respiratory sensitizing potential of respiratory sensitizers. The 3D in vitro model cultured at the air liquid interface consists of alveolar type II epithelial cells (A549), endothelial cells (EA.hy926), macrophage-like cells (PMA-differentiated THP-1) and dendritic-like cells (non-differentiated THP-1). This alveolar model was exposed apically to nebulized chemical respiratory sensitizers (Phthalic Anhydride (PA) and TriMellitic Anhydride (TMA)) or irritants (Methyl Salicylate (MeSa) and Acrolein (Acr)) at concentrations inducing at maximum 25% of cytotoxicity. The exposure to respiratory sensitizers induced dendritic cells activation and a specific cytokine release pattern, while the irritants did not. In addition, the cell surface marker OX40L was determined for dendritic like cells activation to identify high molecular weight allergens. With this in vitro model we can postulate a set of promising markers based on the studied compounds that allow the discrimination of chemical respiratory sensitizers from irritants.

A coculture system composed of THP-1 cells and 3D reconstructed human epidermis to assess activation of dendritic cells by sensitizing chemicals after topical exposure.

A key event of the adverse outcome pathway for skin sensitization is the activation of dendritic cells (DC). To be most close to the in vivo situation, we combined for the first time reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) in coculture with THP-1 cells, as surrogate for DC. THP-1 cells were placed underneath RHE (SkinEthic™, OS-REp). Cell activation was measured by analyzing cell surface expression of co-stimulatory molecules CD86 and CD40, adhesion molecule CD54 and of human leukocyte antigen class II-related subtypes (HLA-DR) on THP-1 cells by flow cytometry. Both models were suitable to measure DC activation but basal CD54 levels are significantly increased compared to THP-1 cells in monoculture for OS-REp. Chemical-induced activation of THP-1 cells was investigated after topical exposure on SkinEthic™. As proof of concept we analyzed three sensitizers and lactic acid (non-sensitizer). We observed differential, dose dependent levels of CD86 and/or CD54 on THP-1 cells in response to the skin sensitizers. We conclude that the RHE/THP-1 coculture using topical exposure complements our HaCaT/THP-1 coculture (COCAT) based on a submersed exposure and may allow the analysis of DC activation by various kind of test items including chemicals with pronounced lipophilicity, mixtures and possibly finished products.

Allergy Alert Test for p-Phenylenediamine-Allergic Hair Dye Users.

BACKGROUND: Contact dermatitis to hair dyes remains a health concern. Regulations in many countries require consumer self-testing for hair dyes, but no standardized procedure exists. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to develop a self-test protocol for an allergy alert test (AAT) that can elicit a self-noticeable alert signal in p-phenylenediamine (PPD)-allergic consumers. METHODS: Simulating consumer use conditions (open application for 45 minutes after mixing with a developer), PPD-positive hair dye-allergic subjects and PPD-negative control subjects were tested on the forearm and behind the ear with experimental products containing 0.05%, 0.25%, 0.75%, and 2% PPD. Reactions were self-evaluated by subjects and independently assessed by dermatologists. CONCLUSIONS: The AAT caused a reaction self-noticeable on the forearm in 90.5% (38/42) and behind the ear in 93% (39/42) of the PPD-positive subjects. This was objectified by a dermatological evaluation. The strength of the AAT response and the number of responding subjects increased with increasing PPD concentrations. Allergy alert test responses were also dependent on the reaction strength of the diagnostic patch test to PPD before the study; in subjects with (+++) patch test reactions, 19 of 19 were positive. All 48 control subjects were negative to the AAT. Therefore, the AAT protocol provides a signal indicative of an allergic reaction in PPD-allergic hair dye consumers.

Cross-elicitation responses to 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine in p-phenylenediamine-allergic individuals: Results from open use testing and diagnostic patch testing.

BACKGROUND: Allergic contact dermatitis caused by p-phenylenediamine (PPD) is a health concern for hair dye users. Because of its lower sensitization potency, the PPD derivative 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine (ME-PPD) has been developed as an alternative hair dye for primary prevention. However, cross-elicitation responses can occur in PPD-allergic subjects. OBJECTIVES: To compare cross-elicitation responses to ME-PPD in open use and diagnostic patch testing of PPD-allergic subjects with hair dye-related allergic contact dermatitis. METHODS: Reactions to ME-PPD were investigated in 25 PPD-allergic subjects by performing (1) 45-minute open use testing with a hair dye containing 2.0% of either ME-PPD or PPD, and (2) patch testing with increasing ME-PPD concentrations (0.1%-2.0% pet.). RESULTS: Of the 25 PPD-allergic subjects, 21 (84%) reacted to open use testing with a hair dye containing 2.0% PPD, and testing with 2.0% ME-PPD led to cross-elicitation in 12 (48%). When patch tested with increasing ME-PPD concentrations, 13 (52%) cross-reacted at 0.1% (lowest dose) and 21 (84%) at 2.0% (highest dose), indicating decreased reactivity as compared with published PPD dose-response data. CONCLUSION: In line with the decreased cross-reactivity of ME-PPD in hair dye open use testing, PPD-allergic subjects show an attenuated cross-elicitation dose response to ME-PPD in patch testing.

Skin sensitization quantitative risk assessment for occupational exposure of hairdressers to hair dye ingredients.

Occupational exposure of hairdressers to hair dyes has been associated with the development of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) involving the hands. p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) and toluene-2,5-diamine (PTD) have been implicated as important occupational contact allergens. To conduct a quantitative risk assessment for the induction of contact sensitization to hair dyes in hairdressers, available data from hand rinsing studies following typical occupational exposure conditions to PPD, PTD and resorcinol were assessed. By accounting for wet work, uneven exposure and inter-individual variability for professionals, daily hand exposure concentrations were derived. Secondly, daily hand exposure was compared with the sensitization induction potency of the individual hair dye defined as the No Expected Sensitization Induction Levels (NESIL). For PPD and PTD hairdresser hand exposure levels were 2.7 and 5.9 fold below the individual NESIL. In contrast, hand exposure to resorcinol was 50 fold below the NESIL. Correspondingly, the risk assessment for PPD and PTD indicates that contact sensitization may occur, when skin protection and skin care are not rigorously applied. We conclude that awareness of health risks associated with occupational exposure to hair dyes, and of the importance of adequate protective measures, should be emphasized more fully during hairdresser education and training.

State-of-the-art and new options to assess T cell activation by skin sensitizers: Cosmetics Europe Workshop.

Significant progress has been made in the development and validation of non-animal test methods for skin sensitization assessment. At present, three of the four key events of the Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP) are assessable by OECD-accepted in vitro methods. The fourth key event describes the immunological response in the draining lymph node where activated dendritic cells present major histocompatibility complex-bound chemically modified peptides to naive T cells, thereby priming the proliferation of antigen-specific T cells. Despite substantial efforts, modelling and assessing this adaptive immune response to sensitizers with in vitro T cell assays still represents a challenge. The Cosmetics Europe Skin Tolerance Task Force organized a workshop, bringing together academic researchers, method developers, industry representatives and regulatory stakeholders to review the scientific status of T cell-based assays, foster a mutual scientific understanding and conceive new options to assess T cell activation. Participants agreed that current T cell assays have come a long way in predicting immunogenicity, but that further investment and collaboration is required to simplify assays, optimize their sensitivity, better define human donor-to-donor variability and evaluate their value to predict sensitizer potency. Furthermore, the potential role of T cell assays in AOP-based testing strategies and subsequent safety assessment concepts for cosmetic ingredients was discussed. It was agreed that it is currently difficult to anticipate uses of T cell assay data for safety assessment and concluded that experience from case studies on real-life risk assessment scenarios is needed to further consider the usefulness of assessing the fourth AOP key event.

Respiratory sensitization: toxicological point of view on the available assays.

Respiratory sensitization as a consequence of exposure to chemical products has increased over the last decades, leading to an increase of morbidity. The increased use of synthetic compounds resulted in an exponential growth of substances to which we are potentially exposed on a daily basis. Some of them are known to induce respiratory sensitization, meaning that they can trigger the development of allergies. In the past, animal studies provided useful results for the understanding of mechanisms involved in the development of respiratory allergies. However, the mechanistic understanding of the involved cellular effects is still limited. Currently, no in vitro or in vivo models are validated to identify chemical respiratory sensitizers. Nonetheless, chemical respiratory sensitizers elicit a positive response in validated assays for skin sensitization. In this review, we will discuss how these assays could be used for respiratory sensitization and if necessary, what can be learnt from these assays to develop a model to assess the respiratory sensitizing potential of chemicals. In the last decades, much work has been done to study the respiratory toxicity of inhaled compounds especially in developing in vitro assays grown at the air-liquid interface. We will discuss how possibly the tests currently used to investigate general particle toxicity could be transformed to investigate respiratory sensitization. In the present review, we describe the most known mechanism involved in the sensitization process and the experimental in vivo and alternative in vitro models, which are currently available and how to adapt and improve existing models to study respiratory sensitization.

Endothelial responses of the alveolar barrier in vitro in a dose-controlled exposure to diesel exhaust particulate matter.

BACKGROUND: During the last 250 years, the level of exposure to combustion-derived particles raised dramatically in western countries, leading to increased particle loads in the ambient air. Among the environmental particles, diesel exhaust particulate matter (DEPM) plays a special role because of its omnipresence and reported effects on human health. During recent years, a possible link between air pollution and the progression of atherosclerosis is recognized. A central effect of DEPM is their impact on the endothelium, especially of the alveolar barrier. In the present study, a complex 3D tetraculture model of the alveolar barrier was used in a dose-controlled exposure scenario with realistic doses of DEPM to study the response of endothelial cells. RESULTS: Tetracultures were exposed to different doses of DEPM (SRM2975) at the air-liquid-interface. DEPM exposure did not lead to the mRNA expression of relevant markers for endothelial inflammation such as ICAM-1 or E-selectin. In addition, we observed neither a significant change in the expression levels of the genes relevant for antioxidant defense, such as HMOX1 or SOD1, nor the release of pro-inflammatory second messengers, such as IL-6 or IL-8. However, DEPM exposure led to strong nuclear translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 and significantly altered expression of CYP1A1 mRNA in the endothelial cells of the tetraculture. CONCLUSION: In the present study, we demonstrated the use of a complex 3D tetraculture system together with a state-of-the-art aerosol exposure equipment to study the effects of in vivo relevant doses of DEPM on endothelial cells in vitro. To the best of our knowledge, this study is the first that focuses on indirect effects of DEPM on endothelial cells of the alveolar barrier in vitro. Exposure to DEPM led to significant activation and nuclear translocation of the transcription factor Nrf2 in endothelial cells. The considerably low doses of DEPM had a low but measurable effect, which is in line with recent data from in vivo studies.

Recent progress in N-acetyltransferase research: 7th international workshop on N-acetyltransferases (NAT): workshop report.

The 7th International Workshop on N-Acetyltransferases (NAT), held from 18 to 20 June 2016, was hosted by Brunhilde Blömeke and her team at the Trier University (Germany). The workshop addressed important aspects and latest advancements in the fields of NAT enzymes, endogenous functions of NATs, NAT gene nomenclature, genetic polymorphisms, and their associations with diseases as well as their use in diagnosis. Representatives from the leading teams performing research on NATs presented their excellent work, discussed the latest results, and created new ideas in the field of N-acetyltransferase research.

Keratinocytes improve prediction of sensitization potential and potency of chemicals with THP-1 cells.

In vitro approaches to address key steps of chemical-induced skin sensitization have been developed, but there is uncertainty how keratinocytes, which play a crucial role not only regarding xenobiotic metabolism but also skin inflammation, impact on a chemical's potential and potency to activate dendritic cells. We investigated these aspects by coculturing THP-1 cells, as surrogate dendritic cells, with HaCaT keratinocytes. We tested our HaCaT/THP-1 model with a set of 14 sensitizers, containing 7 prohaptens, and 10 non-sensitizers. Compared to exposing THP-1 alone, coculturing resulted in up to 3.1-fold enhanced maximal CD86 and/or CD54 upregulation on THP-1, and improved concentration-dependency. All 14 sensitizers were found positive for CD86 and/or CD54 upregulation based on ∆ mean fluorescence intensity (MFI) ≥ 10 for CD86 and ∆MFI ≥ 50 for CD54. Only 1 of 10 non-sensitizers was false-positive. Remarkably, coculture with HaCaT keratinocytes improved the rank correlation of the estimated minimum chemical concentrations inducing a positive response in vitro with in vivo data on sensitization potency, especially for CD54 (Spearman: r = 0.739, p = 0.006; CD86: r = 0.571, p = 0.041). These promising data suggest that the coculture model has the potential to support the prediction of sensitization potency based on in vitro data.