In vitro model systems for studying the impact of organic chemicals on the skin barrier lipids.

This paper describes two synthetic lipid models designed to replace human stratum corneum (SC) in studies of the impact of volatile organic chemicals on the molecular organization of the skin barrier lipids. The models built upon previously developed self-assembled lipid membranes which have composition and 3D organization similar to those of the lipid matrix in SC. In one model the target chemicals were incorporated in the lipids before their self-assembly, and in the other one they were applied on top of a preformed lipid membrane. The chemicals could be incorporated within the model membranes in quantities close to those reached within human SC upon heavy surface loading. The dose-dependent effects of the chemicals on the lateral molecular organization in the models were qualitatively identical to those observed by infrared spectroscopy in human SC. The models facilitated the interpretation of X-ray diffraction profiles used to determine the nature of the interactions between the chemicals and the lipid lamellae and the position of the exogenous molecules within the unit cell of the lipid phases. These model systems are suitable for in vitro studies in the areas of skin biophysics, dermatology, transdermal drug delivery, and risk assessment.

The impact of surface loading and dosing scheme on the skin uptake of fragrances.

This study compared the skin uptake of γ-undecalactone, decanol, and dodecyl acetate in an in vitro, un-occluded penetration assay in which they were applied to porcine skin at different finite loadings and application schemes. The pattern of fractional uptake differed between the chemicals and did not show the often assumed inverse correlation with surface loading. Furthermore, the mass uptake of identical cumulative amounts of the chemicals was not always additive. These results show that the uptake of fragrances in absence of occlusion and at finite loadings is chemical-specific and depends on the surface loading, the application scheme, and most probably, on the effects of the chemicals on the skin barrier efficiency. The observed lack of additivity might explain some of the differences in the responses observed in patch and repeated open application tests, and the boosting of the allergic state in sensitized individuals by sub-clinical exposures.

In vitro skin penetration of fragrances: trapping the evaporated material can enhance the dermal absorption of volatile chemicals.

This study compared the evaporation and skin absorption profiles of four fragrance chemicals in in vitro skin penetration studies performed in conditions of airflows of low velocity with and without trapping of the evaporated volatiles. The presence of a trapping chamber above the skin surface slowed down the evaporation of the chemicals, possibly due to formation of a gaseous stagnant layer of greater thickness than the one existing at the skin surface in the real-life conditions of multidirectional and/or turbulent flows. In addition, the use of a trapping chamber considerably influenced the distribution of the fragrance chemicals in the skin layers and resulted in 2- to 8-fold increase of the doses available for systemic absorption. Such unrealistic overestimation of the percutaneous absorption can significantly impact the risk assessment of topically applied volatile chemicals and can lead to defining unrealistic margins of safety.

Correlation between the properties of the lipid matrix and the degrees of integrity and cohesion in healthy human Stratum corneum.

The correlation between the degrees of integrity and cohesion in healthy human Stratum corneum (SC) and the properties of the SC lipid matrix could be examined non-invasively in vivo using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and measurements of pH, conductance, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) taken in the course of tape-stripping. The change of TEWL following the removal of a SC layer with a predefined thickness served as a measure for the SC integrity, and the amount of protein removed by predefined number of tapes - as a measure for the SC cohesion. The extent of lipids organized in orthorhombic lattices and the pH in the inner SC emerged as the main factors that determine the degree of integrity. The amounts and molecular organization of the SC lipids did not correlate with the degree of cohesion, while the pH and the hydration of SC correlated well with the degree of cohesion in the superficial but not in the inner SC layers. This study evidenced the variability of SC integrity and cohesion existing in healthy human skin, demonstrated the importance of the lipid molecular organization for the SC integrity, and illustrated the limitations in the determination the degree of corneodesmolysis in SC based only on the protein content of tape-strips.

Depth profiling of Stratum corneum hydration in vivo: a comparison between conductance and confocal Raman spectroscopic measurements.

The high-frequency electrical conductance of tape-stripped human skin in vivo can be used to evaluate the hydration profile of Stratum corneum (SC). Tape-stripping provides access to the underlying SC layers, and the conductance of these layers (as measured by the Skicon instrument) correlates well with their water content, as demonstrated by independent confocal Raman spectroscopic measurements. The correlation shows high inter-individual variance and is not linear over the full measurement range of the instrument, but is helpful to discriminate between dry, normal and highly hydrated SC. The depth profile of hydration in tape-stripped SC corresponds to the one in intact SC only if the barrier function of the skin is not impaired. Thus, conductometry of tape-stripped skin must be used in conjunction with a method that allows to estimate the barrier damage inflicted to SC during the tape-stripping procedure, for example, measurement of the trans-epidermal water loss. The methodology described here is simple, rapid and minimally invasive, and it employs commercially available instrumentation that is cheap, portable and easy to use. This approach is applicable to in vivo estimation of the SC hydration in studies in the areas of dermatology, skin care and transdermal drug delivery.

Molecular organization of the lipid matrix in intact Stratum corneum using ATR-FTIR spectroscopy.

ATR-FTIR spectroscopy is useful in investigating the lateral organization of Stratum corneum (SC) lipids in full-thickness skin. Based on studies of the thermotropic phase transitions in n-tricosane and in excised human skin, the temperature dependence of the CH2 scissoring bandwidth emerged as a measure of the extent of orthorhombic and hexagonal phases. This dependence provides a simpler measure of the lateral order in lipid assemblies than the common spectroscopic approaches based on difference spectra, curve fitting of the CH2 scissoring region, and the position of the CH2 stretching vibrations. It has the advantages of ease of determination, relatively low variability, and high discriminative power for the type of lateral intermolecular chain packing. A comparison of the lateral organization of the lipids at the SC surface of mammalian skin using the scissoring bandwidth revealed considerable differences between human abdominal skin (containing mostly orthorhombic phases), porcine ear skin (containing mostly hexagonal phases), and reconstructed human epidermis (containing mostly disordered phases). This parameter also correctly described the different effects of propylene glycol (minimally disturbing) and oleic acid (formation of a highly disordered phase) on the SC lipids in excised human skin. The procedure described here is applicable to in vivo studies in the areas of dermatology, transdermal drug delivery, and skin biophysics.

Application of attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared imaging and tape-stripping to investigate the three-dimensional distribution of exogenous chemicals and the molecular organization in Stratum corneum.

Attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopic imaging combined with tape-stripping is an advantageous approach to map the depth penetration and lateral distribution of topically applied chemicals in Stratum corneum (SC) and the conformational order of SC lipids. Tape-stripping progressively removes layers of SC, and chemical imaging provides spatially resolved information on the chemical composition of both the newly exposed SC surface and of the tapes used for stripping. The procedure is rapid, minimally invasive, and does not necessitate cross-sectioning of the skin. This approach offers a simple and direct way to determine the distribution of exogenous volatile and non-volatile chemicals in SC as a function of the chemical composition of the formulation and time, and the conformational order of SC lipids in native and topically treated skin. The procedure described here is well suited to address questions of relevance for the areas of drug delivery, dermatology, and skin care.

Biomimetic fabrication of 3D structures by spontaneous folding of tapes.

This paper describes a biomimetic strategy for the fabrication of 3D structures-including an electrically functional light detector-modeled on the folding of biological macromolecules into globular shapes. The process started by fabricating precursors to 3D, millimeter-sized structures using flexible polymer tapes. These tapes were patterned with metal features supporting liquid solder, crimped into strings of 3D corrugations, and attached to flat polymer tapes to generate linear 3D structures. Capillary interactions between droplets of molten solder on adjacent faces of the crimped tapes resulted in folding of the precursors into quasi-3D and truly 3D structures.

Magnetic self-assembly of three-dimensional surfaces from planar sheets.

This report describes the spontaneous folding of flat elastomeric sheets, patterned with magnetic dipoles, into free-standing, 3D objects that are the topological equivalents of spherical shells. The path of the self-assembly is determined by a competition between mechanical and magnetic interactions. The potential of this strategy for the fabrication of 3D electronic devices is demonstrated by generating a simple electrical circuit surrounding a spherical cavity.

Beyond molecules: self-assembly of mesoscopic and macroscopic components.

Self-assembly is a process in which components, either separate or linked, spontaneously form ordered aggregates. Self-assembly can occur with components having sizes from the molecular to the macroscopic, provided that appropriate conditions are met. Although much of the work in self-assembly has focused on molecular components, many of the most interesting applications of self-assembling processes can be found at larger sizes (nanometers to micrometers). These larger systems also offer a level of control over the characteristics of the components and over the interactions among them that makes fundamental investigations especially tractable.

Biomimetic self-assembly of a functional asymmetrical electronic device.

This paper introduces a biomimetic strategy for the fabrication of asymmetrical, three-dimensional electronic devices modeled on the folding of a chain of polypeptide structural motifs into a globular protein. Millimeter-size polyhedra-patterned with logic devices, wires, and solder dots-were connected in a linear string by using flexible wire. On self-assembly, the string folded spontaneously into two domains: one functioned as a ring oscillator, and the other one as a shift register. This example demonstrates that biomimetic principles of design and self-organization can be applied to generate multifunctional electronic systems of complex, three-dimensional architecture.

Design of three-dimensional, millimeter-scale models for molecular folding.

This communication describes the fabrication of three-dimensional structures of organic polymers using principles of design inspired by protein folding. The structures consist of rigid polyhedral components with dimensions of a few millimeters ("microdomains"), representing alpha-helical and beta-sheet secondary structures, connected with flexible linkers representing loops or turns. These structures were fabricated from polyurethane using photolithographic and soft lithographic techniques. The surfaces of the microdomains were patterned into hydrophobic and hydrophilic regions, and a hydrophobic photocurable liquid (serving both as lubricant and adhesive) was selectively precipitated onto the hydrophobic areas. The unfolded structures were suspended in water and agitated by tumbling. Self-assembly occurred through coalescence of the thin films of hydrophobic liquid, and was caused by minimization of the free energy of the interface between the liquid adhesive and the water. The self-assembled structures were locked in place by curing the adhesive with UV light. These results demonstrate the use of concepts abstracted from the study of proteins-including attractive hydrophobic interactions, shape complementarity, and conformational constraint-in the self-assembly of complex, three-dimensional structures on the millimeter scale.

Functional Molecular Thin Films: Topological Templates for the Chemoselective Ligation of Antigenic Peptides to Self-Assembled Monolayers.

The combination of self-assembly and regioselective surface chemistry has made it possible to immobilize peptide recognition sites 1 on a template attached to a gold surface. Each of the seven individual reaction steps, including the final functional biomolecular recognition, was controlled in situ with surface-sensitive detection techniques. The presented strategy is of general importance for the formation of complex supramolecular structures with biologically interesting functionalities at the interfaces.