Discovery of (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide among N-substituted cinnamamide derivatives as a novel cosmetic ingredient for hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation disorders may result from inappropriate melanin deposition and/or excessive melanin synthesis. They are classified mainly as aesthetic problems, but they can significantly affect human health by decreasing self-esteem. There are available only limited treatment options for hyperpigmentation disorder, among others, cosmetic products applied topically. Depigmenting ingredients were found to be ineffective and characterized by various side effects. As a result, many efforts are made to discover novel, potent, and safe melanogenesis inhibitors for possible use in topical cosmetic depigmenting formulations. Cinnamic acid derivatives constitute a widely tested group for that purpose. This article reports research in the group of N-alkyl cinnamamide derivatives (un)substituted in phenyl ring. Among tested series, (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide (compound 21) showed the most promising inhibitory properties in mushroom tyrosinase assay (IC50 = 36.98 ± 1.07 µM for monophenolase activity, IC50 = 146.71 ± 16.82 µM for diphenolase activity) and melanin production inhibition in B16F10 mouse melanoma cell line at concentration 6.25 µM resulting probably from decreasing of Tyr, Mitf, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 genes expression. This compound also showed melanin production inhibitory properties in pigmented reconstructed human epidermis when used in 1 % and 2 % solutions in 50 % PEG400. In vitro evaluation of its safety profile showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes HaCaT, human skin fibroblasts BJ, and human primary epidermal melanocytes HEMa, no mutagenicity in the Ames test, no genotoxicity in micronucleus test, no phototoxicity, as well as no skin irritation potential tested in PEG400 solution. This compound was also shown to penetrate across the epidermis to reach the possible site of action. The performed research led to classify (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide as a novel potential depigmenting cosmetic ingredient.

In silico and in vitro evaluation of a safety profile of a cosmetic ingredient: 4-methoxychalcone (4-MC).

Chalcone is an important scaffold within medicinal and cosmetic chemistry. The structure enables multiple modifications which may result in obtaining compounds with desirable bioactivity. One of the chalcone derivatives, 4-methoxychalcone is a known cosmetic ingredient indexed in Cosing database as an antioxidant, bleaching, and skin conditioning substance. We investigated its in silico and in vitro safety profile. In silico study using Derek Nexus showed its potential of skin sensitisation, equivocal nature of chromosome damage in vitro in mammals, but also no mutagenic properties. In vitro research proved its activity as melanogenesis inhibitor in B16F10 cell line at the doses 12.5-3.125 µM. Evaluations performed in various cell lines showed that the cytotoxic doses were 50-25 µM. Tests in Episkin™ proved its ability to penetrate across epidermis and enabled classification of 2% formulation in PEG as non-irritant. In micronucleus tests it showed no genotoxicity. Studies in Cunninghamella echinulata model proved that 4-methoxychalcone was metabolised to less lipophilic products. 4-methoxychalcone showed phototoxic potential, its EC50(+UV) = 3.57 µg/mL, PIF = 10.19 and MPE = 0.428 were comparable to chlorpromazine. Moreover, 4-methoxychalcone showed ecotoxic potential in Microtox® assay with EC50(5 min) = 0.0047 mg/L and EC50(15 min) = 0.0033 mg/L. Although active doses were lower than toxic ones, some potential safety risks were noticed. Especially, due to the phototoxicity potential of 4-methoxychalcone, its use as depigmenting agent should involve avoidance of sunlight and use of appropriate photoprotection.