Air pollution-induced tanning of human skin.

BACKGROUND: Melanism is more frequent in animals living in polluted areas on urban-industrial sites. Given that an increasing number of people are exposed to elevated air pollution levels, it is possible that environmental pollutants affect melanogenesis in human skin. Epidemiological studies have shown that exposure to traffic-related air pollutants such as diesel exhaust particles (DEP) is associated with more clinical signs of hyperpigmentation. However, mechanistic evidence linking DEP exposure to pigmentation has been elusive. OBJECTIVES: To develop an ex␣vivo skin model to allow for repetitive topical application of relevant ambient DEP, and to provide proof of concept in humans. METHODS: We measured skin pigmentation, melanin and pigmentation-associated gene expression, and evaluated oxidative stress. RESULTS: Repetitive exposure of ex␣vivo skin to DEP at nontoxic concentrations increased skin pigmentation. This increase was visible to the naked eye, time dependent, and associated with an increase in melanin content and the transcription of genes involved in de novo melanin synthesis. Similarly, in healthy participants (n = 76), repetitive topical application of DEP at nontoxic concentrations increased skin pigmentation. DEP-induced pigmentation was mediated by an oxidative stress response. After the application of DEP, epidermal antioxidants were depleted, lipid peroxidation and oxidative DNA damage were enhanced, and in a vehicle-controlled, double-blind clinical study DEP-induced pigmentation was prevented by the topical application of an antioxidant mixture. CONCLUSIONS: Similar to solar radiation, air pollutants cause skin tanning. As eumelanin is an antioxidant, it is proposed that this response serves to protect human skin against air pollution-induced oxidative stress.

Pycnogenol® effects on skin elasticity and hydration coincide with increased gene expressions of collagen type I and hyaluronic acid synthase in women.

INTRODUCTION AND OBJECTIVES: In recent years there has been an increasing interest in the use of nutritional supplements to benefit human skin. Molecular evidence substantiating such effects, however, is scarce. In the present study we investigated whether nutritional supplementation of women with the standardized pine bark extract Pycnogenol® will improve their cosmetic appearance and relate these effects to expression of corresponding molecular markers of their skin. MATERIALS AND METHODS: For this purpose 20 healthy postmenopausal women were supplemented with Pycnogenol for 12 weeks. Before, during and after supplementation, their skin condition was assessed (i) by employing non-invasive, biophysical methods including corneometry, cutometry, visioscan and ultrasound analyses and (ii) by taking biopsies and subsequent PCR for gene expression analyses related to extracellular matrix homeostasis. RESULTS: Pycnogenol supplementation was well tolerated in all volunteers. Pycnogenol significantly improved hydration and elasticity of skin. These effects were most pronounced in women presenting with dry skin conditions prior to the start of supplementation. The skin-physiological improvement was accompanied by a significant increase in the mRNA expression of hyaluronic acid synthase-1 (HAS-1), an enzyme critically involved in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, and a noticeable increase in gene expression involved in collagen de novo synthesis. CONCLUSIONS: This study provides skin-physiological and for the first time molecular evidence that Pycnogenol supplementation benefits human skin by increasing skin hydration and skin elasticity. These effects are most likely due to an increased synthesis of extracellular matrix molecules such as hyaluronic acid and possibly collagen. Pycnogenol supplementation may thus be useful to counteract the clinical signs of skin aging.

[Urea plus ceramides and vitamins: improving the efficacy of a topical urea preparation by addition of ceramides and vitamins]. / Harnstoff plus Ceramide und Vitamine: Untersuchungen zur Verbesserung eines harnstoffhaltigen Externums durch Zusatz von Ceramiden und Vitaminen.

Topical urea preparations containing urea have been used successfully to improve the barrier function of the skin. We investigated whether the efficacy of an urea-containing topical preparation could be improved by the addition of vitamins and ceramides. For this an intra-individual comparative study was conducted on 10 subjects with healthy skin. The application of the combination preparation containing urea, vitamins and ceramides for 2 weeks was significantly superior to the urea-only preparation in respect to reduction of transepidermal water loss and skin hydration levels. This improved efficacy was associated with a stronger up-regulation of the transcriptional expression of differentiation genes in keratinocytes in the treated skin areas. While both preparations caused an increased expression of the genes encoding transglutaminase-1, involucrin, loricrin and filaggrin, this increase was significantly greater in those skin areas treated with the combination preparation. This study indicates that the efficacy of topical preparations containing urea can be enhanced by the incorporation of ceramides and vitamins.

[Topical application of vitamins, phytosterols and ceramides. Protection against increased expression of interstital collagenase and reduced collagen-I expression after single exposure to UVA irradiation]. / Topische Applikation von Vitaminen, Phytosterolen und Ceramiden. Schutz vor vermehrter Expression der interstitiellen Kollagenase und verminderter Kollagen-I-Expression nach 1-maliger UVA-Bestrahlung.

Photoaged skin is characterized by a decrease of dermal collagen fibers, resulting from an increased breakdown and a diminished de novo synthesis. The increased breakdown results from an increased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). The main building blocks involved in de novo synthesis of collagen fibers are collagen 1A1 and 1A2, the expression of which is reduced in photoaged skin. We studied the effect of topical application of vitamins, phytosterols and ceramides on UV-induced up-regulation of the expression of MMP-1 and on UV-induced down-regulation of COL1A1 and COL1A2. The study was conducted with 10 subjects with healthy skin who were comparatively treated for 10 days with (i) a basic preparation containing jojoba oil, (ii) the basic preparation supplemented with vitamins, (iii) the basic preparation supplemented with phytosterols and ceramides, and (iv) the basic preparation supplemented with vitamins, phytosterols and ceramides. All four preparations inhibited the UV induced up-regulation of MMP-1. Neither the basic product nor that supplemented with vitamins inhibited down-regulation of COL1A1 and COL1A2, but addition of phytosterols and ceramides caused a decreased down-regulation of the expression of these genes. Our results indicate that phytosterols and ceramides are effective in blocking the reduced collagen synthesis after UV irradiation and even stimulating synthesis. They may be useful additions to anti-aging products.

Ceramide and raft signaling are linked with each other in UVA radiation-induced gene expression.

Solar ultraviolet A (UVA) (320-400 nm) radiation-induced gene expression in keratinocytes is initiated at the level of the cell membrane via generation of singlet oxygen and subsequent formation of ceramide from sphingomyelin. We now report that the UVA response also involves raft signaling and that ceramide and raft signaling are linked with each other. Upon UVA irradiation, the lipid composition of rafts decreased 40% in sphingomyelin and 60% in cholesterol (Chol). Also, decrease of Chol increased the susceptibility towards UVA-induced gene expression, whereas increase of Chol completely abolished their capacity to generate signaling ceramides and to mount the subsequent UVA response. This inhibition was not associated with UVA-induced Chol oxidation and was also seen after treatment of cells with plant sterols. The UVA responsiveness depended on the ratio of Chol versus ceramide in rafts. A ratio smaller than 1 permitted initiation and transduction of the signaling response, whereas a ratio greater than 1, for example, upon sterol pretreatment, abolished this response, indicating that UVA radiation-induced ceramide signaling is controlled by the lipid composition of rafts.

Non-enzymatic triggering of the ceramide signalling cascade by solar UVA radiation.

Ceramide is a key component of intracellular stress responses. Evidence is provided for a novel mechanism of ceramide formation that mediates solar ultraviolet (UV) A radiation-induced expression of the intercellular adhesion molecule (ICAM)-1. Similarly to UVA radiation, ceramide stimulation of human keratinocytes induced ICAM-1 mRNA expression and activated the ICAM-1 promoter through transcription factor AP-2. Ceramide-activated AP-2 and ceramide-induced ICAM-1 reporter gene activation were abrogated through deletion of the AP-2 binding site. UVA radiation increased the level of ceramide in keratinocytes and inhibition of sphingomyelin synthesis prevented UVA radiation-induced ICAM-1 expression. Hitherto, two pathways have been identified for ceramide accumulation: hydrolysis from sphingomyelin through neutral and acid sphingomyelinases, and de novo synthesis by ceramide synthase. UVA radiation did not activate any of these enzymes. Ceramide generation in UVA-irradiated cells, however, was inhibited by singlet oxygen quenchers and mimicked in unirradiated cells by a singlet oxygen-generating system. In addition, UVA radiation and singlet oxygen both generated ceramide in protein-free, sphingomyelin-containing liposomes. This study indicates that singlet oxygen triggers a third, non-enzymatic mechanism of ceramide formation.