The anti-wrinkles properties of sodium acetylated hyaluronate.

BACKGROUND: Intrinsic aging promotes wrinkles formation by an imbalance between matrix synthesis/degradation in favor of degradation. This is accelerated by the exposome leading to overproduction of protease and fewer remodeling. OBJECTIVE: Protecting the integrity of extracellular matrix appears as the most efficient anti-aging solution. We developed a grafted HA specifically designed to get anti-aging property due to a specific molecular weight and acetylation degree. METHODS: A transcriptomic analysis was performed on fibroblasts, followed by a measurement of MMP secretion and subsequent effect on collagen degradation. MMP expression in skin explants concerned by chronobiological and extrinsic aging was analyzed by immunostaining. A clinical study was conducted on volunteers presenting wrinkles on face to evaluate flash reduction of wrinkles after 6 h of application by profilometry and anti-aging efficacy after 2 months by VISIA® CR2.3. RESULTS: Transcriptomic analysis evidenced an inhibition of MMP gene expression with acetylated HA, confirmed by an inhibition of MMPs release by fibroblasts, and a protection of type I collagen against degradation. We confirmed the reduction of MMPs in mature skin and in skin explants exposed to UV and urban dust. We demonstrated during clinical studies the flash reduction effect of acetylated HA on crow's feet wrinkles and a filling of nasogenian areas 6 h after application, and a wrinkles number reduction on nasogenian area up to 2 months of application. CONCLUSION: We developed a new grafted HA owing protective properties against ECM degradation induced by chronobiological and extrinsic aging, leading to a significant and efficient anti-wrinkles effect.

Oxidative tryptophan modification by terpene- and squalene-hydroperoxides and a possible link to cross-reactions in diagnostic tests.

Hydroperoxides can act as specific haptens and oxidatively modify proteins. Terpene hydroperoxides trigger unusually high frequencies of positive skin reactions in human patients if tested at high concentrations. It is unknown whether this is due to specific hapten formation. Here, we show that both terpene hydroperoxides and the endogenous hydroperoxide formed from squalene can oxidatively modify tryptophan. Oxidative modifications of Trp were recently postulated to explain cross-sensitization between unrelated photosensitizers. Current observations may extend this hypothesis: Oxidative events triggered by endogenous hydroperoxides and hydroperoxides/oxidants derived from xenobiotics might lead to a sensitized state detected by patch tests with high concentrations of hydroperoxides.

Chemical reactivity and skin sensitization potential for benzaldehydes: can Schiff base formation explain everything?

Skin sensitizers chemically modify skin proteins rendering them immunogenic. Sensitizing chemicals have been divided into applicability domains according to their suspected reaction mechanism. The widely accepted Schiff base applicability domain covers aldehydes and ketones, and detailed structure-activity-modeling for this chemical group was presented. While Schiff base formation is the obvious reaction pathway for these chemicals, the in silico work was followed up by limited experimental work. It remains unclear whether hydrolytically labile Schiff bases can form sufficiently stable epitopes to trigger an immune response in the living organism with an excess of water being present. Here, we performed experimental studies on benzaldehydes of highly differing skin sensitization potential. Schiff base formation toward butylamine was evaluated in acetonitrile, and a detailed SAR study is presented. o-Hydroxybenzaldehydes such as salicylaldehyde and the oakmoss allergens atranol and chloratranol have a high propensity to form Schiff bases. The reactivity is highly reduced in p-hydroxy benzaldehydes such as the nonsensitizing vanillin with an intermediate reactivity for p-alkyl and p-methoxy-benzaldehydes. The work was followed up under more physiological conditions in the peptide reactivity assay with a lysine-containing heptapeptide. Under these conditions, Schiff base formation was only observable for the strong sensitizers atranol and chloratranol and for salicylaldehyde. Trapping experiments with NaBH3CN showed that Schiff base formation occurred under these conditions also for some less sensitizing aldehydes, but the reaction is not favored in the absence of in situ reduction. Surprisingly, the Schiff bases of some weaker sensitizers apparently may react further to form stable peptide adducts. These were identified as the amides between the lysine residues and the corresponding acids. Adduct formation was paralleled by oxidative deamination of the parent peptide at the lysine residue to form the peptide aldehyde. Our results explain the high sensitization potential of the oakmoss allergens by stable Schiff base formation and at the same time indicate a novel pathway for stable peptide-adduct formation and peptide modifications by aldehydes. The results thus may lead to a better understanding of the Schiff base applicability domain.

Tandem cyclopropanation with dibromomethane under Grignard conditions.

Tertiary Grignard reagents and dibromomethane efficiently cyclopropanate allylic (and certain homoallylic) magnesium and lithium alcoholates at ambient temperature in ether solvents. Lithium (homo)allyl alcoholates are directly cyclopropanated with magnesium and CH2Br2 under Barbier conditions at higher temperatures. The reaction rates depend on the substitution pattern of the (homo)allylic alcoholates and on the counterion with lithium giving best results. Good to excellent syn-selectivities are obtained from alpha-substituted substrates, which are in accord with a staggered Houk model. In tandem reactions, cyclopropyl carbinols are obtained from allyloxylithium or -magnesium intermediates, generated in situ by alkylation of conjugated aldehydes, ketones, and esters as well as from allyl carboxylates or vinyloxiranes. Using this methodology, numerous fragrance ingredients and their precursors were efficiently converted to the corresponding cyclopropyl carbinols.

Enzyme-triggered and self-cleaving fragrant alcohol precursors.

The high volatility and water solubility of many natural perfumery alcohols leads to their rapid loss in fabric-care and personal-care applications. A dramatically enhanced substantivity is achieved by the use of fragrance precursors as controlled-release systems. In the first part of this article, we present multi-odorant precursors, in which the enzymatic cleavage of esters or carbonates of fragrant alcohols triggers subsequent steps leading to the release of fragrant ketones, lactones, and additional fragrant alcohols. In the second part, a study on oligocarbonates of fragrant alcohols is presented. Therein, the outstanding enzyme-independent performance of gluconolactone oligocarbonate 27 for the long-lasting release of (Z)-hex-3-en-1-ol is highlighted. We show that these polyfunctional compounds undergo complex rearrangements and intramolecular substitution reactions which lead to the observed release kinetics.

A novel approach to prezizaane sesquiterpenes.

Prezizaane sesquiterpenes are an olfactorily interesting class of tricyclic natural products, which occur in some precious perfumery raw materials. These compounds are biosynthetically derived from farnesyl pyrophosphate via cyclization, but some questions regarding the stereoselectivity of this process have not yet been answered. We discuss a novel and concise access to the tricyclic framework of these sesquiterpenes, as exemplified by the synthesis of (+/-)-5-epi-sesquithuriferone (5-epi-4).

Substituted hepta-1,6-dien-3-ones with green/fruity odours green/galbanum olfactophore model.

Following an analysis of available SAR data on green/galbanum-smelling molecules, a series of new 2-substituted hepta-1,6-dien-3-ones and their analogues were prepared and their olfactory properties evaluated. The study allowed to select efficient new odourants-potential substitutes for natural galbanum oil-and to generate an olfactophore model for the green/galbanum note.