Ultraviolet protective performance of photoprotective lipsticks: change of spectral transmittance because of ultraviolet exposure.

BACKGROUND: Photoinstability of sunscreens because of ultraviolet (UV) exposure is a well-known and common phenomenon. Recently, it was also shown that sunscreens with complex filter combinations are photoinactivated by UV exposures, which can easily be acquired by solar exposure over several hours. OBJECTIVES: To assess the change of the spectral transmission after UV exposure (UV-challenged protective performance) of 27 commercially available photoprotective lipsticks. METHODS: Quartz slides were covered with a lipstick layer (area density 1.0+/-0.1 mg/cm2) and irradiated with increasing doses of solar-simulated radiation. The spectral transmission (T) was measured spectrophotometrically before and after 5, 12.5, 25, and 50 standard erythema doses (SED) of exposure. We calculated the change in transmission (photoinstability) as the difference between the spectral transmission before and after a defined UV exposure, DeltaT, and the arithmetic mean, for both the UVA (DeltaTA) and UVB (DeltaTB) ranges. A product was labelled as photounstable if the mean photoinstability in the UVA, DeltaTA, or UVB range, DeltaTB, was higher than 5% for an UV exposure of 12.5 SED. RESULTS: Eleven products showed a significant photoinstability in the UVA range (DeltaTA between 6% and 27%), only one product in the UVB range (DeltaTB = 13%), and one product in both the UVA (DeltaTA = 31%) and UVB (DeltaTB = 9%) range. In one product photoinstability became significant in the UVA range at higher UV exposures. CONCLUSIONS: Out of 27 lipsticks only 13 products showed a photostable performance (DeltaTA < 5% and DeltaTB < 5% for 12.5 SED). We propose therefore that only products, which fulfil these UV photostability criteria should be marketed.

Assessment of thickness of photoprotective lipsticks and frequency of reapplication: results from a laboratory test and a field experiment.

BACKGROUND: The thickness of the sunscreen layer that is actually applied by consumers under usual conditions has been determined for photoprotective lotions and creams; however, this question is still unanswered for photoprotective lipsticks. OBJECTIVES: To assess lipstick thickness (area density) and frequency of application per day for two commercially available photoprotective lipsticks with different consistency. METHODS: The study consisted of a laboratory test and a field experiment. In the laboratory test the applied lipstick thickness was determined as area density in mg cm(-2) for a group of 28 panellists under standardized conditions. In a separate group of 18 subjects we assessed the area density and the frequency of application per day for two photoprotective lipsticks during a 6-day skiing course. RESULTS: In the laboratory test the median and 95% confidence interval of the area density was 0.98 mg cm(-2) (0.66-1.65) and 0.86 mg cm(-2) (0.63-1.40) for products A and B, respectively. The respective values of the field experiment were 1.58 mg cm(-2) (0.79-2.23) (product A) and 1.76 mg cm(-2) (1.16-3.50) (product B). Only 11% of all applications of lipstick A and 6% of all applications of lipstick B reached the reference area density of 2.0 mg cm(-2). The difference between the median of the area density for lipstick A (firm consistency) and lipstick B (soft consistency) was not statistically significant. No statistically significant influence on the area density was found for age, sex, photobiological skin type or regular lipstick use. The median daily frequency of application was 2.2 times for lipstick A and 3.0 times for lipstick B. CONCLUSION: Our investigation shows that photoprotective lipsticks are applied in a much thinner layer than recommended by international standards (2 mg cm(-2)). This results in a significant reduction of the photoprotective capacity. Furthermore, the frequency of application is too low for adequate protection. Therefore, we propose that the sun protection factor (SPF) should be assessed for an area density that reflects the actual usage patterns. As long as the test protocol is not adapted to the reduced area density, photoprotective lipsticks with high and ultrahigh SPF should be recommended, especially for individuals with increased risk for the development of lip malignancies.

Change of ultraviolet absorbance of sunscreens by exposure to solar-simulated radiation.

Regarding the outdoor behavior of the Caucasian population, modern sunscreens should provide high and broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection in the ultraviolet B as well as in the ultraviolet A range and should be photochemically stable for ultraviolet doses, which can be expected in solar radiation. At present an assessment of the photostability of suncare products is not a general requirement before marketing. In order to evaluate the photostability of suncare products we conducted an in vitro test and measured the spectral absorbance of 16 sunscreens before, and after exposure to increasing biologically weighted standard erythema doses (5, 12.5, 25, 50) of solar-simulated radiation. Seven of 16 suncare products showed a significant dose- and wavelength-dependent decrease of the ultraviolet A protective capacity, whereas the ability to absorb ultraviolet B was not affected. In the ultraviolet A range, the decrease of absorbance (photoinactivation), respectively, the increase of transmission was 12-48% for an ultraviolet exposure of 25 standard erythema dose. Photoinactivation started in the wavelength range between 320 and 335 nm with a maximum above 350 nm. Furthermore, our analysis showed that the behavior of suncare products was not predictable from its individual ingredients. Neither complex combinations of organic filters nor addition of inorganic filters could absolutely prevent photoinactivation. The inclusion of a single photounstable filter did not mean photoinstability of the complete suncare product. Photoinactivation of sunscreens appears to be an underestimated hazard to the skin, first, by formation of free radicals, second, by increased ultraviolet A transmission.