Clinical evaluation of anaesthetic-like effect of two dermocosmetic formulations containing Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 in subjects with sensitive facial skin.

BACKGROUND: Sensitive skin is a common condition of hyper-reactivity to external stimuli, e.g. heat or abrasion. The symptoms are subjective but can be measured using validated emotional and technical methods. Avène water has several beneficial effects on the skin. In vitro studies indicated that the active component of this natural spring water, Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3), modulates cutaneous sensitivity via an anaesthetic-like mechanism. OBJECTIVES: To assess facial skin reactivity after repeated application of two formulations containing ADE-G3. METHODS: In open-label studies, healthy subjects with sensitive facial skin applied cream or balm twice daily for 84 days. The severity of skin sensitivity was measured using the Sensitive Scale (based on quantifying visible or subjective signs). Subjective responses associated with pain or uncomfortable feeling were assessed by measuring electrodermal response (EDR). This involves measuring variations in skin electrical resistance due to non-conscious physiological changes in activity of the sympathetic nervous system. Subjects were also evaluated for beneficial effects according to a quantitative approach using semantic assessment of a question regarding their skin quality. Evaluations were performed before and after the first application, and after 29/30, 56 and 84 days of twice daily use. RESULTS: There was a significant decrease in the EDR after stimuli immediately after the application of both ADE-G3 formulations, which continued to decrease over 84 days (40-50% decrease by D85). Likewise, all physical and functional signs of the Sensitive Scale were significantly decreased immediately after the first application and at all time points tested after treatment. Verbatim analysis revealed a semantic shift, from mainly negative terms on D1 to mainly positive terms at D85 for both tested products. CONCLUSIONS: These results demonstrated that two formulations containing ADE-G3 reduced skin sensitivity, indicating a decreased activation of the sympathetic nervous system associated with this condition.

Cutaneous sensitivity modulation by Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 on in vitro models of neuro-inflammation.

BACKGROUND: Inflammatory skin disorders, including atopic dermatitis (AD), associated pruritus and sensitive skin, have a complex multifactorial pathogenesis including neurogenic inflammation involving the release in blood and skin of neurotransmitters such as substance P (SP). AIMS AND METHODS: In vitro models evaluated the effect of the original biological extract of Aquaphilus dolomiae extract-G3 (ADE-G3) on cutaneous neurogenic inflammation. RESULTS: ADE-G3 significantly inhibited SP-stimulated release of IL-1ß and TNF-α from normal human epidermal keratinocytes; significantly and dose-dependently inhibited SP-stimulated activation of human mast cells; significantly inhibited veratridine-stimulated release of SP from human sensory neurons; modulated expression of genes involved in lipid synthesis, innate immunity, corneocyte scaffolding and epidermal differentiation in a histamine-sensitized reconstructed human epidermis model; and, when applied topically to ex vivo human explants, inhibited IL-8 and histamine release. CONCLUSIONS: Topically applied ADE-G3, once formulated, may improve neuro-inflammation in patients with inflammatory skin disorders.

Additional pharmacological activity of I-modulia and generation of two newly designed extracts of Aquaphilus dolomiae culture for dermocosmetic actives.

Aquaphilus dolomiae (AD) is a unique isolate from Avène Thermal Spring Water. I-Modulia, the first biotech extract from culture of AD, was used as immune modulator in Th2 inflammatory models. In this short publication, firstly we describe generation of two AD de novo extracts specifically designed for repairing and for neuroinflammation modulation activities which will be described, respectively, in two other articles in this supplement. Finally, for I-modulia, we describe new data on inhibition of human mast cell degranulation in vitro and its effect on substance P-induced neurogenic inflammation on ex vivo human skin explants.

Effective inhibition of Th17/Th22 pathway in 2D and 3D human models of psoriasis by Celastrol enriched plant cell culture extract.

BACKGROUND: Psoriasis is an immune-mediated inflammatory disease in which the Th17 pathway is mainly involved. Systemic interventions with biologics that specifically block the Th17 pathway are effective to treat severe psoriasis. However, for efficient topical treatment, small molecules are more suitable than antibodies to penetrate and target epidermal keratinocytes, the key players in psoriasis. Celastrol, a well-described triterpene, is present in low amounts in Tripterygium wilfordii roots. By using plant cell culture (PCC), we were able to boost Celastrol production in bioreactors. Here, we evaluated immune modulator effect of Celastrol enriched extract (CEE) in Th17/Th22 psoriasis induced in 2D and 3D human models in vitro in view of its dermatological usage. METHODS: Human CD4+ T cells (hCD4), Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK), micro-epidermis and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) were preincubated with CEE and reference controls. Then, hCD4 were stimulated by anti-[CD3/CD28] while others were stimulated by Th17/22 cytokines cocktails. Psoriasis biomarkers were assessed by ELISA (hCD4 and RHE), by RT-qPCR (NHEK) or by ICH/ELISA (micro-epidermis). RESULTS: In 2D stimulated models (hCD4 and NHEK), CEE dose dependently inhibited, respectively, the expression of Th17 cytokines and psoriasis induced biomarkers. In 3D models (RHE and micro-epidermis), IL-8 expression was significantly reduced (RHE) and native phenotype was restored by CEE (micro-epidermis). CONCLUSION: These results clearly showed that Th17/Th22 cytokines, main inflammatory parameters, and psoriasis associated key biomarkers were inhibited by CEE in both 2D and 3D human in vitro models. Therefore, skin homeostasis could be restored by these modulator effects. Moreover, this high added value CEE was obtained by an ecofriendly bioprocess in contrast to traditional roots extracts. This is the first time that a well-defined CEE immune modulator has been proposed for psoriasis adjuvant care to reduce inflammation.

Activités immunomodulatrice, anti-inflammatoire, antiprurigineuse et tolérogénique induites par I-modulia®, un extrait issu de culture d'Aquaphilus dolomiae, dans les modèles pharmacologiques de dermatite atopique: Immunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, anti-pruritus and tolerogenic activities induced by I-modulia®, an Aquaphilus dolomiae culture extract, in atopic dermatitis pharmacology models.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an inflammatory and pruritic dermatosis of multifactorial origin. Topical steroids are the first line treatment for severe AD however alternatives treatment are increasingly needed. A biological concentrate was elaborated from culture of an Avène aquatic microflora isolate namely Aquaphilus dolomiae. Numerous extracts were evaluated in relevant AD in vitro models with human keratinocytes. Among these extracts, a particular one I-modulia® was found to be remarkable in terms of pharmacological activities: innate immunity modulating by agonizing Toll like receptor (TLR)2, TLR4 and TLR5, induction of anti-microbial peptides, inhibition of cytokines characteristics of T helper (Th)1, Th2 and Th17 responses, inhibition of Protease-activated-receptor (PAR) 2 and Thymic-stromal-lymphopoeitin (TSLP) both being known to be upregulated in pruritus. Additionally, when human dendritic cells (DC) were stimulated in vitro by Staphylococcus aureus secretomes from AD children lesions, I-modulia® was capable to induce IL-10 secretion to activate regular T lymphocytes and rendered DC tolerogenic. I-modulia®, extract of biotech origin incorporated in emollient, displays anti-inflammatory, anti-pruritus activities, restores homeostasis immune and ameliorates AD in young infant.

Fragility of epidermis in newborns, children and adolescents.

Within their first days of life, newborns' skin undergoes various adaptation processes needed to accommodate the transition from the wet uterine environment to the dry atmosphere. The skin of newborns and infants is considered as a physiological fragile skin, a skin with lower resistance to aggressions. Fragile skin is divided into four categories up to its origin: physiological fragile skin (age, location), pathological fragile skin (acute and chronic), circumstantial fragile skin (due to environmental extrinsic factors or intrinsic factors such as stress) and iatrogenic fragile skin. Extensive research of the past 10 years have proven evidence that at birth albeit showing a nearly perfect appearance, newborn skin is structurally and functionally immature compared to adult skin undergoing a physiological maturation process after birth at least throughout the first year of life. This article is an overview of all known data about fragility of epidermis in 'fragile populations': newborns, children and adolescents. It includes the recent pathological, pathophysiological and clinical data about fragility of epidermis in various dermatological diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, acne, rosacea, contact dermatitis, irritative dermatitis and focus on UV protection.

Characterization of a human epidermis model reconstructed from hair follicle keratinocytes and comparison with two commercially models and native skin.

OBJECTIVE: Outer root sheath (ORS) cells of human hair follicles are a readily available, non-invasive source of keratinocytes for epidermis reconstruction. The aim of this study was to characterize a model of epidermis reconstructed from ORS cells (ORS-derived model) and to evaluate its reproducibility, in comparison with native human skin and two marketed reconstructed skin models (model A, Episkin(®) and model B, Skinethic(®) ). METHODS: Cell morphology and tissue architecture of the three models were analysed histologically and proliferation and differentiation marker expression by immunohistochemistry and mRNA quantification. RESULTS: All models displayed the same general epidermal architecture as native epidermis, but with a thicker stratum corneum in models A and B. Compared with native epidermis, Ki67 was correctly localized in epidermal basal cells in all models, as K10 in suprabasal layers. In all skin models, transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) was prematurely expressed in suprabasal layers. However, this expression was only observed from the upper stratum spinosum in the ORS-derived model. In this model, filaggrin and loricrin were correctly located in the stratum granulosum. Filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin and TGM1 mRNAs (markers of keratinocyte terminal differentiation) were transcriptionally expressed in all models. In the ORS-derived model, transcriptional expression level was similar to that of native skin. CONCLUSION: ORS cell-based reconstructed epidermis is a valid and reproducible model for human epidermis and it may be used to evaluate the effects of active substances and cosmetic formulations.

In vitro approaches to pharmacological screening in the field of atopic dermatitis.

In vitro models are valuable for evaluating potential active ingredients and other molecules used in medications for atopic dermatitis (AD). However, finding appropriate in vitro models can be problematic. Our strategy was to set up different in vitro models that would mimic the pathomechanisms of AD. We describe five such models - the AD keratinocyte model, the AD reconstructed human epidermis model, the adaptive immunity model, the innate immunity model and the pruritus model - which we have used to evaluate a new ingredient for emollients derived from a biological extract. The models chosen provide useful data for the pharmacological characterization of active ingredients in adjunctive treatments for AD.

Fragility of epidermis and its consequence in dermatology.

The skin is the largest organ of the body, providing a protective barrier against bacteria, chemicals and physical insults while maintaining homeostasis in the internal environment. Such a barrier function the skin ensures protection against excessive water loss. The skin's immune defence consists of several facets, including immediate, non-specific mechanisms (innate immunity) and delayed, stimulus-specific responses (adaptive immunity), which contribute to fending off a wide range of potentially invasive microorganisms. This article is an overview of all known data about 'fragile skin'. Fragile skin is defined as skin with lower resistance to aggressions. Fragile skin can be classified into four categories up to its origin: physiological fragile skin (age, location), pathological fragile skin (acute and chronic), circumstantial fragile skin (due to environmental extrinsic factors or intrinsic factors such as stress) and iatrogenic fragile skin. This article includes the epidemiologic data, pathologic description of fragile skin with pathophysiological bases (mechanical and immunological role of skin barrier) and clinical description of fragile skin in atopic dermatitis, in acne, in rosacea, in psoriasis, in contact dermatitis and other dermatologic pathologies. This article includes also clinical cases and differential diagnosis of fragile skin (reactive skin) in face in adult population. In conclusion, fragile skin is very frequent worldwide and its prevalence varies between 25% and 52% in Caucasian, African and Asian population.

Anti-inflammatory properties of a new undecyl-rhamnoside (APRC11) against P. acnes.

Acne vulgaris is a skin disease affecting pilosebaceous glands in which Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) induced inflammation plays a central role. In order to develop new therapies against the inflammatory events, we evaluated the modulating effect of a new undecyl-rhamnoside, APRC11, on different markers of the inflammation. For this purpose, normal human keratinocytes taken from five healthy donors were pre-incubated for 24 h with APRC11 or Zinc Gluconate (Zn) which was used as reference molecule for its anti-inflammatory properties. Then, keratinocytes were stimulated with P. acnes Membrane Fraction for 6 h, in the presence of either APRC11 or Zn. Different markers were evaluated at mRNA level using a Luminex-based Quantigene array system and at protein level using an ELISA test and a Luminex array system. Results showed that P. acnes significantly increased the expression of IL-1α, IL-1RA, IL-8 and MMP-9. A 24-h treatment with APRC11 prior to the P. acnes stimulation down-regulated the P. acnes-induced cytokines over expression (IL-1α, IL-8 and MMP-9) and up-regulated IL-1RA level in a similar manner than Zn. These regulations were noted at both protein and mRNA levels. In conclusion, the new undecyl-rhamnoside APRC11 is able to down-regulate the expression of molecules implicated in cutaneous inflammation and whose expression is induced by P. acnes, confirming its potential interest in inflammatory acne.

Avène Thermal Spring Water: an active component with specific properties.

Avène Thermal Spring Water (TSW) is a natural active component characterized by a low mineral content. In vitro experiments have demonstrated the effect of Avène TSW on membrane fluidity, its antiradical and anti-inflammatory properties, its effects on many mediators involved in the immune response and its stimulating effect on keratinocyte differentiation. The clinical efficacy of the water was demonstrated at the hydrotherapy centre in chronic and disabling diseases such as atopic dermatitis but also in various settings in medical and post dermatology procedure such as photodynamic therapy or photothermolysis. All these data support the fact that the Avène TSW is an active component.

Inhibition of TNF-alpha induced-adhesion molecules by Avène Thermal Spring Water in human endothelial cells.

BACKGROUND: Cell adhesion molecules, such as E-selectin or intercellular adhesion molecule 1 (ICAM-1), play an important role in mediating leucocyte capture and rolling on the surface of blood vessels in atopic skin. The effectiveness of Avène hydrotherapy in patients suffering from atopic dermatitis has previously been demonstrated. Thus, we examined the effect of Avène Thermal Spring Water (TSW) on adhesion molecules to understand its mechanism of action. METHODS: Human endothelial cells EA.hy926 were treated with tumour necrosis factor-α (TNFα) in the presence or not of Avène TSW during 4 h. As nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) is involved in the signalisation of inflammatory mediators such as the adhesion molecules, the translocation of NF-κB in endothelial cells was assessed by immunohistochemistry with anti-NF-κBp65. The protein and mRNA levels of TNFα-induced ICAM-1 and E-selectin were assessed by ELISA assay and RT-PCR. These adhesion molecules were also detected by immunohistochemistry. RESULTS: Tumour necrosis factor-α induced the activation of p65 NF-κB nuclear translocation. TNFα also induced E-selectin and ICAM-1 in a dose-dependant manner in EA.hy926 endothelial cells. In the presence of Avène TSW, a significant inhibition of the TNFα-induced E-selectin and ICAM-1 expression (-22% and -7%, respectively, P < 0.05) was observed. CONCLUSION: These data suggest that Avène TSW mediated inhibition of TNFα-induced E-selectin and ICAM-1 expression. The inhibition of such adhesion molecules is attributable to the suppression of NF-κB transcription factor pathway activation.

Acceleration of keratinocyte differentiation by transient receptor potential vanilloid (TRPV6) channel activation.

BACKGROUND: Numerous studies have demonstrated the beneficial effect of Avène Thermal Spring Water (TSW) in dermatological diseases but the molecular mechanisms remain unknown. The objective of the present study was to evaluate the effect of Avène TSW on the morphological and molecular features related to the more advanced status of differentiation of human keratinocytes. MATERIAL AND METHODS: Normal human keratinocytes (NHK) were differentiated in medium powder reconstituted with Avène TSW and assessed by RT-PCR and immunohistochemistry. Calcium entry was measured by a Fura-2 AM probe. TRPV6 channel were detected by immunohistochemistry, RT-PCR and western blot. RESULTS: Treatment of NHK with Avène TSW led to an enhanced constitutive calcium entry that resulted in the increased expression of involucrin and cytokeratins 1 and 10. This enhanced constitutive calcium entry in Avène TSW-treated keratinocytes was mediated by the TRPV6 calcium channel. Moreover, Avène TSW-mediated calcium entry was due to the increase in TRPV6 expression as well as the channel abundance at the cell membrane. CONCLUSIONS: An other mechanism of action of Avène TSW is described. Avène TSW treatment induced an enhanced constitutive calcium entry mediated by TRPV6 channel leading to the acceleration of human keratinocytes differentiation.

Modulation of integrins and filaggrin expression by Propionibacterium acnes extracts on keratinocytes.

Propionibacterium acnes plays an important role in the pathogenesis of acne and it is established that this bacteria is involved in the induction and maintenance of the inflammatory phase of acne. The aim of our work was to determine if P. acnes extracts could modulate integrins and filaggrin in vitro expression by keratinocytes. Integrins and filaggrin expression was examined using immunohistochemistry technique both on Normal Human Epiderminal Keratinocytes (NHEK) and on deep-frozen sections of normal human skin explants incubated with three different P. acnes extracts. In addition, the expression of filaggrin was investigated on biopsies of acne lesions and by western-blot associated with its precursor profilaggrin. We demonstrated that P. acnes extracts induced beta1 integrin expression significantly on both proliferating keratinocytes and differentiated keratinocytes. In addition, P. acnes induced alpha3, alpha6s and alphaVbeta6 integrin expression and filaggrin expression on differentiated keratinocytes. Finally P. acnes extracts increased filaggrin expression by suprabasal layer of epidermis of explants. Western-blot confirmed that total amount of filaggrin was increased. These results indicate that P. acnes extracts are directly able to modulate the differentiation of keratinocytes suggesting that this bacteria play a role not only in the development of inflammatory acne lesions but also in the formation of the microcomedo.

[Implication of VEGF, steroid hormones and neuropeptides in hair follicle cell responses]. / Rôles du VEGF, des hormones stéroïdes et des neuropeptides dans les réponses cellulaires des follicules pilaires.

Human hair follicles progress independently through the anagen, catagen, telogen and latency phases that correspond to growth arrest and hair shedding before initiation of a new anagen phase. Hair follicles are self-renewing and contain reservoirs of multi-potent stem cells. Identification of the messenger molecules and pathways operating in the growth and cycling of hair follicles, have provided substantial data. However, only a limited number of these signals is well understood. The specific response of hair follicle cells to these signals is correlated with the expression of their corresponding receptors. What regulates these responses? In this review, we will focus on the hair cycle and its control mechanisms. We will provide some elements in answer to these questions and present some of the markers of hair follicle cells, and hormonal and vascular growth factors, which may regulate respectively hair follicle cell metabolism and cycle, and the neuropeptide impact on hair follicle response and hair growth. The results of our study show the modifications in various expression patterns of receptors in dermal papilla cells, and demonstrate the cross-interaction between these different components. In conclusion, we present an accumulation of evidence suggesting that the regulation of hair growth requires a combination of hormonal, vascular and neuropeptide approaches that will provide further insight in defining new treatments for hair loss.