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1.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 45(2): 236-245, 2023 Apr.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-36573829

ABSTRACT

BACKGROUND: Dandruff is a pervasive chronic condition which negatively impacts quality of life. Effective treatment requires efficient delivery of scalp benefit agents that control commensal scalp Malassezia levels. Delivery of benefit agents from shampoos requires balancing many technical parameters to achieve the desired outcome without sacrificing secondary parameters, such as cosmetic attributes. AIM: To develop formulation technologies that increase the shampoo delivery efficiency of the scalp benefit agent piroctone olamine (PO). Increased delivery should result in increased anti-dandruff efficacy. METHODS: Micellar Stability and Association parameters were quantified via dynamic surface tension and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) diffusion parameters, respectively. PO delivery has been assessed in vivo both on the scalp surface and follicular infindibula using extraction procedures and analytical analysis. Clinical anti-dandruff efficacy was assessed for an advanced delivery technology prototype in comparison to standard delivery technology. RESULTS: Shampoo prototypes have been developed that increase the delivery efficiency of PO. Both surfactant and polymer coacervate-based approaches have been developed. Decreased micellar stability results in weaker association between PO and micelles, resulting in more efficient PO retention on the scalp surface and delivery to the infundibula. Increased charge density of cationic polymers optimizes coacervation enabling improved PO delivery as well. Increased PO delivery has been shown clinically to result in higher anti-dandruff efficacy as measured by both visible flakes and underlying biomarkers. CONCLUSION: Increased efficiency PO delivery shampoos have been developed by optimization of both surfactant and coacervate parameters. The increased deposition efficiency results in significantly more products with significantly greater anti-dandruff efficacy.


CONTEXTE: Les pellicules sont une maladie chronique omniprésente qui a un impact négatif sur la qualité de vie. Un traitement efficace nécessite une administration efficace d'agents bénéfiques pour le cuir chevelu qui contrôlent les niveaux commensaux de Malassezia. L'administration d'agents bénéfiques à partir de shampooings nécessite d'équilibrer de nombreux paramètres techniques pour obtenir le résultat souhaité sans sacrifier des paramètres secondaires tels que les attributs cosmétiques. BUT: Développer des technologies de formulation qui augmentent l'efficacité d'administration du shampooing de l'agent bénéfique pour le cuir chevelu piroctone olamine (PO). Une livraison accrue devrait entraîner une efficacité antipelliculaire accrue. MÉTHODES: La stabilité micellaire et les paramètres d'association ont été quantifiés via les paramètres de tension superficielle dynamique et de diffusion RMN, respectivement. L'administration de PO a été évaluée in vivo à la fois sur la surface du cuir chevelu et sur l'indibula folliculaire à l'aide de procédures d'extraction et d'analyses analytiques. L'efficacité antipelliculaire clinique a été évaluée pour un prototype de technologie d'administration avancée par rapport à la technologie d'administration standard. RÉSULTATS: Des prototypes de shampooing ont été développés pour augmenter l'efficacité de livraison des PO. Des approches à base de tensioactifs et de coacervats polymères ont été développées. Une diminution de la stabilité micellaire entraîne une association plus faible entre le PO et les micelles, ce qui entraîne une rétention plus efficace du PO sur la surface du cuir chevelu et une livraison à l'infundibula. L'augmentation de la densité de charge des polymères cationiques optimise la coacervation, permettant également une meilleure administration de PO. Il a été démontré cliniquement que l'augmentation de l'administration de PO entraîne une efficacité antipelliculaire plus élevée, mesurée à la fois par les squames visibles et les biomarqueurs sous-jacents. CONCLUSION: Des shampooings à libération de PO à efficacité accrue ont été développés en optimisant à la fois les paramètres du tensioactif et du coacervat. L'efficacité de dépôt accrue se traduit par beaucoup plus de produits avec une efficacité antipelliculaire nettement supérieure.


Subject(s)
Dandruff , Dermatitis, Seborrheic , Dermatologic Agents , Hair Preparations , Humans , Quality of Life , Hair Preparations/chemistry , Pyridones/therapeutic use , Dandruff/drug therapy , Dermatologic Agents/therapeutic use , Scalp , Surface-Active Agents
2.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 43 Suppl 1: S26-S33, 2021 Nov.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34424549

ABSTRACT

OBJECTIVE: Increasing scalp hair fullness is a global unmet consumer need. An approach to decrease hair shedding by reducing scalp stratum corneum oxidation via a combination of antioxidant and barrier-enhancing technologies has been previously demonstrated. The purpose of this study was to test the effectiveness of the individual antioxidant piroctone olamine in two different product forms (shampoo or leave-on product) for activity to improve hair retention. METHODS: Female subjects with self-perceived hair thinning participated in an 8-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical study to evaluate either a piroctone olamine (PO) containing shampoo or a PO containing leave on treatment, each relative to their corresponding placebo formulation Too many periods. Results for phototrichograms, TEWL, and biomarker analysis of scalp condition for the shampoo treatments are discussed. Phototrichogram results are shared for the assessment of the leave on treatment. RESULTS: Statistically significant increases in hair amount were observed by phototrichogram after use of both PO-containing products versus placebo formulations. The PO shampoo treatment also significantly decreased oxidative stress on the hair and scalp, and improved scalp condition as assessed by TEWL and scalp biomarker values. CONCLUSION: These results illustrate the effectiveness of a cosmetic antioxidant to improve scalp condition thereby improving hair retention. The observed improvements in scalp condition are consistent with previous reports with other antioxidant technologies and suggest that the hair retention effect was achieved by preventing oxidative damage to the scalp.


Subject(s)
Alopecia/drug therapy , Antioxidants/therapeutic use , Ethanolamines/therapeutic use , Hair Preparations/therapeutic use , Pyridones/therapeutic use , Scalp/drug effects , Administration, Topical , Adult , Aged , Antioxidants/administration & dosage , Double-Blind Method , Drug Combinations , Ethanolamines/administration & dosage , Female , Hair Preparations/administration & dosage , Humans , Middle Aged , Pyridones/administration & dosage
3.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 43 Suppl 1: S14-S25, 2021 Nov.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34424558

ABSTRACT

OBJECTIVE: Increasing hair fullness is a global unmet need for many men and women. An approach to the problem is to decrease hair fall or shedding by reducing scalp stratum corneum oxidation and barrier damage to increase hair retention. This study evaluated a combination of functional antioxidants and barrier-enhancing cosmetic ingredients to improve scalp condition thereby enabling stronger hair anchorage and longer retention. METHODS: Male and female subjects with normal scalp condition and self-perceived hair thinning participated in a 24-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized clinical study assessing either a regimen of treatment shampoo and leave-on treatment containing functional antioxidant and barrier-enhancing agents or an identical placebo chassis shampoo control. The functional ingredients were piroctone olamine, zinc pyrithione, zinc carbonate, niacinamide, panthenol and caffeine. At baseline and after 8, 16 and 24 weeks of product use, several measurements were taken: hair shedding, total hair count (by phototrichogram), hair samples, TEWL and evaluation of biomarkers of scalp and hair conditions. Subjects also completed self-assessment questionnaires. RESULTS: Statistically significant effects for functional ingredient-containing treatment regimen versus a placebo control shampoo formulation were observed for reduced hair shedding, increased total hair count, reduced TEWL and improvement in scalp biomarker values. Subjects also noticed these improvements assessed via self-assessment questionnaires. CONCLUSIONS: These results establish that the use of functional antioxidant and barrier-enhancing agents to further improve scalp condition can enable a reduction in hair shedding and thus an increase in perceived hair fullness. The underlying improvements in scalp condition suggest the hair benefits were achieved as a result of improved scalp skin barrier and scalp condition leading to a viable preventative approach for hair thinning.


Subject(s)
Alopecia/drug therapy , Antioxidants/therapeutic use , Hair Preparations/therapeutic use , Scalp/drug effects , Administration, Topical , Adult , Aged , Antioxidants/administration & dosage , Biomarkers/blood , Double-Blind Method , Hair Preparations/administration & dosage , Humans , Male , Middle Aged
4.
Int J Cosmet Sci ; 43 Suppl 1: S34-S41, 2021 Nov.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-34426987

ABSTRACT

OBJECTIVE: Determining the amount of hair on the scalp has always been an important metric of patient satisfaction for hair growth and hair retention technologies. While simple in concept, this measurement is a difficult, resource intensive task for the dermatologist and the research scientist. Specifically, counting and measuring hair in phototrichogram images is very time consuming and labour intensive. Due to cost, often only a fraction of available images is manually analysed. There is a need for an automated method that can significantly increase speed and throughput while reducing the cost of counting and measuring hair in phototrichogram images. METHODS: Recent advances in machine learning and deep convolutional neural networks (deep learning) have led to a revolution in the analysis of image, video, speech, text and other sensor data. Image diagnostics have seen remarkable improvements with completely automated methods outperforming both human experts and human-engineered analysis methods. Deep learning methods can also provide speed and cost benefits. To enable use of a deep learning, we created a data set of 288 manually annotated phototrichogram images with marked location and length of each hair (the training dataset). We designed a custom neural network architecture and custom image processing algorithms to best utilize the available training data and to maximize performance for hair counting and length measurement. The performance of the algorithm was qualified by comparing hair count and length measurements to an independent ground truth method, the semi-manual Canfield's Hair Metrix method. RESULTS: Leveraging deep neural networks, we have developed capability to apply machine learning to reduce the time needed to acquire data from phototrichograms of patients' scalp from months to seconds. Our algorithm enables fast and fully automated hair counting and length measurement. The algorithm shows high agreement with human manually assisted analysis (ground truth). CONCLUSIONS: We have trained and deployed an algorithm utilizing this technology and have demonstrated the reproducibility, accuracy and speed of this algorithm that, once deployed, requires little to no recurring cost or manual intervention for its operation. The method allows fast analysis of large number of images, reducing study cost and significantly reducing study analysis time.


Subject(s)
Hair/anatomy & histology , Image Processing, Computer-Assisted , Machine Learning , Aged , Double-Blind Method , Female , Humans , Middle Aged
5.
Mol Cell Biol ; 31(11): 2341-8, 2011 Jun.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-21464206

ABSTRACT

Linker histones play essential roles in the chromatin structure of higher eukaryotes. While binding to the surface of nucleosomes is directed by an ∼ 80-amino-acid-residue globular domain, the structure and interactions of the lysine-rich ∼ 100-residue C-terminal domain (CTD), primarily responsible for the chromatin-condensing functions of linker histones, are poorly understood. By quantitatively analyzing binding of a set of H1 CTD deletion mutants to nucleosomes containing various lengths of linker DNA, we have identified interactions between distinct regions of the CTD and nucleosome linker DNA at least 21 bp from the edge of the nucleosome core. Importantly, partial CTD truncations caused increases in H1 binding affinity, suggesting that significant entropic costs are incurred upon binding due to CTD folding. van't Hoff entropy/enthalpy analysis and intramolecular fluorescent resonance energy transfer (FRET) studies indicate that the CTD undergoes substantial nucleosome-directed folding, in a manner that is distinct from that which occurs upon H1 binding to naked DNA. In addition to defining critical interactions between the H1 CTD and linker DNA, our data indicate that the H1 CTD is an intrinsically disordered domain and provide important insights into the biological function of this protein.


Subject(s)
DNA/metabolism , Histones/chemistry , Histones/metabolism , Nucleosomes/metabolism , Amino Acid Motifs , Amino Acid Sequence , Animals , Chromatin/ultrastructure , Entropy , Gene Expression , Histones/ultrastructure , Protein Binding , Protein Folding , Protein Structure, Tertiary , Sequence Deletion , Xenopus laevis
6.
Biochem Cell Biol ; 89(1): 35-44, 2011 Feb.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-21326361

ABSTRACT

Linker histones are multifunctional proteins that are involved in a myriad of processes ranging from stabilizing the folding and condensation of chromatin to playing a direct role in regulating gene expression. However, how this class of enigmatic proteins binds in chromatin and accomplishes these functions remains unclear. Here we review data regarding the H1 structure and function in chromatin, with special emphasis on the C-terminal domain (CTD), which typically encompasses approximately half of the mass of the linker histone and includes a large excess of positively charged residues. Owing to its amino acid composition, the CTD was previously proposed to function in chromatin as an unstructured polycation. However, structural studies have shown that the CTD adopts detectable secondary structure when interacting with DNA and macromolecular crowding agents. We describe classic and recent experiments defining the function of this domain in chromatin folding and emerging data indicating that the function of this protein may be linked to intrinsic disorder.


Subject(s)
Chromatin/chemistry , DNA/chemistry , DNA/genetics , Histones/chemistry , Histones/genetics , Chromatin/genetics , DNA-Binding Proteins , Heterochromatin/chemistry , Heterochromatin/genetics , Nucleosomes , Phosphorylation/genetics , Protein Binding/genetics , Protein Conformation , Protein Structure, Secondary/genetics , Protein Structure, Tertiary/genetics , Structure-Activity Relationship
7.
Mol Cell Biol ; 29(2): 538-46, 2009 Jan.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-19001093

ABSTRACT

The condensation of nucleosome arrays into higher-order secondary and tertiary chromatin structures likely involves long-range internucleosomal interactions mediated by the core histone tail domains. We have characterized interarray interactions mediated by the H4 tail domain, known to play a predominant role in the formation of such structures. We find that the N-terminal end of the H4 tail mediates interarray contacts with DNA during self-association of oligonucleosome arrays similar to that found previously for the H3 tail domain. However, a site near the histone fold domain of H4 participates in a distinct set of interactions, contacting both DNA and H2A in condensed structures. Moreover, we also find that H4-H2A interactions occur via an intra- as well as an internucleosomal fashion, supporting an additional intranucleosomal function for the tail. Interestingly, acetylation of the H4 tail has little effect on interarray interactions by itself but overrides the strong stimulation of interarray interactions induced by linker histones. Our results indicate that the H4 tail facilitates secondary and tertiary chromatin structure formation via a complex array of potentially exclusive interactions that are distinct from those of the H3 tail domain.


Subject(s)
Chromatin Assembly and Disassembly/physiology , Histones/metabolism , Nucleosomes/metabolism , Animals , Chromatin Assembly and Disassembly/genetics , DNA/metabolism , Histones/chemistry , Histones/genetics , Histones/physiology , Mutation/physiology , Nucleic Acid Conformation , Nucleosomes/genetics , Oligonucleotide Array Sequence Analysis/methods , Protein Conformation , Protein Folding , Protein Interaction Domains and Motifs/genetics , Protein Interaction Domains and Motifs/physiology
9.
Biochim Biophys Acta ; 1708(1): 6-12, 2005 Jun 01.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-15949979

ABSTRACT

In wild-type proteorhodopsin (pR), titration of the chromophore's counterion Asp(97) occurs with a pK(a) of 8.2+/-0.1. R94C mutation reduces this slightly to 7.0+/-0.2, irrespective of treatment with ethylguanidinium. This contrasts with the homologous archaeal protein bacteriorhodopsin (bR), where R82C mutation was previously shown to elevate the pK(a) of Asp(85) by approximately 5 units, while reconstitution with ethylguanidinium restores it nearly to the wild-type value of 2.5. We conclude there is much weaker electrostatic coupling between Arg(94) and Asp(97) in the unphotolyzed state of pR, in comparison to Arg(82) and Asp(85) in bR. Therefore, while fast light-driven H(+) release may depend on these two residues in pR as in bR, no tightly conserved pre-photolysis configuration of them is required.


Subject(s)
Arginine/chemistry , Bacteriorhodopsins/chemistry , Rhodopsin/chemistry , Aspartic Acid/chemistry , Hydrogen-Ion Concentration , Rhodopsin/genetics , Rhodopsins, Microbial , Schiff Bases , Spectrophotometry, Ultraviolet
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