Adaptation of the protocol for determining in vitro the sun protection factor of anti-solar sticks.

Apart from the protection offered by clothing, the application of sunscreen products suited to each type of skin constitutes one way for decreasing the frequency of skin cancers nowadays. After having adapted an in vitro method for determining the efficacy of sunscreens in emulsion form, we wished to transpose this technique by adapting it for the anti-solar sticks for the evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. To do this, we tested 14 products in the market as well as sticks that we ourselves fabricated in the laboratory. In a base common to all of these sticks, we added organic (13 filters tested) and inorganic (two filters tested, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) to their maximum permitted concentration in the European Union. In parallel, emulsions containing the same filters at the same percentage of use were studied; to be in keeping with the results on the products packaging on the one hand, and with the results obtained for the emulsion form on the other hand, we were able to determine the optimal mass which needed to be placed on the support used the in vitro test to determine the SPF.

Development of an in vitro test to determine the water-resistance of sunscreens.

The aim of this work was to develop an in vitro method for testing the water resistance of sun products. For comparison, we used the in vivo method put forward by the Colipa. Standards and commercial products were successive baths. The Sun protection factor of these different creams was determined in vitro both before and after the baths. The result was that two successive baths of 20 min in moderately shaken distilled water, at 29 +/- 2 degrees C and may substitute the in vivo test.

Emulsifying properties of biodegradable polylactide-grafted dextran copolymers.

Amphiphilic glycopolymers, polylactide-grafted dextran copolymers (Dex-g-PLA), were synthesized with a well-controlled architecture obtained through a three-step procedure: partial silylation of the dextran hydroxyl groups, ring-opening polymerization of D,L-lactide initiated from remaining hydroxyl groups, silylether deprotection under very mild conditions. Depending on their proportion in polylactide (PLA), these copolymers exhibited solubility either in water or in organic solvents. The emulsifying properties of these glycopolymers were studied: depending on their PLA-to-dextran ratio, they were able to stabilize either direct or inverse emulsions. Droplet size was related to the amount of amphiphilic copolymer in the continuous phase. The aging mechanism of both direct and inverse emulsions was shown to be Ostwald ripening in the first weeks following preparation. Finally inverse miniemulsion copolymerization of acrylamide and N, N'-methylenebisacrylamide was performed in the presence of an amphiphilic Dex-g-PLA stabilizer. Polyacrylamide hydrogel nanoparticles were prepared in that way.