Performance Assessment for Rock Climbers: The International Rock Climbing Research Association Sport-Specific Test Battery.

PURPOSE: To examine the validity and reliability of a battery of 10 measures designed to assess the key physiological parameters for successful rock climbing performance. METHODS: In phase 1 of the research, an expert panel, using the Delphi method, established a 10-item test battery based on the key determinants of climbing performance. In phase 2, the tests were assessed for validity and reliability to examine their suitability as sport-specific measures of rock climbing performance. A total of 132 rock climbers, from 7 countries, volunteered to take part in the study. Each climber visited their nearest laboratory on 3 separate occasions in order to enable the required tests and retests to be completed. A minimum of 7 days was allowed between visits. RESULTS: The 10 tests established for phase 2 were designed as sport-specific measures of flexibility, strength, power, and endurance. Results indicated that, while reliable, the flexibility and strength tests were only partially successful in differentiating across climber abilities. The power and endurance tests, however, performed well with regard to validity and reliability, with the finger hang and powerslap tests being most strongly correlated with performance ability (P < .0005 to P < .002). CONCLUSION: The authors' data suggest that climbing may require a threshold level of flexibility and strength for successful performance, beyond which further improvements may not be required. In contrast, the finger hang and powerslap tests were not only reliable measures but also differentiated between climber abilities from lower grade to elite levels.

Lactate Concentration Is Related to Skin Temperature Variation After a Specific Incremental Judo Test.

ABSTRACT: Gomes Moreira, D, José Brito, C, de Almeida Ferreira, JJ, Bouzas Marins, JC, López Díaz de Durana, A, Couceiro Canalejo, J, Butragueño Revenga, J, and Sillero-Quintana, M. Lactate concentration is related to skin temperature variation after a specific incremental judo test. J Strength Cond Res 35(8): 2213-2221, 2021-This study aimed to analyze the skin temperature (tsk) response in judokas after a specific incremental test and to determine whether anthropometric and physiological measures can be explained by the variation in mean tsk. A total of 23 male judo athletes (age: 20.1 ± 4.7 years; height: 173.1 ± 8.1 cm; and body mass: 71.7 ± 8.1 kg) performed a specific incremental judo test. Skin temperature evaluations were collected in 26 regions of interest (ROIs), and the mean tsk was calculated using an equation including 10 of them. The time points before the test (pre-test), immediately after (0 minutes), and after 5, 10, and 15 minutes of the test were established to measure the tsk, mean tsk, auricular temperature (tau), and blood lactate (LAC). The athletes completed a mean of 7.0 ± 1.0 stages of the test, 95% confidence interval (CI; 6.2-7.1). The V̇o2peak achieved was 48.7 ± 5.3 ml·kg-1·min-1, 95% CI (46.4-51.0). Compared with pre-test values, only the forehead significantly decreased 5 minutes after the test (p < 0.05). The posterior right arm and posterior left arm remained increased 10 minutes after the test (p < 0.05). After 15 minutes, 19 of the 26 ROIs analyzed were significantly decreased (p < 0.05). Among all tested models of linear regression, only 2 were significant, the difference of tsk 5 minutes compared with pre-test (F1, 21 = 16.49, p = 0.001) and the difference of tsk 10 minutes compared with pre-test, to predict LAC concentration at the end of the test (F1, 21 = 9.30, p = 0.006). We concluded that 5 minutes after the test, the judokas present a higher tau and a higher tsk in 7 ROIs, and the tsk decreases 15 minutes after the test in 19 of the considered ROIs. The variation of mean tsk 5 and 10 minutes after the test compared with pre-test values is associated with blood LAC at the end of the test.