Storm Waves May Be the Source of Some "Tsunami" Coastal Boulder Deposits.

Coastal boulder deposits (CBD) provide what are sometimes the only remaining signatures of wave inundation on rocky coastlines; in recent decades, CBD combined with initiation of motion (IoM) analyses have repeatedly been used as primary evidence to infer the existence of ancient tsunamis. However, IoM storm wave heights inferred by these studies have been shown to be highly inaccurate, bringing some inferences into question. This work develops a dimensionless framework to relate CBD properties with storm-wave hindcasts and measurements, producing data-driven relations between wave climate and boulder properties. We present an elevation-density-size-inland distance-wave height analysis for individual storm-transported boulders which delineates the dynamic space where storm-wave CBD occur. Testing these new relations against presumed tsunami CBD demonstrates that some fall well within the capabilities of storm events, suggesting that some previous studies might be fruitfully reexamined within the context of this new framework.

Large nearshore storm waves off the Irish coast.

We present a statistical analysis of nearshore waves observed during two major North-East Atlantic storms in 2015 and 2017. Surface elevations were measured with a 5-beam acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) at relatively shallow waters off the west coast of Ireland. To compensate for the significant variability of both sea states in time, we consider a novel approach for analyzing the non-stationary surface-elevation series and compare the distributions of crest and wave heights observed with theoretical predictions based on the Forristall, Tayfun and Boccotti models. In particular, the latter two models have been largely applied to and validated for deep-water waves. We show here that they also describe well the characteristics of waves observed in relatively shallow waters. The largest nearshore waves observed during the two storms do not exceed the rogue thresholds as the Draupner, Andrea, Killard or El Faro rogue waves do in intermediate or deep-water depths. Nevertheless, our analysis reveals that modulational instabilities are ineffective, third-order resonances negligible and the largest waves observed here have characteristics quite similar to those displayed by rogue waves for which second order bound nonlinearities are the principal factor that enhances the linear dispersive focusing of extreme waves.

Analytical and computational modelling for wave energy systems: the example of oscillating wave surge converters.

The development of new wave energy converters has shed light on a number of unanswered questions in fluid mechanics, but has also identified a number of new issues of importance for their future deployment. The main concerns relevant to the practical use of wave energy converters are sustainability, survivability, and maintainability. Of course, it is also necessary to maximize the capture per unit area of the structure as well as to minimize the cost. In this review, we consider some of the questions related to the topics of sustainability, survivability, and maintenance access, with respect to sea conditions, for generic wave energy converters with an emphasis on the oscillating wave surge converter. New analytical models that have been developed are a topic of particular discussion. It is also shown how existing numerical models have been pushed to their limits to provide answers to open questions relating to the operation and characteristics of wave energy converters.

Real-time measurements of spontaneous breathers and rogue wave events in optical fibre modulation instability.

Modulation instability is a fundamental process of nonlinear science, leading to the unstable breakup of a constant amplitude solution of a physical system. There has been particular interest in studying modulation instability in the cubic nonlinear Schrödinger equation, a generic model for a host of nonlinear systems including superfluids, fibre optics, plasmas and Bose-Einstein condensates. Modulation instability is also a significant area of study in the context of understanding the emergence of high amplitude events that satisfy rogue wave statistical criteria. Here, exploiting advances in ultrafast optical metrology, we perform real-time measurements in an optical fibre system of the unstable breakup of a continuous wave field, simultaneously characterizing emergent modulation instability breather pulses and their associated statistics. Our results allow quantitative comparison between experiment, modelling and theory, and are expected to open new perspectives on studies of instability dynamics in physics.

Real world ocean rogue waves explained without the modulational instability.

Since the 1990s, the modulational instability has commonly been used to explain the occurrence of rogue waves that appear from nowhere in the open ocean. However, the importance of this instability in the context of ocean waves is not well established. This mechanism has been successfully studied in laboratory experiments and in mathematical studies, but there is no consensus on what actually takes place in the ocean. In this work, we question the oceanic relevance of this paradigm. In particular, we analyze several sets of field data in various European locations with various tools, and find that the main generation mechanism for rogue waves is the constructive interference of elementary waves enhanced by second-order bound nonlinearities and not the modulational instability. This implies that rogue waves are likely to be rare occurrences of weakly nonlinear random seas.

Caustics and Rogue Waves in an Optical Sea.

There are many examples in physics of systems showing rogue wave behaviour, the generation of high amplitude events at low probability. Although initially studied in oceanography, rogue waves have now been seen in many other domains, with particular recent interest in optics. Although most studies in optics have focussed on how nonlinearity can drive rogue wave emergence, purely linear effects have also been shown to induce extreme wave amplitudes. In this paper, we report a detailed experimental study of linear rogue waves in an optical system, using a spatial light modulator to impose random phase structure on a coherent optical field. After free space propagation, different random intensity patterns are generated, including partially-developed speckle, a broadband caustic network, and an intermediate pattern with characteristics of both speckle and caustic structures. Intensity peaks satisfying statistical criteria for rogue waves are seen especially in the case of the caustic network, and are associated with broader spatial spectra. In addition, the electric field statistics of the intermediate pattern shows properties of an "optical sea" with near-Gaussian statistics in elevation amplitude, and trough-to-crest statistics that are near-Rayleigh distributed but with an extended tail where a number of rogue wave events are observed.

Emergent rogue wave structures and statistics in spontaneous modulation instability.

The nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) is a seminal equation of nonlinear physics describing wave packet evolution in weakly-nonlinear dispersive media. The NLSE is especially important in understanding how high amplitude "rogue waves" emerge from noise through the process of modulation instability (MI) whereby a perturbation on an initial plane wave can evolve into strongly-localised "breather" or "soliton on finite background (SFB)" structures. Although there has been much study of such structures excited under controlled conditions, there remains the open question of how closely the analytic solutions of the NLSE actually model localised structures emerging in noise-seeded MI. We address this question here using numerical simulations to compare the properties of a large ensemble of emergent peaks in noise-seeded MI with the known analytic solutions of the NLSE. Our results show that both elementary breather and higher-order SFB structures are observed in chaotic MI, with the characteristics of the noise-induced peaks clustering closely around analytic NLSE predictions. A significant conclusion of our work is to suggest that the widely-held view that the Peregrine soliton forms a rogue wave prototype must be revisited. Rather, we confirm earlier suggestions that NLSE rogue waves are most appropriately identified as collisions between elementary SFB solutions.

Incoherent resonant seeding of modulation instability in optical fiber.

We report control of the spectral and noise properties of spontaneous modulation instability (MI) in optical fiber using an incoherent seed with power at the 10(-6) level relative to the pump. We sweep the seed wavelength across the MI gain band, and observe significant enhancement of MI bandwidth and improvement in the signal-to-noise ratio as the seed coincides with the MI gain peak. We also vary the seed bandwidth and find a reduced effect on the MI spectrum as the seed coherence decreases. Stochastic nonlinear Schrödinger equation simulations of spectral and noise properties are in excellent agreement with experiment.

Shock velocity increase due to a heterogeneity produced by a two-gas layer.

Shock tube experiments are performed in order to study shock propagation along a two-gas layer in a confined geometry and to compare it to the case of a homogeneous density equivalent mixture. The analysis of the homogeneous case gives values for the adiabatic coefficient and density of the mixture of both gases, while the comparison between heterogeneous and homogeneous media with the same averaged density shows modifications of the shock front shape and velocity. In the two-gas layer, the shock propagates faster than in the homogeneous medium. The shock front is curved with a triple point which appears close to the shock-tube wall, in the slow medium, while it stays planar during its whole propagation in the homogeneous mixture. A correlation is found between the angle of curvature and the shock velocity increase. It is confirmed by two-dimensional Eulerian numerical calculations. Experiments and calculations exhibit very good agreement on all the measurements when molecular diffusion is taken into account in the numerical calculations. A sustained irregular refraction pattern of the shock front at the diffuse interface of both gases is obtained experimentally and confirmed by the calculations.

Local run-up amplification by resonant wave interactions.

Until now, the analysis of long wave run-up on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water equations are used to investigate the boundary value problem for plane and nontrivial beaches. Monochromatic waves, as well as virtual wave-gage recordings from real tsunami simulations, are used as forcing conditions to the boundary value problem. Resonant phenomena between the incident wavelength and the beach slope are found to occur, which result in enhanced run-up of nonleading waves. The evolution of energy reveals the existence of a quasiperiodic state for the case of sinusoidal waves. Dispersion is found to slightly reduce the value of maximum run-up but not to change the overall picture. Run-up amplification occurs for both leading elevation and depression waves.

Steady two-layer flows over an obstacle.

Nonlinear waves in a forced channel flow of two contiguous homogeneous fluids of different densities are considered. Each fluid layer is of finite depth. The forcing is due to an obstruction lying on the bottom. The study is restricted to steady flows. First a weakly nonlinear analysis is performed. At leading order the problem reduces to a forced Korteweg-de Vries equation, except near a critical value of the ratio of layer depths which leads to the vanishing of the nonlinear term. The weakly nonlinear results obtained by integrating the forced Korteweg-de Vries equation are validated by comparison with numerical results obtained by solving the full governing equations. The numerical method is based on boundary integral equation techniques. Although the problem of two-layer flows over an obstacle is a classical problem, several branches of solutions which have never been computed before are obtained.