Facial skin characteristics and concerns in Indonesia: A cross-sectional observational study.

BACKGROUND: Facial skin characteristics and appearance vary according to ethnicity. While much of this knowledge is derived from the Caucasian population, lately there have been efforts to gain such understanding in various regions in Asia.  In this paper, we have built an understanding of such features in Indonesia. In Indonesia, a section of females wears a traditional veil (hijab) to cover the scalp and part of face. The influence of the hijab on facial skin attributes was also investigated. METHODS: In a cross-sectional observational study design involving 419 female volunteers in Jakarta, Indonesia, facial skin attributes (colour, radiance, hydration, trans-epidermal water loss [TEWL], wrinkles, fine lines, pores, and sebum levels) and conditions (melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), solar lentigines/ senile lentigines, seborrheic keratoses and acne) were assessed by trained operators and dermatologists using standard validated instruments and scales. RESULTS: With age, facial skin colour showed darkening in cheek; forehead on the other hand showed slight lightening. The skin evenness and radiance decreased, substantially. Aging attributes measured in terms of lines, wrinkles, and under-eye dark circles showed deterioration with age; the decline was progressively faster than colour change. Facial image data analysis corroborated these findings. Skin hydration remained similar across the age groups even though the skin barrier function measured in terms of TEWL improved with age. Sebum levels in the skin were similar up to the age of 50 but declined in the next group of 50-60 year. Pore severity increased with age. Melasma, seborrheic keratosis and PIH showed a high prevalence (>∼50%) at the young age group (20-30 years), itself. Melasma prevalence attained 100% in the age group of 41-50 year and onwards, and its severity similarly showed a steady rise with age. PIH on the other hand showed a steady decline with age. Solar lentigines prevalence (∼30%) did not change much across age groups, and the severity scores were similar in age groups up to 50 year but increased substantially in 51-60-year age groups. Seborrheic keratosis was similar (∼47%) in age groups up 20-40 year but steadily increased in upper age groups. Its severity was similar in the age groups of 20-30 year and 31-40 year but showed a two-fold increase in subsequent age groups. Acne was 10% in the age group of 20-30 year and declined gradually to 0.7% in the 51-60-year age group. Hijab wearers showed slight protection in skin colour darkening and improvement of evenness and radiance but were similar on aging (fine lines and wrinkles on crow's feet, under eye and peri-oral areas) markers to non-wearers. In general, in majority of age-groups, hijab wearers showed a higher prevalence of melasma, solar/senile lentigines, seborrheic keratosis and PIH.

Superior even skin tone and anti-ageing benefit of a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide.

OBJECTIVES: To demonstrate the synergistic effect of 4-hexylresorcinol (4-HR) with niacinamide in boosting anti-melanogenic efficacy in vitro and establish the in vivo efficacy and safety of the combination in a human trial. METHODS: Primary human epidermal melanocytes and 3D pigmented skin equivalents were treated with 4-HR, niacinamide, and their combinations for their effect on pigmentation. This was followed by a randomized, double-blind, split-face clinical study in Chinese subjects, and effects on skin tone, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, and skin firmness were measured for a 12-week study period. RESULTS: In vitro tyrosinase enzyme activity studies showed that 4-HR is one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors. The combination of 4-HR and niacinamide showed a synergistic reduction in melanin production in cultured melanocytes and lightened the 3D skin equivalent model. In vitro as well as in the human trial, the combination of 4-HR and niacinamide showed significantly improved efficacy over niacinamide alone on hyperpigmentation spots as measured by L*, the visual appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in crow's feet and perioral area and skin firmness, with no product-related adverse events. CONCLUSIONS: A formulation containing a combination of 4-HR and niacinamide delivered superior skin tone and anti-ageing benefits significantly better than niacinamide alone with no adverse events. This study demonstrates that a product designed to affect multiple pathways of melanogenesis, inflammation, and ageing may provide an additional treatment option, beyond hydroquinone and retinoids, for hyperpigmentation and ageing.

OBJECTIFS: Démontrer l'effet synergique du 4-hexylrésorcinol (4-HR) associé au niacinamide pour stimuler in vitro l'efficacité antimélanogène, et établir l'efficacité et la sécurité d'emploi in vivo de cette association dans un essai chez l'homme. MÉTHODES: Des mélanocytes épidermiques humains primaires et des équivalents cutanés pigmentés en 3D ont été traités avec du 4-HR, du niacinamide et leurs combinaisons pour leur effet sur la pigmentation. Ceci a été suivi d'une étude clinique randomisée, en double aveugle en hémi-visage chez des sujets chinois, et les effets sur le teint, l'hyperpigmentation, les rides et ridules, l'hydratation et la fermeté de la peau ont été mesurés pendant une durée d'étude de 12 semaines. RÉSULTATS: Les études in vitro sur l'activité enzymatique de la tyrosinase ont montré que le 4-HR est l'un des inhibiteurs de la tyrosinase les plus puissants. L'association du 4-HR et du niacinamide a montré une réduction synergique de la production de mélanine dans les mélanocytes de culture et donné de la luminosité au modèle cutané 3D équivalent. Également in vitro avec l'étude chez l'homme, l'association du 4-HR et du niacinamide a fait ressortir une efficacité significativement plus élevée qu'avec le niacinamide seul sur les taches d'hyperpigmentation mesurées par L*, l'aspect visuel des rides et ridules des pattes d'oie et de la zone périorale, et la fermeté de la peau, sans événements indésirables liés au produit. CONCLUSIONS: Une formulation contenant une association de 4-HR et de niacinamide a permis d'obtenir un teint et un effet anti-âge nettement supérieurs à ceux du niacinamide seul, sans événements indésirables. Cette étude démontre qu'un produit conçu pour toucher plusieurs voies de mélanogenèse, d'inflammation et de vieillissement peut constituer une nouvelle option thérapeutique, au-delà de l'hydroquinone et des rétinoïdes, pour l'hyperpigmentation et le vieillissement.

Facial Skin Microbiota-Mediated Host Response to Pollution Stress Revealed by Microbiome Networks of Individual.

Urban living has been reported to cause various skin disorders. As an integral part of the skin barrier, the skin microbiome is among the key factors associated with urbanization-related skin alterations. The role of skin microbiome in mediating the effect of urban stressors (e.g., air pollutants) on skin physiology is not well understood. We generated 16S sequencing data and constructed a microbiome network of individual (MNI) to analyze the effect of pollution stressors on the microbiome network and its downstream mediation effect on skin physiology in a personalized manner. In particular, we found that the connectivity and fragility of MNIs significantly mediated the adverse effects of air pollution on skin health, and a smoking lifestyle deepened the negative effects of pollution stress on facial skin microbiota. This is the first study that describes the mediation effect of the microbiome network on the skin's physiological response toward environmental factors as revealed by our newly developed MNI approach and conditional process analysis. IMPORTANCE The association between the skin microbiome and skin health has been widely reported. However, the role of the skin microbiome in mediating skin physiology remains a challenging and yet priority subject in the field. Through developing a novel MNI method followed by mediation analysis, we characterized the network signature of the skin microbiome at an individual level and revealed the role of the skin microbiome in mediating the skin's responses toward environmental stressors. Our findings may shed new light on microbiome functions in skin health and lay the foundation for the design of a microbiome-based intervention strategy in the future.