A novel UV-fluorescence approach to assess the long wear efficacy of foundations.

BACKGROUND: The long wear properties of foundations are regarded as a must-have in terms of claims. Here, we propose an instrumental approach based on UV-fluorescence imaging as an alternative to clinical grading methods. METHODS: A method was developed, with UV-fluorescence images captured with the Visia CR as a first step, followed by images analysis using Image-Pro plus. Repeated-measures correlation was used to assess the degree of association between the UV-fluorescence method and a grading method when removing the foundation incrementally from the skin using wipes. Thresholds to ascertain whether a foundation pass or fail long-wearing using the newly developed method were established using a mixed linear model and cross-validated using two subsets of a panel of 20 women. RESULTS: The method could measure incremental removal of foundation using wipes, in a similar fashion to a grading method, as outlined with repeated measures correlation (r = -.86). Pass/fail thresholds established with the mixed linear model were tested versus the grading method when assessing a foundation under real conditions for a duration over 24 hours, with minimal discrepancies between the two methods. CONCLUSION: By capitalising on foundation physical/chemical properties, the proposed method allows to assess their long wear properties, irrespective of basal skin tone or foundation shade. It offers the advantage of appealing visuals for efficacy and to be less resource intensive than a clinical grading approach.

DermaTOP Blue and Antera 3D as methods to assess cosmetic solutions targeting eyelid sagging.

BACKGROUND: As the eye contour ages, the skin on the lid becomes lax often causing a voluminous protrusion where the superior palpebral sulcus begins to sag onto the upper eyelid. This sagging feature may present a novel anti-ageing target for cosmetic products when treating the eye area. A quantitative method to evaluate the volume of this sagging feature has not been previously established. We investigate the use of the DermaTOP fringe projector and Antera 3D Camera to this end. METHODS: Eyelid topographic measurements were collected on 20 female volunteers aged 50-75 years with the DermaTOP and Antera 3D. The DermaTOP and Antera 3D measurements were assessed for reproducibility and product effect detection capabilities. RESULTS: The DermaTOP and Antera 3D successfully measured sagging feature volume, demonstrated reproducibility of measurement and furthermore were suitably sensitive to allow for detection of sagging feature volume reduction after a single application of aqueous tightening serum. DermaTOP parameters were found to moderately correlated with the Antera 3D parameters. CONCLUSION: Both the DermaTOP and Antera 3D allow for quantitative measurement of eyelid sagging feature volume and in-turn permit evaluation of anti-ageing cosmetic preparations targeting the eyelid.

Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine.

BACKGROUND: The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product. AIMS: In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one. METHODS: Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream). RESULTS: Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles. CONCLUSION: These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.

Evidence of enhanced conjugation in ortho-arylene ethynylenes with transition metal coordination.

The effective conjugation of ortho and ortho-alt-para-arylene ethynylenes, with appropriately positioned pyridine and pyrazine heterocycles, increases upon binding to Ag(I) and Pd(II) cations. Significant bathochromic shifts in the electronic spectra, witnessed upon introduction of these metal bridges, are consistent with enhanced electron delocalization in the unsaturated backbone. Control studies suggest that this electronic behavior is attributable exclusively (in the case of Ag(I)) or partially (in the case of Pd(II)) to conformational restrictions of the conjugated backbones.