Assessing the Impact of Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation-Based Fingerboard Training versus Conventional Fingerboard Training on Finger Flexor Endurance in Intermediate to Advanced Sports Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Study.

Competitive climbers engage in highly structured training regimens to achieve peak performance levels, with efficient time management as a critical aspect. Neuromuscular electrical stimulation (NMES) training can close the gap between time-efficient conditioning training and achieving optimal prerequisites for peak climbing-specific performances. Therefore, we examined potential neuromuscular adaptations resulting from the NMFES intervention by analyzing the efficacy of twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard (hang board) training compared with thrice-weekly conventional fingerboard training over 7 training weeks in enhancing climbing-specific endurance among intermediate to advanced climbers. Participants were randomly divided into the NMES and control groups. Eighteen participants completed the study (14 male, 4 female; mean age: 25.7 ± 5.3 years; mean climbing experience: 6.4 ± 3.4 years). Endurance was assessed by measuring the maximal time athletes could support their body weight (hanging to exhaustion) on a 20 mm-deep ledge at three intervals: pre-, in-between- (after 4 weeks of training), and post-training (after 7 weeks of training). The findings revealed that despite the lower training volume in the NMES group, no significant differences were observed between the NMES and control groups in climbing-specific endurance. Both groups exhibited notable improvements in endurance, particularly after the in-between test. Consequently, a twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard training regimen demonstrated non-inferiority to a thrice-weekly conventional training routine. Incorporating NMES into fingerboard workouts could offer time-saving benefits.

Impact of Fatigue on Ergonomic Risk Scores and Foot Kinetics: A Field Study Employing Inertial and In-Shoe Plantar Pressure Measurement Devices.

(1) Background: Occupational fatigue is a primary factor leading to work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WRMSDs). Kinematic and kinetic experimental studies have been able to identify indicators of WRMSD, but research addressing real-world workplace scenarios is lacking. Hence, the authors of this study aimed to assess the influence of physical strain on the Borg CR-10 body map, ergonomic risk scores, and foot pressure in a real-world setting. (2) Methods: Twenty-four participants (seventeen men and seven women) were included in this field study. Inertial measurement units (IMUs) (n = 24) and in-shoe plantar pressure measurements (n = 18) captured the workload of production and office workers at the beginning of their work shift and three hours later, working without any break. In addition to the two 12 min motion capture processes, a Borg CR-10 body map and fatigue visual analog scale (VAS) were applied twice. Kinematic and kinetic data were processed using MATLAB and SPSS software, resulting in scores representing the relative distribution of the Rapid Upper Limb Assessment (RULA) and Computer-Assisted Recording and Long-Term Analysis of Musculoskeletal Load (CUELA), and in-shoe plantar pressure. (3) Results: Significant differences were observed between the two measurement times of physical exertion and fatigue, but not for ergonomic risk scores. Contrary to the hypothesis of the authors, there were no significant differences between the in-shoe plantar pressures. Significant differences were observed between the dominant and non-dominant sides for all kinetic variables. (4) Conclusions: The posture scores of RULA and CUELA and in-shoe plantar pressure side differences were a valuable basis for adapting one-sided requirements in the work process of the workers. Traditional observational methods must be adapted more sensitively to detect kinematic deviations at work. The results of this field study enhance our knowledge about the use and benefits of sensors for ergonomic risk assessments and interventions.

Enhancing biomechanical machine learning with limited data: generating realistic synthetic posture data using generative artificial intelligence.

Objective: Biomechanical Machine Learning (ML) models, particularly deep-learning models, demonstrate the best performance when trained using extensive datasets. However, biomechanical data are frequently limited due to diverse challenges. Effective methods for augmenting data in developing ML models, specifically in the human posture domain, are scarce. Therefore, this study explored the feasibility of leveraging generative artificial intelligence (AI) to produce realistic synthetic posture data by utilizing three-dimensional posture data. Methods: Data were collected from 338 subjects through surface topography. A Variational Autoencoder (VAE) architecture was employed to generate and evaluate synthetic posture data, examining its distinguishability from real data by domain experts, ML classifiers, and Statistical Parametric Mapping (SPM). The benefits of incorporating augmented posture data into the learning process were exemplified by a deep autoencoder (AE) for automated feature representation. Results: Our findings highlight the challenge of differentiating synthetic data from real data for both experts and ML classifiers, underscoring the quality of synthetic data. This observation was also confirmed by SPM. By integrating synthetic data into AE training, the reconstruction error can be reduced compared to using only real data samples. Moreover, this study demonstrates the potential for reduced latent dimensions, while maintaining a reconstruction accuracy comparable to AEs trained exclusively on real data samples. Conclusion: This study emphasizes the prospects of harnessing generative AI to enhance ML tasks in the biomechanics domain.

In Vivo Monitoring of Acute and Intermittent Fatigue in Sport Climbing Using Near-Infrared Spectroscopy Wearable Biosensors.

The objectification of acute fatigue (during isometric muscle contraction) and cumulative fatigue (due to multiple intermittent isometric muscle contractions) plays an important role in sport climbing. The data of 42 participants were used in the study. Climbing performance was operationalized using maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) by performing dead hangs. The test started with an initial measurement of handgrip strength (HGS) followed by three intermittent measurements of CSHT and HGS. During the test, finger flexor muscle oxygen saturation (SmO2) was measured using a near-infrared spectroscopy wearable biosensor. Significant reductions in CSHT and HGS could be found (p < 0.001), which indicates that the consecutive maximal isometric holding introduces cumulative fatigue. The reduction in CSHT did not correlate with a reduction in HGS over multiple consecutive maximal dead hangs (p > 0.35). Furthermore, there were no significant differences in initial SmO2 level, SmO2 level at termination, SmO2 recovery, and mean negative slope of the SmO2 saturation reduction between the different measurements (p > 0.24). Significant differences were found between pre-, termination-, and recovery- (10 s after termination) SmO2 levels (p < 0.001). Therefore, monitoring acute fatigue using athletes' termination SmO2 saturation seems promising. By contrast, the measurement of HGS and muscle oxygen metabolism seems inappropriate for monitoring cumulative fatigue during intermittent isometric climbing-specific muscle contractions.

Evaluation of Influencing Factors on the Maximum Climbing Specific Holding Time: An Inferential Statistics and Machine Learning Approach.

Handgrip strength (HGS) appears to be an indicator of climbing performance. The transferability of HGS measurements obtained using a hand dynamometer and factors that influence the maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) are largely unclear. Forty-eight healthy subjects (27 female, 21 male; age: 22.46 ± 3.17 years; height: 172.76 ± 8.91 cm; weight: 69.07 ± 12.41 kg; body fat: 20.05% ± 7.95%) underwent a maximal pull-up test prior to the experiment and completed a self-assessment using a Likert scale questionnaire. HGS was measured using a hand dynamometer, whereas CSHT was measured using a fingerboard. Multiple linear regressions showed that weight, maximal number of pull-ups, HGS normalized by subject weight, and length of the middle finger had a significant effect on the maximal CSHT (non-dominant hand: R2corr = 0.63; dominant hand: R2corr = 0.55). Deeper exploration using a machine learning model including all available data showed a predictive performance with R2 = 0.51 and identified another relevant parameter for the regression model. These results call into question the use of hand dynamometers and highlight the performance-related importance of body weight in climbing practice. The results provide initial indications that finger length may be used as a sub-factor in talent scouting.