Review of data on the dermal penetration of mineral oils and waxes used in cosmetic applications.

Mineral oils and waxes used in cosmetic products, also referred to as "personal care products" outside the European Union, are mixtures of predominantly saturated hydrocarbons consisting of straight-chain, branched and ring structures with carbon chain lengths greater than C16. They are used in skin and lip care cosmetic products due to their excellent skin tolerance as well as their high protecting and cleansing performance and broad viscosity options. Recently, concerns have been raised regarding potential adverse health effects of mineral oils and waxes from dermal application of cosmetics. In order to be able to assess the risk for the consumer the dermal penetration potential of these ingredients has to be evaluated. The scope and objective of this review are to identify and summarize publicly available literature on the dermal penetration of mineral oils and waxes as used in cosmetic products. For this purpose, a comprehensive literature search was conducted. A total of 13 in vivo (human, animal) and in vitro studies investigating the dermal penetration of mineral oils and waxes has been identified and analysed. The majority of the substances were dermally adsorbed to the stratum corneum and only a minor fraction reached deeper skin layers. Overall, there is no evidence from the various studies that mineral oils and waxes are percutaneously absorbed and become systemically available. Thus, given the absence of dermal uptake, mineral oils and waxes as used in cosmetic products do not present a risk to the health of the consumer.

The Cosmetics Europe strategy for animal-free genotoxicity testing: project status up-date.

The Cosmetics Europe (formerly COLIPA) Genotoxicity Task Force has driven and funded three projects to help address the high rate of misleading positives in in vitro genotoxicity tests: The completed "False Positives" project optimized current mammalian cell assays and showed that the predictive capacity of the in vitro micronucleus assay was improved dramatically by selecting more relevant cells and more sensitive toxicity measures. The on-going "3D skin model" project has been developed and is now validating the use of human reconstructed skin (RS) models in combination with the micronucleus (MN) and Comet assays. These models better reflect the in use conditions of dermally applied products, such as cosmetics. Both assays have demonstrated good inter- and intra-laboratory reproducibility and are entering validation stages. The completed "Metabolism" project investigated enzyme capacities of human skin and RS models. The RS models were shown to have comparable metabolic capacity to native human skin, confirming their usefulness for testing of compounds with dermal exposure. The program has already helped to improve the initial test battery predictivity and the RS projects have provided sound support for their use as a follow-up test in the assessment of the genotoxic hazard of cosmetic ingredients in the absence of in vivo data.

Negligible penetration of incidental amounts of alpha-hydroxy acid from rinse-off personal care products in human skin using an in vitro static diffusion cell model.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), primarily glycolic and lactic acids, are widely used in cosmetics to alleviate dyspigmentation, photodamage, and other aging skin conditions and as pH adjusters. Glycolic acid reportedly enhances skin damage after repeated ultraviolet light exposure, e.g., increased sunburn cell formation. This study assessed potential in vitro skin penetration of lactic acid and malic acid incorporated into rinse-off personal care products, compared with rinse-off and leave-on exposures to glycolic acid (10%, pH 3.5) in a reference lotion. Radiolabeled AHA-fortified shampoo, conditioner, and lotion were evenly applied as single doses to human epidermal membranes mounted in static diffusion cells (not occluded). Exposures were 1-3 min (rinse-off) or 24 h (leave-on). Epidermal penetration of malic acid and lactic acid from the rinse-off shampoo and conditioner, respectively, was negligible, with >99% removed by rinsing, a negligible portion remaining in the stratum corneum (≤0.15%), and even less penetrating into the viable epidermis (≤0.04%). Glycolic acid penetration from the leave-on reference lotion was 1.42 µg equiv./cm2/h, with total absorbable dose recovery (receptor fluid plus epidermis) of 2.51%, compared to 0.009%, 0.003%, and 0.04% for the rinse-off reference lotion, shampoo (malic acid), and conditioner (lactic acid) exposures, respectively. Dermal penetration of AHAs into human skin is pH-, concentration-, and time-dependent. Alpha-hydroxy acids in rinse-off shampoos and conditioners are almost entirely removed from the skin within minutes by rinsing (resulting in negligible epidermal penetration). This suggests that ultraviolet radiation-induced skin effects of AHA-containing rinse-off products are negligible.

Special aspects of cosmetic spray safety evaluations: principles on inhalation risk assessment.

The consumer exposure to the vast majority of cosmetic products is limited to dermal contact. Even spray applications tend to be topically exposed to skin or hair. Besides this skin contact, spray products require additional considerations in regard to potential inhalation for building a robust and reliable safety assessment. Over the years, cosmetic industry developed prediction models for the best estimate of inhalation exposure combining data from computer simulation programs available in the market, individual real measured data and last but not least the experience from the market. Such attempt is driven by the toxicological profile of individual used ingredients. The focus of this review is on the determination of inhalation exposure, and the derivation of safe exposure levels for cosmetic spray products. Many of the methods employed to ensure product safety of cosmetic sprays in accordance with the general requirements of the EC Cosmetics Directive are based on industry experience which are not necessarily consistent across companies. This paper presents an approach to compile common principles for risk assessment and thus contribute to standardisation of safety assessment methodologies utilized for spray product evaluation without interfering with the flexibility of the individual safety assessor. It is based on the experience within the author's companies and may be useful as a support document as well for SME (Small and Medium Enterprises) companies safety assessors. In this respect it can be seen as one fundamental step in a tiered approach of cosmetic spray safety evaluation.

In vitro approaches to develop weight of evidence (WoE) and mode of action (MoA) discussions with positive in vitro genotoxicity results.

A recent analysis by Kirkland et al. [Kirkland, D., Aardema, M., Henderson, L. and Müller, L. (2005) Evaluation of the ability of a battery of 3 in vitro genotoxicity tests to discriminate rodent carcinogens and non-carcinogens. I. Sensitivity, specificity and relative predictivity. Mutat. Res. 584, 1-256] demonstrated an extremely high false positive rate for in vitro genotoxicity tests when compared with carcinogenicity in rodents. In many industries, decisions have to be made on the safety of new substances, and health risk to humans, without rodent carcinogenicity data being available. In such cases, the usual way to determine whether a positive in vitro genotoxicity result is relevant (i.e. indicates a hazard) for humans is to develop weight of evidence (WoE) or mode of action (MoA) arguments. These are based partly on further in vitro investigations, but usually rely heavily on tests for genotoxicity in one or more in vivo assays. However, for certain product types in the European Union, the use of animals for genotoxicity testing (as well as for other endpoints) will be prohibited within the next few years. Many different examples have been described that indicate DNA damage and genotoxic responses in vitro can arise through non-relevant in vitro events that are a result of the test systems and conditions used. The majority of these non-relevant in vitro events can be grouped under a category of 'overload of normal physiology' that would not be expected to occur in exposed humans. However, obtaining evidence in support of such MoAs is not easy, particularly for those industries prohibited from carrying out in vivo testing. It will become necessary to focus on in vitro studies to provide evidence of non-DNA, threshold or in vitro-specific processes and to discuss the potential for such genotoxic effects to occur in exposed humans. Toward this end, we surveyed the published literature for in vitro approaches that may be followed to determine whether a genotoxic effect observed in vitro will occur in humans. Unfortunately, many of the approaches we found are based on only a few published examples and validated approaches with consensus recommendations often do not exist. This analysis highlights the urgent need for developing consensus approaches that do not rely on animal studies for dealing with in vitro genotoxins.

Influence of organophosphorus compounds on different cellular immune functions in vitro.

The effects of two organophosphorus compounds (OP) triphenyl phosphate (TPP) and triphenylphosphine oxide (TPPO) on different immune functions in vitro were investigated using an economical multiple endpoint approach. The test battery was designed as follows: immunocompetent cells (peritoneal cells and splenocytes) were isolated from female C57B1 mice and treated in vitro for 1 hr with the test article. Then the cells were washed and assessed for the following immune functions: Fc-receptor-dependent phagocytosis and lipopolysaccharide-induced release of a cytolytic protein (tumour necrosis factor, TNF) of thioglycollate-elicited peritoneal macrophages; natural killer (NK) cell activity, blastogenesis (T and B lymphocytes), and antibody synthesis (B lymphocytes) of spleen-cell suspensions. As an additional parameter the survival of the cells was determined routinely after treatment during all assays. No substantial effect on macrophage phagocytotic activity was observed after TPP or TPPO treatment. TPP led to a concentration-dependent suppression of macrophage TNF activity as well as NK activity of spleen cells. In addition, a slight reduction of B-lymphocyte antibody synthesis was obtained. TPPO treatment revealed a modulation of TNF activity of macrophages in a complex, non-concentration-related manner. A concentration-related suppression of spleen cell NK activity was observed after TPPO treatment. In summary, TPP and TPPO were found to be immunomodulating agents eliciting adverse effects predominantly towards cells of the innate immunity. The functions of T and B lymphocytes, referred to as adaptive immunity, were not substantially impaired. Our results indicate that the in vitro test battery described may be a suitable tool for the screening of OP-mediating immunotoxicity.

Assessment of the relation between the initial viability and the attachment of freshly isolated rat hepatocytes used for the in vivo/in vitro DNA repair assay (UDS).

Crucial steps of the in vivo/in vitro DNA repair assay (UDS) are the hepatocyte isolation procedure and the establishment of the hepatocyte cultures. Since the attachment of the isolated hepatocytes on the surface of the culture vessel is an essential prerequisite for the in vitro part of this assay to yield scorable autoradiograms, we assessed the relation between the initial viabilities of hepatocyte preparations and the resulting attachment efficiencies from 286 rats. The initial viability was determined by means of the trypan blue dye exclusion assay. The actual cell number was corrected for the viability and a constant number of 2.5 x 10(5) viable cells were seeded into each well of gelatinized six-well dishes. The amount of adherent cells was determined after a 1.5-h attachment period using a recently described modification (Fautz et al., 1991) of the neutral red dye absorption assay. The attachment is described by the optical density at 540 nm obtained after the elution of neutral red from the adherent cells (OD540 value). To facilitate a comparison of the data we divided the 286 animals into eight arbitrary viability groups. The mean values of the viability groups were 53.1, 62.2, 66.3, 68.4, 70.9, 73.6, 76.9, and 84.0% living cells. Although there was a great interindividual variation, the resulting mean OD540 values were nearly uniform, about 0.5, in all eight groups, regardless of the initial viability of the hepatocytes. UDS data obtained from 46 animals treated with the positive control chemical 2-acetylaminofluorene demonstrated that there was no correlation between the in vitro DNA repair capacity and the initial viability or the attachment efficiency of the hepatocytes. Our results suggest that (i) great interindividual differences exist between the attachment of particular cell preparations with no regard to the initial viability, (ii) the correction of the cell number for viability leads to relatively uniform OD540 mean values and (iii) for an in vivo/in vitro UDS assay even cell suspensions with relatively low viabilities can be used since they will yield adherent cultures which are capable of DNA repair synthesis. The latter item often allows a reduction in the number of animals required for this in vivo assay because it is not necessary to perform repeated experiments because of low viability preparations.

Immunotoxicity screening in vitro using an economical multiple endpoint approach.

An economical multiple endpoint in vitro test battery has been developed for screening chemically induced immune dysfunction. Bearing in mind the complexity of the immune system, different types of immunocompetent cells were used. Cofactor-fortified liver homogenate obtained from rats pretreated with Aroclor (S-9 mix) was employed as an in vitro metabolizing system. The following principal screening design was applied. Immunocompetent cells (peritoneal cells and splenocytes) obtained from female C57B(1) mice were treated in vitro for 1 hr. For metabolic activation, chemicals were pretreated with S-9 mix for 2 hr. After the incubation period the cells were washed and different immune function assays (antibody-dependent phagocytosis and lipopolysaccharide-induced release of tumour necrosis factor of thioglycollate-elicited peritoneal macrophages; natural killer cell activity, T- and B-cell blastogenesis, and B-cell antibody synthesis of spleen cell suspensions) were performed. For economy the different spleen cell functions were tested in parallel with aliquots of cells derived from the same chemically treated culture. As an additional parameter the survival of the cells was determined routinely after treatment during all assays. Different chemicals (e.g. tributyltinoxide, 7,12-dimethylbenzanthracene, lead acetate, cyclophosphamide, dexamethasone) were assessed using this system. The results indicate that the in vitro test battery described is a suitable tool for immunotoxicity screening.

Inter-laboratory ring trial of in vitro DNA repair tests using rat hepatocytes: further testing and conclusive remarks.

The results of the extension of a collaborative study for the detection of chemical-induced DNA damage in rat hepatocytes in vitro are presented in this report. Three coded compounds, i.e. 1,4-butanediol dimethanesulphonate, hydrazine sulphate and sodium dichromate, were tested for DNA repair synthesis by seven different laboratories, either using autoradiographic procedures or the liquid scintillation counting technique. Inter-laboratory standardization was intentionally not requested in order to investigate the validity of each study design under routine conditions. 1,4-Butanediol dimethanesulphonate was clearly positive in most laboratories; sodium dichromate was generally positive, while the results on hydrazine sulphate were contradictory.

Application of the neutral red assay (NR assay) to monolayer cultures of primary hepatocytes: rapid colorimetric viability determination for the unscheduled DNA synthesis test (UDS).

The neutral red (NR) absorption method was adapted for the determination of cell viability in the UDS assay with primary hepatocyte cultures of the rat. The NR method is rapid, easy to perform, and suitable for handling of large numbers of cultures simultaneously. It can be used for concentration range-finding pre-experiments. In addition, it can easily be integrated into a UDS test protocol for documentation of toxic effects if supplementary cultures for each concentration are established. The time schedule required for the NR assay makes it possible for one person to process the hepatocytes for autoradiography and at the same time determine the toxicity.

Report of a comparative study of DNA damage and repair assays in primary rat hepatocytes with five coded chemicals.

We report the results of a collaborative study for the detection of chemical-induced DNA damage in primary cultures of rat hepatocytes. The methods include the detection of unscheduled DNA synthesis (UDS) with either autoradiography (5 laboratories) or liquid scintillation counting (2 laboratories) and the assessment of DNA single-strand breaks with the alkaline elution assay (1 laboratory). Interlaboratory standardization was omitted in order to prove the agreement of the assays under routine conditions. Five coded chemicals were tested. For 4 chemicals (2-acetylaminofluorene, thiourea, glycerine and potassium chloride) the UDS data were consistent in all laboratories, thus indicating a high consensus of the test systems applied in the different laboratories. Those 3 chemicals that were not expected to elicit genotoxic activity (thiourea, glycerine, and potassium chloride) yielded negative results in all laboratories. 2-Acetylaminofluorene, a known DNA-damaging agent in hepatocytes, gave strongly positive responses in all laboratories. In contrast, N-nitrosodiphenylamine led to equivocal responses.