New Insights into the Dermocosmetic Potential of the Red Seaweed Gelidium corneum.

This work addresses the potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum as a source of bioactive ingredients for skin health and wellness in response to the growing awareness regarding the significance of sustainable strategies in developing new nature-based dermocosmetic products. Hydroalcoholic extracts from the dried biomass were subjected to sequential liquid-liquid partitions, affording five different fractions (F1-F5). Their cosmetic potential was assessed through a set of in vitro assays concerning their antioxidant, photoprotective, and healing properties. Additionally, their cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells and their capacity to induce inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells were also evaluated. As a proof-of-concept, O/W emulsions were prepared, and emulsion stability was assessed by optical microscopy, droplet size analysis, centrifugation tests, and rheology analysis. Furthermore, in vivo tests were conducted with the final formulation to assess its antioxidant capacity. At subtoxic concentrations, the most lipophilic fraction has provided photoprotection against UV light-induced photooxidation in HaCaT cells. This was conducted together with the aqueous fraction, which also displayed healing capacities. Regarding the physical and stability assays, the best performance was achieved with the formulation containing 1% aqueous extract, which exhibited water retention and antioxidant properties in the in vivo assay. In summary, Gelidium corneum displayed itself as a potential source of bioactive ingredients with multitarget properties for dermatological use.

Replacing Synthetic Ingredients by Sustainable Natural Alternatives: A Case Study Using Topical O/W Emulsions.

With the increasing debate on sustainability, there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable products for topical application. Several studies emphasize the potential applications of natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived ingredients, but comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives are lacking. This type of study is considered an excellent baseline and time-saving strategy for future studies. In addition, one of the main challenges of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in topical vehicles is to maintain high-quality products. Thus, the main goal of this research study was to create a well-defined strategy supported by specific experimental data for the development of sustainable topical vehicles with high-quality standards. The study was designed to evaluate the effects of replacing conventional ingredients (e.g., hydrocarbons, silicones, and preservatives) by sustainable ones on the physical, chemical, and microbiological features of topical emulsions. Additionally, in vivo assessment studies were performed to evaluate the safety, biological efficacy, and sensorial aspects of the developed formulations. The results obtained showed that the replacement of ingredients by sustainable alternatives has an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural properties of the emulsions, mainly on their rheological behavior. However, using appropriate strategies for ingredient selection and rheological adjustment, it is possible to overcome some barriers created by the use of natural raw materials, thus developing appealing and high-quality sustainable topical vehicles.

Fragaria vesca L. Extract: A Promising Cosmetic Ingredient with Antioxidant Properties.

Fragaria vesca L. (F. vesca), popularly known as wild strawberry, is a plant from the Rosaceae family, found in temperate and subtropical areas of the northern hemisphere. F. vesca leaves have been shown to have antiseptic, emollient, and dermatological protection properties, due to the presence of bioactive compounds, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, ellagitannins, and proanthocyanidins. In this study, a F. vesca extract was obtained by an optimized extraction process, and was characterized by HPLC, ROS scavenging activity, cytotoxicity assays in HaCaT cells, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity determination. The most active extract was then incorporated in a hydrogel with hydroxyethylcellulose at 2% (w/w), which was characterized at the physicochemical, stability, cytotoxicity, and ROS scavenging activity levels to evaluate its quality, safety, and efficacy. In vivo studies, human repeat insult patch testing, and an assay to determine their antioxidant efficacy, were also performed. The results showed that the Fragaria vesca extracts had antioxidant activity and that the F. vesca extract-based hydrogel exhibited cutaneous compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy, being stable, and suitable for topical application.