Dendritic growth of protein gel in the course of sweat pore plugging by aluminium salts under physiological conditions.

Are aluminium ions unavoidable in antiperspirants? To answer this question, we present confocal microscopy images of dendritic plugs appearing in sweat flowing across a microfluidic channel in the presence of aluminium salts. By comparing with numerical simulations, we identify the mechanisms forming this structured protein gel inside the pore.

Real time observation of the interaction between aluminium salts and sweat under microfluidic conditions.

Aluminium salts such as aluminium chlorohydrate (ACH) are the active ingredients of antiperspirant products. Their mechanism of action involves a temporary and superficial plugging of eccrine sweat pores at the skin surface. We developed a microfluidic system that allows the real time observation of the interactions between sweat and ACH in conditions mimicking physiological sweat flow and pore dimensions. Using artificial sweat containing bovine serum albumin as a model protein, we performed experiments under flowing conditions to demonstrate that pore clogging results from the aggregation of proteins by aluminium polycations at specific location in the sweat pore. Combining microfluidic experiments, confocal microscopy and numerical models helps to better understand the physical chemistry and mechanisms involved in pore plugging. The results show that plugging starts from the walls of sweat pores before expanding into the centre of the channel. The simulations aid in explaining the influence of ACH concentration as well as the impact of flow conditions on the localization of the plug. Altogether, these results outline the potential of both microfluidic confocal observations and numerical simulations at the single sweat pore level to understand why aluminium polycations are so efficient for sweat channel plugging.

In vivo quantitative molecular absorption of glycerol in human skin using coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) and two-photon auto-fluorescence.

The penetration of small molecules through the human skin is a major issue for both safety and efficacy issues in cosmetics and pharmaceutic domains. To date, the quantification of active molecular compounds in human skin following a topical application uses ex vivo skin samples mounted on Franz cell diffusion set-up together with appropriate analytical methods. Coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) has also been used to perform active molecule quantification on ex vivo skin samples, but no quantification has been described in human skin in vivo. Here we introduce and validate a framework for imaging and quantifying the active molecule penetration into human skin in vivo. Our approach combines nonlinear imaging microscopy modalities, such as two-photon excited auto-fluorescence (TPEF) and coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), together with the use of deuterated active molecules. The imaging framework was exemplified on topically applied glycerol diluted in various vehicles such as water and xanthan gel. In vivo glycerol quantitative percutaneous penetration over time was demonstrated, showing that, contrary to water, the xanthan gel vehicle acts as a film reservoir that releases glycerol continuously over time. More generally, the proposed imaging framework provides an enabling platform for establishing functional activity of topically applied products in vivo.

Impact of Amino Acids on the Isomerization of the Aluminum Tridecamer Al13.

The stability of the Keggin polycation ε-Al13 is monitored by 27Al NMR and ferron colorimetric assay upon heating aluminum aqueous solutions containing different amino acids with overall positive, negative, or no charge at pH 4.2. A focus on the effect of the amino acids on the isomerization process from ε- to δ-Al13 is made, compared and discussed as a function of the type of organic additive. Amino acids such as glycine and ß-alanine, with only one functional group interacting relatively strongly with aluminum polycations, accelerate isomerization in a concentration-dependent manner. The effect of this class of amino acids is also found increasing with the pKa of their carboxylic acid moiety, from a low impact from proline up to more than a 15-fold increased rate from the stronger binders such as glycine or ß-alanine. Amino acids with relatively low C-terminal pKa, but bearing additional potential binding moieties such as free alcohol (hydroxyl group) moiety of serine or the amide of glutamine, speed the isomerization comparatively and even more than glycine or ß-alanine, glutamine leading to the fastest rates observed so far. With aspartic and glutamic acids, changes in aluminum speciation are faster and significant even at room temperature but rather related to the reorganization toward slow reacting complexed oligomers than to the Al13 isomerization process. The linear relation between the apparent rate constant of isomerization and the additive concentration points to a first-order process with respect to the additives. Most likely, the dominant process is an accelerated ε-Al13 dissociation, increasing the probability of δ isomer formation.

Multicolor two-photon imaging of endogenous fluorophores in living tissues by wavelength mixing.

Two-photon imaging of endogenous fluorescence can provide physiological and metabolic information from intact tissues. However, simultaneous imaging of multiple intrinsic fluorophores, such as nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide(phosphate) (NAD(P)H), flavin adenine dinucleotide (FAD) and retinoids in living systems is generally hampered by sequential multi-wavelength excitation resulting in motion artifacts. Here, we report on efficient and simultaneous multicolor two-photon excitation of endogenous fluorophores with absorption spectra spanning the 750-1040 nm range, using wavelength mixing. By using two synchronized pulse trains at 760 and 1041 nm, an additional equivalent two-photon excitation wavelength at 879 nm is generated, and achieves simultaneous excitation of blue, green and red intrinsic fluorophores. This method permits an efficient simultaneous imaging of the metabolic coenzymes NADH and FAD to be implemented with perfect image co-registration, overcoming the difficulties associated with differences in absorption spectra and disparity in concentration. We demonstrate ratiometric redox imaging free of motion artifacts and simultaneous two-photon fluorescence lifetime imaging (FLIM) of NADH and FAD in living tissues. The lifetime gradients of NADH and FAD associated with different cellular metabolic and differentiation states in reconstructed human skin and in the germline of live C. Elegans are thus simultaneously measured. Finally, we present multicolor imaging of endogenous fluorophores and second harmonic generation (SHG) signals during the early stages of Zebrafish embryo development, evidencing fluorescence spectral changes associated with development.

The mechanism of eccrine sweat pore plugging by aluminium salts using microfluidics combined with small angle X-ray scattering.

Aluminium salts are widely used to control sweating for personal hygiene purposes. Their mechanism of action as antiperspirants was previously thought to be a superficial plugging of eccrine sweat pores by the aluminium hydroxide gel. Here we present a microfluidic T junction device that mimics sweat ducts, and is designed for the real time study of interactions between sweat and ACH (Aluminium Chloro Hydrate) under conditions that lead to plug formation. We used this device to image and measure the diffusion of aluminium polycationic species in sweat counter flow. We report the results of small angle X-ray scattering experiments performed to determine the structure and composition of the plug, using BSA (Bovine Serum Albumin) as a model of sweat proteins. Our results show that pore occlusion occurs as a result of the aggregation of sweat proteins by aluminium polycations. Mapping of the device shows that this aggregation is initiated in the T junction at the location where the flow of aluminium polycations joins the flow of BSA. The mechanism involves two stages: (1) a nucleation stage in which aggregates of protein and polycations bind to the wall of the sweat duct and form a tenuous membrane, which extends across the junction; (2) a growth stage in which this membrane collects proteins that are carried by hydrodynamic flow in the sweat channel and polycations that diffuse into this channel. These results could open up perspectives to find new antiperspirant agents with an improved efficacy.

Quantitative 3D molecular cutaneous absorption in human skin using label free nonlinear microscopy.

Understanding the penetration mechanisms of drugs into human skin is a key issue in pharmaceutical and cosmetics research. To date, the techniques available for percutaneous penetration of compounds fail to provide a quantitative 3D map of molecular concentration distribution in complex tissues as the detected microscopy images are an intricate combination of concentration distribution and laser beam attenuation upon deep penetration. Here we introduce and validate a novel framework for imaging and reconstructing molecular concentration within the depth of artificial and human skin samples. Our approach combines the use of deuterated molecular compounds together with coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering spectroscopy and microscopy that permits targeted molecules to be unambiguously discriminated within skin layers. We demonstrate both intercellular and transcellular pathways for different active compounds, together with in-depth concentration profiles reflecting the detailed skin barrier architecture. This method provides an enabling platform for establishing functional activity of topically applied products.

Multiphoton microscopy of engineered dermal substitutes: assessment of 3-D collagen matrix remodeling induced by fibroblast contraction.

Dermal fibroblasts are responsible for the generation of mechanical forces within their surrounding extracellular matrix and can be potentially targeted by anti-aging ingredients. Investigation of the modulation of fibroblast contraction by these ingredients requires the implementation of three-dimensional in situ imaging methodologies. We use multiphoton microscopy to visualize unstained engineered dermal tissue by combining second-harmonic generation that reveals specifically fibrillar collagen and two-photon excited fluorescence from endogenous cellular chromophores. We study the fibroblast-induced reorganization of the collagen matrix and quantitatively evaluate the effect of Y-27632, a RhoA-kinase inhibitor, on dermal substitute contraction. We observe that collagen fibrils rearrange around fibroblasts with increasing density in control samples, whereas collagen fibrils show no remodeling in the samples containing the RhoA-kinase inhibitor. Moreover, we show that the inhibitory effects are reversible. Our study demonstrates the relevance of multiphoton microscopy to visualize three-dimensional remodeling of the extracellular matrix induced by fibroblast contraction or other processes.

Skin cell protection against UVA by Sideroxyl, a new antioxidant complementary to sunscreens.

Oxidative stress resulting from photosensitized ROS production in skin is widely accepted as the main contributor to the deleterious effects of UVA exposure. Among the mechanisms known to be involved in UVA-induced oxidative damage, iron plays a central role. UVA radiation of skin cells induces an immediate release of iron, which can then act as a catalyst for uncontrolled oxidation reactions of cell components. Such site-specific damage can scarcely be counteracted by classical antioxidants. In contrast, iron chelators potentially offer an effective way to protect skin against UVA insults. However, iron chelation is very difficult to achieve without disturbing iron homeostasis or inducing iron depletion. A novel compound was developed to avoid these potentially harmful side effects. Sideroxyl was designed to acquire its strong chelating capability only during oxidative stress according to an original process of intramolecular hydroxylation. Herein, we describe in vitro results demonstrating the protective efficiency of Sideroxyl against deleterious effects of UVA at the molecular, cellular, and tissular levels. First, the Sideroxyl diacid form protects a model protein against UVA-induced photosensitized carbonylation. Second, intracellular ROS are dose-dependently decreased in the presence of Sideroxyl in both human cultured fibroblasts and human keratinocytes. Third, Sideroxyl protects normal human fibroblasts against UVA-induced DNA damage as measured by the comet assay and MMP-1 production. Finally, Sideroxyl provides protection against UVA-induced alterations in human reconstructed skin. These results suggest that Sideroxyl may prevent UVA-induced damage in human skin as a complement to sunscreens, especially in the long-wavelength UVA range.

Iron chelation can modulate UVA-induced lipid peroxidation and ferritin expression in human reconstructed epidermis.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: As ferritin has been identified as an important factor in antioxidant defense in cultured human skin cells, we evaluated UVA-induced lipid hydroperoxides (LPO) production and ferritin expression in reconstructed human epidermis in vitro. RESULTS: Ferritin is regularly present in the basal layer of unirradiated epidermis both in the human skin in vivo and in the reconstructed human epidermis in vitro. Following acute UVA exposure, ferritin expression increased in basal epidermal cells in both models. Quantitative analysis showed that, in reconstructed human epidermis, LPO and ferritin levels increased linearly with the UVA dose. An iron chelator, OR10141, inhibited these inductions. CONCLUSION: These findings demonstrate that reconstructed human epidermis is a useful in vitro model to study UVA-induced oxidative stress and protection afforded by iron chelators, antioxidants or UVA absorbers.

H2 O2 -Dependent Fe-Catalyzed Oxidations: Control of the Active Species.

Manipulation of the coordination sphere of an FeII ion can be used to tune the balance between different catalytic pathways for oxidation (OH. versus iron-based oxidant; see scheme). This reinvestigation of Fenton chemistry uses the iron complex shown as a mechanistic probe.