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1.
J Cosmet Dermatol ; 23(1): 308-315, 2024 Jan.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37539499

ABSTRACT

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect. METHODS: First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas. RESULTS: Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.


Subject(s)
Squalene , Sunscreening Agents , Humans , Sunscreening Agents/pharmacology , Catalase/pharmacology , Skin , Ultraviolet Rays/adverse effects , Antioxidants/pharmacology , Glutathione
2.
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol ; 16: 2727-2735, 2023.
Article in English | MEDLINE | ID: mdl-37794944

ABSTRACT

Purpose: Skincare products are used daily to maintain a healthy skin, although their skin microbiome impact is still poorly known. Preserving the natural resources and mechanisms of the skin ecosystem is essential, and a novel approach based on these premises, called ecobiology, has recently emerged in skincare. We evaluated the impact on the skin microbiome of three types of leave-on face skincare products: a hydrophilic solution, a micellar solution, and an oil-in-water emulsion. Patients and Methods: Samples for microbial profiling were obtained from 20 Caucasian females twenty-four hours and four days following daily application of the skincare products and compared to an untreated area. The bacterial diversity and the abundance of the skin microbiome were analyzed by 16S rRNA gene sequencing using an Illumina MiSeq platform. Results: Our results confirmed the skin microbiome diversity and the prevalence of Cutibacterium spp. and Staphylococcus spp. at sebaceous sites. The bacterial diversity and abundance were not affected by the products, and no dissimilarities versus the control nor between each product were noted at both times. Conclusion: These preliminary results demonstrate for the first time that three types of leave-on face skincare products have no impact on the human skin microbiome and can be considered to be "microbiome friendly".

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