High molecular weight hyaluronic acid vectorised with clay provides long-term hydration and reduces skin brightness.

BACKGROUND: Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a widely used active cosmetic ingredient. Its multiple skin care benefits are modulated by its molecular weight. Low molecular weight (LMW) HA can penetrate the skin, but high molecular weight (HMW) HA remains at the surface. Here, we assessed how vectorization of HMW HA with bentonite clay-achieved with an innovative technology-enhances its cosmetic and hydrating properties. MATERIALS AND METHODS: The two HA forms were applied to skin explants; their penetration and smoothing effects were monitored by Raman spectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy. The two forms were biochemically characterised by chromatography, enzyme sensitivity assays, and analysis of Zeta potential. Cosmetics benefits such as, the smoothing effect of vectorised-HA was assessed in ex vivo experiments on skin explants. A placebo-controlled clinical study was finally conducted applying treatments for 28 days to analyse the final benefits in crow's feet area. RESULTS: Raman spectroscopy analysis revealed native HMW HA to accumulate at the surface of skin explants, whereas vectorised HMW HA was detected in deeper skin layers. This innovative vectorisation process changed the zeta potential of vectorised HMW HA, being then more anionic and negative without impacting the biochemical structure of native HA. In terms of cosmetic benefits, following application of vectorised HMW HA ex vivo, the skin's surface was visibly smoother. This smoothing was clinically confirmed, with a significant reduction in fine lines. CONCLUSION: The development of innovative process vectorising HMW HA allowed HMW HA penetration in the skin. This enhanced penetration extends the clinical benefits of this iconic cosmetic ingredient.

Optimize, Modulate, and Scale-up Resveratrol and Resveratrol Dimers Bioproduction in Vitis labrusca L. Cell Suspension from Flasks to 20 L Bioreactor.

Resveratrol and its oligomers are biologically active compounds. This work brings new insights for the bioproduction of trans-resveratrol with three dimers, pallidol, trans-ε-viniferin, and trans-δ-viniferin, in cell suspension of Vitis labrusca. Conditions of elicitation by methyl jasmonate were optimized for the production of stilbenes using statistical design of experiment. Bio-production of stilbenes was scaled-up to 5 L and in these conditions, trans-resveratrol concentrations reached 237 mg/L, and for pallidol 114 mg/L. The comparison of different elicitation modes (different elicitors, combination with cyclodextrins or adsorbent resin) allowed to reach particularly high concentrations of target molecules: Resveratrol 6.14 g/L, pallidol 0.90 g/L, δ-viniferin 0.54 g/L, and ε-viniferin 0.50 g/L. Scale-up to 20 L-stirring-bioreactor gave similar growth rates to those observed in shake flask culture, with a high production of resveratrol (4.23 g/L) and δ-viniferin (0.76 g/L). This work provides new strategies for the production of stilbenes in plant cell suspension for biological and commercial evaluation.

Stereoselective synthesis of (2S,3S,4R,5S)-3,4-dihydroxy-2,5-dihydroxymethyl pyrrolidine from L-sorbose.

One of the most frequently synthesized iminosugar derivatives is DMDP. Starting from L-sorbose, a practical method for the synthesis of derivatives of this five-membered iminocyclitol has been developed, involving straightforward steps and a convenient selective reduction of a ketoxime intermediate.

Gradient elution method in centrifugal partition chromatography for the separation of a complex sophorolipid mixture obtained from Candida bombicola yeasts.

Sophorolipids represent an important class of natural surfactants with a variety of environmental, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical applications. Despite their promising physicochemical and biological properties, the use of sophorolipids is hampered by the lack of information regarding their individual structure-activity relationships. The major difficulty in isolating pure sophorolipids arises from the high complexity of crude fermentation media composition and from their strong structural similarities. In this work, a centrifugal partition chromatography method was developed in an original gradient elution mode for the separation of sophorolipids produced by the yeast Candida bombicola. Experiments were realized by using three sets of solvent systems composed of n-heptane, ethyl acetate, n-butanol, methanol, and water in different proportions. The separation was performed at 5 mL/min in the ascending mode by increasing progressively the polarity of the organic mobile phase. In these conditions, more than 80% of the sophorolipids present in the initial crude fermentation extract were eluted successively from the most hydrophobic lactone forms to the most hydrophilic acid forms. The structures of the isolated sophorolipids were further elucidated by HPLC and NMR analyses.