ABSTRACT
Emulsion systems have been a breakthrough in cosmetic products, providing performance and effectiveness of products that use this technological strategy for drug delivery systems. In this sense, the microemulsion of the multiple emulsion W/O/W type containing a standardized extract of Trichilia catigua with high levels of polyphenols and antioxidants has great potential for cosmetic use. The aim of this study was to evaluate the formulations safety through the analysis of toxicity, comedogenicity, and histopathology in rabbits and apply the Phase-Resolved Photoacoustic Spectroscopy method to determine the formulation percutaneous penetration through the skin. The ex vivo experiments were performed in the ears of albino New Zealand rabbits treated twice a day for 14 days. The results of histological, hematological, and blood chemistry showed that the formulations are safe. Histopathological analysis showed no tissue reaction in any of the analyzed organs (liver and kidneys), confirming the absence of toxicity. Histological analysis showed that the formulations with extract of T. catigua demonstrated mild-moderately comedogenic and acanthosis compared to the control group. Inflammatory reactions, erythema, and desquamation were not observed in treated and controls animals. The phase-resolved photoacoustic spectroscopy method showed the penetration of the developed formulations throughout the rabbit's skin, identifying their absorption bands at the dermal side of the skin. In conclusion, the results of this study provide a step towards the application of the developed natural antioxidant encapsulated in a multiple microemulsion for skincare, concerned with the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the formulation.
