Comparison of stratum corneum penetration and localization of a lipophilic model drug applied in an o/w microemulsion and an amphiphilic cream.

Vehicle dependent effects on the penetration behavior of drugs following topical application are well known from the literature. In this context, many reports concerning the enhancing activities for hydrophilic as well as lipophilic substances by colloidal drug carrier systems, particularly microemulsions, are available. However, there is little knowledge about the localization of the drugs within the skin and the stratum corneum, respectively. In the present study, the lipophilic dye curcumin incorporated in an oil-in-water microemulsion and in an amphiphilic cream was applied onto the skin of human volunteers. Using the method of tape stripping to remove the stratum corneum (SC), the depth profiles of the dye within the horny layer were compared. Applying the microemulsion, a deeper part of the SC was accessible by a number of 20 tapes removed and significantly smaller amounts of curcumin were found on the skin surface. Also differences in the distribution and localization of the dye within the stratum corneum were observed by laser scanning microscopy. Furthermore, curcumin was detected in hair follicles. It was obvious that the microemulsion led to a penetration into the complete follicular infundibula, whereas, following application of the cream, a fluorescence signal was only received from the follicular orifices.

Porcine ear skin: an in vitro model for human skin.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Porcine ear skin is used in studies of percutaneous penetration as a substitute for human skin. The structure of this tissue, including hair follicles, was studied qualitatively and quantitatively in comparison with human skin. METHODS: Sections of shock-frozen biopsies, biopsies embedded in paraffin and cyanoacrylate skin surface biopsies were investigated using microscopy. The thickness of the different skin layers and the follicular characteristics were determined. RESULTS: The thickness of the stratum corneum was 17-28 microm, whereas the viable epidermis was 60-85 microm thick. On 1 cm(2), 11-25 hairs were detected, showing a diameter of 58-97 microm and a maximal extension depth of 0.96-1.38 mm into the skin. The orifices of the porcine infundibula showed a diameter of approximately 200 microm. CONCLUSIONS: The results obtained are similar to those of human skin, indicating the suitability of this porcine tissue as a model for human skin.

Kinetics of blood flow after topical application of benzyl nicotinate on different anatomic sites.

Cutaneous characteristics, e.g., thickness of the SC and density of follicles, affect the penetration of topically applied substances. In the present study, the penetration of benzyl nicotinate, causing a vasodilation, was studied on three anatomic sites (forearm, forehead and calf) differing in their skin characteristics. Therefore, the blood flow of the superficial dermal plexus and that of the larger capillaries in the deeper skin layers was simultaneously measured using a laser Doppler flowmeter. In addition, the cutaneous temperature and redness were determined as a function of time. These four biological reactions were measured in turn on a skin area treated with a gel containing benzyl nicotinate and on an untreated control area. The highest basal levels were observed on the forehead. Topical application of benzyl nicotinate resulted in an increase in each biological response. Compared to the other sites, the maximal values were reached earliest on the forehead, which also showed the fastest decrease. No significant differences were obtained comparing the kinetic data of the calf with that of the forearm. The results indicate an additional contribution by the numerous vellus hair follicles of the forehead to the penetration and exposure of the drug.

Follicular penetration: development of a method to block the follicles selectively against the penetration of topically applied substances.

Investigations into the penetration pathways of topically applied substances through the skin play an important role in dermatological science. Recently, the hair follicles have increasingly been recognized as an important pathway for percutaneous penetration, although the role of the follicles has still not been clarified in detail. Therefore, the aim of the present study was to develop an in vivo method for the analysis of the follicular rate of penetration processes. In order to reach this goal, the follicles were excluded from the penetration process of topically applied substances. Different study designs were evaluated, and we were able to show that the application of nail varnish to each follicular orifice represents an effective method of blocking the follicles selectively against the penetration of topically applied substances. In dermatological science, there is new information on the physiology of skin penetration processes, thus allowing examination of the follicular rate of penetration and improvement of the pharmacokinetics of topically applied substances.

Comparison of blood flow to the cutaneous temperature and redness after topical application of benzyl nicotinate.

The topical application of drugs, such as nicotinates, affects cutaneous blood flow. Such a biological response, which is dependent on the drug and the individual, can be measured noninvasively using laser Doppler flowmetry. We illustrate the kinetics of vasodilation caused by topically applied benzyl nicotinate using a new frequency-selective laser Doppler flowmeter. This flowmeter measures the blood flow in the superficial dermal plexus and the deeper lying larger capillaries simultaneously and indirectly by determining the flow velocity. Both sets of data are compared with the skin temperature and redness. Four biological parameters are measured consecutively on a skin area treated with gel containing benzyl nicotinate and on an untreated control area. A linear relationship between both blood flows is observed. However, no correlation is obtained between the microcirculation with either the cutaneous temperature or the redness. These results indicate the transport of the drug in the blood from the upper to the deeper capillaries. Cutaneous temperature and redness are unsuitable parameters to measure the kinetics of the blood flow after topical application of drugs.

An in vivo model to evaluate the efficacy of barrier creams on the level of skin penetration of chemicals.

The reservoir function and the barrier function are important properties of the skin. The reservoir function is dependent on the barrier function which, however, needs support by protective measures, in particular under working conditions. Barrier creams represent a possibility to protect the skin. In the present study, a method was developed to investigate the effectiveness of reservoir closure by different formulations. Patent Blue V in water was used as a model penetrant. Its penetration, with and without barrier cream treatment, was analyzed by tape stripping in combination with UV/VIS spectroscopic measurements. The investigations showed that the stratum corneum represents a reservoir for topically applied Patent Blue V in water. Furthermore, the barrier investigations showed that vaseline and bees wax form a 100% barrier on the skin surface. The third barrier cream, containing waxes and surfactant, only partially showed a protective effect against the penetration of Patent Blue V in water. Strong interindividual differences were observed for this barrier product. In conclusion, it was assumed that the application of barrier creams cannot replace other protective measures and should be maximally used to inhibit low-grade irritants or in combination with other protectants or in body areas where other protective measures are not applicable.

Cutaneous distribution and localization of dyes affected by vehicles all with different lipophilicity.

The penetration of topically applied substances into the stratum corneum (SC) depends on several factors, e.g., the physicochemical properties of the vehicle used for application. The penetration of highly hydrophilic and lipophilic dyes into the skin was studied using a pure oil (o) or water (w) for the application compared to an o/w emulsion. The penetration and localization of both dyes, the lipophilic curcumin and the hydrophilic Patent blue V, was investigated in vivo using the method of tape stripping and microscopy. In addition, histological sections of biopsies, removed from porcine ear skin were studied using microscopy. Differences in the distribution and the localization of both dyes within the SC were observed. These differences depend on the physicochemical properties of both the vehicles and the dyes. The vehicle appears to affect, in particular, the pathways of penetration.

Follicular penetration and targeting.

In the past, intercellular penetration was assumed to be the most important penetration pathway of topically applied substances. First hints that follicular penetration needs to be taken into consideration were confirmed by recent investigations, presented during the workshop "Follicular Penetration and Targeting" at the 4th Intercontinental Meeting of Hair Research Societies", in Berlin 2004. Hair follicles represent an efficient reservoir for the penetration of topically applied substances with subsequent targeting of distinct cell populations, e.g., nestin-expressing follicular bulge cells. The volume of this reservoir can be determined by differential stripping technology. The follicular penetration processes are significantly influenced by the state of the follicular infundibulum; recent experimental investigations could demonstrate that it is essential to distinguish between open and closed hair follicles. Topically applied substances can only penetrate into open hair follicle. Knowledge of follicular penetration is of high clinical relevance for functional targeting of distinct follicular regions. Human hair follicles show a hair-cycle-dependent variation of the dense neuronal and vascular network. Moreover, during hair follicle cycling with initiation of anagen, newly formed vessels occur. Thus, the potential of nestin-expressing hair follicle stem cells to form neurons and blood vessels was investigated.

Gender-related differences in the physiology of the stratum corneum.

BACKGROUND: Only few studies on gender-related differences in skin physiology have been performed--and they provided conflicting results. OBJECTIVE: In the present study, the effect of gender on the physiology of the stratum corneum was studied. METHODS: The physiological parameters transepidermal water loss, pH value, hydration and sebum content were determined on the flexor forearms of 6 female and 6 male volunteers. In addition, stratum corneum samples, removed by tape stripping, were studied for amount, spectroscopic properties, protein content, and mass. RESULTS: The skin of women was characterized by a significantly higher pH value (5.6 +/- 0.4) than that of men (4.3 +/- 0.4, p < 0.05). Protein absorption was the only other parameter significantly dependent on gender (p < 0.05). Both effects might be caused by differences in human biology, such as hormonal status. CONCLUSION: Therefore, the gender of the volunteers should be considered in dermatologic studies.

Differential stripping: determination of the amount of topically applied substances penetrated into the hair follicles.

The determination of penetration pathways of topically applied substances into the skin is the subject of several investigations. Recently, follicular penetration has become a major focus of interest. To date, a direct, non-invasive quantification of the amount of topically applied substance penetrated into the follicles had not been possible. The development of such a method was the aim of this study. Therefore, the advantages of both stripping techniques, tape stripping and cyanoacrylate skin surface biopsy, were combined and evaluated. Tape stripping was used to remove the part of the stratum corneum that contained the topically applied dye. Subsequently, the follicular contents were ripped off by cyanoacrylate skin surface biopsy. The combined method termed "differential stripping" was evaluated in vitro and in vivo, and the amount of topically applied fluorescent dye penetrated into the hair follicles was quantified after different penetration times. After 30 min, 5% of the recovered concentration of sodium fluorescein was found in the follicular infundibula, where it was still detectable after 48 h. Altogether, the results of this investigation revealed that differential stripping is a new method that can be used to study the penetration of topically applied substances into the follicular infundibula non-invasively and selectively.

Determination of penetration profiles of topically applied substances by means of tape stripping and optical spectroscopy: UV filter substance in sunscreens.

Penetration profiles of topically applied drugs and cosmetic products provide important information on their efficacy. The application of tape stripping in combination with UV/VIS spectroscopy is checked to determine the local position of topically applied substances inside the stratum corneum, the penetration profile. The amount of corneocytes removed with each tape strip is quantified via the particle-dependent absorption, the pseudoabsorption, in the visible spectral range. The concentration of a typical UV filter substance, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, is determined by optical spectroscopy using the tape strips removed originally. In this case, a time-dependent increase in the absorbance must be taken into account. Laser scanning microscopic investigations confirm that the nonhomogeneous distribution of the filter substance, on the strips, can explain this spectroscopic behavior. When reaching a homogeneous distribution, the UV spectroscopic signal reflects the correct concentration. These spectroscopic values are compared with high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) data. The values obtained with both methods for the concentrations of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor are in good agreement. The data obtained are used to illustrate the determination of a penetration profile of a UV filter substance. The results demonstrate that the described protocol is well suited to characterize, in a simple manner, topically applied substances that have a characteristic UV/VIS absorption band.

Orally administered ethanol: transepidermal pathways and effects on the human skin barrier.

Ethanol intake is associated with a variety of skin diseases. The aim of the present study was (1) to identify the pathways of release of orally administered ethanol through the skin, and (2) to investigate the effects of a single oral dose of ethanol on the penetration of topically applied substances into the skin. Ethanol evaporation via the skin was measured using the new technique of ion mobility spectrometry (IMS). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface temperature were simultaneously measured before and after ethanol consumption. Measurements were performed on skin sites with different stratum corneum (SC) thickness, and density of follicles and sweat glands. These appendages were selectively sealed to investigate their participation in ethanol evaporation. The penetration of a topically applied UV filter substance was studied before and after ethanol consumption after removing the SC with adhesive tape. Ethanol evaporation was measured within 5 min of consumption, while the skin surface temperature remained nearly constant. The sealing of the appendages did not have a significant effect on ethanol evaporation. On the forehead, a higher TEWL value was measured than on the forearm. On both skin sites, an increase in TEWL was observed after ethanol ingestion. No influence of orally administered ethanol on the penetration of the topically applied UV filter substance was observed. The results indicate that ethanol evaporation occurs via the lipid layers without a significant effect on the penetration of the topically applied substance.

Influence of nonhomogeneous distribution of topically applied UV filters on sun protection factors.

The aim of the present study is the development of a method to determine quantitatively in vivo the influence of homogeneity of the distribution of sunscreen containing UV filters on the sun protection factor (SPF). The SPF of a sunscreen applied either topically or inside an optical cell (pure or in a solvent) fixed above the skin is determined in vivo. In both cases, in vivo measurements using the erythema formation are carried out. Identical optical parameters of the skin are realized in both experiments. In addition, both in vitro (using tape stripping) and in vivo microscopic measurements are performed to analyze the homogeneity of distribution of the topically applied substances. An SPF of 8 is measured in the experiment applying the UV filters topically, whereas this value increases by a factor of 10 if the same amount of filter substances is distributed homogeneously in solution inside the optical cell. Tape strips removed from skin treated with the sunscreen reflect the inhomogeneous distribution of the topically applied substances on the skin. The direct correlation of homogeneity of distribution with the SPF opens up the possibility to increase the SPF by optimizing the formulation.

In vivo determination of skin surface topography using an optical 3D device.

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE: Topography of the skin surface is a mirror of the functional skin status. Therefore, its evaluation is of great interest for dermatological research. In the present study, a new optical measuring system was applied to evaluate human skin surface topography in vivo and non-invasively, in order to determine elastotic and mimic wrinkles dependent on age, body site and therapy. METHODS: The measurements were performed on the back (n=5), the flexor forearm (n=14) of volunteers in different age groups and on the face of women (n=4) participating in an anti-wrinkle study. The evaluation of the three-dimensional-profiles was performed determining skin surface parameters (mean roughness (R(a)), mean depth of roughness (R(z)), maximum roughness (R(m)) and waviness (W(t))) and applying Fourier analysis. RESULTS: Significant increases in all surface parameters were obtained on the forearms with increasing age. Differences between the surface topographies of forearm and back were only expressed by the waviness and the Fourier analysis. The treatment with botulinum Toxin A led to a diminution of mimic wrinkles as reflected by the furrow profiles. CONCLUSIONS: The results show a significant dependence of the skin surface topography on the age of the volunteer and the body site measured. Particularly the waviness, the Fourier analysis and the furrow profiles reflect such dependencies. The system used also fulfils the requirements for the testing of therapies, as was demonstrated by the reduction of mimic wrinkles after treatment with botulinum Toxin A.

Effect of the vehicle on the amount of stratum corneum removed by tape stripping.

BACKGROUND: The penetration of topically applied substances into the stratum corneum can non-invasively be studied using the tape stripping procedure. This method was applied to investigate in vivo the penetration of a fragrance, vanillin, applied in ethanol and a w/o emulsion. METHODS: Twenty tape strips were removed from each skin area treated with vanillin in ethanol or w/o emulsion, respectively. The concentration of vanillin was determined for each tape strip. In addition, the pseudo-absorption of the corneocytes was determined to calculate the SC profile. RESULTS: The vanillin concentration was correlated both with the tape number and with the stratum corneum profile. Depending on whether the tape number or the profile of the stratum corneum were correlated with the vanillin concentration, different distributions within the stratum corneum were obtained. Different amounts of stratum corneum were removed with 20 tape strips dependent on the vehicle applied previously. The application of the w/o emulsion led to the removal of nearly the half the amount of corneocytes stripped from the ethanol-treated area. CONCLUSIONS: The results obtained underline the general necessity to correlate the amount of stratum corneum with the amount of substance in penetration studies.