Reactivating the extracellular matrix synthesis of sulfated glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans to improve the human skin aspect and its mechanical properties.

BACKGROUND: The aim of this study was to demonstrate that a defined cosmetic composition is able to induce an increase in the production of sulfated glycosaminoglycans (sGAGs) and/or proteoglycans and finally to demonstrate that the composition, through its combined action of enzyme production and synthesis of macromolecules, modulates organization and skin surface aspect with a benefit in antiaging applications. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Gene expression was studied by quantitative reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction using normal human dermal fibroblasts isolated from a 45-year-old donor skin dermis. De novo synthesis of sGAGs and proteoglycans was determined using Blyscan™ assay and/or immunohistochemical techniques. These studies were performed on normal human dermal fibroblasts (41- and 62-year-old donors) and on human skin explants. Dermis organization was studied either ex vivo on skin explants using bi-photon microscopy and transmission electron microscopy or directly in vivo on human volunteers by ultrasound technique. Skin surface modification was investigated in vivo using silicone replicas coupled with macrophotography, and the mechanical properties of the skin were studied using Cutometer. RESULTS: It was first shown that mRNA expression of several genes involved in the synthesis pathway of sGAG was stimulated. An increase in the de novo synthesis of sGAGs was shown at the cellular level despite the age of cells, and this phenomenon was clearly related to the previously observed stimulation of mRNA expression of genes. An increase in the expression of the corresponding core protein of decorin, perlecan, and versican and a stimulation of their respective sGAGs, such as chondroitin sulfate and heparan sulfate, were found on skin explants. The biosynthesis of macromolecules seems to be correlated at the microscopic level to a better organization and quality of the dermis, with collagen fibrils having homogenous diameters. The dermis seems to be compacted as observed on images obtained by two-photon microscopy and ultrasound imaging. At the macroscopic level, this dermis organization shows a smoothed profile similar to a younger skin, with improved mechanical properties such as firmess. CONCLUSION: The obtained results demonstrate that the defined cosmetic composition induces the synthesis of sGAGs and proteoglycans, which contributes to the overall dermal reorganization. This activity in the dermis in turn impacts the surface and mechanical properties of the skin.

High molecular weight hyaluronan decreases UVB-induced apoptosis and inflammation in human epithelial corneal cells.

PURPOSE: The aim of this study was to investigate high molecular weight hyaluronan (HMW-HA) protection on human corneal epithelial (HCE) cells against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation-induced toxic effects. METHODS: The HCE cell line was incubated with HMW-HA or phosphate-buffered salt solution (PBS), rinsed, and exposed to UVB radiation. Cell viability, reactive oxygen species (ROS) and glutathione (GSH) levels, 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-oxo-dG) release, p53 phosphorylation, caspase-3, -8, -9 activation, and interleukin (IL)-6 and -8 production were assessed to evaluate and to compare UVB-induced toxicity between cells treated with HMW-HA and cells treated with PBS. RESULTS: Data indicate that HMW-HA had significant protective effects against UVB radiation. HMW-HA increased HCE cell viability, decreased IL-6 and -8 production, and decreased caspase-3 and -8 activation. However, HMW-HA had no significant effect on ROS and GSH levels, 8-oxo-dG release, and p53 phosphorylation. CONCLUSIONS: To our knowledge, we report for the first time the ability of HMW-HA to protect cells against UV irradiation. According to our results, HMW-HA provides anti-inflammatory and anti-apoptotic signals to cells exposed to UVB.