The structure of the "amorphous" matrix of keratins.

Various keratin fibers, particularly human hairs, were investigated by transmission electron microscopy, TEM, solid-state 1H NMR and Transient Electro-Thermal Technique, TET. The results converge to suggest that the matrix of keratin fiber cortex, far from being amorphous, has a well-defined nano-scale grainy structure, the size of these grains being around 2-4nm. The size of the grains appears to strongly depend on the chemical treatment of the fiber, on the temperature and on the relative humidity of the environment, as well as on the physiological factors at the level of fiber production in follicle. By suggesting an organization at the nano-scale of the protein chains in these grains, likely to be Keratin Associated Proteins, the results challenge the view of matrix as a homogeneous glassy material. Moreover, they indicate the potential of further investigating the purpose of this structure that appears to reflect not only chemical treatments of keratins but also biological processes at the level of the follicle.

Surfactant-activated microgels: a new pathway to rheology modification.

Alkali swellable microgels are widely used to control rheology of formulated products containing surfactants. However, formulations based on these pH-responsive polymers show undesirably large changes in yield stress in a range of pH close to the pKa of the acid group. Analysis of the behavior of a cross-linked copolymer of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid in the nonionized form (at pH below the pKa of methacrylic acid) in the presence of sodium dodecyl sulfate shows surfactant-mediated swelling (an increase in particle diameter by over 2.5×) and a peak in zero-shear viscosity versus surfactant concentration indicating surfactant-mediated interaction of the swollen microgels. On the basis of these results, we demonstrate a new class of nonionic microgels composed of hydrophobic alkyl acrylates and hydrophilic hydroxyalkyl esters that utilize the effects of surfactant-mediated swelling and interaction to provide pH-independent rheological properties.