ABSTRACT
Recently, attention has been focused on identifying natural herbal compounds with high biological activity, especially antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, for preventing and controlling various skin conditions, including inflammation-related diseases such as atopic dermatitis and UV-induced skin photoaging. One key active plant ingredient is 18ß-glycyrrhetinic acid (GA), the main metabolite of glycyrrhizin (GL), obtained from licorice root. The review examines the valuable biological properties of GA, particularly those playing key roles in the treatment of various dermatological disorders in humans. The review highlights the key anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of GA and its toxicity towards normal cells lines. It also examines the physicochemical properties of GA and presents methods of increasing its penetration through the stratum corneum and bioaccumulation with the use of modern delivery systems such as liposomes and nanoemulsions.
Récemment, l'attention s'est concentrée sur l'identification de composés naturels à base de plantes ayant une activité biologique élevée, en particulier des propriétés antioxydantes, anti-inflammatoires et antimicrobiennes, pour prévenir et contrôler diverses affections cutanées, y compris les maladies liées à l'inflammation telles que la dermatite atopique et le photovieillissement induit par les UV. Un ingrédient actif végétal clé est l'acide 18ß-glycyrrhétinique (GA), le principal métabolite de la glycyrrhizine (GL), obtenu à partir de la racine de réglisse. La revue examine les propriétés biologiques précieuses de l'AG, en particulier celles qui jouent un rôle clé dans le traitement de divers troubles dermatologiques chez l'homme. La revue met en évidence les propriétés anti-inflammatoires, anti-oxydantes et antimicrobiennes essentielles de l'AG et sa toxicité vis-à-vis des lignées cellulaires normales. Il examine également les propriétés physicochimiques de l'AG et présente des méthodes pour augmenter sa pénétration dans la couche cornée et sa bioaccumulation grâce à l'utilisation de systèmes d'administration modernes tels que les liposomes et les nanoémulsions.
Subject(s)
Dermatologic Agents/therapeutic use , Glycyrrhetinic Acid/analogs & derivatives , Administration, Cutaneous , Anti-Bacterial Agents/administration & dosage , Anti-Bacterial Agents/therapeutic use , Anti-Inflammatory Agents/administration & dosage , Anti-Inflammatory Agents/therapeutic use , Antioxidants/administration & dosage , Antioxidants/therapeutic use , Dermatologic Agents/administration & dosage , Emulsions , Glycyrrhetinic Acid/administration & dosage , Glycyrrhetinic Acid/therapeutic use , Humans , Liposomes , Skin Diseases/drug therapyABSTRACT
It is well-known that zinc ions are widely used in cosmetic products. Their popularity is associated with the multifunctional profile of Zn2+ , which is classified as an essential chemical element in the human body. This review examines numerous beneficial biological properties of zinc-containing compounds and classifies the compounds used in cosmetic products according to their functionality profile: antioxidant, sunscreen, anti-inflammatory, anti-pigmentation, anti-ageing, anti-acne, antimicrobial, anti-odour, cleansing or stabilizing activity. It also underlines the significance of zinc in enzymatic processes, which depends on the enzyme type acts as inhibitor or enzymatic stimulator. Moreover, the article describes the chemical nature of the most interesting groups of Zn compounds.
