Assessment of Human Skin Gene Expression by Different Blends of Plant Extracts with Implications to Periorbital Skin Aging.

Since the skin is the major protective barrier of the body, it is affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Environmental influences such as ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, pollution or dry/cold air are involved in the generation of radical oxygen species (ROS) and impact skin aging and dermal health. Assessment of human skin gene expression and other biomarkers including epigenetic factors are used to evaluate the biological/molecular activities of key compounds in cosmetic formulas. The objective of this study was to quantify human gene expression when epidermal full-thickness skin equivalents were exposed to: (a) a mixture of betaine, pentylene glycol, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Rhodiola rosea root extract (BlendE) for antioxidant, skin barrier function and oxidative stress (with hydrogen peroxide challenge); and (b) a mixture of Narcissus tazetta bulb extract and Schisandra chinensis fruit extract (BlendIP) for various biomarkers and microRNA analysis. For BlendE, several antioxidants, protective oxidative stress biomarkers and many skin barrier function parameters were significantly increased. When BlendE was evaluated, the negative impact of the hydrogen peroxide was significantly reduced for the matrix metalloproteinases (MMP 3 and MMP 12), the skin aging and oxidative stress biomarkers, namely FBN2, ANXA1 and HGF. When BlendIP was tested for cell proliferation and dermal structural components to enhance the integrity of the skin around the eyes: 8 growth factors, 7 signaling, 7 structural/barrier function and 7 oxidative stress biomarkers were significantly increased. Finally, when BlendIP was tested via real-time RT-PCR for microRNA expression: miR-146a, miR-22, miR155, miR16 and miR21 were all significantly increased over control levels. Therefore, human skin gene expression studies are important tools to assess active ingredient compounds such as plant extract blends to advance dermal hypotheses toward validating cosmetic formulations with botanical molecules.

Novel Gene Expression Profile of Women with Intrinsic Skin Youthfulness by Whole Transcriptome Sequencing.

While much is known about genes that promote aging, little is known about genes that protect against or prevent aging, particularly in human skin. The main objective of this study was to perform an unbiased, whole transcriptome search for genes that associate with intrinsic skin youthfulness. To accomplish this, healthy women (n = 122) of European descent, ages 18-89 years with Fitzpatrick skin type I/II were examined for facial skin aging parameters and clinical covariates, including smoking and ultraviolet exposure. Skin youthfulness was defined as the top 10% of individuals whose assessed skin aging features were most discrepant with their chronological ages. Skin biopsies from sun-protected inner arm were subjected to 3'-end sequencing for expression quantification, with results verified by quantitative reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction. Unbiased clustering revealed gene expression signatures characteristic of older women with skin youthfulness (n = 12) compared to older women without skin youthfulness (n = 33), after accounting for gene expression changes associated with chronological age alone. Gene set analysis was performed using Genomica open-access software. This study identified a novel set of candidate skin youthfulness genes demonstrating differences between SY and non-SY group, including pleckstrin homology like domain family A member 1 (PHLDA1) (p = 2.4x10-5), a follicle stem cell marker, and hyaluronan synthase 2-anti-sense 1 (HAS2-AS1) (p = 0.00105), a non-coding RNA that is part of the hyaluronan synthesis pathway. We show that immunologic gene sets are the most significantly altered in skin youthfulness (with the most significant gene set p = 2.4x10-5), suggesting the immune system plays an important role in skin youthfulness, a finding that has not previously been recognized. These results are a valuable resource from which multiple future studies may be undertaken to better understand the mechanisms that promote skin youthfulness in humans.

Differential effects of dietary supplements on metabolomic profile of smokers versus non-smokers.

BACKGROUND: Cigarette smoking is well-known to associate with accelerated skin aging as well as cardiovascular disease and lung cancer, in large part due to oxidative stress. Because metabolites are downstream of genetic variation, as well as transcriptional changes and post-translational modifications of proteins, they are the most proximal reporters of disease states or reversal of disease states. METHODS: In this study, we explore the potential effects of commonly available oral supplements (containing antioxidants, vitamins and omega-3 fatty acids) on the metabolomes of smokers (n = 11) compared to non-smokers (n = 17). At baseline and after 12 weeks of supplementation, metabolomic analysis was performed on serum by liquid and gas chromatography with mass spectroscopy (LC-MS and GC-MS). Furthermore, clinical parameters of skin aging, including cutometry as assessed by three dermatologist raters blinded to subjects' age and smoking status, were measured. RESULTS: Long-chain fatty acids, including palmitate and oleate, decreased in smokers by 0.76-fold (P = 0.0045) and 0.72-fold (P = 0.0112), respectively. These changes were not observed in non-smokers. Furthermore, age and smoking status showed increased glow (P = 0.004) and a decrease in fine wrinkling (P = 0.038). Cutometry showed an increase in skin elasticity in smokers (P = 0.049) but not in non-smokers. Complexion analysis software (VISIA) revealed decreases in the number of ultraviolet spots (P = 0.031), and cutometry showed increased elasticity (P = 0.05) in smokers but not non-smokers. CONCLUSIONS: Additional future work may shed light on the specific mechanisms by which long-chain fatty acids can lead to increased glow, improved elasticity measures and decreased fine wrinkling in smokers' skin. Our study provides a novel, medicine-focused application of available metabolomic technology to identify changes in sera of human subjects with oxidative stress, and suggests that oral supplementation (in particular, commonly available antioxidants, vitamins and omega-3 fatty acids) affects these individuals in a way that is unique (compared to non-smokers) on a broad level.

Biochemical investigation and gene analysis of equol: a plant and soy-derived isoflavonoid with antiaging and antioxidant properties with potential human skin applications.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of equol, a plant and intestinal flora derived isoflavonoid molecule on the expression of skin genes and proteins using human dermal models. As equol has been shown to mimic 17ß-estradiol and bind specifically to 5α-dihydrotestostone (5α-DHT), these agents were used (in addition to equol) to determine whether equol may play important and beneficial roles in the extracellular matrix (ECM). Equol at 0.3 or 1.2% in qPCR experiments using a human skin barrier model examined ECM gene expression. Equol, 5α-DHT, and 17ß-estradiol at 10 nM were studied in human monolayer fibroblasts cultures (hMFC) for ECM protein expression. Human fibroblast three-dimensional organotypic cultures revealed equol's influence (@ 10 nM) on ECM proteins via fluorescent-activated cell sorting (FACS) analysis. In qPCR experiments, equol significantly increased collagen, elastin (ELN), and tissue inhibitor of metalloprotease and decreased metalloproteinases (MMPs) gene expression and caused significant positive changes in skin antioxidant and antiaging genes. In hMFC, equol significantly increased collagen type I (COL1A1), whereas, 5α-DHT significantly decreased cell viability that was blocked by equol. FACS analysis showed equol and 17ß-estradiol significantly stimulated COL1A1, collagen type III (COL3A1), and ELN while MMPs were significantly decreased compared with control values. Finally, tamoxifen blocked the positive influences of equol on ECM proteins via FACS analysis. These findings suggest that equol has the potential to be used topically for the treatment and prevention of skin aging, by enhancing ECM components in human skin.

An exploratory study to determine the association between assessed facial skin aging and plasma isoprostane levels in middle-aged Japanese women.

BACKGROUND: One of the central mechanisms of aging is hypothesized to be oxidative stress. Quantification of oxidative stress in human organ systems has been difficult. One of the best methods is using plasma isoprostane levels, which have been shown to reflect oxidative stress in multiple nondermatologic organ systems. OBJECTIVE: To determine whether severity of aging of human skin is associated with plasma isoprostane levels, specifically prostaglandin F2a (PGF2a) and 8-iso-PGF2a while controlling for covariates such as body mass index, ultraviolet light exposure, diet, medication, supplement use, and stress levels. METHODS AND MATERIALS: Facial skin aging assessments performed by four blinded dermatologists were correlated with plasma isoprostane levels in 46 healthy, nonsmoking Japanese women aged 45 to 60. RESULTS: Individuals whose assessed skin age exceeded chronological age had mean plasma isoprostane levels of PGF2a and 8-iso-PGF2a that were higher than those whose skin age was assessed to be less than chronological age (p = .001 and .001, respectively). These results remained statistically significant when adjusted for confounding variables (8-iso-PGF2a, p = .02; PGF2a, p = .03). CONCLUSIONS: Plasma isoprostanes as markers of accelerated aging of the skin merit further study.

An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin aging.

BACKGROUND: There are many different visible signs of skin aging. These include wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, lack of firmness, poor texture, enlarged pores, and dryness. While there are many topical agents that claim to deliver wide-spectrum anti-aging benefits, few target all of the signs of skin aging to the same extent. Salicin, an extract from white willow bark, has been researched as a potent anti-inflammatory agent when taken orally. Based on unpublished in-house comprehensive consumer clinical studies, it is believed salicin may have anti-aging capabilities when applied topically to human skin. AIM: This research evaluated the effect of a topical serum formulation containing salicin at 0.5% on the visible signs of skin aging. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This single-center study enrolled 30 female subjects, showing mild to moderate signs of aging, between the ages of 35 and 70 having Fitzpatrick skin types ranging between I and IV. Subjects used the study serum product containing 0.5% salicin on their face twice daily for 12 weeks. Ordinal grading on a nine-point scale (0 = none, 1-3 = mild, 4-6 = moderate, 7-9 = severe) of facial fine lines, molted pigmentation, uneven skin tone, tactile roughness, global firmness appearance, jaw-line contour, radiance, and overall appearance was performed by investigator at baseline, week 1, week 4, week 8, and week 12. Digital photography, ultrasound, cutometry, and corneometry measurements were also performed at each time point. RESULTS: Twenty-nine of 30 subjects successfully completed the study. No tolerability issues were reported. The clinical investigator found statistically significant improvements in wrinkles, tactile roughness, pore size, radiance, and overall appearance at week 1 time point (P ≤ 0.05) against baseline and statistically significant improvements in mottled pigmentation, global firmness, and jaw-line contour at week 4 time point (P ≤ 0.05) against baseline. Cutometry, corneometry, and ultrasound measurements showed significant improvements at week 12 time point (P ≤ 0.05) against baseline. CONCLUSION: Based on the findings from this study, it can be concluded that salicin has the ability to reduce the visible signs of skin aging when applied topically.