The Influence of Short-Wave and Long-Wave Radiation Spectrum on the Photostability of Sunscreens.

BACKGROUND: Sunscreen products aim to help protect the skin against UV radiation and consequently reduce the risk of early skin ageing and skin cancer. However, it is well known that some sunscreen ingredients are not photostable, but this usually refers to irradiation with UV light. Moreover, it has to be mentioned that a relative cumulative erythema effectiveness compliant light source is used for the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) testing. Here, UV simulators equipped with a xenon arc lamp use filters such as WG320 and UG11 (thickness 1 mm) to minimize infrared (IR) radiation and wavelength below 300 nm. However, under practical conditions, the sunscreen product is not only exposed to UVA/B light, but also to visible light (VIS) and IR light. In fact, the spectrum of solar radiation is composed of approximately 7% UV, 39% VIS and 54% IR. AIMS: To investigate the influence of short-wave and long-wave radiation on the photostability of sunscreens. METHODS: Irradiation was performed with the Suntest CPS+ that is considered to closely imitate solar radiation. The filter UG11 (thickness 1 mm), which absorbs much of the VIS and IR light, and the glass filter WG320 (thickness 2 mm), which effectively absorbs radiation of wavelengths less than 300 nm, were used in the Suntest CPS+ both individually and in combination and were inserted between the light source and the samples. The following transmission measurements were carried out with Labsphere's UV-2000s device. Here, the effectiveness (percentage change of SPF before irradiation to SPF after irradiation) as a measure of the photostability was calculated. RESULTS: As expected after total solar spectrum irradiation, the effectiveness in all tested sunscreens is lower compared to relative cumulative erythema effectiveness light used for in vitro testing of SPF. In the reference sunscreen formula S2 as well as in the two different sunscreen products, especially long-wave radiation (>400 nm) had an effect on photostability, whereas short-wave radiation had only a minor impact. In contrast, in the BASF sun care gel line only short-wave radiation below 300 nm had an effect on photostability, and blocking VIS and IR light had no effect at all. CONCLUSION: Based on these data, we can conclude that short waves and/or VIS + IR light have an influence on the photostability of sunscreens.

Application of an Easy-to-Perform High-Energy and Low-End Visible Light Transmittance Method and the Influence of Tinted Sunscreens on High-Energy/Low-End Visible Light Transmittance and Infrared Protection.

BACKGROUND: About 50% of the sun's radiation arriving on earth is visible light (VIS). For a long time, its effects on human health have not been fully investigated. But recently, the influence of VIS has gained more attention, especially regarding skin physiology. Studies showed various effects, many of them harmful, comparable to UV radiation. As a result, there are now a few sunscreens commercially available which claim protection against VIS. The question of whether protection is necessary is still much discussed. AIMS: The objective of this study was to develop an easy-to-perform high-energy visible (HEV) and low-end visible (LEV) light transmittance method to determine the direct VIS protection of sunscreens and other cosmetic samples. Furthermore, the influence of the brightness of the tested products on the HEV, LEV, and infrared A protection was investigated. METHODS: An experimental setup consisting of a light source, a VIS-transmissible filter system, and a sensor unit was built to measure the direct VIS protection of sunscreens and other daily skin care products in two ranges of the VIS area. For a closer look, the brightness of the samples was evaluated by photometric assessment. RESULTS/CONCLUSION: The experimental setup could be validated. It could be demonstrated for the first time that there is a strong positive linear correlation between transmittance and brightness of tinted sunscreen and daily skin care products with sunscreen properties in the HEV, LEV, and infrared A range. However, tinted samples worked best in the blue light region, and the higher the wavelength range, the lower the protection.

Development of an in vitro Test Procedure to Determine the Direct Infrared A Protection of Sunscreens and Non-Cosmetic Samples.

BACKGROUND: Every day human skin is exposed to infrared A (IRA) radiation as part of the natural sun rays. As IRA radiation accounts for around one third of the solar radiation, it has gained great attention concerning its effects on the human body and skin. In the past few years it has been discussed controversially whether IRA radiation (of solar origin) is harmful or not. Nonetheless, there are several sunscreens on the German market that claim IRA protection for themselves. AIMS: The present study seeks to find an experimental set-up and a test procedure for the determination and quantification of direct IRA protection (realized via reflection or absorption of the IRA radiation), since to our knowledge these do not yet exist. METHODS: In this study we proved the usability of a set-up consisting of a light source, an IRA-transmissible filter system and a sensor unit, for the determination and quantification of the IRA protection of cosmetic and non-cosmetic samples. RESULTS/CONCLUSION: The applicability of the IRA emission of the light source, the spectral detector, transmissivity of the filter systems and the sample carriers could be validated. This experimental set-up can be used as an in vitro test procedure for the determination of direct IRA protection.

Effects on detection of radical formation in skin due to solar irradiation measured by EPR spectroscopy.

In various research projects, oxidative stress in irradiated skin was investigated by measuring the production of free radical using EPR spectroscopy. However, comparison of the obtained measuring results proved to be difficult as different preparation parameters were used for those measurements. In the present study the influence of the preparation parameters on the detected radical production was methodically investigated. For this purpose, porcine skin was exposed in situ to UV and VIS-NIR radiation, respectively, while being measured in an X band EPR spectrometer. Prior to the measurements, the skin had been treated with the spin trap N-tert-Butyl-α-phenylnitrone (PBN) and the spin marker 3-(Carboxyl)-2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-1-pyrrolidinyloxy (PCA). The two methods were investigated for quantitative comparability, for advantages and disadvantages and for errors potentially affecting the evaluation of the results. A significant influence of the preparation parameters (concentration and amount of substance) on the detected radical formations could be found. This influence had a nonlinear effect on the detected radical production. 120µl of incubated amount for 1M PBN and for PCA at a concentration of 0.6 and 1.5mM were determined to be the optimum parameters. The incubated skin samples were 1cm in diameter and 300µm thick. Between 22 and 37°C the incubation temperature showed no significant influence on the detected radical production. For the first time it could be demonstrated for PCA-incubated skin that the radiation-induced radical production depends exclusively on the irradiation dose, provided the preparation parameters and the spectral region are kept constant. In addition, the radical production in the UVB-UVA and VIS-NIR spectral regions was measured in PCA- and PBN-treated excised porcine skin. It was found that PBN and PCA provide comparable results for the relative quantity and kinetics of radical production.

New Approach to Develop Optimized Sunscreens that Enable Cutaneous Vitamin D Formation with Minimal Erythema Risk.

Sunscreens protect the skin against erythemal radiation (Eer). But at the same time they reduce the effective radiation dose (EVD) responsible for the formation of previtamin D in the skin. The paper describes a calculation method for optimizing the ratio EVD/Eer behind sunscreens e.g. with SPF 5, 15 and 30 respectively. Taking into account that a majority of people in industrialized countries suffer from a shortage in vitamin D even in summer time, the ratio Evd/Eer is a new and important criterion for the quality of sunscreens. Furthermore the exposure time tvd needed per day for forming the equivalent of the recommended amount of 2000 IU of vitamin D per day for skin type 2 is estimated when sunscreens with different filter compositions are used. In vitro experiments show a significant increase of the conversion of 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC) to previtamin D when exposed to artificial solar radiation behind an experimental sunscreen optimized for previtamin D production compared to a commercial sunscreen having the same SPF.

Free Radical Threshold Value: A New Universal Body Constant.

Three evolutionary sources create 'primary' reactive oxygen species (ROS) and 'secondary' lipid oxygen species (LOS), forming the human body's 'free radical ground state'. We present evidence for the existence of a universal free radical threshold value (FRTV), defining the borderline between advantageous and adverse effects of free radicals observed above the free radical ground state. Based on standard vitamin D doses, the calculated amount of ∼3.5 × 10(12) rad/mg ROS/LOS tissue represents the tolerated number of free radicals in skin tissue - defined as FRTV. By means of quantitative ESR x-band spectroscopy, the FRTV was experimentally verified using ex vivo human skin irradiated with ultraviolet + visible (UV + VIS), UVB + UVA and VIS light. In addition, we investigated whether this threshold is also existent in internal organs by extending our experiment to fresh porcine liver. Based on the determination of ROS/LOS below and above the FRTV, ROS > LOS was characterized as beneficial and LOS > ROS as deleterious to the organism, respectively. Results of the experiments using porcine liver confirmed the appearance of the FRTV at radical generation ∼3.5 × 10(12) rad/mg. The relation ROS/LOS before and after the FRTV was consistent with the results determined for the skin. We conclude that the FRTV, theoretically calculated and experimentally confirmed, should be considered as a new 'universal body constant'.