Muscle Cooling Before and in the Middle of a Session: There Are Benefits on Subsequent Localized Endurance Performance in a Warm Environment.

ABSTRACT: Balás, J, Kodejska, J, Procházková, A, Knap, R, and Tufano, JJ. Muscle cooling before and in the middle of a session: there are benefits on subsequent localized endurance performance in a warm environment. J Strength Cond Res 38(3): 533-539, 2024-Localized cold-water immersion (CWI) has been shown to facilitate recovery in the middle of a session of exhaustive repeated forearm contractions. However, it has been suggested that these benefits may be attributed to "precooling" the muscle before an activity, as opposed to cooling a previously overheated muscle. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how precooling and mid-cooling affects localized repeated muscular endurance performance in a warm environment. Nineteen subjects completed a familiarization session and 3 laboratory visits, each including 2 exhaustive climbing trials separated by 20 minutes of recovery: PRE CWI (CWI, trial 1; passive sitting [PAS], trial 2); MID CWI (PAS, trial 1; CWI, trial 2); and CONTROL (PAS, trial 1; PAS, trial 2). Climbing trial 1 in PRE CWI was 32 seconds longer than in CONTROL ( p = 0.013; d = 0.46) and 47 seconds longer than in MID CWI ( p = 0.001; d = 0.81). The time of climbing trial 2 after PAS (PRE CWI and CONTROL) was very similar (312 vs. 319 seconds) irrespective of the first trial condition. However, the time of the second trial in MID CWI was 43 seconds longer than in PRE CWI ( p < 0.001; d = 0.63) and 50 seconds longer than in CONTROL ( p < 0.001; d = 0.69). In warm environments, muscle precooling and mid-cooling can prolong localized endurance performance during climbing. However, the effectiveness of mid-cooling may not be as a "recovery strategy" but as a "precooling" strategy to decrease muscle temperature before subsequent performance, delaying the onset of localized heat-induced neuromuscular fatigue.

Performance Assessment for Rock Climbers: The International Rock Climbing Research Association Sport-Specific Test Battery.

PURPOSE: To examine the validity and reliability of a battery of 10 measures designed to assess the key physiological parameters for successful rock climbing performance. METHODS: In phase 1 of the research, an expert panel, using the Delphi method, established a 10-item test battery based on the key determinants of climbing performance. In phase 2, the tests were assessed for validity and reliability to examine their suitability as sport-specific measures of rock climbing performance. A total of 132 rock climbers, from 7 countries, volunteered to take part in the study. Each climber visited their nearest laboratory on 3 separate occasions in order to enable the required tests and retests to be completed. A minimum of 7 days was allowed between visits. RESULTS: The 10 tests established for phase 2 were designed as sport-specific measures of flexibility, strength, power, and endurance. Results indicated that, while reliable, the flexibility and strength tests were only partially successful in differentiating across climber abilities. The power and endurance tests, however, performed well with regard to validity and reliability, with the finger hang and powerslap tests being most strongly correlated with performance ability (P < .0005 to P < .002). CONCLUSION: The authors' data suggest that climbing may require a threshold level of flexibility and strength for successful performance, beyond which further improvements may not be required. In contrast, the finger hang and powerslap tests were not only reliable measures but also differentiated between climber abilities from lower grade to elite levels.

Males benefit more from cold water immersion during repeated handgrip contractions than females despite similar oxygen kinetics.

The purpose of the present study was to assess the effect of different water immersion temperatures on handgrip performance and haemodynamic changes in the forearm flexors of males and females. Twenty-nine rock-climbers performed three repeated intermittent handgrip contractions to failure with 20 min recovery on three separate laboratory visits. For each visit, a randomly assigned recovery strategy was applied: cold water immersion (CWI) at 8 °C (CW8), 15 °C (CW15) or passive recovery (PAS). While handgrip performance significantly decreased in the subsequent trials for the PAS (p < 0.05), there was a significant increase in time to failure for the second and third trial for CW15 and in the second trial for CW8; males having greater performance improvement (44%) after CW15 than females (26%). The results indicate that CW15 was a more tolerable and effective recovery strategy than CW8 and the same CWI protocol may lead to different recovery in males and females.

Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing.

PURPOSE: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability. METHODS: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90°) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180° and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF. RESULTS: The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r2 = .48 and r2 = .42 for sport climbing; r2 = .66 and r2 = .42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC] = 0.94, ICC = 0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 ± 112 N) than without AF (546 ± 132 N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC = 0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r2 = .42) and bouldering ability (r2 = .58). CONCLUSION: Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.

Effect of Cold-Water Immersion on Handgrip Performance in Rock Climbers.

PURPOSE: To determine the effect of 2 cold-water-immersion (CWI) temperatures (15°C and 8°C) on repeat handgrip performance to failure. METHODS: A total of 32 participants completed 3 intermittent trials to failure on a climbing-specific handgrip dynamometer on 3 laboratory visits. For each visit, a different recovery strategy was employed: passive (PAS) recovery, CWI at 8°C (CW8), or CWI at 15°C (CW15). The force time integral (FTI: time of contraction multiplied by the force of contraction) was determined to assess handgrip performance. RESULTS: There was no significant difference between recovery strategies at the end of trial 1. In response to the PAS recovery strategy, there were 10% and 22% decreases in FTI in the second and third trials, respectively. The PAS recovery-strategy FTI values were lower than both CWI strategies for trials 2 and 3 (P < .05). FTI increased in the second trial (↑32% and ↑38%; P < .05) for both immersion strategies (CW8 and CW15, respectively) compared with trial 1. During the third trial, FTI was significantly higher for CW15 than CW8 (↑27% and ↓4% with respect to baseline trial; P < .05). CONCLUSIONS: The results suggest that CWI has potential performance advantages over PAS recovery for rock climbing. The data show that in events where multiple recoveries are required, 15°C CWI may be more beneficial for climbers than 8°C CWI. Future research should focus on the optimization of protocols for sport performance.

Reliability of Near-Infrared Spectroscopy for Measuring Intermittent Handgrip Contractions in Sport Climbers.

Balás, J, Kodejska, J, Krupková, D, Hannsmann, J, and Fryer, S. Reliability of near-infrared spectroscopy for measuring intermittent handgrip contractions in sport climbers. J Strength Cond Res 32(2): 494-501, 2018-The use of near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) to investigate muscle oxygenation changes during physical tasks such as rock climbing has rapidly increased within recent years; yet, there is no known measure of reliability. The current study aimed to determine intersession reliability and minimal detectable change (MDC) of continuous wave NIRS parameters during intermittent handgrip contractions in rock climbers. Thirty-two sport climbers were tested for exhaustive intermittent handgrip exercise (8-second contraction-2-second relief) at 60% of maximal voluntary contraction on 3 separate days. During each visit, continuous wave NIRS was used to determine tissue saturation index (TSI) as the measure of tissue oxygenation in the flexor digitorum profundus. To assess the intersession reliability, the intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC), SEM, coefficient of variation (CV), and MDC were used. Mean deoxygenation during the contractions provided reliable results ([INCREMENT] TSI; first trial -8.9 ± 2.9%, second trial -8.8 ± 2.7%, and third trial -8.4 ± 2.6%; ICC = 0.692; SEM = 1.5%; CV = 17.2%; MDC = 4.2%). Mean muscle reoxygenation during the relief periods was similarly reliable ([INCREMENT] TSI; first trial 9.0 ± 3.1%, second trial 8.8 ± 2.9%, and third trial 8.5 ± 2.7%; ICC = 0.672; SEM = 1.7%; CV = 19.0%, MDC = 4.7%). As such, continuous wave NIRS provides a reliable measure of deoxygenation and reoxygenation during intermittent contractions to failure in the forearm flexors of rock climbers. Differences exceeding ∼4.5% for [INCREMENT] TSI during contraction and relief periods should be considered meaningful.

The effect of potential fall distance on hormonal response in rock climbing.

The aim of this study was to examine the effect of alterations in potential lead fall distance on the hormonal responses of rock climbers. Nine advanced female climbers completed two routes while clipping all (PRO-all) or half (PRO-½) of the fixed points of protection. Venous blood samples were analysed for total catecholamines, noradrenaline (norepinephrine), adrenaline (epinephrine), dopamine, lactate, cortisol and serotonin. Differences between the two conditions pre, immediately post and 15 min post climbing were assessed using a 2 × 3 repeated measures ANOVA. All hormones and blood lactate concentrations increased significantly (P < 0.05) immediately post climb, except for cortisol. Peak cortisol concentrations did not occur until 15 min post ascent. Further, significant interactions between climbing and clipping conditions were found for total catecholamines (890% of basal concentration in PRO-½ vs. 568% in PRO-all), noradrenaline (794% vs. 532%) and dopamine (500% vs. 210%). There were no significant interactions for adrenaline (1920% vs. 1045%), serotonin (150% vs. 127%) or lactate (329% vs. 279%). The study showed a greater catecholamine response with an increase in potential lead fall distance. The most pronounced increases seen in catecholamine concentration were reported for dopamine and noradrenaline.

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers.

This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time-force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time-force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P < .05), force-time integral (↑ 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.

The relationship between climbing ability and physiological responses to rock climbing.

AIM: The aim of this study was to examine the relationship between submaximal and maximal physiological responses to rock climbing for climbers of differing abilities. METHODS: Twenty-six male climbers performed a submaximal climbing test on a known circuit at 90° (vertical) and 105° (15° overhanging) inclination and speed 25 movements · min(-1). A maximal test was undertaken on a similar circuit at the same speed with inclination increasing by 10° for each successive 3 min stage. RESULTS: Mean oxygen consumption and heart rate (HR) increased with wall inclination and climbers reached a mean (± SD) peak VO2 of 40.3 ± 3.5 mL · kg(-1) · min(-1) during the maximal test. Self-reported climbing ability was negatively correlated with VO2 and HR during the submaximal test at 90° (VO2, r = -0.82; HR, and r = -0.66) and at 105° (VO2, r = -0.84; HR, and r = -0.78) suggesting an increased exercise economy for climbers with a higher ability level. CONCLUSION: Findings from this study indicate that there is a relationship between wall inclination and the physiological demand of a climb. However, the increased technical ability and fitness of higher level climbers appears to an extent to offset the increased demand through improved exercise economy which in turn leads to an increased time to exhaustion and an improvement in performance.