Internet-based lay person rating of facial photographs to assess effects of a cleansing product and a decent cosmetic foundation on the attractiveness of female faces.

It is well established that decorative cosmetics can enhance female facial attractiveness. In this study, we investigated the effects of a cleanser and a decent foundation on attractiveness of female faces. Comparative rating of a set of facial photographs by a group of lay persons revealed that the cleansing product was significantly reducing the attractiveness of the stimulus persons. Treatment with the foundation increased the attractiveness of the female faces clearly. The authors conclude that even unobtrusive cosmetic treatments like cleansers and light foundations may cause relevant changes of the attractiveness of female faces.

Stimulation of skin's energy metabolism provides multiple benefits for mature human skin.

As an organism ages, there is a decline in mitochondrial function and cellular energy balance. This decline is both accelerated by and can cause the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that damage nuclear and mitochondrial DNA, lipid membranes as well as structural and catalytic proteins, especially those involved in energetic pathways of cells. Further, ROS have also been linked to some of the detrimental skin changes that occur as a result of photoaging. We have previously shown that levels of Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), a component of the respiratory chain in mitochondria, are reduced in skin cells from aging donors, and that topical supplementation can ameliorate processes involved in skin aging. Creatine is another important component of the cellular energy system and phosphocreatine, its phosphorylated form, functions as a reservoir for high energy phosphates. Unfortunately the creatine system and thus the energy storage mechanism in skin are negatively affected by aging and conditions of oxidative stress. This article reviews some of our in vivo data about the synergistic effects of combining a stabilized form of Creatine with CoQ10 and clearly depicts their beneficial effects as active ingredients in topical formulations.

Topical activity of ascorbic acid: from in vitro optimization to in vivo efficacy.

We present here a new cosmetic formula system containing 3% ascorbic acid based on an optimized oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. This formulation demonstrated a good long-term stability of the active ingredient and also of the emulsion itself. It could be deduced from in vitro release studies that this O/W emulsion enabled a better release of the hydrophilic active agent than an alternative W/O emulsion. By measuring the ultraweak photon emission, which is a well-established parameter for the oxidative stress in the skin, the high in vivo antioxidant capacity of 3% ascorbic acid was demonstrated after 1 week of product application. This placebo-controlled study also proved that ascorbic acid in an O/W cream reduced oxidative stress in human skin significantly better than the derivative sodium ascorbyl-2-phosphate, a more stable vitamin C replacement commonly used in cosmetic formulations. With increasing age, the number of papillae in the epidermal-dermal junction zone in human skin are reduced. This implies a possible consequence of reduced mechanical resistance of the skin and impaired supply of the epidermis with nutrients. In a 1-month placebo-controlled study on 25 human volunteers, a significant increase in the number of dermal papillae after application of the 3% ascorbic acid cream was demonstrated, using a confocal laser scanning microscope. Fine lines and wrinkles are a characteristic sign of aged and especially photo-aged skin. Application of 3% ascorbic acid in a 12-week placebo-controlled usage study indicated a significant reduction of facial wrinkles. Altogether, 3% ascorbic acid in a cosmetic O/W emulsion has been shown to be appropriately stable and to enable a good release of the active agent in vitro as a precondition for a high efficacy in vivo. Application in vivo resulted in a significant reduction of oxidative stress in the skin, an improvement of the epidermal-dermal microstructure and a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles in aged skin. These results were received within a relatively short period of time of product application.

Multicentre comparison of skin hydration in terms of physical-, physiological- and product-dependent parameters by the capacitive method (Corneometer CM 825).

A multicentre study for measuring skin hydration with 349 volunteers was carried out in six different laboratories. The purpose of the study was to investigate physical-, physiological- and product-dependent parameters of three test emulsions (base, base + moisturizer and base + moisturizer + lipids) in a double-blind study. A comparison between analogous and digital sensor technology of the Corneometer CM825 was examined. Here, a clear relationship between both sensor types could be highlighted. A vital point of the study was the division of the test subjects according to their skin type. To get more objective limits for three different skin types - very dry, dry and normal skin - visual expert evaluation, self-assessment and hydration measurements were analysed by means of statistical methods. The moisture-related skin types were determined as follows: very dry skin was characterized with corneometer units below 30, dry skin between 30 and 40 and normal skin higher than 40 a.u. (arbitrary units). The efficacy of the three test emulsions was examined in relation to the mentioned skin types. Analysing the measured data of all test centres, a clear dependency of skin physiology (skin type) and product efficacy became evident. The drier the skin, the higher the increase of hydration. The product performance of the three test emulsions compared to the untreated control resulted in a significant increase of skin hydration in all measuring centres. The evaluation of a product ranking showed a good differentiation between the basic emulsion and the two other products. An increase of efficacy by adding lipids could be observed in four of six centres. The important influence of the skin type of the volunteers on the degree of product performance, as demonstrated in this study, should be especially considered when drawing up guidelines for efficacy testing.

Translocation t(1;22) mimicking t(1;19) in a child with acute lymphoblastic leukemia as revealed by chromosome painting.

The karyotype of a boy with acute lymphoblastic leukemia (ALL) presenting with numerical and structural chromosome aberrations as determined by Giemsa-banding was further investigated using chromosome painting (CP). A translocation t(11;18)(q23;q21) was verified by this approach, and gain of chromosome 21 material due to a structural rearrangement was detected. Moreover, an unbalanced translocation of the long arm of chromosome 1, resembling the well known translocation t(1;19), was demonstrated to involve chromosome 22 instead of chromosome 19. Immunophenotyping of the leukemic blasts led to the diagnosis common ALL (CD19+, CD10+, clg-). Our case indicates that in ALL a translocation t(1;19) may be mimicked by other chromosomal rearrangements, and that CP may efficiently complement conventional cytogenetics in the exact characterization of the involved chromosomes.