Sensory and instrumental characterization of fast inverting oil-in-water emulsions for cosmetic application.

OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to perform short-term sensory testing and instrumental (conductivity and rheological) characterization of a fast inverted oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion base, also known as a SWOP (Switch-Oil-Phase) emulsion, and reference o/w and water-in-oil (w/o) emulsion bases under various testing conditions: in the presence of ions and at different temperatures. SWOP emulsions are known as metastable o/w emulsions, which invert into w/o emulsions on application of mechanical energy, while rubbing it onto the skin and due to their properties SWOP emulsion are especially suitable as a cosmetic vehicle in, for example, sun-protection products. METHODS: Sensory testing, which included the evaluation of twenty attributes of the investigated emulsion bases, was performed by a panel of 20 healthy assessors experienced in the evaluation of cosmetic products. Rheological characterization of the investigated emulsion bases included continuous flow testing and oscillatory measurements under various testing conditions. Additionally, conductivity measurements were combined with rheological characterization to monitor stability changes of investigated emulsions. The instrumental and sensory results were analysed statistically and compared. RESULTS: The obtained results indicated that the investigated emulsions behaved differently in the presence of ions (originating from artificial sweat solution) and at different temperatures (under storage and application conditions). Namely, the SWOP emulsion showed similar behaviour to the reference o/w emulsion under storage conditions, but in the presence of ions and at skin temperature, the SWOP emulsion was followed by re-establishment of a stable w/o system, whereas reference o/w emulsion was irreversibly destroyed. The statistical analysis of chosen sensorial attributes indicated that the reference w/o emulsion was significantly different in comparison with the reference o/w and SWOP emulsions, mainly, standing in good agreement with the results of rheological characterization. CONCLUSION: The study showed that rheological measurements potentially could be related to certain sensory attributes and used for faster development of SWOP emulsions in the future. Finally, SWOP emulsions should be considered for further investigation as suitable vehicles in cosmetic products due to their favourable physicochemical and sensory characteristics which could be partially predicted with instrumental characterization.

Hydrophilic gels containing chlorophyllin-loaded liposomes: development and stability evaluation.

The aim of this study was to develop and characterize hydrophilic gels containing chlorophyllin(CHL)-loaded liposomes as well as to evaluate their stability. Two different CHL-loaded liposome dispersions using non-hydrogenated and hydrogenated soybean lecithin were prepared, characterized for their particle size, polydispersity index and trapping efficiency and incorporated in Carbopol 940 NF hydrogel. The gels obtained were analyzed for flow properties, pH values and CHL content. The control liposome-free gel was obtained by incorporating the CHL solution in the hydrogel. The stability of the gels was evaluated in terms of rheological properties, pH values and CHL content during 6 months' storage at 20 +/- 2 degrees C. Suitable gel formulations for topical use were obtained revealing shear-thinning plastic flow behaviour without significant thixotropy during the whole period of examination. High yield values of the samples during the whole period indicated a long-term stability of the gel formulations. The gel formulations expressed a mild acid value acceptable for topical preparations. After 6 months' storage the CHL content was highest in the gel containing non-hydrogenated lecithin liposomes, followed by the gel containing hydrogenated lecithin liposomes and liposome-free gel, indicating that the encapsulation of CHL in liposomes led to a greater stability of CHL.

Polymer-stabilized emulsion systems: structural characteristics and physical stability evaluation.

In the course of investigation of the effects of polymeric emulsifier (Simulgel A) on the structural characteristics and physical stability (during storage time) of semisolid o/w emulsion systems with different emulsifier concentrations, dispersed droplets of an internal oil phase (4.5-11.5 microm size) were discovered. The degree of dispersity was increased along with increasing polymeric emulsifier concentration (from 1 to 5% m/m), which was shown by microscopic analysis. Experiments were also carried out using pH, electrical conductivity, and rheological (rotational and oscillatory) measurements. Emulsion samples expressed a mild acid value acceptable for topical preparations during a 6-month period. Electrical conductivity of fresh samples ranged from 0.423 to 2.009 mS/cm and after a 6-month period this slightly increased to 0.663-2.890 mS/cm. All emulsion samples revealed plastic flow behavior in fresh state, with changes in flow pattern during storage time. Viscoelastic properties defined by the oscillatory rheometry results were in good correlation with parameters of rotational rheometry and degree of internal phase dispersity. High yield stress values (flow tests) and favorable low values of damping factor (oscillatory studies) both indicated good internal structuring and long-term stability of sample containing 3% m/m of polymeric emulsifier.