ABSTRACT
Sugar-based surfactants are involved in skin related allergy cases in the past decade. Skin irritation starts with the interaction of the surfactant with the skin lipids leading to lipid emulsification and eventual barrier damage. Polymers or co-surfactants can be used to mitigate the allergenic effect but the mechanism of formulation mildness on skin remains unclear. We have used the quartz crystal microbalance (QCM) together with dissipative particle dynamics (DPD) simulation, small angle x-ray scattering (SAXS) as well as cell viability tests to decipher the interactions between poloxamers and sucrose monolaurate (SML), and how these interactions could prevent the disruption of a model supported phospholipid bilayer (SLB). Poloxamer addition to the SML solution can delay or totally prevent the disruption of the SLB depending on poloxamer type and concentration. Poloxamer P407 (Pluronic® F127) delays the onset of disruption while poloxamer P188 (Pluronic® F68) does not preserve the bilayer integrity even at high concentration of up to 15% w/w. Preservation of the SLB is likely due to the differences in the aggregates formation between SML-F127 and SML-F68 mixtures with corresponding retarded motion of SML micelles through the SML-F127 polymer matrix that improved cell viability.
