E-cadherin mediates ultraviolet radiation- and calcium-induced melanin transfer in human skin cells.

Skin pigmentation is directed by epidermal melanin units, characterized by long-lived and dendritic epidermal melanocytes (MC) that interact with viable keratinocytes (KC) to contribute melanin to the epidermis. Previously, we reported that MC:KC contact is required for melanosome transfer that can be enhanced by filopodi, and by UVR/UVA irradiation, which can upregulate melanosome transfer via Myosin X-mediated control of MC filopodia. Both MC and KC express Ca2+ -dependent E-cadherins. These homophilic adhesion contacts induce transient increases in intra-KC Ca2+ , while ultraviolet radiation (UVR) raises intra-MC Ca2+ via calcium-selective ORAI1 ion channels; both are associated with regulating melanogenesis. However, how Ca2+ triggers melanin transfer remains unclear. Here we evaluated the role of E-cadherin in UVR-mediated melanin transfer in human skin cells. MC and KC in human epidermis variably express filopodia-associated E-cadherin, Cdc42, VASP and ß-catenin, all of which were upregulated by UVR in human MC in vitro. Knockdown of E-cadherin revealed that this cadherin is essential for UVR-induced MC filopodia formation and melanin transfer. Moreover, Ca2+ induced a dose-dependent increase in filopodia formation and melanin transfer, as well as increased ß-catenin, Cdc42, Myosin X and E-cadherin expression in these skin cells. Together, these data suggest that filopodial proteins and E-cadherin, which are upregulated by intracellular (UVR-stimulated) and extracellular Ca2+ availability, are required for filopodia formation and melanin transfer. This may open new avenues to explore how Ca2+ signalling influences human pigmentation.

TGF-beta-induced early gene-1 overexpression promotes oxidative stress protection and actin cytoskeleton rearrangement in human skin fibroblasts.

BACKGROUND: Transforming growth factor beta inducible early gene-1 (TIEG-1), a member of the Krüppel-like factor, was identified as a primary response gene for TGF-ß. The role of TIEG-1 in skin repair has been mainly addressed in vivo on TIEG-1 null mice model and the mechanism remains unexplored. METHODS: We investigated the modulation of TIEG-1 expression in normal human skin fibroblasts by either down-expressing or overexpressing the gene. We evaluated reactive oxygen species production and the cell viability of treated cells. The effect of TIEG-1 overexpression was monitored by wound healing assay and immunofluorescence staining of actin fibers organization and alpha-smooth muscle actin (α-SMA). Western blots were carried out to identify the level of expression or phosphorylation of key proteins such as cofilin, Rho GTPases, and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (p38 MAPK). RESULTS: TIEG-1 down-regulation had a deleterious effect on the cell viability. It was significantly reduced (65±5%) and exposure to ultraviolet further increased this effect (47±3%). By contrast, cells overexpressing TIEG-1 had a reduced reactive oxygen species production (75%) compared to control and mock-transfected cells. This overexpression also resulted in formation of actin stress fibers and increased α-SMA expression and an enhanced wound healing feature. RhoB GTPase was upregulated and phosphorylation of cofilin and p38 MAPK was observed. CONCLUSION: TIEG-1 overexpression in normal human skin fibroblasts results in improved resistance to oxidative stress, myofibroblast-like conversion that involved RhoB signaling pathway with cofilin and p38 MAPK proteins activation. GENERAL SIGNIFICANCE: This study enlightens the role of TIEG-1 role in skin biology.

Differential expression of cathepsins K, S and V between young and aged Caucasian women skin epidermis.

Cutaneous aging translates drastic structural and functional alterations in the extracellular matrix (ECM). Multiple mechanisms are involved, including changes in protease levels. We investigated the age-related protein expression and activity of cysteine cathepsins and the expression of two endogenous protein inhibitors in young and aged Caucasian women skin epidermis. Immunofluorescence studies indicate that the expression of cathepsins K, S and V, as well as cystatins A and M/E within keratinocytes is reduced in photoprotected skin of aged women. Furthermore, the overall endopeptidase activity of cysteine cathepsins in epidermis lysates decreased with age. Albeit dermal elastic fiber and laminin expression is reduced in aged skin, staining of nidogen-1, a key protein in BM assembly that is sensitive to proteolysis by cysteine, metallo- and serine proteases, has a similar pattern in both young and aged skin. Since cathepsins contribute to the hydrolysis and turnover of ECM/basement membrane components, the abnormal protein degradation and deposition during aging process may be related in part to a decline of lysosomal/endosomal cathepsin K, S and V activity.

Cleavage of nidogen-1 by cathepsin S impairs its binding to basement membrane partners.

Cathepsin S (catS), which is expressed in normal human keratinocytes and localized close to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) degrades some of major basement membrane (BM) constituents. Among them, catS readily hydrolyzed in a time and dose dependent manner human nidogen-1 (nid-1) and nidogen-2, which are key proteins in the BM structure. CatS preferentially cleaved nid-1 at both acid and neutral pH. Hydrolysis of nid-1 was hampered in murine ctss(-/-) spleen lysates pretreated with inhibitors of other classes of proteases. Nid-1 was cleaved within its G2 and G3 globular domains that are both involved in interactions with other BM components. Binding assays with soluble and immobilized ligands indicated that catS altered the formation of complexes between nid-1 and other BM components. Assuming that the cleavage of nid-1 impairs its ability to crosslink with BM partners and perturbs the viscoelastic properties of BM matrix, these data indicate that catS may participate in BM proteolysis, in addition to already identified proteases.

Melanin transfer in human skin cells is mediated by filopodia--a model for homotypic and heterotypic lysosome-related organelle transfer.

Transfer of the melanocyte-specific and lysosome-related organelle, the melanosome, from melanocytes to keratinocytes is crucial for the protection of the skin against harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR)--our main physiological cutaneous stressor. However, this commonplace event remains a most enigmatic process despite several early hypotheses. Recently, we and others have proposed a role for filopodia in melanin transfer, although conclusive experimental proof remained elusive. Using known filopodial markers (MyoX/Cdc42) and the filopodial disrupter, low-dose cytochalasin-B, we demonstrate here a requirement for filopodia in melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes and also, unexpectedly, between keratinocytes. Melanin distribution throughout the skin represents the key phenotypic event in skin pigmentation. Melanocyte filopodia were also necessary for UVR-stimulated melanosome transfer, as this was also inhibited by MyoX knockdown and low-dose cytochalasin-B. Knockdown of keratinocyte MyoX protein, in its capacity as a phagocytosis effector, resulted in the inhibition of melanin uptake by keratinocytes. This indicates a central role for phagocytosis by keratinocytes of melanocyte filopodia. In summary, we propose a new model for the regulation of pigmentation in human skin cells under both constitutive and facultative (post-UVR) conditions, which we call the "filopodial-phagocytosis model." This model also provides a unique and highly accessible way to study lysosome-related organelle movement between mammalian cells.

Study of fibroblast gene expression in response to oxidative stress induced by hydrogen peroxide or UVA with skin aging.

The skin aging process, implying oxidative stress, is associated with specific gene expression. Ultraviolet A (UVA) and hydrogen peroxide (H(2)O(2)) both generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) making them relevant in the study of skin cell responses to oxidative stresses. To investigate transcript expression associated with chronological skin aging and its modulation by two oxidative stresses, cDNA micro-arrays, composed of a set of 81 expressed sequence tag (EST) clones, were used to probe the patterns of transcript expression in human fibroblasts of five young (< 21 years-old) and five older (> 50 years-old) healthy females at basal levels and 24 h after exposure to UVA (7 J/cm2) and H(2)O(2) (20 mM). At the basal state, 22% of total genes were up-regulated in the older group. Although both stresses led to the same cell mortality, H(2)O(2) induced a stronger modulation of gene expression than UVA, with 19.5% of transcripts up-regulated versus 4%. The aging process affected the response to H(2)O(2) and even though cells from old donors presented higher basal levels of transcripts they were not able to regulate them in response to the stress. Interestingly, UVA had a specific strong inhibitory effect on the expression of chemokine (C-C) motif ligand 2 (CCL2) transcript, suggesting a possible mechanism for its anti-inflammatory and immunoregulatory roles.

The silver locus product (Silv/gp100/Pmel17) as a new tool for the analysis of melanosome transfer in human melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture.

Melanosomes are melanocyte-specific lysosome-related organelles that are transferred to keratinocytes of the epidermis and anagen hair bulb. Transferred melanin forms supra-nuclear caps that protect epidermal keratinocytes against UV irradiation. The mechanism(s) responsible for melanosome transfer into keratinocytes and their subsequent intra-keratinocyte distribution has long remained one of the most enigmatic of heterotypic cell interactions. Although there have been many attempts to study this process, significant progress has been hindered by the absence of an adequate in vitro model. During our ongoing study of melanocyte-keratinocyte interactions in skin and hair follicle, we have developed a novel in vitro assay that exploits the specificity of Silv/Pmel17/gp100 expression for melanosome/melanin granules. Using matched cultures of keratinocytes and melanocytes isolated from normal healthy epidermis together with double immunofluorescence, we have determined that gp100 is a surprisingly useful tracker of transferred melanin. Moreover, transferred gp100 stained melanin granules emit a bright fluorescence signal, facilitating ready quantification of melanin transfer levels between melanocytes and keratinocytes. This quantitative approach was validated using known inducers and inhibitors of the melanocyte phenotype. This assay further confirmed that cytophagocytosis of melanocyte components (e.g. dendrite tips) by keratinocytes is one route for melanin incorporation into keratinocytes. Lastly, a role for the recently proposed filopodium as a direct conduit for melanin transfer was substantiated using this novel approach. In conclusion, this assay promises to significantly aid our investigations of the molecular basis of melanosome transfer and offers a new tool for the clinical evaluation of melanocyte modulators.

The use of antisense strategy to modulate human melanogenesis.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES: Skin without significant dyschromia is an aesthetic goal of people worldwide. Current options for lightening skin could have significant drawbacks. The antisense strategy may be a viable alternative. The reactions in melanogenesis are catalyzed mainly by tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. Activation of tyrosinase is associated with phosphorylation by protein kinase C-betaI (PKC-betaI) and formation of a complex between phosphorylated tyrosinase and TRP-1. The aim of this study was to use 2 antisense oligonucleotides to modulate the synthesis of the tyrosinase/TRP-1 complex, PKC-beta, or both by interacting with the targeted mRNA, thus whitening skin by interfering with melanogenesis at the translational level. METHODS/STUDY DESIGN: In the in vitro study, the effect of the antisense oligonucleotides was evaluated by measuring the rate at which dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) oxidase transforms L-DOPA to DOPAchrome in the pathway for melanin biosynthesis. A reduction in the reaction rate compared to the controls corresponded to a decrease in the enzyme activity and, consequently, to a reduction of the formation of melanin pigments. To evaluate the in vivo lightening effect of the antisense oligonucleotides, 30 Asian women volunteers with pigmented spots on both hands applied the test product twice daily for 8 weeks. The test product was applied to 2 marked-off areas of the hand: a pigmented spot (to evaluate the effect of the test product on the color of the spot) and a nonpigmented spot area (to evaluate the effect of the test product on normal skin pigmentation). The lightening effect was evaluated by comparing chromametric and mexametric parameters before treatment, after 4 weeks, and after 8 weeks. RESULTS: In vitro DOPA-oxidase activity was inhibited by 13% in melanocytes treated with the antisense sequence for PKC-BI alone, by 16% with the antisense sequence for TRP-1 alone, and by 36% with the association of 2 sequences. The inhibiting effect with both sequences required the specific sequences with nonreversed polarities. In vivo clinical results showed statistically significant whitening in both pigmented spots and nonpigmented spots when the test product was applied twice daily for 8 weeks by up to 30 Asian women. CONCLUSIONS: The association of TRP-1 and PKC-betaI antisense molecules significantly increased the inhibition of tyrosinase activity on human melanocytes. Antisense oligonucleotides are a new generation of active cosmetic ingredients that offer unprecedented specificity, biological stability, and safety in lightening skin. This is the first report of positive results in a cosmetic based on the use of these new active agents.

In vivo skin antioxidant effect of a new combination based on a specific Vitis vinifera shoot extract and a biotechnological extract.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES: Ultraviolet (UV) light produces reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin, which accelerate aging by damaging DNA, proteins, lipids, and other cellular constituents. The aims of this study were to 1) evaluate the antioxidant properties of a Vitis vinifera shoot extract on cultured normal human keratinocytes, 2) compare the in vivo antioxidant of this extract in combination with a biotechnological extract (Ronacare Hydroine), and 3) evaluate the efficacy on photoaging skin of a serum based on a combination (Vitis vinifera shoot extract in hydroglycolic solution, or Sarmentine, and Ronacare Hydroine) after a 4-week application, and to quantify the additional improvement given by applying a cream with the serum. METHODS/STUDY DESIGN: An in vitro study was conducted to evaluate the antioxidant properties of Vitis vinifera shoot extract added to cultured normal human keratinocytes. A fluorescent probe was used to quantify cytoplasmic endogenous species formed in response to oxidative stress induced by H2O2. The antioxidant activity of Vitis vinifera shoot extract was compared to that of a solvent control and 2 positive controls, vitamin E and vitamin C. In the first in vivo study, 2 test products were included in a comparative, randomized, single-blind trial in which 27 subjects acted as their own (untreated) controls. Products were applied 4 times to randomized areas of the inner surface of the forearm for one day. The following day, treated and untreated (control) areas of stratum corneum were sampled for fluorimetric analysis. A decrease in fluorescence compared with untreated control reflected a decrease in the level of ROS, in which case the product had a scavenging effect. The 2 products contained a combination of Sarmentine and Ronacare Hydroine, whose antioxidant properties were under investigation. Other products were known antioxidants. In the second in vivo study, 60 female subjects applied either serum or serum plus cream twice daily for 28 days for clinical evaluation. Overall improvement was rated on a quartile scale (0%-25%, 26%-50%, 51%-75%, 76%-100%) and changes in firmness, radiant glow, evenness, smoothness, wrinkles, fine lines, hydration, texture, and softness were rated on a negative to positive scale (-5=worse to +5=greatly improved). RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS: Vitis vinifera shoot extract appears to have significantly stronger in vitro antioxidant capacity than vitamin C or vitamin E. In the same vehicle (placebo emulsion), ascorbic acid (0.5%), Sarmentine (1%), and the Sarmentine (1%) plus Ronacare Hydroine (1%) combination had a significant in vivo antioxidant effect versus a nontreated area. The combination Sarmentine (1%) plus Ronacare Hydroine (1%) showed a higher efficacy than Sarmentine alone. The dermatologic evaluation showed that a 4-week twice-daily application of a serum containing the combination improved the main clinical signs of photoaged skin. The addition of the cream with the serum appears to enhance the serum-induced improvement of most of the skin characteristics.

Modulation of gene expression as a new skin anti-aging strategy.

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES: [corrected] The signs of aging may originate from natural processes or from exposure to the sun, wind, or other environmental factors. To evaluate the anti-aging effects of potential agents researchers must first identify and be able to quantify epidermal markers that change with aging. This paper summarizes the results of studies conducted to evaluate the transcriptional effects of an Aframomum angustifolium seed extract and Malva Sylvestris extract, and the antiaging efficacy of a skin care product containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract. METHODS: The transcriptional effect of an Aframomum angustifolium seed extract on normal human keratinocytes (NHKs) and normal human fibroblasts (NHF) was evaluated in vitro with the use of a low-density DNA array technology. The Malva Sylvestris extract was studied with a commercial DNA macroarray and by a real-time quantitative reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction. The in vitro anti-aging activities of the Malva sylvestris extract were compared with those of all-trans retinoic acid (RA), a well-established topical therapy for photodamage and wrinkles. The genes studied were known to be modified by RA. The anti-aging efficacy of a facial skin care product containing Aframomum angustifolium seed extract was evaluated in a single-center study using image processing analysis and in a 2-center study by evaluation of the photographs by the investigator, independent evaluators, and subjects. RESULTS: In general, the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract strongly modified the gene expression profiles of NHKs and weakly modified the gene expression profiles of NHFs. After incubation with Aframomum angustifolium seed extract, the expressions of 3 antioxidant genes (metallothionein 1, metallothionein 2, and thioredoxin) were increased in NHKs, while expressions of 1 antioxidant gene (glutathione peroxidase) was increased in NHFs. Concerning the Malva sylvestris extract, a cDNA macro-array technology experiment with the reconstructed human epidermis model showed that some genes modulated by treatment with the Malva sylvestris extract are also regulated by RA treatment indicating a similar activity at the mRNA level. In the single-center study, a facial skin care product containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract significantly improved the homogeneity of the skin. The areas of the detected objects (skin imperfections) decreased significantly on each studied area of the face and the variance decreased significantly over the entire face. In the 2-center study, 28% percent of the subjects reported a greater than 50% overall global improvement in their skin by the end of the study compared to 11% of the subjects after 4 weeks of treatment. Seventy-six percent of subjects said they would purchase the cream. CONCLUSIONS: The authors developed a low-density DNA chip method that permitted the study of the transcriptional effect of Malva Sylvestris extract and of Aframomum angustrifolium seed extract. The gene expression profiles obtained demonstrate the anti-aging properties of these compounds. An in vivo single-center study, performed and analyzed with an assay based on image processing analysis, demonstrated the antiwrinkle activity of a formulation containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract. The data obtained in the 2-center study suggests that the cosmeceutical containing Aframomum angustifolium seed extract produces a global rejuvenation effect in terms of redness, pigmentation, and fine lines similar to that noted utilizing an intense pulse light source.

Transcriptional effect of an Aframomum angustifolium seed extract on human cutaneous cells using low-density DNA chips.

BACKGROUND: Studying photoexposed and photoprotected skin biopsies from young and aged women, it has been found that a specific zone, composed of the basal layers of the epidermis, the dermal epidermal junction, and the superficial dermis, is major target of aging and reactive oxygen species. We showed that this zone is characterized by significant variations at a transcriptional and/or protein levels. AIMS: Using low-density DNA chip technology, we evaluated the effect of a natural mixture of Aframomum angustifolium seed extract containing labdane diterpenoids on these aging markers. METHODS: Expression profiles of normal human fibroblasts (NHF) were studied using a customized cDNA macroarray system containing genes covering dermal structure, inflammatory responses, and oxidative stress defense mechanisms. For normal human keratinocyte (NHK) investigations, we chose OLISA technique, a sensitive and quantitative method developed by BioMérieux specifically designed to investigate cell death, proliferation, epidermal structure, differentiation, and oxidative stress defense response. RESULTS: We observed that this extract strongly modified gene expression profiles of treated NHK, but weakly for NHF. This extract regulated antioxidant defenses, dermal-epidermal junction components, and epidermal renewal-related genes. CONCLUSION: Using low-density DNA chip technology, we identified new potential actions of A. angustifolium seed extract on skin aging.

Skin ageing: clinical and histopathologic study of permanent and reducible wrinkles.

Wrinkles are modifications of the skin associated with cutaneous ageing and develop preferentially on sun-exposed skin. The aim of the study was to analyse the clinicopathological features of wrinkles, among the different types of skin relief modifications. Despite its importance in dermato-cosmetology and skin ageing, few studies have been specifically devoted to wrinkles. In the present study, we analyzed the histological features of the pre-auricular wrinkle compared to retro-auricular skin, obtained from sixteen patients undergoing facial surgery; skin samples were immediately processed for routine histology and histochemical staining. Four types of skin depressions could be defined according to their depth: folds, permanent wrinkles, reducible wrinkles and skin micro-relief. Two different types of pre-auricular wrinkles were observed: (i) permanent wrinkles which were conserved after sampling and, (ii) reducible wrinkles which required in vivo staining to be visible at histology. Histological analysis of the epidermis and dermis of the skin forming the pre-auricular wrinkle revealed a normal skin morphology, identical to that of the skin immediately adjacent to the wrinkle. This was particularly striking for the reducible wrinkles which could not be individualized in the absence of in vivo staining. Both types of wrinkles comprised skin modifications observed in sun-exposed skin, however, in the upper dermis, permanent wrinkles showed a more pronounced accumulation of basophilic fibers, i.e. actinic elastosis, than reducible wrinkles did. These data suggest that the development of wrinkles could be secondary to actinic elastosis and to the disappearance of microfibrils and collagen fibers at the dermal-epidermal junction.